how hard is it to replace the U-joint at the differential side of the shaft on an 04 FX4? Any special tools needed? At low speed (5-10mph) sounds like someone tapping on the rear end with a ball peen hammer, I guess it is the u-joints.
View 2 RepliesWhat Spicer Part #s for the rear u-joints would be? I'm not nailing down the right one. I keep finding numerous ones, 1410, 1350, 5-160....
View 8 RepliesI have an 06 F150 2wd that needs both lower ball joints. I've done searches and everyone keeps talking about a big freaking hammer. Can't you just use a ball joint press kit to remove and reinstall these? If no I'm gonna find someone to put them in for me because Im scared of breaking the aluminum control arm. There was also some talk of using some sorta glue on the joints as well.
View 8 RepliesI'm working on a 2007 F150 V6 with a 4 speed automatic.. which seems to be a 4R70W. It has 36,xxx miles on it and the transmission tailshaft is cracked by the mount and leaking fluid.
The tailshaft can be replaced by itself without disassembling and removing the whole transmission right? The part number/Ford Engineering number on it is "RF-F3LP-7A040-AA" and it says 42A below that. Can I look for any tailshaft or just this number? F3 is a 1993 number isn't it? I don't know the length of it but it doesn't have a hole for a speedo cable.
I have a 73 F100 with a 9" rear end. I need to replace the drivers side axle shaft as the bearing retainer is starting to slide off and I'm not willing to take a chance a new bearing and retainer will do it again. They are 31 spline axles and have the ball bearings not the tapered rollers.
What year trucks can I find a replacement axle shaft? Any other thing I should be aware of in finding a replacement?
From what I've read, the procedure for removing and replacing the drive shaft involves pulling the upper ball joints and tie rod end from the steering knuckle--is it possible to put a floor jack below the lower arm (the load runs to the spring through the lower arm) and undo the lower ball joint to get the clearance required to remove the shaft?
View 9 RepliesFound some cracks in the outside of my driveshaft. 2002 Jetta 1.8T 5-Speed Manual.
Part number: 1J0 407 271 GJ
I'm guessing it's just rust/age. Honestly, I don't even know if this need to be replaced. CV boots are in perfect condition, now cracks or leaks whatsoever.
I recently bought a 1997 F150 4wd 5sp manual. While changing the fluids, I noticed that the front u joint on the rear drive shaft has a grease fitting. No matter how I rotate that shaft, I cannot access that fitting with my grease gun, even when fitted with a flexible rubber hose.
View 14 RepliesSo working on a 2005 F150 with a 5.4. Started off as a phaser replacement. Turn out the passenger side timing chain guide was badly damaged. Front timing chain cover came off and replaced the guide and phaser. Got everything back together and it ran rough. Pulled the front timing cover off and the passenger side was off a tooth.
Retimed that passenger side and also replaced the tensioner because the seal on the old tensioner wasn't the best. Now rotating the engine, i noticed the tensioner pushes then retracts. Seems like a vacuum is created pulling the plunger in, but not entirely sure. Only the passenger side does this, not the drivers side.
Worried about putting the front cover and valve covers on, buttoning everything together and having it skip another tooth because of slack in the chain. Any fix for it or reason why it does it?
Looking for a good DIY video on removing drivers side cv joint, my joint broke and I removed it however the inner joint inner spline is still in the trans, there is a c clip on the shaft of the new cv joint that I'm assuming is holding it in. I just don't know if pressure is all I need to pull it out.
View 2 RepliesMy Front Suspension NOW SHAKES; After Having the Prius Intermediate Shaft Replacement Recall done!!
I took my PRIUS to the dealer this past week and had the Prius Intermediate Shaft Replacement Recall done.
Working on a 2004 Ford F150 4.6L. No 4x4. Replaced both IWE front actuators. (Neither one would hold vacuum). Still no 4x4. I realize I have vacuum issues and may be excessive wear on gear teeth of the front wheel bearings. The issue that really bothers me is the front differential. Having placed the truck on jack stands and running in 4x4 should both front wheels be turning ? The right front wheel turns and the left front does not move. Is this normal or should I pull the front differential cover off ?
View 7 RepliesMy front differential is leaking. Are there any special Ford tools required to replace the seal? Or is it simply bolt (and fluid) removal, seal replacement, fill with new fluid. Any tips or heads-up on this?
View 2 RepliesI just replaced (or almost replaced) the bulb on the passenger side of my 2008 prius. It is a HID bulb. I got the old one out, the new one in and connected and verified it is working. Now trying to get the cover back on that provides the weather proofing and unless im wrong... the braided wire that connects to the back of the bulb is in the way. It looks like it has to go thru the opening that the cover is supposed to seal... Imagine a rope hanging over the edge of a bucket you are trying to put a cover on... Am i wrong here? did I miss something?
View 1 Replies2006 F150, SuperCrew with 5.4
I just replaced the firewall actuator valve for the hubs, and went to try out the 4 wheel drive. The hubs engage and lock to the axle shaft, the transfer case engages and locks to the front driveline, but the front differential isn't doing anything. Is there an actuator for the front or did something break inside?
I got a new to me truck. It's a 2004 F150 Lariat 4x4 with the 5.4L. It's got a whine that I believe is coming from the rear differential. I'm going to change the fluid. My axle code is 26 which I believe is 3.73 non-limited slip. My owners manual says to use 75w-90 but I've seen a lot of posts on here that say to use 75w-140. Which is right or better? Also, is my rear differential the 9.75"?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2007 ford f150 FX2 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip rear end. It has 68,000 miles and would like to change the rear differential oil. I have read and I know the oil it requires is 75w-140 plus the friction modifier. I would like to use mobile one. But was reading and the mobile one sites states that is already has friction modifiers. Is that ok to use on my truck? Using mobile one and not adding the extra modifiers?
Also some other brands say they have friction modifiers as well. Should I use mobile one and add extra friction modifier or just go with what it has already?
Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube 75W-140 LS contains special friction modifiers designed for limited slip-type differentials. In most applications, the addition of special LS (limited slip) additives is not required. For axles requiring the highest level of limited-slip performance, OEM specific LS additives can be added to this fluid.
2007 XLS Crew Cab 2wd. 60K miles When going through the 35 to 60 mile per hour range there is a vibration that seems to come from the drive shaft. Let off the gas and it goes away. After 60 mph it seems to be gone. I am thinking Trans support, motor support? One of the postings on this sight made me wonder about the transmission. By the way, I just bought this truck used and love it. Can I run flex fuel in the 4.6L engine?
View 1 RepliesLooking to change out my front differential cover tomorrow, cover is pitted, rusted, corroded, and leaking at the seals. While under there I want to inspect the vent for the axle and differential (and replace if it's clogged - which I believe is leading to the seal leaking). Looking for info about the vent tube location on the front axle? Thought I read somewhere it was on the cover itself, turns out that's a negative.
View 1 RepliesAlright so about a few weeks ago I started hearing what sounded like it was time for new brake pads. But the other day I turned the corner and my neighbor came up to me and said he heard my truck making a metal on metal type noise. So I said okay fml, took it to a local mechanic.
Called me today and said the brakes are fine but it's rear differential, he said they put the truck on the lift and used the stethoscope and heard a metal noise inside the rear differential and said that the fluid in there was very metallic.
I bought this truck about 7 months ago from the dealership. It has a total 90,000 miles on it. What does it look like this could cost me worst comes to worst?
I have a 2006 fx4. And I am about it change the rear differential fluid. i want to know if i have a a limited slip differential.
View 7 Replies