Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Truck Froze Solid While Going Down The Highway - Blown Motor Replacement?
May 29, 2013
I am looking for info regarding motor swap. I blew the motor in my truck a couple weeks ago (5.4L Triton). She froze solid going down the HWY pulling my boat. I purchased a motor from a wrecking yard with~ 70k miles on it. I decided to do the swap myself and have run into a dilemma. In order to un-mate the trans from the motor the torque converter nuts need to be removed. There is an access port where you access the nuts one at a time. You must roll the engine over to bring each nut into view. This is where I am stuck. The motor is seized solid and will not turn over by hand even with a socket and a cheater bar on the main crank pulley. Do I need to remove the oil pan and/or the heads to figure out how it's stuck (pretty sure it ate a valve)?
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I'm guessing that the washer nozzles on the rear wiper arm froze solid. When the washer was turned on the pressure build up made a hose fitting pop off. What I heard, then saw, was blue washer fluid pouring onto the cargo area rug.
I removed the ~3' plastic trim under the lift gate and the rearmost dome light. You can see the cutout over my pinky & ring fingers. I also removed the r/s trim panel, but think I could have left it in place.
Plugged it back together with some zip ties to strengthen all of the connections. So far, all good
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I'm looking for a replacement motor for a 5.4 08 vin v. Do the 9-10 motor with the same vin code v. I know intake is different but the heads are the same.
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My 2007 F150's turn signals and hazard lights quit working. I checked the fuse and it was blown. Once I pulled the old fuse out the truck wouldn't start at all. What happened?
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2006' screw, 5.4L, 116K miles ... The truck looses power at highway speeds to the point that I need to pull off of the road. When this happens the check engine light is on and the truck is still running but will not accelerate, is it possible the computer is going into limp mode and if so what would cause this?
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I have a 2004 Lariat 4x4 with a no start condition. I had lights, but it wouldn't crank. I then discovered that it would not shift out of park. Turns out that it had a blown fuse. I did not have any of that type (the funky square 20a fuses) so I pulled the heated seats fuse (30a) and threw it in there, tried to start it and blew it right away. Is there a common short to look for on these? I believe that the guy that owned it before me had a satellite radio in it, and could it be a bare wire from that setup possibly blowing the fuse?Just trying to get a head start on tracking down the short.
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Do the tensioners have an O-ring where they mount to the block? I read a lot about blown tensioner seals...are people talking about the block to tensioner seal or the internal seal between tensioner body and plunger?
Also of course it makes sense to check oil pressure first with real gauge, but if the tensioner seals are toast, then one doesn't really get a good reading until they are replaced.
My dad has an 04 with 90k miles..throwing cam timing codes and you can hear the timing chains stupid noisy at idle. This just happened rather abruptly. Not like the engine oil pressure has been slowly going down due to wear, but like a tensioner seal has finally let go or possibly a guide.
I am thinking about checking the oil pressure before buying the timing components but then realized one truly doesn't know if the low oil pressure is due to blown seal or increased tolerances.
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2004 F-150 XLT, 3rd brake light bulb has blown and the bulb holder is brittle and the clip that holds the bulb in the holder on each side have broken off. Is there a way I can replace the holder itself or do I have to buy a whole new 3rd brake light wire harness?
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This is very weird. A strange noise occurs intermittently. It sort of sounds like a pulley slipping on a steel shaft briefly followed by a brief rattling noise and may or may not blow out fuse number 14 (A/C Pressure switch, backup lamp and daytime running lights, redundant speed control heated pcv, ABS, Reverse park aid, EC Mirror), then the brake light and the ABS light is displayed and the cruise control quits working. It does not ALWAYS blow out the fuse as I discovered yesterday.
The first time it happened (about three months ago) I was doing 75 when it happened and was unable to figure out what it was. Yesterday it happened and I new it was fuse number 14. I replaced the fuse and it happened again within 3 minutes. It may be when I turn the wheel to the left. The first time it happened I was changing lanes, yesterday when it happened I was on a ramp turning to the left. In the driveway it happened as a backed up and turned the wheel to the left. I cannot identify where the noise comes from. After the noise and the blown fuse the truck runs just fine and I can continue to drive.
