As stated I have a 2008 F150XLT 5.4 V8. Recently it has started making a knocking noise and very rough idle when warm. It only does it when the truck has been driven slowly or typically when going through a drive through. It sounds like a rod knock but putting it in neutral and revving the engine makes it go away for a while.
View 8 RepliesEngine seems to knock real bad after engine gets hot like its out of time if unplug the vvt solenoids it runs great something is telling them to adjust timing to much.
When it came in it had a cam code and i found cam sensor was broken it had new installed found part of other in engine. Phaser was damaged replaced it. still did it after.
Then I pulled front of engine apart found chain tensioner leaking oil around gasket and then we decided to re time chain. If still doing it.Will let know after air mass meter.
PS no codes at this time
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2006 Ford F150 4x4 - Ford
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I have a 2007 150 5.4 31,000 miles that started knocking and pinging at low rpm, fine above 1000 rpm but i am detecting ackward exhaust tone, after reading several posts on this site about similar complaints i replaced the cam sensors but prob persists.
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 2007 F150 XLT with a Triton 5.4 with 80,000 miles on it. My problem is this, the engine seems to run ok ( a bit rough) until it gets up to running temp and I have driven about 10- 20 miles then most of the time, it starts to act up.
When I am driving it is fine, but when I slow down and come to an idle about 500rpms, it sometimes runs very rough, sounds like a diesel and shakes violently. It feels like it is doing damage. Sometimes it stalls. If I rev it back up immediately it will smooth out.
In speaking to some friends they've suggested things from plugged oil channels, (affecting the cam phasers? All the way to it needing new chains, phasers and guides. I don't want to spend a ton of money doing an improper service repair only to have the issue show up later . But there seems to be a lot of different answers to the same problem. Is the dealer going to be able to diagnose something like this fairly well? Or should I try to narrow it down a bit first?
I am the original owner of a 2006 Prius with 265k miles. I use Mobil 5-30 synthetic oil and I drive a steep hill every day and the engine knocks in the summer afternoons when I use cheap 87 Octane gasoline from Safeway or Costco. If I use better 87 octane gasoline (Chevron, Shell) generally there is less knocking. Also during the winter months no knocking even with cheap gasoline.
During summer I can sometimes make the knocking go away by accelerating or decelerating. The knocking is intermittent and generally occurs only during the steepest parts of the commute. The engine might knock for 30 seconds to 60 seconds before its goes away as I try to change the engine RPM.
Unfortunately I am burning some oil at a rate of approximately half a quart every 5k miles. Generally I watch the oil level, but there have been cases where the oil level has fallen below the lowest mark on the dip stick so I suspect I have some carbon build up.
I've read posts where others have used additives like gumout regane and I've read posts that say not to use additives.
I purchased an '08 F150 about 6 months ago, and have a problem that two mechanics haven't been able to solve. The truck has a 5.4L engine. Unfortunately, I bought from an auction and the 30 day warranty expired before I realized the problem.
After a longer drive (30 minutes to work) the engine is warm, and I always back into my parking spot or driveway. In low gear, it begins to idle very rough and the engine shakes. If I leave it long enough, it will stall. Usually I pop it into neutral, give it some gas, and its fine. I just bought a camper trailer, so I'll need to use the lower gear when backing up.
So far, the engine has been flushed twice, the solenoid replaced and phaser replaced. The second mechanic has recommended I contact a dealer, but haven't had luck with them with my previous Explorer. What it could be? I will be getting the diagnostic paperwork this week.
I have a 2008 Ford F150 that ticks loudly at hot idle. Took it to the dealer and hear is what the service manager has said so far:
"So far we checked codes, all was ok. tested oil pressure and found it met the spec of 15 PSI, removed valve covers. Found the CVT solonoids are the newer style. Inspected the camshafts, cam phasers, rocker arms, cam chains. All check ok at this time. Not finding any true "root of concern" I'm trying to get approval for engine replacement in hopes that replacement is quieter. Approval is difficult without any true failure...still working on it though."
