Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Vibration When Stop At A Red Light Or In Park
Nov 10, 2015
I haven an 08 F150 Lariat 5.4 with 148xxx km. I had the ticking in my 5.4 got a rebuild engine 9xxx km ago
A while back it started to vibrate when i stop at a red light or stop sign or in park. The rpms are at 620-660(wich is normal?) sometimes the vibration is there, sometimes not. I can feel it in the seat.
When you pop the hood, you can see the engine shutter just a bit every 4 seconds or so. Early in the morning before i go to work i start the truck to warm it up and its not there.
What i changed so far:
Air filter, fuel filter, sparkplugs, cops, battery(getting ready for winter)
Maf is nice and clean. Where else to look? Engine mounts?
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i have a 04 f150 2WD I've been noticing a slight vibration on initial takeoff, it only lasts for a couple of seconds then it goes away. I have the "non serviceable drive shaft" the u joints are staked into the yoke. there is some up and down play where the drive shaft goes into the transmission extension housing. Does that play is normal or what may be causing the vibration?
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In my 2008 F150 with 108,000 miles, I am having a vibration in the brake pedal. When I am stopping or at a dead stop. I first thought it might be the rotors needing to be turned, but the vibration seems to go away when I turn off the a/c.
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I have a 04 lariat f150. Problem is every time I stop at a light or stop sign I hear and feel a bump. Coming from the rear I guess . Had my truck aligned asked the alignment person about the situation he said ford just do that. True or false ...
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My 04 Yukon XL blows ice cold from both units while driving. However, at a stop light or in park the temperature of the air warms slightly. It will sometimes also blow hot. I checked the pressure using one of the units available at auto parts stores, and it was a low. I added refrigerant and the issue got a little better. I am thinking the fan clutch may be going bad? The truck doesn't overheat at all and in fact stays at mid-gauge throughout operation. Am I correct in pin-pointing the fan clutch?
Also, I know on the and up the TPS tells the pressure for each tire. Is there a way to get this same feature on my? Would it be possible through a software upgrade or replacing the entire DIC?
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My 2006 F150 was purchased by me in early 2009 with about 28,000 miles on it. It's an XLT crew cab 4X4 with the 5.4. Stock except for a leveling kit and an aftermarket head unit. It currently has about 59,000 miles and has been babied since I purchased it. About 3 years ago I started noting some issues:
A. Oil pressure dummy gauge is all over the place. Some times it will show no oil pressure. Other times it is all the way to the highest mark. Other times the needle has gone 180 degrees past where normal is and is actualy pointing straight down towards the floor.
B. Recently my alternator dummy gauge has started doing the same thing as my oil pressure gauge.
C. The backlight behind my odometer works intermittently, but mostly not at all.
D. My dome light will flicker when first turned on. It doesn't matter which door is opened or if the override switch it turned on. It takes several seconds to come on and will flicker like there is a poor connection somewhere, but stays on once its on.
E. Blower fan will occasionally stop blowing. Once the climate control switch is turned to off, then back to on it resumes working. This doesn't happen often, but does occasionally.
Fortunately, the truck has not left me stranded and I want to keep it that way. We are getting ready to sale my wife's Toyota and this will become her daily driver. I want to take care of any issues before she starts driving it. Are these all separate issues or is there one common issue which could be causing them all?
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I have a 2003 ford Explorer xlt v8 4.6 with a P2197 code.(02 sensor bank2 sensor1)...
I had code P2195 a few months ago and replaced that 02 sensor but just recently truck threw code P2197 and is now starting to idle surge when I stop at a light or just leave it running in park.
Replaced PCV valve and the hose that goes from pcv valve to IAC also replaced Fuel Filter. Cleaned IAC, Throttle Body and MAF did the old check for vacuum leaks with can of carb cleaner nothing found.
Pulled all coil packs off checked OHMs all read .6,coil boots looked to be in good shape going to replace spark plugs and 02 sensor.
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My F250 6.4, 3.73 Crew Cab Short bed vibrates when accelerating from a stop with my 5th wheel on. The 5th wheel weighs 12K. It is a medium to high frequency vibration that is felt throughout the entire truck. It continues through the shift into 2nd (TorqueShift Tranny). The harder you accelerate the more you feel it.
It does not occur if truck is unloaded and you accelerate at full throttle. Is this normal or should I get it looked at?
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I recently purchased an 04 Mountaineer with 95k miles on it, there's a slight shudder or vibration when i start out from a stop, turning, reversing all at a slow speed of under 10 mph, there is no other issues after i get up to cruising speed above 10mph.
