In my 2008 F150 with 108,000 miles, I am having a vibration in the brake pedal. When I am stopping or at a dead stop. I first thought it might be the rotors needing to be turned, but the vibration seems to go away when I turn off the a/c.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2008 Pruis that acts like it has a plugged heater core but I wonder if there is more to it. I thought it had air in the system so I drew the cooling system down with vacuum and was able to get another half quart of coolant in it with a radkit plus vacuum coolant filling tool but it did not change anything. At idle there is no heat until you go up a hill at highway speeds when the heat starts to flow. As soon as the engine slows down or shuts off, there is no heat again. I was going to backflush the heater core but after I noticed all the valves and pumps in the cooling system, I stopped because I wondered if there could be a problem with any of those mechanical parts in the heating system. I don't think that there is still air in the system because the engine temperature is good and the coolant level is full when you remove the radiator cap. With the engine idling, all the hoses in the front of the engine are hot including to the heater storage tank. If you touch the aluminum pipes going into and out of the heater core, one is hot and the other is cold. Should my next step be to back flush the heater core?
View 18 RepliesI bought a new 2012 Elantra in March. Every so often I get a strange vibration through the brake pedal when I'm at a complete stop (red light/stop sign). It happens intermittently and I can't narrow down any exact cause. It happens when the engine is cold, fully warmed up, A/C on, A/C off, only been driving for a few minutes or driving for a few hours. No system lights come on. I've taken the car to the dealer twice and discussed this with them. They've not hooked it up for any diagnostics as yet. I don't think it's a vacuum line, engine or transmission issue because it is intermittent. I also don't think it's a defective engine/transmission mount. Could it possibly be the ABS module?
View 7 Replies2011 Corolla LE. Recently I upgraded the air intake, look at the picture
Shortly after that both me and my wife noticed that the brake pedal vibrates while car is In stop on lights. The vibration is only on the pedal and if you press it hard you suppress it. But when you feet is pressing light in the air it's very noticeable.
She also thinks that during above scenario RPMs go from about 1000k to 900 so are dropping. To be honest I did not notice that and not sure if this is normal or not. Other than that the car runs great and sounds much nicer bit loud but I like it.
So what I might have thought to be a transmission lag may be actually a dead zone in the pedal. When pressing the pedal from dead stop nothing happens until you press the pedal down further. Any way to reduce that or eliminate?
I'm referring to NA 2.5L engine with auto trans.
04 F-150 2WD 5.4L AUTO Extended cab
I had my tranny rebuilt under warranty at about 70K and I'm now at 167K. When it was rebuilt (by Ford) it still had a slip feel when I picked it up. Rode the mechanic around the yard and he felt it. Dead stop and take off while turning. Like from a stop sign. He took it back and found a sensor/module/something that was the culprit. Seems I remember they found it with a computer? Is there a computer/reader that will diagnose a tranny?
As I said when I take off from a dead stop I can feel a clunk or a bump that feels like it is coming from the rear wheels. I can feel it more than I can hear it, although I can hear it a little. It is difficult to describe this. It is only for a second and kinda feels like the rear wheels have no traction then it bumps and takes off. If I ease into the accelerator I can avoid it, but I don't have to hit it real hard at all to get it to do it. I am sure it is not u-joints as I put a brand new drive shaft from driveshaft specialist on in the spring.
View 3 RepliesBought an 05 FX4 SuperCab in May - been in shop twice for a "clunking" sound when accelerating from a dead stop. Dealer says it's "operating as intended" and that no damage was being if I continue to drive. I thought it was a rear problem with the limited slip. Dealer says it's the tranny and that Ford is looking into the problem (apparently quite a few are coming back). She runs smooth and shifts fine once she gets going. Just starting from a complete stop feels painfully wrong.
View 14 RepliesMy 06 FX4 has 106k it started acting up shifting last week and its driving me crazy not knowing what part to change. Sometimes when I take off slowly from a dead stop it shifts really quickly into o/d by the time I am at 15-20mph. Doesn't matter far as hot/cold but if i accelerate quickly it doesn't seem to do it. I have read it could be the Shift solenoid or TPS.
View 2 RepliesWhen I accelerate from a dead stop I have this squeaking that comes from the back of the truck that goes away after a few seconds. Then when I get up to about 50mph I have this really annoying vibration. Its not a real heavy vibration but it is there. I am thinking it could be the universal joints, am I way off here or what?
View 6 RepliesI just installed an AFE stage 2 on my 04 f150. I was driving down the freeway and I decided to step on it and it made a loud hum sound and it had a vibration I could feel through the pedal. It was so loud and aggressive I pulled off the road to see if something came apart. Everything looked ok and all my bolts and such are tight. Is this normal?
View 13 RepliesI haven an 08 F150 Lariat 5.4 with 148xxx km. I had the ticking in my 5.4 got a rebuild engine 9xxx km ago
A while back it started to vibrate when i stop at a red light or stop sign or in park. The rpms are at 620-660(wich is normal?) sometimes the vibration is there, sometimes not. I can feel it in the seat.
