Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Truck Stalled Out And Would Not Start - Code P0452
Jun 30, 2013
The other day my truck stalled out and wouldn't start so I had it towed to the shop, the shop tested the fuel pump but couldn't find anything and it fired up and ran fine for them. It ran fine for a day and now is running extremely rich. The only code it's throwing is P0452 which is for the evap system. I spent awhile searching but couldn't find any answer on it.
I couldn't find any loose connections in the harness or on top of the fuel tank, I had the classic FDPM issues before so I replaced that. I'm beyond frustrated with this hulk seems like once a month it wants to quit working.
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I'm getting a p0452 fault on my 2002 Escape 3.0 V6 2WD. From what I've read, that seems to indicate low FTP signal below .22v. As I understand it, the FTP sensor has 5 v applied, and the output to the ECU goes down as tank static pressure increases. Conversely, I think the voltage back to the ECU goes up as tank static pressure decreases (for the vacuum leak test measurement).
What the approximate voltage is at atmosphere (engine not running, vent valve open, etc)?
I'm guessing the "less than .22v minimum" signal back to the ECU might look more like either the signal wire shorted to the frame somewhere or the signal wire open (maybe corrosion in the connector)....
Also, where the FTP sensor is located on the Escape and how to access it?
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So I bought a 2006 F150 stx reg cab with the 4.6l motor with 90k miles on it a few weeks ago. It was in really good condition and I couldn't pass the deal up. All in all, I love this truck. However at idle the truck is a bit rough. No check engine light, but a bit rough non the less. So I hooked up my obd2 torque app and I see I have anywhere between 6 and 60 total counted misfires, but none detected by individual cylinder. So I ran a scan and have a B1360 code without the CEL on. So I changed the plugs and coil packs and cleaned the k&n filer (non cold air filter, just a replacement k&n) and I still have all the symptoms and the b136p code. So I Google the b1360 code and there's very little on it. Basically says open circuit ignition.
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Well my p2106 code seems to be different from all the other ones Ive read. I get the p2106 code after the truck goes into "FAILSAFE MODE" and it only goes into failsafe mode the moment the truck reaches 40mph and then loses all its power. I turn the truck off and back on and its back to normal until I go 40mph again. I scan it and only get one code p2106. The truck idles and runs perfectly until it reaches 40mph! I've replaced the entire throttle body with a new one from ford and it keeps doing the same thing. I don't want to keep buying electronic parts as they are not returnable. My truck is a 2005 Expedition with 72k miles on it
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We (a relative of mine and I) replaced the gas tank on my 2004 Sante Fe a few months back, as it had rusted through. After a day of swearing and such, we got it replaced and running. During that, the engine light was on, so i figured that it was due to the excessive fuel leaks.
I take it in to work and scan for codes, and it popped up with the P0452 code for the evap solenoid circuit (and the rear o2 code, but that was quickly addressed). Just for giggles, i removed the rear seat and access panel to double check our fuel connections, and found that we forgot to hook up a wiring harness. The only issue is that I am scratching my head as to where it is supposed to plug into, as i do not see any connectors in the area of the tank.
(As you can see from the pics, both wiring harnesses are plugged into the mounting plate for the fuel pump, and included 2 pics of the offending harness)...
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2008 F150 5.4L .. The truck lost all power the other day driving and barely made it to work. On the ride home it was still running horribly, like it just fell on its face. the check engine light came on. Went to autozone and put HEAT in the gas tank cuz the night before it was at quarter tank and temp went from warm to freezing(thought maybe condensation in tank).. Truck ran a lot better( not perfect). Drove around that day and it was fine. Pulled down the driveway and CE light shut off. Ran the code anyways and it was P0012..
Talked to a few mechanics and they said try replacing the Camshaft position sensors..did so and it ran worse. the truck hardly would idle or rev and shook violently..i shut it down right away. Then it threw 9 codes..Cam shaft position- over retarded timing bank 1(P0012), misfire cyl2, misfire cyl3, misfire cyl 4, random misfire, cam sensor bank 1, three of them were repeated codes..
I replaced the sensors back to stock and cleared the codes. the truck is running like it was in the beginning of the problem..No vilant shaking but falling right on its face at idle and any rpm..not drivable. Would rather do the work myself. very capable except for replacing camshaft phasers which i have heard could be the issue..Could it by the VCT seliniod, EGR valve, plugs, wires...Did just change the oil a week ago and cleaned and reoiled air filter.
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Just got an 04 f150 STX 4.6L Regular cab.
Drove fine for a few months (she's a little rough, but she does the trick).
The other day, I went out to go to work, truck would start and run, won't come out of park. Both turn signal indicators on the dash are illuminated, turn signals, flashers, radio and Climate controls do not work.
Currently driving with the emergency shifter release pulled out and zip tied open. First thought was interlock switch, but I'm not sure if that would affect everything else.
This happened once before, and I pulled all the taillights and checked all fuses, then it just seemed to work again after flipping the rheostat for the interior/dash lights. didn't work this time around.
Dash is all torn apart - where to start looking?
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I just went out to move my truck to take out garbage and it cranks but doesn't start. It is 4.6L 4WD. I sprayed ether in intake no change. Checked all fuses all good. It has been raining pretty hard the last 3 days and it has been sitting in rain all 3 days. I checked for codes with a simple code scanner no codes. But the code scanner I used is not able to do KOEO or KOER tests. I know it needs new plugs but it has never sputtered or died on me. Has slight misfire but not engine stopping. I havnt had any check engine lights or problems before.
