Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Truck Has A Locked Rear?
Jan 24, 2012
I was just wondering how do I find out if my FX4 has a locked rear? We bought it used so I have no clue.
View 14 RepliesI was just wondering how do I find out if my FX4 has a locked rear? We bought it used so I have no clue.
View 14 RepliesWhen I put truck in 4wd rear end starts locking up. Take out of 4wd its fine. Just put 2 quarts of fluid. They didn't have the 75-140 so I put in 85-140 was that bad. Had rear rebuilt a year ago. Mechanic said he had to put a different gear assembly because ford didn't make the original any more. Ever since this was done rear just never seemed right. Now in 4wd if I go straight it's fine but as soon as I make a turn rear locks up almost coming to a grinding stop.
View 9 RepliesI have an 04 F150 5.4. Anyway drove truck about 200 miles this weekend. When I got back home, unloaded truck, noticed a fluid leak on the ground in the rear of truck. Upon further inspection, appears to be leaking from where the driveshaft meets the rear axle...looks like there's a gasket or yoke in the rear of the U joint? a little fluid dripped down and ran down to the lower portion of the "pumpkin" and made a quarter size oil patch in front of my house.
I would have definitely noticed such a stain before, since I park in the same spot at home and work every day. I drove to work today (14 miles) and looked under the truck for 15 minutes after I parked, don't see any drip, but do see remnants of a leak all over the front part of the rear axle. No way has any fluid leaked on the ground before, I 100% would have noticed a stain.
Thoughts on a fix for this? I had the clutch packs redone about 3 years ago under warranty, truck has 88k miles. No shudder when I drive from the rear axle, I'm assuming there is fluid in the rear gears, as a substantial leak I for sure would have seen on the ground. leak is 100% NOT coming from the seal on the rear axle, but in front of it where the shaft meets the axle. Possible that driving on the highway at 75MPH for 2 hours straight caused this leak, as my drive to work is mostly stop and go, both ways.
Ok I have a 2004 F150 Fx4 ext. cab. I had the truck for sale and due to something coming up I was unable to sell it. Kinda wish I did now. But anyways the truck was running great up until last week. I was drove it to work which I normally dont do. On my way home the rear end was making a weird noise. Kinda like a brake sticking. I tapped the brakes a few times and it seemed to work. Then a mile down the road it was doing it again without me trying to come to a stop and the back end was shaking. I pulled over and crawled under the truck to see if a u-joint was going bad. Everything seemed good. It never happened again until today.
This morning I hoped in the truck and went to my parents house. Its about a 5 mile drive and truck was acting fine. Came home and it was still fine. A few hours later I figured I would go up to the fire department I am on and find something to do up there. I got in the truck and didnt make it 5 feet from where I was parked and there was this bad noise followed by my whole truck shaking. It felt like the truck was going to fall in pieces in my driveway. I stopped looked around and didn't notice anything wrong. I figured I would just try to drive a little bit further and it was even worse. So I put it in reverse and it was normal. I put it in Drive again and thought my teeth were about to fall out of my mouth.
What could cause this? I know my transmission was leaking some oil from where the gear shifter comes out. I would check the trans fluid and add some if needed. I drove it up to the fire hall Monday night and did notice a slight burning smell but that was the only time I smelled it. Could it be the transmission?
I turn my steering wheel while the truck was off and in park and now I can't get the key to move and start the truck nor can I get the steering wheel to move. What have I done and how can I fix it?
View 7 RepliesOn my 2.2 2008 SF the rear door sometimes refuses to unlock randomly. All others are fine. Rear passengers cannot then get out!
Tried taking inner door panel off. very little access and liberal spraying of WD40...............
I have locked my keys in truck and the battery is dead. How do I get either the door or the hood open. 2005 super crew king ranch....
View 3 RepliesI have an 04 F150 (4.6, auto, 4x4, SCrew) with 300,000 miles. Any success modifying existing 4X4 IWE actuators so they are always locked in?
My last set of actuators didn't last long My vacuum is too low under hard acceleration... Actuators partially engage leading to early failure.
I'd like to take an actuator apart, modify it so it's always locked in. Some loss of mileage? Other ramifications?
06 f150 4x4 when locked in 4 hi or low front doesn't spin and there is a clanking..... not sure what to check first.... u joints look OK....
View 1 RepliesMy 2008 f150 trans locked up while throwing trans fault and o/d light flashing, won't move in gear or neutral ! At dealership waiting to be tore into in morning .
View 3 RepliesI have a UK right-hand drive Prius gen 2 2006 T4 model.
My rear door on the driver's side won't unlock. it appears to be stuck in double locked mode. It cant be unlocked manually from inside the car and the lock button just springs back to lock position (as you'd expect it to do when in double lock mode).
I can lock/unlock the car other 3 doors using the fob, I can lock/unlock the cars other 3 doors using the internal button on the driver's door.
I suspect there must be a failure of the lock motor or solenoid inside the door but I cant figure out how to get the door unlocked just so i can get the trim off and check. What the cause or remedy could be?
My son locked my keys in the cab of the truck. To complicate things, I have the Ford upgraded alarm which disables the keypad. And the real kick in the $^%, is that I only have 1 set of keys. I'm definitely going to have a couple of more sets of keys made when I get inside, how to get inside the cab. I live way out in the boonies and really would like to avoid calling a locksmith.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2008 RX 350 and I am experiencing issues with turning the key ignition and having the steering wheel locked. It gets locked and after several attempts at jimmying the key it eventually starts. My concern is that if I keep this practice up I will damage my key. I have addressed this issue to the dealership and I was naive and trusted them with fixing the problem with my last maintenance visit. Thinking the the problem was solved I started to experience the same problem again. I was first told that it is possible the my key chains are too heavy which could of caused the problem but I lightened the load and still have this problem. I've read about this problem with other people but there doesn't seem to be a solution.
