Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Truck Shut Off While Driving / Throttle Actuator Stuck Closed
May 18, 2012
I am usually on 6.0 site and don't know much about a 5.4 gasser, hope to get some tech info. My buddy was driving to my house yesterday and his 06 F-150 with a 5.4 liter just shut off while driving. He got it restarted on first try, all engine vitals normal. I sent him to Advance Auto Parts and they pulled codes; P-2112 and P-2104 and throttle actuator stuck closed. Engine is running fine and he has driven it about 100 miles since yesterday with no problems. 06 F-150 5.4 liter 58,000 miles.
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Where is the Throttle Actuator Control Module Processor on a 2008 5.4L? Is it built into the throttle body, or integrated into the PCM?
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I have a 2005 f-150 street boss with 79000 mile, and it is shooting off going down the road, and the check engine light is flashing. The first time I started it back up and it would idle fine, but the throttle wouldn't do any thing. After setting about 15 min. I started it up and it ran good. I checked the codes and it had a p2104 Throttle actuator control system forced idle. It happened again with my wife. This time when I checked the codes it had the p2104 and a p2112 throttle actuator control system stuck closed code. What could be the problem, or a troubleshooting guide I could use to try and diagnose it.
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i tried to fix my door actuator in my 2009 prius. However after I closed my door, now I can't open it from the inside or outside. I can reach in the door and manually pull the level on the actuator and is still will not open.
Now I just want to get the actuator out and put a new actuator in. Hopefully this is possible and if so how? Yes I still have the interior panel off and the vapor barrier pulled back
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I've got an 06 F150, 5.4l crew cab lariat. So to start, I had a programmer screw up my ECU, so when I got it re programmed at ford, everything works except for the ABS sensors. I recently had someone break into my truck and broke my stereo when they couldn't get it out. So I was driving home from work the other day and lost my whole instrument cluster, windows wouldn't roll up or down, wipers worked very slowly until not at all. shut off the truck and wouldn't restart. I jumped it and started it. ran fine. with the exception of the previous problems. I noticed when it got dark out that my my taillights and head lights were on very dimly with the switch off. Also hearing a clicking sound coming from under the truck, at the back of the cab and front of the bed. the only thing electric that's back there is the fuel pump (i believe). I am at a complete loss.
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So I'll be driving down the road and the gauges will randomly start jumping around then the truck will just shut off, this just started a couple days ago, it seems to be gaining in frequency, when i try and restart the engine all my warning lights flash on and nothing happens, try again and it starts back up, now the last time it happened all of the above happened but it was followed by a fast clicking noise from under the steering column, it has to be a electrical issue as i have full tanks and motor is in tip top shape. Also no codes pop up with my code reader.
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I was driving and shut off the truck to get gas after that the heater will not turn back on. I checked the fuses but was wondering if there is anything else. I would suspect this is more electrical. It is cold. 2006 150 4x4....
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I was driving down a road tonight and my entire truck shut down, and it said engine safe mode. I lost all power steering and gas, all I had were breaks and electronics. What does that mean?
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What happened is I went to get in the truck I opened the door and the gauges and blower motor came on by itself like the ignition is in the on position. I put the key in the ignition and the truck didn't do anything. No crank or anything and I did notice the anti theft light blinking really fast. I unplugged the battery and plugged it back up then the truck started but I went to shut it off and pulled the key out the ignition and truck stayed running. But also the blower in the truck and the gauges are still staying on. People keep saying it's my key but why would the stuff cut on by itself inside the truck when I just opened the door?
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.Here is a run down of my truck 05 5.4L Screw has 130K on it. Sometime when going up a slight incline the truck at partial throttle will shake very very little. if I put my foot into it the shake goes away and the truck response just fine. It only does this when going uphill on the freeway and on the streets here in Dallas that have slight inclines.
The truck is not throwing any codes nor does it stall at lights. Starts right up in the morning and runs good. Nothing done to the truck except I have an Edge programmer and Magnaflow exhaust. I have pulled the programmer off and returned the truck to stock and it still does the same thing.
I bought the truck used in 07 had 40K miles on it. I'm thinking spark plugs or maybe a coil is going bad. But this doesn't happen all the time just here and there.
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I have a 2006 f150 fx4 4x4. I drove it home from work yesterday and it ran and drove just fine. I got up this morning to go to work and turn the key but the engine won't fire. I turns over just fine. I turn the key to release the trans to put it in neutral to see if it would start like that and the shifter is stuck. I button in the front will not go in. I tried lifting the rear tires off the ground to see if I could free the trans.
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My truck gear shift is stuck in Park (console type). I have been reading threads that discuss potential causes such as blown fuses, bad brake switch, bad brake shift interlock actuator, and even ignition switch. All fuses are okay. Before I try to get into all the other possibilities, I have a question around what the local auto parts worker suggested. He said that there is a small plastic piece that may have slipped down interfering with gear movement. This could make sense, especially since the white manual release lever doesn't seem to be moving.