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I just got this truck about a month ago now and today it started fine and when I got home from work, I ate dinner and then went out and it started fine and once i got home i let it sit for an hour and then went to do more errand and it wouldn't start. I checked fuses and what not it all looks ok. I got the truck to start by jumping the wires on the starter. What might be causing the truck to do this? as i say today is the first time this has happened?
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My friend had his 2008 F150 Limited washed and they apparently decided to pressure wash the engine.
Now the check engine light is on, and it runs like crap. At least yesterday, today it won't even start.
What is broken? The codes said something about the throttle body?
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I have a 2007 F-150 5.4l that does not crank when you turn the key to start. I have tried jumping the starter over and it does crank after that but it will not start. I am completely stumped by this and I'm not sure what the problem is?
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I have an 04 f150 and just changed the alternator yesterday, and 4 hours later it wouldn't start starter clicks but no crank.
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I have a 2006 f150 fx4 4x4. I drove it home from work yesterday and it ran and drove just fine. I got up this morning to go to work and turn the key but the engine won't fire. I turns over just fine. I turn the key to release the trans to put it in neutral to see if it would start like that and the shifter is stuck. I button in the front will not go in. I tried lifting the rear tires off the ground to see if I could free the trans.
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My 04 f150 has been sitting upwards in my drive way for a month now won't start cranks great with full power..
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I went for a tour with my truck and everything was fine, 5 minutes before getting home I heard a squealing coming from under the hood, I then lost all my gauges inside the truck. The truck didn't shut off so I drove it home. when I shut it off I tried restarting it and it wouldn't even roll over. I tried boosting it and it still won't even crank over.
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I have a 2007 F-150 5.4L V3 Lariat with 90,000 miles on it. For about 5-6 months now I have noticed a strong sputtering when I am driving at low RPM's around the 44-50 mph range. When I lightly give it gas the sputtering begins and doesn't cease until I accelerate out of the current gear into a higher RPM/speed. This has become more pronounced over the last few weeks so my mechanic replaced the fuel flter and checked to make sure the pump was working as well. We also added some 5w-30 oil to make it full, even though 5-20 is preferred.
Truck ran smooth initially but then it got worse with the sputtering. A couple of days later I filled up my gas tank and as I pulled out of the station my truck shuttered alot and died. the CEL came on, LOP came on, and even the low tire pressure light came on. The truck will not start now, but it cranks smooth and strong until the battery loses power. I had the truck towed and then we reset the gas shut of toggle, sprayed starting fluid in the air intake, and checked all fuses, as well as the fuel pump engagement. Still no ignition. Next we replaced all spark plugs(4.5 hours later). Still no ignition. Only CEL light and low tire pressure light. I bought it used less than 18 months ago?
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What happened is I went to get in the truck I opened the door and the gauges and blower motor came on by itself like the ignition is in the on position. I put the key in the ignition and the truck didn't do anything. No crank or anything and I did notice the anti theft light blinking really fast. I unplugged the battery and plugged it back up then the truck started but I went to shut it off and pulled the key out the ignition and truck stayed running. But also the blower in the truck and the gauges are still staying on. People keep saying it's my key but why would the stuff cut on by itself inside the truck when I just opened the door?
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My alarm started going off by itself and my truck would not start so we unhooked the horn but the alarm was still trying to go off making a ticking noise when the horn should have been honking. so we also unhooked the alarm. And it started right up. I've been driving it with those things off with no problem. But today it wouldn't start again and its making a ticking noise like the horn is trying to honk.
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I have a 2006 F150 that cranks but will not start. I sprayed ether into intake and got it to start but engine dies if gas pedal pressed. It idles after starting just will not accelerate.
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I'm trying to get friend's 04 F150 4x4 started. I think it might be the ignition switch. Here's what I've done. Turn the Key and nothing happens. Not even a clicking sound from the battery.
-verified the battery had a good charge and that terminals were clean, connections were tight.
-checked the fuses in the passenger side kick panel, none were blown
-Determined there was power to the primary Pos wire going to the starter , but no power being sent to the smaller wire that goes to solenoid at the starter.
-Hooked a jumper wire to the starter solenoid and engine did crank (so starter is good and battery is making good connection)
This is why I'm thinking its the ignition switch.
1) Where is the ignition switch located?
2)How can I test the ignition switch?
3)Could it be the "cylinder lock and keys" that is faulty?
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I have a 2005 F150 5.4l. The CEL came on a couple days ago, but there were no driveability symptoms, and my code reader was 2 hours away, so I didn't pull the codes.
Today, I left for work and pulled onto the freeway, I went to pass a vehicle, and rolled on the throttle (maybe 60%) l and the truck fell flat. I backed out of the throttle, checked the gauges, all looked good, so I tried again. The second attempt ended the same as the first, it fell flat and felt much like a APP/TPS correlation/limp mode.
Before I had a chance to even think, it bucked a couple times and stalled (felt like running out of fuel). I coasted to the side of the road and tried to restart. When the ignition is on, the dash lights come on as expected, when turned to the start position the relay under the dash clicks, but it doesn't crank, and the starter solenoid does not click.
I have checked the starter and PCM relays. Both are good. I have not disconnected the battery or started pulling fuses as I want to retrieve the codes first. I am able to turn the engine over with a pry bar.
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