One thing I have noticed is that I tend to experience this problem during the cold weather. During warmer weathers I don't have issues with the key ignition being locked but now that it's cold I am having the problem again (not sure if this has to do with anything). Do I need to change a part out to fix this? I've also read that there can be dirt in the ignition which needs to be cleaned out. Will this work and if so how do I do clean it?
My truck will not go above 30 mph - rpm's will rev high but, speed will not climb. I was able to put the truck in 2nd gear and drive home at @ 40 mph. Truck has 135K miles on it, I'm the original owner. What this might be?
View 14 RepliesI recently had my rear axle seals replaced due to leaking. Does the rear diff fluid get replaced on that repair since the rear diff cover comes off? Trying to figure out when my next interval for changing rear diff fluid should be.
View 1 RepliesMy buddies truck runs fine, but when he floors it he says it dies out. Like it shuts off. Lets off the throttle n it comes back.
View 3 Replies2004 f150, Column shift Auto...
Today I stopped the truck put it into park and shut it off, everything worked fine, when I went to go start it back up it started but I cant put it out of park, I called FORD and they said put the key into the on position press the break as hard as you can and put it into neutral, we tried that and it didn't work, then they asked if we could move the truck because it could be struck or something still nothing... We tried the little cap and hold it to override the solenoid but it didn't work I dunno if I am doing it wrong so Is there any other things I can try or can you walk me through the override button here's what I did with that.
Opened the cap with a flat head
pushed it in
And started tried to shift
Is that what you do or what do you need to do??
Is there any way I could check the solenoid how do i take apart the column to do that?
I've got a 2005 F-150 (5.4 triton) with about 35k miles that I rarely use in 4x4 mode. The other day, after stopping to fill up with gas, the truck 4x4 Lo light was on after starting it. The dashboard switch was still in 2H mode as I never switched it. I first thought that the dashboard light might be in error, but when I began to pull out of the gas station. the truck was in fact in 4x4 Lo. I had forgotten how to cycle it back to 2H so I slowly drove about 3 miles home at 20 mph.
Once home, I re-read the tranny sync sequence and managed to get back to 4x2. I called the dealer who never heard of a truck getting into that Lo mode w/o activating the switch and suggested that I just monitor it. I read a number of forum threads discussing the IWE and solenoid problems, but all of those threads dealt with issues of not being able to get too 4x4 mode. My biggest concern is that I leave in a month for a 2000 mile trip, towing a cargo trailer and I'd hate to inadvertently switch into 4/4 when traveling 60 mpg on a highway.
I have a 95 Ford Ranger 2.3L with a five speed. I recently had a starting issue were I parked the truck, went into a store came back out and the truck wouldn't start. Figured it was the solenoid as I couldn't jump across it to get the truck to start. Replaced the solenoid. Still no go. Found a fuse in the starting circuit blown. Replaced the fuse and got it started and drove home. Next morning, I go to leave for work and the truck would not start. Got a ride to work came home and checked it over and found the starter locked up. I replaced the starter. Truck started for a few days and now I am having problems again.
Here is the problem I am having now. Starter is good. Proved that as I can start the truck by jumping across the starter relay. Checked the solenoid with a voltmeter and it is doing what it is supposed to do when the truck starts normal. Here is where I am scratching my head. I can start the truck sometimes and it starts just fine. Next time I try to start it, the fuse will blow.
Replace the fuse and it might work for a couple of starts and then the fuse will blow again. I jumped pass the fuse with a piece of wire for diagnostic purposes. Out of 20 starts, it only started normally 4 or 5 times. I have checked every wire I can see under the dash and have not found any obvious issues. I am at a point where I am so frustrated that I just want to push this 400k mile truck into the back forty and put it out of its misery like a lame horse.
Last night I backed up out of a parking space and when I put it in drive it wouldn't move. It seemed like the transmission was locked up. What happened? The truck was running fine. It's a 2002 Ford Ranger 3.0 with auto transmission. Getting it serviced? I'm tempted to go to a dealer. What the problem is? Repair costs? The fluid looks good - no burning smell.
View 5 RepliesI'm having an issue with my 2005 f150 xlt. Its been happening for almost near a month and still cant locate the issue .
It has a vibration at 75km throughout the whole truck. Ive tried multiple things done to it by a mechanic, such as having the tires balanced and the ujoints replaced. The problem still persisted and after attempting to test out to see if press/releasing the parking break (my mechani suggested trying that out), my driveshaft fell off.
Apparently the center bearing snapped and cant simply be replaced on the 05's. So i had to get a new driveshaft installed (used, both the 3 mechanics I've gone to say its in good condition).
Even after replacing the driveshaft the issue persists - however it seems a bit softer than it was (I am guessing the old driveshaft was worn from the vibration causing it to be worse). After that I took it to another shop to see if they could locate the issue. They did a driveline inspection and engine inspection too see if a misfire could be the cause.
Again, nothing was found. The only thing they were able to find was that the issue only happens under load and slightly occurs at 40 and 100km as well (although alot softer then the one at 75) and they say they cant find anything physically and it was a mystery to them.