If this is not the cam phasers, what else could it possibly be?
Here is my engine noise: [URL] .....
I have a 2007 F150 with the 5.4 FFV. Early last summer my truck started acting like the harmonic balancer was going bad, when it was hot out my engine would shake at an idle. Then in October it threw a check engine light, wouldn't get over 20 mph and was shaking the entire truck. The codes said my timing was out so I replaced the timing chains, guides and tensioners, which were bad on the passenger side. When I started it back up it ran rough, and the check engine light came back on with a "bank A over-retarded" code.
So I went back in thinking I had put the chain on one tooth off. Got it back together and it ran the same way. After doing some soul searching on this website I determined the VCT Solenoid for the driver's side may be bad, and I went back in a third time and replaced the solenoid. Now it runs worse than it did the first time, it won't even idle and it is nearly impossible to start in the first place... This truck only has 103,000 miles and was running great before this...
I have a 2008 Ford F150 4.6L and its been broken down in our shop for quite some time now. It started acting funny when I could not get the truck to do over 80kmh. Slow acceleration, and a horrible shaking when it idled. Eventually it was undriveable since I could go above 50kmh anymore. From looking online we replaced the plugs and coils. We removed the intake to find the gaskets were shot so coolant was leaking into the spark plug tubes which could've been the cause of a misfire. Fixed that. Still the same. We replaced the egr valve and dpfe sensor because we keep getting the P0402 excessive egr flow code. Still no luck. My dad is a journeyman hes just not too familiar with newer trucks.
View 4 RepliesWhen the truck is idling it has a weird vibration and their is a hum that comes from the engine. It then clicks like my clutch fan disengages or engages and both go away. I have only noticed at stop signs and sitting in a parking lot. 2004 5.4L....
View 2 RepliesI just purchased my first F150, 4.6L V8, 55,600 Miles. It intermittently has a rough idle and only seems to be when the engine is hot. I've had engine and tranny mechanics look it. The spark plugs have been inspected and are within an acceptable range. The throttle body has been cleaned. There are no trouble codes of any kind. What I can check next?
View 13 RepliesMy 06 f150 5.4 3v has developed this miss in the last 1000 miles which is very annoying and fuel consuming. Its most noticeable at idle where the engine quivers and at highway rpms where it will start to vibrate when being slightly worked. I have already changed the cops and plugs, and there are no codes coming up.
View 6 RepliesIm trying to chase down an engine miss fire on a 2007 with the 5.4L. It only seems to miss under no-load conditions, such as at idle and on a downgrade while driving. Acceleration and under a load it runs fine. New Champion plugs were installed at 135,000 miles. The truck now has 150,000 miles and has only been miss firing for the last 1,000 miles or so. I pulled the connector off of the coils one at a time to try and figure out which cylinder/s were missing. I thought I found the problem ones and replaced two of the coils, but it ended up not fixing the issue. Ive tried spraying carb cleaner at and around the intake to check for leaks, but found none. I have a scanner, but the check engine light is not on, so its not much luck.
View 5 RepliesMy 04 F150 has started having a rough idle. While in park the engine will stall out with the A/C off. Also when in drive the truck will idle close to 1000rpm's. I had to the fuel filter cleaned and also the MAF sensor cleaned. Also did a vacuum check on it. Pulled the code and it's throwing a Lean Code. What else should I be looking for?
View 12 RepliesStill showing the same codes (per repairman) and still having the intermittent rough idle at low speeds when the engine is warm. It has been so intermittent that I could almost live with it.
So repair guys first replaces the VCT's and runs fine until warmed up and the problem reoccurs with the same codes. He replaces both cam phasers and tensioners today and still same problem and same codes which point to the VCT and cam phasers.
Truck has 80k, city driven, oil changed every 3k or so. Burns ethanol and still runs great at speeds over 10 mph even when this problem appears.
