Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Truck Starts Then Dies A Few Seconds Later And Battery Light Illuminates
Apr 24, 2014
This is concerning my little brothers truck. It is a 2008 4.2 liter with around 55,000 miles on it.
He drove it to work today, and called me this afternoon saying that the truck starts then dies a few seconds later, and the battery light illuminates. He and a coworker checked the battery and connections....cleaned off corrosion on terminals, battery reads 12.xx volts without a load on it, it is the original though.
As of right now he is changing the fuel filter which hasn't been done yet. I also know of issues with the fuel pump driver module. I remember checking the one on my 2005 back when I owned it. As I recall it causes a no start condition, but would it cause a start then stop condition like this? He will check this when he is done with the filter.
Anything else that we can check in a parking lot to try and at least get it home?
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About 45 seconds after start up Battery light on dash illuminates. Gauge shows in good range. Fluke meter across battery terminals reads 14.2 - 14.4 volts at idle with lights on high beam. No TDC's.
Truck is new to me, engine was replaced recently so I did do a check of harness connections with no problems found, what I should check next ?
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Simple enough the truck starts then after about 30 seconds it bogs down and dies. I am getting these codes.
705 Transmission Range Sensor Out of Position
708 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input
720 Output Speed Sensor Insufficient Input
743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit
745 Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction
1747 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid A- Short Circuit
Sounds to me like the converter it locked up. What do you think? Its a 5.4L
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This is regarding a 2008 F150 - STX. The light that illuminates the odometer is out. I saw the procedure to get to it on Alldata and it looks pretty easy. Next I went to the bulb chart in the user's manual and it said, for any instrument lamp replacement, see the dealer.
I called my local dealer and he said that they were some special kind of bulb but that he was out of stock. I know they can usually get these things quickly but I figured that auto parts stores would have them. It appears I was wrong. I looked on Autozone's web p-age and they show every bulb.... except instrument panel bulbs.
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I have an 02 X, and it's been giving us trouble for almost 2 years now. We've babied it along, but it is acting so crazy now. Here's the current weirdness...
Truck idles, ABS light comes on, within 15 seconds engine dies. Battery is DEAD, must have a jump to restart. Otherwise, if we catch the ABS light and Rev the engine to 2500 rpm and hold it for a few seconds until the ABS light goes out, then it is fine and does not die.
We have replaced the alternator with a stock Ford brand (whatever their brand is from the dealer) because we were told the ones from the auto part stores didn't have a strong enough or steady enough current. (This thing had already eaten 3 auto parts store brand alternators in 2 years.)
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A few days ago, I went to start the car, and it will start, and idle fine for a few seconds, and then begin to run crappy, idle down, and die. I tried starting it, and giving it some accelerator pedal, and it dies. I changed the timing belt, idler pulley, and tensioner this summer, so I'm ruling out a bad timing belt. There is no check engine light, and I replaced the plug wires because when I removed the cover, I noticed one of them was worn in a spot, and the wire shielding inside the rubber insulation was visible.
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I am having a strange issue with my truck. It is a f150 2009 xlt ext cab 4x4 5.4 liter
For the past 2 weeks I've had this light thump about 1 or 2 seconds after the truck starts driving,not really annoying but it kinda got me wondering
Since last week it makes a weird scraping noise from the rear end when coming to a stop (10-0 kmh) it doesn't do it all the time though
For a couple days now it makes this terrible squeaking/scratching/whatever(very loud) noise from the rear end when i accelerate from a dead stop, the one time when i crossed a highway, last night when i backed out of a parking spot (again not all the time).
Also when driving through a parking lot,hitting a few bumps and dips I can hear a rattling noise coming from underneath the truck.
Transfer case due for replacement? I don't know what this could be.....
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I recently had my alternator and battery replaced due to my truck dying out randomly on me, tested the alternator and failed, replaced battery, and still got the same results, battery gauge seems to drop quickly, what could be going on, I have been told to replace the fusible link that goes from the battery to the alternator....
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My buddies truck runs fine, but when he floors it he says it dies out. Like it shuts off. Lets off the throttle n it comes back.
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I've got 200k on my Lariat. Engine was replaced 60k ago. It's in outstanding shape and is driven a lot. Suddenly this morning I start as usual and it runs about 5 seconds then stalls out. Every start, same thing. So it seems I am getting fuel pressure to start but it doesn't last.
I did replace the Fuel Pump Module within the past two years, due to corrosion of the FPM housing. At that time the truck would no start at all. Could it have gone bad already? I'm thinking this must be an electronics failure. It was perfect all day yesterday. 2004 Lariat 5.4...
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I have a 2005 ranger SOHC 4.0 new rebuilt engine It starts then dies after a few seconds then doesn't start at all unless it sets for a few hours or over night and will do same thing. It has 60 psi on fuel rail, good spark I'm starting to think my PCM is causing all this?
