I have a 2004 fx4 with a 5.4L. i have an edge performance programer and these are the codes that are coming up....
1) P0121
2) P2104
3)P2106
4)P2111
5)P2135
I have cleared these codes and reset the main computer the truck barely starts and will not accelerate...could the spark plugs be an issue...
2008 F150 5.4L .. The truck lost all power the other day driving and barely made it to work. On the ride home it was still running horribly, like it just fell on its face. the check engine light came on. Went to autozone and put HEAT in the gas tank cuz the night before it was at quarter tank and temp went from warm to freezing(thought maybe condensation in tank).. Truck ran a lot better( not perfect). Drove around that day and it was fine. Pulled down the driveway and CE light shut off. Ran the code anyways and it was P0012..
Talked to a few mechanics and they said try replacing the Camshaft position sensors..did so and it ran worse. the truck hardly would idle or rev and shook violently..i shut it down right away. Then it threw 9 codes..Cam shaft position- over retarded timing bank 1(P0012), misfire cyl2, misfire cyl3, misfire cyl 4, random misfire, cam sensor bank 1, three of them were repeated codes..
I replaced the sensors back to stock and cleared the codes. the truck is running like it was in the beginning of the problem..No vilant shaking but falling right on its face at idle and any rpm..not drivable. Would rather do the work myself. very capable except for replacing camshaft phasers which i have heard could be the issue..Could it by the VCT seliniod, EGR valve, plugs, wires...Did just change the oil a week ago and cleaned and reoiled air filter.
Well I have had a completely dependable truck until today. I was driving my truck on the way home, its an FX4 with only 33K miles on it that i have had since new. I went to accelerate to pass some cyclists (not a hard acceleration) and the vehicle cut off seemed like it kind of bucked a little as if it was shifting gears hard. I got a service light but what was weird was the gauges worked and the RPM still showed 1000. I did have power still though as the radio was on. The only thing that is currently wrong with the vehicle is the odometer gauge is out and needs to be replaced.
Anyway I shifted to neutral and restarted on the fly and than shifted back into drive and it drove the rest of the way home fine. After i got it to my neighborhood i ran it hard and it did not cut off again. I do not want this vehicle to cut out of me in town in the middle of traffic or while i am driving my 18 month old around and i get disabled with her in the truck. Slug of water maybe? I filled up on monday and still have around 3/4 of a tank of gas. Maybe short because of the gauge issue getting worse? I have the crazy door locks and beeps but nothing else has occurred. 05 F150 FX4 5.4 ....
When I put truck in 4wd rear end starts locking up. Take out of 4wd its fine. Just put 2 quarts of fluid. They didn't have the 75-140 so I put in 85-140 was that bad. Had rear rebuilt a year ago. Mechanic said he had to put a different gear assembly because ford didn't make the original any more. Ever since this was done rear just never seemed right. Now in 4wd if I go straight it's fine but as soon as I make a turn rear locks up almost coming to a grinding stop.
View 9 RepliesRead a few references but nothing seems the same as what I have... 2001 Ford F150 Larite 5.4L 4 x 4
When slowing down, at speeds of 3 to 4 miles per hours truck starts to shutter. It is not an engine issue, nor a brake as it will occur with brakes on or not applied. Engine is running smooth, seems more mechanical that fuel or brake related. Shutter is not slight either.
Both CV axles, hubs, rotors and upper and lower A Frames have been replaced. Shutter was happening prior to the replacement, they were replaced as preventive maintenance. Shutter is profound enough to shake the mirrors. What it can be.
When I accelerate from a dead stop I have this squeaking that comes from the back of the truck that goes away after a few seconds. Then when I get up to about 50mph I have this really annoying vibration. Its not a real heavy vibration but it is there. I am thinking it could be the universal joints, am I way off here or what?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.
I took it to the dealer and they blamed the trailer. I told them that I have pulled two different trailers and it did it with both. Then he said that the trailer was not heavy enough to weigh down the springs. So now I not suppose to tow an empty trailer? Also my father in law has pulled the trailer with his Z71 with no shake and the other belongs to a neighbor with a 98 F150 with no shake. The vibration only starts above 45mph. Any clue as to what could be causing this?
View 14 RepliesI just bought a 2006 F150 with the 5.4 triton motor. Under acceleration at around 40-45, the vehicle starts to skip and shudder.
Based on what I read online and the fact that I pulled a code for a #1 cyl misfire, I assumed that i just need to change the plugs, and I am trying to scheduule that now.
I just read another post about the TC not locking up due to needing the filter and fluid changed and a way to fix that would be to take OD off and see if it still does it.
When I drive with the od off, it does not do it but i am now confused since i got the one code for a misfire.
I have a new to me 2005 F150 with 86,000 miles. When I am driving through town at a low acceleration or a constant speed at between 40 - 50 mph the truck starts to sputter and kick a bit. When I give it some gas the problem goes away. This gets worse when I pull my bass boat, and starts at around 30 mph. When I hook it up to a reader I get a P0316 code. Only code I get.
Also when I am driving through my neighborhood between 20 - 30 mph I get a noise that sounds like there is a plastic bag stuck under the truck. I have checked under the truck to see if the firewall is loose anywhere, but could not find anything. Other than those two issues the truck runs great. What these problems could be?
This is concerning my little brothers truck. It is a 2008 4.2 liter with around 55,000 miles on it.
He drove it to work today, and called me this afternoon saying that the truck starts then dies a few seconds later, and the battery light illuminates. He and a coworker checked the battery and connections....cleaned off corrosion on terminals, battery reads 12.xx volts without a load on it, it is the original though.