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My son who is away at college, has a 04 F150 that has a center console and he can't get the truck to shift out of the 'Park' position. I told him to try and rock the truck back and forth and then try again...no luck.
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I was driving my truck down my driveway and it just shut off, it will not start, when I turn on the key the fuel pump will not run and when I try to start it the engine will not turn over. Neither the starter or fuel pump relay click. When I turn the key to the on position all the lights and radio still work. When the key is on the small red light on top of the dash begins to flash rapidly. My boss tried to hook his snap-on scanner to the obd2 port but it will not let him retrieve any of the codes and continuously tells him to cycle the key through the on and off positions giving zero results.
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I have a 2004 F150 XLT SCAB 5.4L 3v Fuel that I drive Daily, it has 280,000 miles on it. While driving to work (70mph) my throttle became unresponsive and it felt like the transmission was downshifting. Made my way to the edge of the highway and placed truck into Neutral, then the engine quit. Tried restarting at which point would not fire. After letting the truck sit (while waiting for a tow) I decided to try to start it. The Truck did start and ran for only about 2 minutes and then quit. The Tow truck finally arrived and I tried to start again with the same problem occurring, stated and ran for about 2 minutes (no throttle response) and died.
Got the truck home and decided to remove the Fuel line from the filter to see if there was fuel flowing, which there was none and no pressure. Replaced the FPDM with a new one, old unit was corroded but not cracked (replaced it once before). Tried to start and would only crank with out any fuel flowing (still had it removed from the filter). Thinking it may be the Fuel Pump but have to drain the tank being that I just filled it this morning before it died. The problem is, how to drain the tank before lowering it if the Fuel Pump is not running??? What the Problem is or how to test Fuel Pump or drain the Tank?
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2008 F150 4.2l Popping noise cannot detect source. When the truck gets warm it makes popping noise while driving or parked with engine shut off. Noise is getting louder. This truck has about 50,000 miles on it."
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I have a 2008 F150 with a 4.6 litre in it. Last year I dropped a couple of plugs and had a factory new, second generation 4.6 installed. The motor only has about 25,000 on it while the rest of the truck has about 160,000. I was driving back roads in western Mass and went over a small, about four inches deep, pothole. I was driving about 35 miles per hour.
I didn't get any associated master warning lights. The RPM started rolling back from about 1700 to 0, and when they got to 0, the engine shut off. There was no previous sign of a fuel pump going bad, or of a bad fuel filter, which is also less than a year old. The truck has plenty of electrical power and turns over strong but won't start.
I checked the #9 fuse as identified in the manual but couldn't find an actual relay for the fuel pump, so I'm assuming it just has the 20 amp fuse which was good by the way. I'm thinking that the fuel pump would have given a few warning signs, but maybe not.
I did check the emergency fuel shutoff switch to make sure that it had not activated when I hit the pot hole and unless I'm resetting it incorrectly, it doesn't seem to have been set off.
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My 2005 STX 4.6 fuel pump crashed a couple of months ago. A couple of days after having it replaced I started having hard/rough starting problems accompanied by a 0300 and 0301 code. I reset the codes several times and they only come back during the 3rd or 4th hard start, never while driving. The hard starts occur after the engine is shut off for more than a few minutes after driving. I have replaced the plugs, #1 COP, remaining COP boots, Cam Pos Sensor, Fuel pump drive module and had and FI. Also had the fuel pump replaced again on warranty thinking maybe a bad check valve. Again...it worked perfectly for a day and now I'm back to square one. Haven't gotten any codes YET but its only been a day. Bad injector? EGR?
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Have a 99 Ranger XLT, 4 cyl, manual transmission with 191K miles. Was running good as ever last night but went to start it this morning and throttle's stuck open, causing truck to move forward when in 1st gear. Even with clutch in, near impossible to get vehicle in or out of gear. Managed to get it into reverse, but truck was having none of it. What is the cause or causes of my trouble? Or how much the repairs might cost? I'm on the road so no chance of doing this myself.
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Ok so long story short, my Viper 2 way alarm, instead of the brain being wired to each of the 4 doors individually, the installer ran 1 wire to the dome light. seems to work fine as far as arming/disarming/locking/unlocking, but since the dome light stays on for 10 seconds or whatever after the door is shut.
When I arm it, the 2 way remote says "door open" because the light is still on so it thinks a door is open. this eventually times out and all the sensors arm, but theres a long delay. it arms fine and no alerts pop up if i lock the doors first from the outside keypad on the door, making the lights go off, then hit arm on the viper, and everything is good to go.
can i change it so no matter what, as SOON as i shut the door, the light goes off? i want there to be NO delay, if possible. if not, i may need to just have the installer run a wire to each door and take the single run to the dome light off, as it is sorta annoying to me.
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I drive a 2006 Lincoln Mark LT and recently had a new heater core installed, but now when I try to drive it, it cuts off on me once I get out of the driveway. It starts back up fine, but then cuts again seconds after I try to drive. When I start the car it idles fine. I could have it idling for 10 minutes plus and have no issues, but once I shift it into gear and begin to back out of the drive way it shuts down again.
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