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2004 F150 5.4 3v. I bought the truck with 102k on it, it now has 124k. In the morning, when the outside temp is between 30-50, the engine starts and runs fine. When I get to the first red light ( about 1 mile away) within seconds of the engine at idle, engine starts to run rough and CEL. Every time the code is p0351. If I let it sit in the driveway to full warm up... no problem. If I start the truck, shut it off and restart...no problem. It only happens at the cooler temps. I have changed plugs, used motorcraft, nickel antiseize, torqued, etc. Ford changed the coil, I have changed the coil, cleaned MAF. As soon as I cross the intersection, light stays on, rough running clears up, and runs like a champ for the rest of the day.
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When I turn the steering wheel all the way one way the truck dies and I was on the highway and getting off the highway and I was doing about 60 and put it in neutral and I was coasting and it died... when I put it in neutral the tach went down to idle then the needle went up to about 1500 and dropped back down to idle then the truck died.
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I drive a 2006 Lincoln Mark LT and recently had a new heater core installed, but now when I try to drive it, it cuts off on me once I get out of the driveway. It starts back up fine, but then cuts again seconds after I try to drive. When I start the car it idles fine. I could have it idling for 10 minutes plus and have no issues, but once I shift it into gear and begin to back out of the drive way it shuts down again.
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When I put truck in 4wd rear end starts locking up. Take out of 4wd its fine. Just put 2 quarts of fluid. They didn't have the 75-140 so I put in 85-140 was that bad. Had rear rebuilt a year ago. Mechanic said he had to put a different gear assembly because ford didn't make the original any more. Ever since this was done rear just never seemed right. Now in 4wd if I go straight it's fine but as soon as I make a turn rear locks up almost coming to a grinding stop.
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I have a 2004 fx4 with a 5.4L. i have an edge performance programer and these are the codes that are coming up....
1) P0121
2) P2104
3)P2106
4)P2111
5)P2135
I have cleared these codes and reset the main computer the truck barely starts and will not accelerate...could the spark plugs be an issue...
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Read a few references but nothing seems the same as what I have... 2001 Ford F150 Larite 5.4L 4 x 4
When slowing down, at speeds of 3 to 4 miles per hours truck starts to shutter. It is not an engine issue, nor a brake as it will occur with brakes on or not applied. Engine is running smooth, seems more mechanical that fuel or brake related. Shutter is not slight either.
Both CV axles, hubs, rotors and upper and lower A Frames have been replaced. Shutter was happening prior to the replacement, they were replaced as preventive maintenance. Shutter is profound enough to shake the mirrors. What it can be.
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I have a 2006 F150 that cranks but will not start. I sprayed ether into intake and got it to start but engine dies if gas pedal pressed. It idles after starting just will not accelerate.
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I've shipped my R32 back to the UK, the combination of cold and damp weather has taken it's toll on my car. I started it up Saturday and left it ticking over to allow it to warm up before driving it. The car is used to Houston heat, so a few minutes running will allow the oil to warm a little as the weather here is around 40F at the moment. The car ran for 5 or so minutes, then stalled.
The car starts to about 3 seconds, then dies. I have checked VAGCOM, the only fault is a steering wheel sensor (?). It has a full belly of Shell 99 RON fuel and was serviced just before if left the USA in October.
I have had it towed to the local dealer for repair. I have tried disconnecting the battery for 30 mins to reset the car, it didn't make any difference. I have also tried another key in case it's s sync problem.
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I've got an issue with my 92 2.3 ranger.... sitting at idle for 30 or so seconds it starts to chug and sometimes dies.... I can hit the throttle and its fine for another 30 or so seconds.... while cruising on the freeway after about 30 minutes it starts to cut out badly... let out of throttle for a few seconds and it clears up and drives fine...
Here's the part that has me confused... pulled codes yesterday using a innova scan tool...
koeo were 4, 10, and 538...
koer were 111, 10, 157, 158, 181, 327, 328, and 334....
How does it give me a 111 pass code and then still come up with all the other codes? I am thinking my ecu may be screwed.....
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I just replaced the water pump and put it all back together, now it won't run well enough to drive. Checked vacuum system, all sensor connections, hoses, gas cap, changed fuel filter, I can hear the fuel pump kick in, reset system with battery disconnected and have looked at everything I can think of so far.
Now - starts fine, idles about 10 seconds and then begins to idle rough and dies. If I use the throttle I can often keep the idle up, but then backfires or acts like no fuel and again dies. Used fuel cleaner and made sure there was plenty fuel in tank.
I am looking at replacing sensors at this point but which one first?? They get a bit expensive real quick.
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