As of right now he is changing the fuel filter which hasn't been done yet. I also know of issues with the fuel pump driver module. I remember checking the one on my 2005 back when I owned it. As I recall it causes a no start condition, but would it cause a start then stop condition like this? He will check this when he is done with the filter.
Anything else that we can check in a parking lot to try and at least get it home?
I have a 2008 with 81000 miles and new tires. On clean dry roads when I hit 60 mph the traction control warning light comes on and car will barely accelerate. Slow down a couple mph and car runs fine. What is wrong?
View 5 RepliesMy 2005 FX4 is throwing the codes PO722 and PO720. When it threw these codes it barely pulls in reverse. Are the codes the cause of the reverse problem?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2008 that I bought brand new, it now has about 60,000 miles on it and the air conditioning is not cutting it in the Chicago summer. Would it now be time to have it recharged? Is there modification to make it more powerful?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2003 F250 with the 5.4 and I believe I am having a fuel delivery issue. I took out yesterday and stopped to get a drink at the gas station, came back out and the truck wouldn't start long enough to idle. It would start, barely bounce off zero rpms and die out. I checked the fuel interia switch and it was down. I tried turning the key back and forth thinking it might reset the fuel pump or something and that didnt work. I get the truck towed home and couldn't get it to start last night. I go out this morning and it starts, come home from work and now it won't. This happened about 2 years ago and I never did anything about it, but it took 2 years for it to happen again.
View 2 RepliesMY 2000 Ford F150 4.2L v6 is running cold. I bought it this summer and it ran a hair above the cold line on the temp gauge. Now that it is cooling off it doesn't come off the cold line. I have drove it for an hour and it never move. The heat is barely warm. I thought it may have been a stuck open thermostat so I changed it out with a 195 and it did not work. I can let the truck run parked for 15 minutes and still be able to grab the hose leading down to the thermo. What is wrong? The guy I bought it from used it to pull a small boat. He said it started running hot when he would pull with it so he had a new radiator, thermo and clutch fan installed. Then he said the truck ran on the colder side. Now the thing just runs plain cold!
View 1 RepliesSo my wife was driving my EX today... she heard a noise and then the truck would barely drive. I went and checked it and i lost the exhaust pipe between cat and muffler (right below the second row) I also found 4 bared wires that had been ripped apart.
Exhaust broke loose and wrapped around drive shaft and ripped the sensor wires apart and threw the pipe somewhere? So I am assuming that there was an oxygen sensor located on that portion of exhaust that is now lost.
I thought no big deal I will just drive to a muffler shop and get it fixed, but the Ex would barely move. So i guess i will have to tow it, how I can get the truck to run missing the pipe and sensor.
My questions are:
Is that an oxygen sensor that goes into the exhaust pipe?
If so, can i just buy the sensor and pigtail, wire it and then drive to get exhaust fixed?
Is there a way for me to drive it without wiring in a new sensor instead of paying for a tow?
2004 6.8L limited....
I have a 2001 Ford F150 Lariat. It has the 5.4L Triton motor. I was having starting problems as such the truck would crank and not start or crank, start and barely idle and stall within 5 seconds. It was NOT tripping any lights. I was told it was a possible fuel issue. I have since changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, as well as the hoses in the rear connected to the tank. Truck started, ran great, even seemed to have more power. Ran great for about a week. I was on my way out yesterday about 2 miles from home when the truck just stalled out on me. It is now having the same issues it was having before I changed the pump, filter, etc. What the issue may be? Clogged line? Fuel injector? If it is an injector how can I tell which one?
View 8 RepliesSo from what I have gathered online, it is an injector(s) issue. I've only had it happen to me twice at that speed but when I came to a stop afterward, my truck was barely idling.
I'm not sure if my sct programmer is able to show injector codes but it will show gp codes. I guess my question is are failing injectors that intermittent typically? Also, much luck with Rev X clearing that issue up?
I have a 2000 F150 4WD 5.4 running Extremely rich to bank one. The O2 sensors for bank 1 are reading lean(0-50 mV) Bank two is completely unaffected. New plugs in Bank one, 3 new coils in bank one, all pvc lines checked with good vacuum. Previous codes : P0171, P0301-3. The Truck will barely move. Would a small leak up stream of the O2 sensors cause this?
View 10 RepliesSo I have had this occasional hiccup that has gotten more frequent. I figured since our weather has been extra cold (lows about 15 F, around 22 F in the morning), that the temperature had been contributing to the issue. My truck would hiccup and burp out some white smoke. At first it didn't throw a check engine or any codes. As of recently I would get a check engine light, but torque pro could not get any codes, they would be cleared when I cycled the key. Anyways, I finally got some codes yesterday because it happened again. The codes where P0603 and P0344.
So I ordered 2 new CPS from Riffraff yesterday (hoping that they will be here today so I can install one). Fast forward to this morning and i get the hiccup again except worse. Now my truck would barely reach 20mph and it constantly bucked. I limped my way to work (only 4 miles) and of course I got a check engine light but there were no codes that I could retrieve with Torque Pro again. I had read on another thread that the guy had an issue with a wire in the harness near the 42pin connector for the IDM. He replaced his CPS taped up the wire and it went away.
I'm at work and now I'm paranoid that I wont be able to make it home. Is there anything temporary I can do for the CPS, like maybe disconnect it and spray it with some contact cleaner, until I can replace it? I'm going to trace the wire harness to make sure there aren't any bare wires. I forgot to mention that the local stealership replaced the CPS for free due to recall less than 3000 miles ago...