2004 F150 5.4 3v. I bought the truck with 102k on it, it now has 124k. In the morning, when the outside temp is between 30-50, the engine starts and runs fine. When I get to the first red light ( about 1 mile away) within seconds of the engine at idle, engine starts to run rough and CEL. Every time the code is p0351. If I let it sit in the driveway to full warm up... no problem. If I start the truck, shut it off and restart...no problem. It only happens at the cooler temps. I have changed plugs, used motorcraft, nickel antiseize, torqued, etc. Ford changed the coil, I have changed the coil, cleaned MAF. As soon as I cross the intersection, light stays on, rough running clears up, and runs like a champ for the rest of the day.
View 2 RepliesI posted a while back about my 04 5.4 having an issue at idle. I did all the normal things like replace coil, spark plug, etc etc. No change to the issue. It still acts as though it's misfiring on a cylinder and I get codes P0306 and P0316. Finally took it to ford and had a diagnostic check ran. Everything on the top end was in working order. The tech even put a known working coil on 6 and nothing changed. I was told that it's either an intake or valve issue on that cylinder. But no definite answer to problem.
Fast forward to yesterday. I got a wild hair at lunch and went out and started truck. Pulled injector plug off of 6. No change to the way it was running. I did the same for 5, 7, 8, 1, and 2. All of which made a big difference in the way it ran. It was obviously misfiring with no fuel to cylinder. This gave me the idea to swap 5 and 6 when I got home to see if the issue followed the injector from 6. I did NOT. I pulled the plug on 5 and got the obvious change in the way it ran. So there is definitely something going on at cylinder 6 that I cannot figure out.
PCM, bad intake, bad valve? I'm not rich so a trip to ford for repair is gonna have to wait. Truck seems to run fine when driving except for slight hesitation during acceleration.
I have a 2002 Crown Victoria LX. The engine runs great with the exception of a loud knocking sound sometimes when starting or stopping the engine. When starting, it's a single loud knock after the engine turns over. When stopping, it's anywhere from one to several as the engine motion comes to a stop. When it's several (probably 4 or 5) they are quick but it's apparent that the rate slows down slightly over time, as if it's a moving part inside the engine coming to a stop. It is worth noting that about one-third of the time when turning the car on or off, there is no noticeable knocking sound whatsoever. Maybe something is loose inside?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 f-150 street boss with 79000 mile, and it is shooting off going down the road, and the check engine light is flashing. The first time I started it back up and it would idle fine, but the throttle wouldn't do any thing. After setting about 15 min. I started it up and it ran good. I checked the codes and it had a p2104 Throttle actuator control system forced idle. It happened again with my wife. This time when I checked the codes it had the p2104 and a p2112 throttle actuator control system stuck closed code. What could be the problem, or a troubleshooting guide I could use to try and diagnose it.
View 6 RepliesThe other day I bought an sct tuner for my excursion and its been a little glitchy, likes to freeze up and lock out my ecu.
I was driving yesterday and today I try to turn it on and my engine knocks badly revs erratically and all gauges weren't working so i shut it off. I tried to start up again and it flashes the theft light and abs light. Won't crank won't do anything my whole engine is locked out.
So i tried reverting the ecu back to stock. I did this several times once it simply lost power and shut off at the end another time it said wrong vehicle and the final time it said completed.
Now when i try to start up it does the same thing and will not do anything but flash lights at me... When I downloaded the file it said select vehicle: 6.0 superduty. That was the only choice, and the guy at the store said that the truck tuner will work in my excursion I specifically asked if this works in the ex.
I really need my truck otherwise I will he paying hundreds in taxi fare. I tried calling the store and sct but both are closed on weekends.
2003 Jeep Liberty Sport, 156 K miles, Check engine light has been on for months now. First occurrence was when driving, and car started to knock as though I was shooting 50 cal machine guns. Stopped vehicle, shut off, and upon restart, engine ran smooth. Now, almost every time after engine has been running a while, and I am going on a down slope, the check engine light starts to blink, and engine starts to miss. Took to my mechanic, and so far, I have been told and have replaced, Fuel pump, Spark plugs, coils, and wires, cam sensor. Latest and most recent with promise that this has to be it, I replaced engine computer.
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