Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Truck Start By Jumping The Wires On Starter
Jan 24, 2011
I just got this truck about a month ago now and today it started fine and when I got home from work, I ate dinner and then went out and it started fine and once i got home i let it sit for an hour and then went to do more errand and it wouldn't start. I checked fuses and what not it all looks ok. I got the truck to start by jumping the wires on the starter. What might be causing the truck to do this? as i say today is the first time this has happened?
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I have an 04 f150 and just changed the alternator yesterday, and 4 hours later it wouldn't start starter clicks but no crank.
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So I'll be driving down the road and the gauges will randomly start jumping around then the truck will just shut off, this just started a couple days ago, it seems to be gaining in frequency, when i try and restart the engine all my warning lights flash on and nothing happens, try again and it starts back up, now the last time it happened all of the above happened but it was followed by a fast clicking noise from under the steering column, it has to be a electrical issue as i have full tanks and motor is in tip top shape. Also no codes pop up with my code reader.
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I may have to replace the starter on my truck. Have heard it is difficult especially on the top bolt. Any stickys/bulletins on how to do this.
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In a rush, I accidentally hooked the cables up wrong while jumping it off. Now the lights and all come on, but it will not start at all....
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Just got an 04 f150 STX 4.6L Regular cab.
Drove fine for a few months (she's a little rough, but she does the trick).
The other day, I went out to go to work, truck would start and run, won't come out of park. Both turn signal indicators on the dash are illuminated, turn signals, flashers, radio and Climate controls do not work.
Currently driving with the emergency shifter release pulled out and zip tied open. First thought was interlock switch, but I'm not sure if that would affect everything else.
This happened once before, and I pulled all the taillights and checked all fuses, then it just seemed to work again after flipping the rheostat for the interior/dash lights. didn't work this time around.
Dash is all torn apart - where to start looking?
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I just went out to move my truck to take out garbage and it cranks but doesn't start. It is 4.6L 4WD. I sprayed ether in intake no change. Checked all fuses all good. It has been raining pretty hard the last 3 days and it has been sitting in rain all 3 days. I checked for codes with a simple code scanner no codes. But the code scanner I used is not able to do KOEO or KOER tests. I know it needs new plugs but it has never sputtered or died on me. Has slight misfire but not engine stopping. I havnt had any check engine lights or problems before.
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I have a 2002 Ford Ranger, and it wont start at all. Ive replaced the starter, had the battery checked. Not the battery, took starter out, had it checked too, its not the starter either. Someone said it maybe a fuse? This is totally frustrating, and I need to get it figured and fixed asap. Its been going on for weeks., I had it fixed and then it just stopped. It wont even take a jump anymore.
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My friend had his 2008 F150 Limited washed and they apparently decided to pressure wash the engine.
Now the check engine light is on, and it runs like crap. At least yesterday, today it won't even start.
What is broken? The codes said something about the throttle body?
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The other day my truck stalled out and wouldn't start so I had it towed to the shop, the shop tested the fuel pump but couldn't find anything and it fired up and ran fine for them. It ran fine for a day and now is running extremely rich. The only code it's throwing is P0452 which is for the evap system. I spent awhile searching but couldn't find any answer on it.
I couldn't find any loose connections in the harness or on top of the fuel tank, I had the classic FDPM issues before so I replaced that. I'm beyond frustrated with this hulk seems like once a month it wants to quit working.
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I have a 2007 F-150 5.4l that does not crank when you turn the key to start. I have tried jumping the starter over and it does crank after that but it will not start. I am completely stumped by this and I'm not sure what the problem is?
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I have a 95 Ford Ranger 2.3L with a five speed. I recently had a starting issue were I parked the truck, went into a store came back out and the truck wouldn't start. Figured it was the solenoid as I couldn't jump across it to get the truck to start. Replaced the solenoid. Still no go. Found a fuse in the starting circuit blown. Replaced the fuse and got it started and drove home. Next morning, I go to leave for work and the truck would not start. Got a ride to work came home and checked it over and found the starter locked up. I replaced the starter. Truck started for a few days and now I am having problems again.
Here is the problem I am having now. Starter is good. Proved that as I can start the truck by jumping across the starter relay. Checked the solenoid with a voltmeter and it is doing what it is supposed to do when the truck starts normal. Here is where I am scratching my head. I can start the truck sometimes and it starts just fine. Next time I try to start it, the fuse will blow.
