Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Vibration When Towing A Trailer At 52 Mph MPH
Jun 22, 2012
I recently purchased a 2006, 4x4, low mileage and when towing a trailer the truck develops vibration right at 52 mph. Dealer has not found the problem.
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I took it to the dealer and they blamed the trailer. I told them that I have pulled two different trailers and it did it with both. Then he said that the trailer was not heavy enough to weigh down the springs. So now I not suppose to tow an empty trailer? Also my father in law has pulled the trailer with his Z71 with no shake and the other belongs to a neighbor with a 98 F150 with no shake. The vibration only starts above 45mph. Any clue as to what could be causing this?
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Today while towing a 10ft trailer with a golf cart my truck seemed kind of under powered.It has the 5.0 with 3.73 rear end.When I got to where I was going I looked under my truck and there were spots all over the rear end and axle and frame that looked like oil or transmission fluid. I cannot find any noticeable leaks. The air temp today was 100 and the transmission gauge stayed around 200.
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I bought my truck a couple months back for my custom furniture business. It's a '98 F-150, XLT, 5.4, supercab, 4x4, 3.73, 4R70W, 176k miles, with tow package. Today I picked up a single axle 6x12 trailer enclosed with metal mesh, weighs about 2000 lb. This was my first time towing with this truck and I figured it would run a little slow but this was ridiculous.
Highest speed I could get to was 64 going slightly downhill with OD locked off. Most of the smaller inclines and flat areas were max 55, then the worst was a two mile 7% incline at 35 mph. That last one just wouldn't downshift. This was all between 5000 and 6000 elevation in the Rockies. It's a little embarrassing getting passed by loaded semis
Am I doing anything wrong? Could it just be this specific trailer has issues?
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I have a 1997 F150. I installed a trailer towing kit round 7 pin. I followed the instruction and replaced three different fuses after installation. The passenger side turn signal will not work. I replaced the bulb. The brake light works and the bulb is on when the lights are on it just will not blink. When the turnsignal is on it clicks very quickly.
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2013 CCLB, 33,500 miles, stock emissions
While towing a 9000 pound trailer at interstate speeds (75 to 80 in Wyoming), when pulling a hill, the truck downshifts to 4th gear, boost is about 18psi, eng and transmission temps in the 230F range, EGTs around 500C or 935F. RPM increases normally to 3000 then the turbo gets very loud and boost drops to about 10psi. The truck shifts to 5th gear, noise decreases but is still present, shifts to 6th and noise goes to normal after a couple seconds and boost builds normally.
This just started today. I have about 8000 miles towing this trailer and never had this before. I have about 350 miles until I'm home so I'm headed back out. Will play around with manual mode and see what it does. I also took a video of the gauges while this happens. Audio is difficult to discern. I will try to get better audio and post when I get home.
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Is there a recommended suspension setting when towing a trailer or caravan or is it automatic?, I seem to recall that the A8 has automatic settings when a trailer is attached! If not what are the advantages between the settings as far as comfort and wear and tear are concerned.:
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I am thinking about getting a cat back setup on my truck, 2004 SCREW 5.4l 101XXX miles, I drie 65 miles roundtrip to work and have heard of the low in cab noise of the MBRP single out kits. My question is, who has an exhaust and tows with the overdrive off? How is the noise? My wife and I take our camper of a few ling trips a year, and I really dont want to listen to a loud exhaust for 10 hours when I am running down the hwy at 3000 rpm. I would really like to hear fro people running the MBRP setup, should I leave it stock? or how is the noise level.
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My 99 f250 ran hot while towing my travel trailer when the fan clutch gave up. ever since iv been noticing coolant loss and pressure in the day tank.ive changed the water pump,radiator. day tank and cap plus the thermostat.
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I have a 2006 f250 superduty crew cab longbed with the v10 gas motor. it has 201000 miles on it and towed great up until last month. I was towing a 5000lb trailer down the interstate at around 68mph,suddenly it was like the drive train disengaged and the motor had nothing left, check engine light on but no overheat condition or lack of oil pressure. we put a new fuel filter and pump on and maf, took trailer out again and same problem, pulled to the side and turned off, immediately restarted and ran fine. It has a cat not cleaning code in it now!
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When towing the brake lights on the trailer do not work? I trouble shooted it back to the Toureg? Factory Hitch and Light plug. 2006 Toureg V8.
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what is the towing capacity for my truck. 2007 F-150 4X2, V-8, 4.6L engine Supercab.
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I have a 2004 f150 fx4. My running lights on my trailer will not come on. Brake lights work, turn signals work, back up lights work. Had my boat mechanic check the trailer and that showed that the lights work fine. So I started checking fuses on the truck. Fuses all looked good. Then I went into the Auxiliary Relay Box in the engine compartment on the left fender. In the spot marked Trailer Tow Park Lamps (R201), theres no relay. R202 is for the Fog lamps, same relay. I pulled the Fog Lamp relay out and went to put in R201 for Trailer lamps, but there's no contacts in the R201 slots. The relay goes in with ease and just falls out. No contacts. Whats going on?