When you pop the hood, you can see the engine shutter just a bit every 4 seconds or so. Early in the morning before i go to work i start the truck to warm it up and its not there.
What i changed so far:
Air filter, fuel filter, sparkplugs, cops, battery(getting ready for winter)
Maf is nice and clean. Where else to look? Engine mounts?
When coming to a hard stop and downshifting using engine braking, is it normal to have the brake pedal feel like it loses pressure to where the brake pedal pushes down further towards the floor for a split second? What causes that to occur?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2005 F-250 4x4 and recently i noticed a grinding noise while driving and then when I come to a stop I hear a clunk and the grinding stops. It sounded like it came from the driver side wheel so I changed the wheel bearing assembly. About 3 days later it started again. Now it sounds like it's coming from both sides. I am at a loss. The hubs are unlocked. It's hard to describe the sound but to me it sounds like 2 gears with a large chain rotating on them. I hope that made sense. The clunk can be felt in the brake pedal.
View 2 RepliesMy 2004 F 150 the rubber piece that goes on my brake pedal keeps on falling off after I put it back on looked it over today and did notice it does have a good size tear in one of the corners....Can I get a replacement one of these? all I need is the rubber that goes on the pedal....Would I have to go to the dealer for it?
View 3 RepliesWhat would cause the brakes on my wife's truck to be stiff and not hold?
View 14 Repliesi have a 04 f150 2WD I've been noticing a slight vibration on initial takeoff, it only lasts for a couple of seconds then it goes away. I have the "non serviceable drive shaft" the u joints are staked into the yoke. there is some up and down play where the drive shaft goes into the transmission extension housing. Does that play is normal or what may be causing the vibration?
View 3 RepliesI am looking at purchasing a used 05 gx. It has about 109k on the odometer, a lengthy carfax report showing that the maintenance has been kept up since day 1. It's a one owner and is very clean. While borrowing the car for an afternoon I noticed two issues that is causing hesitation.
While stopped at a light I kept getting feedback in the brake pedal, like a light thump in a pattern of two at a time.
The second, and this might be normal? While examining the outside of the car with the engine running I heard a sound at the rear of the car by the rear wheel. It sounds similar to a compressor, maybe for the air ride suspension. I checked the height control in the car and it was set to "N".
Had a lift done (Rough Country, after reading through these forums) on my 04 F150 Newer Body Style 4x4. Now, sometimes the pedal gets harder to push on until it won't go down at all and the brakes (only the front) start dragging. It goes away after awhile (my rotors are shot and I'm going to have to replace them after I figure out what is going on) but always comes back. The brake lines have been bled and I'm having a shop bleed them again tomorrow (that's what they said the issue was) just in case.
View 11 RepliesI was going down the highway at 70mph and came up to a toll booth when the brake pedal went to the floor and the car wouldn't stop. I hit the pedal hard and the car stopped in a very jerky manner as if the abs was initiated. I looked at the dash and the ABS, (!), and brake lights were illuminated. I turned the car off and then on again and the lights were off and the brakes worked normally again.
The Toyota dealer in CT said the weak battery was causing an under-voltage at the stroke sensor and replaced the battery. They told me if I lost my brakes again (!) I should bring it back for a new stroke sensor. In hindsight, I should have just told them to go ahead and replace the sensor. Two days later, driving down Florida route 301 in the rain, a stoplight went from yellow to red in about 3 seconds so I hit the pedal hard. The back brakes immediately locked up, the front wheels kept rolling, the car swerved and slid through the red light intersection sideways.
I counter steered and slid between two cars at the other red light, on the wrong side of the road as I straightened out. The car swerved and slid sideways again in the other direction and then spun around so I finally wound up in the correct lane, and I drove off like nothing happened. I was doing maybe 35-40 at the time and it's a miracle no one got hurt. Again I look down and see the lights illuminated. I cycled the power switch as before, and again the problem went away.
About an hour later the problem came back and this time no amount of power cycling will clear it. Basically what I'm understanding now is that it's the regenerative side that doesn't work with the bad sensor. The hydraulics kick in at around the last 10% of the pedal so the car will still stop, but I have to floor the pedal and that makes the car think your trying to lock up the wheels so it initiates the ABS system which makes stopping jerky and unpredictable. BEWARE the stoke sensor!!! What a dangerous design!! The dealer has the car now...
I am pretty sure my pedal is going.. Today and last month it would just die from a dead stop push the pedal and no go, but truck idling fine. I cleaned it off a few weeks ago but now its back. push pedal in and out a few times and all is fine for a few weeks. Truck runs fine other than that. Does not throw a code, just trans light comes on because no movement I think, then it goes off as soon as i start to move along. I have a adjustable pedal assembly 2c3z-9f836-de 508.45 at white bear lake ford.
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