I had the front and rear differential fluids changed, the transfer case fluid changed, and transmission fluid changed.
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2004 f150, Column shift Auto...
Today I stopped the truck put it into park and shut it off, everything worked fine, when I went to go start it back up it started but I cant put it out of park, I called FORD and they said put the key into the on position press the break as hard as you can and put it into neutral, we tried that and it didn't work, then they asked if we could move the truck because it could be struck or something still nothing... We tried the little cap and hold it to override the solenoid but it didn't work I dunno if I am doing it wrong so Is there any other things I can try or can you walk me through the override button here's what I did with that.
Opened the cap with a flat head
pushed it in
And started tried to shift
Is that what you do or what do you need to do??
Is there any way I could check the solenoid how do i take apart the column to do that?
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I have a 04 explorer limited awd and I get bad vibration when i come to a stop and turning left or right but it don't do it when I stop and drive straight, I feel it in the drive train, what's wrong?
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Just got an 04 f150 STX 4.6L Regular cab.
Drove fine for a few months (she's a little rough, but she does the trick).
The other day, I went out to go to work, truck would start and run, won't come out of park. Both turn signal indicators on the dash are illuminated, turn signals, flashers, radio and Climate controls do not work.
Currently driving with the emergency shifter release pulled out and zip tied open. First thought was interlock switch, but I'm not sure if that would affect everything else.
This happened once before, and I pulled all the taillights and checked all fuses, then it just seemed to work again after flipping the rheostat for the interior/dash lights. didn't work this time around.
Dash is all torn apart - where to start looking?
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My 2004 fx f150 with 177K miles is stalling (rpms bottom out) driving down the road and coming to a stop (coming to idle) and when trying to park. AND, its an intermittent problem.
Of course, not spitting any codes or CEL's. I've searched the site and there are multiple types of the same issues and solutions. Narrowed it down to either the dreaded vacuum line sandwiched against firewall and engine compartment, OR the cleaning of MAF, throttle body and IAC valve.
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So I went out to start my truck today after setting for 2 weeks and nothing. (2008 F150 XLT 4.6 31k miles) bought may 08. Anyway no lights or anything, battery was dead as a doorknob. I was just wondering if my battery was on its way out or if I have other problems. Oh and something else I couldn't get it out of park (column shift) until I hooked a battery charger to it. I was going to pull it out of the barn to jump it off but couldn't get out of park.
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For the last couple of months, I am not able to push the button on the gear selector to change out of park. Twice I have had to give up and drive the wife's car. When I come back it works once and then it starts again.
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An injector stuck open on my 05 5.4 and bent a rod. I had a new rod put in and all new revised Motorccraft injectors. This was about a month ago. Truck has ran great for the past 3 weeks until today I put it in park and it idles real rough, put it in gear and it smooth as butter again? (Once in a rare while it will continue to idle rough in gear for a few seconds but then clears up.) New motorcraft plugs were put in right before it bent the rod. The truck runs real strong other wise. I am about done with ford this pickup has been the biggest pile I've ever owned one thing after another and just when I think its fixed its some other stupid problem. I'll start by cleaning the maf and throttle body. Could it be a bad coil?
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I have a 1988 Buick PA Electra. Car idles rough and shaky at a stop light. When warmed up service engine light comes on for a few seconds then goes off. I've changed ignition coil box, wires, plugs, ignition module, fuel injectors, fuel filter. It seems like there may be a vacuum leak. Car has only 114,000 miles on it and I don't want to give up on her. Before this she was running smooth.
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2004 prius with 170k. Basically , his engine just doesn't shut off. battery is full. Engine keep running at the stop signs, in park. No engine light on.
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My 2008 FX4 won't disengage from park without depressing the manual release (white button). Center console shifter interlock. All I need to know is the part number for that solenoid. None of my local parts stores have a clue and I don't trust my local stealerships.
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When I started my '06 f150 today, the dash and park lights were flashing when the headlights were off. Relay 201 was making noise like a flasher, only faster. It did not work when I pulled the relay. The lights still flashed. I asked a mechanic friend and he said to D/C the Neg battery cable, wait a couple of minutes then reconnect. I did and it worked. I guess it reset something. Just wanted to pass this along.
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I have a 2006 f150 fx4 4x4. I drove it home from work yesterday and it ran and drove just fine. I got up this morning to go to work and turn the key but the engine won't fire. I turns over just fine. I turn the key to release the trans to put it in neutral to see if it would start like that and the shifter is stuck. I button in the front will not go in. I tried lifting the rear tires off the ground to see if I could free the trans.
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