Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Truck Won't Roll After Backing Trailer Up Steep Driveway
Feb 6, 2012
After returning from about a 5 hr roadtrip, I backed my snowmobile trailer up my steep driveway in 4wd and the truck did not want to move after that. The truck is an '05 SCREW 4X4 5.4L with about 110,000 miles on it. Trailer is probably around 1,000 lbs with the snowmobile on it.
The driveway is steep and short. That combined with the 90 degree turn to get in and some uneven terrain and part the path onto slippery frozen grass makes for a bit of a rodeo trip backwards up the driveway with a trailer.
Anyway, after getting the trailer up into it's place, I unhooked it, switched back to 2wd, disengaged the parking brake, and put it into drive. The truck didn't roll which was weird as it's now in drive pointed down hill. With about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle, it crept forward. Again, this is down hill. I got out walked around the truck (make sure I didn't forget to unhook anything etc) and tried again. Same thing.
Once I made it to the fairly level street, the truck would still only move, barely, with about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle. Now it was like some of the wheels were free but at least one had to break traction with the pavement to allow the truck to move forward. So with constant pressure on the accelerator it would chirp one or more of the wheels a bit at a time as it crept forward. Acted like it was in some sort of imaginary tug of war. After about 40' of driving it worked itself out. I've driven about 10 miles since and seems just fine.
I'm concerned because I plan to do this frequently with this trailer and in the summer frequently with a boat weighing about 3,500 lbs although shouldn't need 4wd in the summer.
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Our 2008 Rav4 (4 cylinder) has on more than one occasion come up with a loud clunking sound when backing up our steep (~ 20% grade) driveway. It feels like it has popped out of gear or even into a forward gear. The first time it happened (a couple of months ago) it was taken directly to the dealer who found nothing. It happened again today - on two attempts to back up the driveway. If the phenomenon correlates with anything, it's higher air temperatures and after a longish (> 30 minute) drive. Any clues?
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I took it to the dealer and they blamed the trailer. I told them that I have pulled two different trailers and it did it with both. Then he said that the trailer was not heavy enough to weigh down the springs. So now I not suppose to tow an empty trailer? Also my father in law has pulled the trailer with his Z71 with no shake and the other belongs to a neighbor with a 98 F150 with no shake. The vibration only starts above 45mph. Any clue as to what could be causing this?
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My truck trailer connection has no power to the + pin, called the Trailer Tow Battery Charge. I traced back to the fuses and relays and discovered the relay missing. Unbelievably Ford is having a hard time with this relay. They don't seem to be sure which one it is. My owner's manual says it is a Full ISO relay. But Ford doesn't like that description.
What can I use there? Is there any after market relay available that would fit. Napa said they don't have anything listed, and O'Reilly and Autozone look at me with a stupid expression. I also need one for the starter relay. Mine was replaced with a anti theft device that has a remote control. I want that removed so I need the realy.
All the relays appear to be the same. I plugged in the blower motor relay in the trailer tow charge position and got power to the + pin. But I need the blower motor. The Ford guy said that it might be the right one, but he couldn't be certain and if I plug it in and it doesn't work it's my loss.
This is for the 2006 F-150, 4.6l truck.
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I have had literally no issues with my 2004 F250 Super Duty. Went out and started the truck like every other time for the past 13 years. Started backing out of the driveway and burped the throttle and it just quit??
I put back into park and it rolled over for about a minute and finally caught. When i put it back into gear i had zero throttle response. I have a NOx sensor fault code and and EGR fault code. I replaced the FICM 2 years ago.
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I have 2004 Super Duty with a noise in the front end when I hit bumps or backing out or entering a driveway with a lip. I don't feel anything in the steering wheel but I feel it on the floor board with my feet? Where to begin?
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When driving Prius v 2012, I've noticed that prius will roll back a bit when stopped on a steep slope. I think it is due to cvt transmission design.
For example Subaru have a "hill holder" button, I did not noticed anything like this on prius or is there one?
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I have a 2013 Prius-III. I have a steep driveway, about 250 years long. At the bottom of the driveway, just before entering the roadway, a few times the vehicle shifts into Neutral. At first I thought I was hitting the shifter or a bump was causing the shift, but since it now has happened multiple times, I know it is not my touching the shifter, but I am not sure what else could cause this behavior.
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I thought I noticed this a few days back but figured it was my imagination... However, I confirmed it tonight... When coming home and going down my rather steep driveway, I noticed the third brake light blinking. It actually seemed rather consistent... I backed up the driveway, went back out for a minute and didn't notice anything, but then noticed it once again when going down our hill.
First and foremost, would this be covered under the say bumper-to-bumper warranty? I'm assuming it's a fault in the brake light switch. It seems to not be quite as bad the harder I brake.
Second, I seem to recall some kinds of brake switch issues... I know I've also had some TCS light issues (TCS OFF lit just today) but I always figured it was from my rather aggressive driving habits. Could this be related to a faulty switch?
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Had the 2003 Jetta in for inspection, and he said the rear brake caliper was gone. SO he replaced it.
Now in the morning when I leave for work, as I go up my steep driveway, the brake warning light comes on and beeps at me. Then it stops.
On the way home, as I come up the steep road to my driveway, the warning light comes on and beeps at me!
All other times and all other driving, it's fine.
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I have a 2008 Ford Escape, and today I noticed that while backing out of my driveway (downhill) as I pressed the brake pedal it made this grinding noise, but when I got out of the car I looked through the tires and the rotors and pads were fine. I did not get a chance to check the inner side of the rotor or pad yet. What else could this noise be if it's not the brakes? It only makes this noise when I press the brake pedal which is why I thought it was the brakes.
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I only get the fault when backing up. Driving forward it's never a problem. The truck is a 2015 F250. We are pulling a 33' travel trailer. Both are new. I was not sure if the fault when backing was something that happens or if it might be indicative of a problem. The manual says it's not an indicator of a problem. Rather, there might be an issue. Again, it works fine when traveling in a forward motion.
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So I finally towed our new to us travel trailer home tonight and the spot I created at my house to park it in required a lot of backing to get it shoe-horned in its place. As I was almost finished I smelled a burning smell and my wife said she saw some smoke from under the hood. I had neglected to look at my newly installed trans temp gauge during all the maneuvering as I was watching my mirror and the trailer so closely.
The gauge had reached ~180F and it was only about 55F outside. I know this violated the ambient plus 100 rule, so I allowed it to idle and cool down to 140 or less. When I got the trailer unhooked and the Ex back in the garage I crawled under it and the smell was definitely burnt tranny fluid and it was coming from the front of the bell housing or the access hole for the torque converter, not 100% sure.
So my question is, have I toasted my tranny, or was it just a mild overheat situation and it will recover just fine? If I am towing and the trans temp gets above 180 again will it start leaking most likely? Is it just something like a pump seal that I could drop the tranny and replace relatively easily, or have I most likely done internal damage. Hoping I did not just cost myself a tranny build on a truck with only 73k miles :-(.
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I stopped, put the car in park, and the idle was very rough, sounded like it was trying to clear itself from being flooded. There were no warning lights or blinking check engine lights, so I drove off.
Heres where things get freaky. If I accelerated any more than 1/4 of the gas pedal, the car would buck and the ICE would shut off completely. Then when I let go of the gas, the ICE would start back up. If i feathered the gas lightly, the ICE would stay running. After the car warmed up, this behavior disappeared.
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