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I have a 2007 f-150 fx4 supercab with the 5.4, it has about 37,500 miles on it. Yesterday I hooked up my trailer with no more than 800lbs of lawn mowers and as soon as I was on my way I heard a terrible rattling noise coming from the truck or the trailer. I unhooked the trailer and drove up and down the driveway and heard no noise, hooked the trailer back up and right away the rattle came back. At this point I hooked up the trailer to my dad's truck hoping it was the trailer and I drove it around the neighborhood hoping to hear the noise. No noise. So I hooked back up to my truck to drive home and the noise came right back and was even worse.
The noise was a rattling noise which I would say sounded like bb's rattling around in something, which had/has my thinking catalytic converter but no check engine light or anything has popped up. Also the noise doesn't happen unless the truck is hooked up to my little trailer with weight that I consider insignificant. So my question is could it be the catalytic converter and the the light load causes it and it will eventually occur all the time, or could it be something else that I'm not considering. I'm going to try to get it into a local mechanic but with it being the end of the month he's probably swamped with inspections. I don't want to drive it until I know what it is because I don't want to do damage to the truck.
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Over the past year, I have had an issue with the front end shaking on my F150.
I have a 5 x 10 trailer. Weight capacity is roughly 2200 pounds. I hook up my trailer empty and head down the road. When I hit about 55 mph and above, the front end starts bouncing/shaking/vibrating.
Now I put a load on the trailer. Get going down the road. Hit those same speeds - no shaking/bouncing/vibrating. I have had a mechanic ride with me to check it out. First place to start, he told me, jack it up and see if anything is loose. I have not done that yet.
He has the same opinion as I do. This makes no sense. No load, shakes. Load, no shakes. You would think it would be opposite.
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2007 F-150 4x4 reg cab
Trying to get my trailer plug to work. Don't have a owners manual. Looked in fuse box, fuses 104 , 114 , 107 and 118 are missing?
Need to know what they are? Also look for fuse numbers that have anything to do with trailer plug.
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After returning from about a 5 hr roadtrip, I backed my snowmobile trailer up my steep driveway in 4wd and the truck did not want to move after that. The truck is an '05 SCREW 4X4 5.4L with about 110,000 miles on it. Trailer is probably around 1,000 lbs with the snowmobile on it.
The driveway is steep and short. That combined with the 90 degree turn to get in and some uneven terrain and part the path onto slippery frozen grass makes for a bit of a rodeo trip backwards up the driveway with a trailer.
Anyway, after getting the trailer up into it's place, I unhooked it, switched back to 2wd, disengaged the parking brake, and put it into drive. The truck didn't roll which was weird as it's now in drive pointed down hill. With about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle, it crept forward. Again, this is down hill. I got out walked around the truck (make sure I didn't forget to unhook anything etc) and tried again. Same thing.
Once I made it to the fairly level street, the truck would still only move, barely, with about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle. Now it was like some of the wheels were free but at least one had to break traction with the pavement to allow the truck to move forward. So with constant pressure on the accelerator it would chirp one or more of the wheels a bit at a time as it crept forward. Acted like it was in some sort of imaginary tug of war. After about 40' of driving it worked itself out. I've driven about 10 miles since and seems just fine.
I'm concerned because I plan to do this frequently with this trailer and in the summer frequently with a boat weighing about 3,500 lbs although shouldn't need 4wd in the summer.
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I have a 07 with the 5.4 engine and it has started to jerk or miss sometimes when I'm pulling my trailer. I'm thinking about changing the plugs, but the dealership is telling me they will break off in the head.
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My truck trailer connection has no power to the + pin, called the Trailer Tow Battery Charge. I traced back to the fuses and relays and discovered the relay missing. Unbelievably Ford is having a hard time with this relay. They don't seem to be sure which one it is. My owner's manual says it is a Full ISO relay. But Ford doesn't like that description.
What can I use there? Is there any after market relay available that would fit. Napa said they don't have anything listed, and O'Reilly and Autozone look at me with a stupid expression. I also need one for the starter relay. Mine was replaced with a anti theft device that has a remote control. I want that removed so I need the realy.
All the relays appear to be the same. I plugged in the blower motor relay in the trailer tow charge position and got power to the + pin. But I need the blower motor. The Ford guy said that it might be the right one, but he couldn't be certain and if I plug it in and it doesn't work it's my loss.
This is for the 2006 F-150, 4.6l truck.
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My trailers lights aren't working at all- so frustrated right now!! I've checked all the fuses and those are good, I've got no power back to the 7 pin connector...
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I have a 2103 F150(5500 miles) and a 2013 Ranger Z522 bass boat( 23'-4800 lbs 3000 miles). I get that ole strange vibration between 60 and 65 when towing) My tire dealer balanced all 8 wheels for me. I tried to get my truck to do it by itself but did not notice. It does not do it all the time. I'm going to say about 1/2 the time it does it and then it will not. It only does it at that speed range which to me at one time was a wheel balance problem.
When it does it i can see the head of my trolling motor on my boat vibrate with it. I did try to give the truck a little power to see if it effects it. It did not. I did this because back in the 80's i had a truck that the drive shaft was a little out of balance. Power to the drive chain would effect it enough that you could notice. I've tried to get the truck to do it by itself but can't.
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