Replace the fuse and it might work for a couple of starts and then the fuse will blow again. I jumped pass the fuse with a piece of wire for diagnostic purposes. Out of 20 starts, it only started normally 4 or 5 times. I have checked every wire I can see under the dash and have not found any obvious issues. I am at a point where I am so frustrated that I just want to push this 400k mile truck into the back forty and put it out of its misery like a lame horse.
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I have a 2006 f150 fx4 4x4. I drove it home from work yesterday and it ran and drove just fine. I got up this morning to go to work and turn the key but the engine won't fire. I turns over just fine. I turn the key to release the trans to put it in neutral to see if it would start like that and the shifter is stuck. I button in the front will not go in. I tried lifting the rear tires off the ground to see if I could free the trans.
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My 04 f150 has been sitting upwards in my drive way for a month now won't start cranks great with full power..
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I went for a tour with my truck and everything was fine, 5 minutes before getting home I heard a squealing coming from under the hood, I then lost all my gauges inside the truck. The truck didn't shut off so I drove it home. when I shut it off I tried restarting it and it wouldn't even roll over. I tried boosting it and it still won't even crank over.
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I have a 2007 F-150 5.4L V3 Lariat with 90,000 miles on it. For about 5-6 months now I have noticed a strong sputtering when I am driving at low RPM's around the 44-50 mph range. When I lightly give it gas the sputtering begins and doesn't cease until I accelerate out of the current gear into a higher RPM/speed. This has become more pronounced over the last few weeks so my mechanic replaced the fuel flter and checked to make sure the pump was working as well. We also added some 5w-30 oil to make it full, even though 5-20 is preferred.
Truck ran smooth initially but then it got worse with the sputtering. A couple of days later I filled up my gas tank and as I pulled out of the station my truck shuttered alot and died. the CEL came on, LOP came on, and even the low tire pressure light came on. The truck will not start now, but it cranks smooth and strong until the battery loses power. I had the truck towed and then we reset the gas shut of toggle, sprayed starting fluid in the air intake, and checked all fuses, as well as the fuel pump engagement. Still no ignition. Next we replaced all spark plugs(4.5 hours later). Still no ignition. Only CEL light and low tire pressure light. I bought it used less than 18 months ago?
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What happened is I went to get in the truck I opened the door and the gauges and blower motor came on by itself like the ignition is in the on position. I put the key in the ignition and the truck didn't do anything. No crank or anything and I did notice the anti theft light blinking really fast. I unplugged the battery and plugged it back up then the truck started but I went to shut it off and pulled the key out the ignition and truck stayed running. But also the blower in the truck and the gauges are still staying on. People keep saying it's my key but why would the stuff cut on by itself inside the truck when I just opened the door?
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Truck was running fine up until now. After the WTS light goes out, I crank it and.... nothing. It doesn't even try. It's not a battery problem. I have 12.6 V from each battery before and after cranking. The lights are bright, the horn works, the dash lights are strong and bright all both before and after cranking. It just doesn't want to engage the starter. I tried my backup key as well, thinking it might be a problem with the PATS. No dice. Where to start looking?
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My alarm started going off by itself and my truck would not start so we unhooked the horn but the alarm was still trying to go off making a ticking noise when the horn should have been honking. so we also unhooked the alarm. And it started right up. I've been driving it with those things off with no problem. But today it wouldn't start again and its making a ticking noise like the horn is trying to honk.
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I have a 2006 F150 that cranks but will not start. I sprayed ether into intake and got it to start but engine dies if gas pedal pressed. It idles after starting just will not accelerate.
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I'm trying to get friend's 04 F150 4x4 started. I think it might be the ignition switch. Here's what I've done. Turn the Key and nothing happens. Not even a clicking sound from the battery.
-verified the battery had a good charge and that terminals were clean, connections were tight.
-checked the fuses in the passenger side kick panel, none were blown
-Determined there was power to the primary Pos wire going to the starter , but no power being sent to the smaller wire that goes to solenoid at the starter.
-Hooked a jumper wire to the starter solenoid and engine did crank (so starter is good and battery is making good connection)
This is why I'm thinking its the ignition switch.
1) Where is the ignition switch located?
2)How can I test the ignition switch?
3)Could it be the "cylinder lock and keys" that is faulty?
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