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04 f350 drw 2x4 ... I know this is a weird question, but i put 4 new tires on the rear of my truck and developed what i can describe as "loose body" symptoms. Most noticeable in going down the highway it feels like the rear of the truck sways and its hard to control and keep straight at times. Check tire pressures n front and rear suspension for broken springs or loose joints. Nothing looks broken or out of place. Prior to replacement truck drove straight n all was good. Also noticed steering wheel is now off center.
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My 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 (139,XXX miles) V6 3.0, recently quit on me while driving on the highway. It will no longer start. I spoke to a mechanic and he informed me to fill the radiator (which was empty) and attempt to start the truck with the radiator cap off. He said that if radiator fluid gushed out then the engine is blown. Is this necessarily the only cause, that my engine is in fact blown.
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I am struggling with it, and need to get it done - by myself, as I can't afford a service job. I am handy, and comfortable doing it, But I am confused about how to get into the blower housing.
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I'm looking to purchase an 04 f150 but this issue has been bugging me. What are the odds of the can phaser failing and destroying the 5.4 3v motor? I'd be really unhappy if I bought a truck only to have a pile of parts a few thousand miles down the road. I'm seriously considering just looking for a low mileage 01-03.
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I was driving my truck and smelled a bit of burning oil pulled over to see what it was when I stopped the truck died and said check gauges everything looked fine but I noticed that it had puked oil on top of the motor around the number 1&2 coil packs and also 5&6 coil packs.. 2005 f150 5.4 ...
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06' 5.4 screw 100K... At 55mph my truck just stopped running, I pulled over to the side of the road and after two trys the truck restarted but ran rough. Auto Zone pulled a code that said replace the throttle position sensor, I did and the same thing happened again two weeks later just as before.
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Trying TSB 05-13-1 on f150 ? Mine is a 2004 xlt 4x4 and it shakes and vib really bad from 55 to 60 mph ,had tires balanced 3 different times brakes replaced and rotors turned ...
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My 2004 f 150 has only 60 k on it and I have chased these micro-shimies since the truck was new! First there was a giant recall on the 2004 design of the rotors and calipers. I have since changed all that again..... This is now the third set of brakes.....
New last winter I put on 4 KUMO tires......and have had them rebalanced twice ( bad sign of quality in my opinion ).
Now 1 strut leaks. I am shopping i think LEAWOOD brand on rockauto parts is that a good quality? How about changing 1 strut? Is that silly at 60 k or should I man up and do both? Darn thing shakes at interstate speeds all the time...
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I need walked through the take down to replace the head gasket on an 05 mountaineer with a 4.0. I've never worked on one of these so I don't even know. I havent even seen the engine to know where to start.
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I have an 04 F150 Lariat with the 5.4. I get alot of noise out of the top of the motor. I hear lots of stories of sludge issues, is that the problem or do I need to have the motor gone through? the knock is not horrible but when the motor is warm the noise is pretty apparent!
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I need to replace the motor mounts on my truck. Is there any special tools or tricks I will need before I get half way into it and find myself in a bind? Oh yeah it's a 5.4L
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So, after putting new tires on my truck about 2 years, I noticed a slight shake when I drove at about 90kph. I let it go for quite some time thinking it was just a balance issue.
Well this weekend I spent 7 hours washing, waxing, and polishing my truck. It was worth. The rims reflect the moonlight now. It's amazing. During this washing, I scrubbed in behind the spokes of the rims. I found a big chunk of mud. Well surprise surprise, my shake at 90kph went away... or so I thought.
I no longer have the shake when driving at 90 or accelerating through 90kph like I used to. Now I have the shake when I let off the gas at 100 and drop to 80kph. It shakes at 95 through 90, and then goes away.
What is causing this? The parking brake is never used, and is showing no signs of engaging while driving. Is this a driveshaft issue?
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