E brakes were sticking so I took off wheels, rotors, calipers, and cleaned the E Brake caliper and lubed it. Started driving and E brakes are still sticking? What gives? Could the cable be hung up? Wonder if I should replace the E brake cables.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 it was studdering on the highway under light load, i changed the plugs and coils it worked great for a day now working worse and giving a misfire #7, so i swapped the injectors around still misfire #7.
View 8 RepliesI've done some research on the shaking that is occurring on my truck an it's a possibility that it's the e brake seizing up. I've read where everyone has taken it to the dealer to get it fixed ....
View 7 RepliesI have a 2006 F150 4x4 5.4. For a long time it idled poorly and would take 2 trys to start. Today it started shuddering and the engine light came on. The engine light went off but it still runs rough and smells of gas from the exhaust. It is not very drivable and I can't afford to take it in. I have lots of mechanical experience but not with this electronic junk and need diagnosing the problem. I have a code tester and this is what it said.
P0301 Cyl 1 Miss
P0304 Cyl 4 Miss
P0300 Random Multiple Misfire Detected
P2196 O2 Sensor Signal
Biased/ Stuck Rich
Bank 1 Sensor 1
2008 5.4L ...I started a thread before concerning my tranny shuddering while in OD. It did it before and after a tranny rebuild. That's when I learned of the common problem of a bad coil pack not allowing trans to lock out into OD. Yesterday I took the truck to a shop to have it scanned. I was hoping to find out which cylinder is the problem. No fault codes were found. Now the mechanic thinks its the tranny, and the tranny guy(who has had the truck twice) says its a coil pack. I can change it if I can figure out which one it is. Do I have anymore options left to find the bad coil pack, or am I left with changing them all.
View 2 RepliesMy boss drives an '08 F-150 with a 5.4. The other week he had a horrid shuddering issue, misfire, and some known transmission issues so he took it to a shop. Supposedly the heads were pulled, heli-coiled, #7 coil was replaced, new plugs, trans rebuilt...a whole laundry list of stuff was done. He comes to me with complaints of a shudder in OD in low RPM primarily and a flashing check engine light with a #7 misfire code. I popped the hood to find no coil had been replaced (mechanics around here are REAL sketchy) so I told him to change up a new coil and I would throw it on to see if that fixes the issue.
Other than that, smooth idle and decent power with no shuddering except once in a while just coming into OD in low RPM...so around 40~ish and not throttling it hard. If he gets into it and blasts through the gears it has no shudder. I said the miss could be the whole issue, starting with the plugs and known misfire coil (#7) would be a good place to start.
A quick inspection in ~10 degree snow showed me the heads do not look like they were removed. The mechanic steam cleaned the engine, so looking for smudgy prints won't work. I know on older Fords the head gaskets stick out a little past the heads...do they on these too? He is questioning if the engine was even touched, and rightfully so in my opinion. Pulling the plugs would be the next step, but I need heat and tools for that.
I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent, stick shift. I replaced the rear brake shoes and the wheel cylinder on the driver's side and bled it after, and now my e-brake doesn't have any tension in the handle and the brake light doesn't come on when you pull it up. The brake does set enough, when you pull the handle up, to stop the car from moving, but I think on a steep incline it would probably roll. How to fix it?
View 5 RepliesOver the past few months I've noticed that my truck has a very intermittent shudder under mild acceleration. If I accelerated more during the shudder it seemed to disappear until I let off the peddle a little. When it happens the truck doesn't seem to be lacking power and the engine throws no codes. It happened again today right as I had stopped at a red light. I noticed that it was shuddering at idle too. I shut the truck off at the intersection and the shudder was gone once restarted. What it may be?
View 5 Replies2006 F150, 4.6 V8 ... My truck was running fine until one morning I was sitting in the truck giving it my customary 30 second morning warm-up and it starting running very rough and quickly threw Check Engine LED.
I hooked up my laptop and got the following error codes: (To assist with future searches, the error codes are P0302, P0303, and P0353)
It seemed to drive fairly well, but low RPM torque causes major shuddering, so I try to keep the revs up to avoid damaging other components. The first step was to replace the spark plugs. They looked to be original and I'm at 140K on the truck, so it's probably time.
I went with Bosch Platinum as the factory plugs were platinum. When replacing the plugs, I moved the coil pack from cylinder 2 to cylinder 3 to determine if the problem would move. After the plug swap, the engine did run noticeably smoother (so the plugs worked overall), but still had the low rpm shudders and the same error codes (after clearing them).
Unfortunately, the error codes still indicate cylinder 2. I guess a misfire could be related to the fuel injector as well, not firing at the right time or not a complete spray, but what else could cause this?
My new to me 04 4.6 shuddered and misfired really bad last week, got couple misfire codes. I changed plugs which were really bad, like burnt out to .080, got a HEI ignition tester and got a healthy spark from all the coil packs. Drove it today and ran much better but still would shudder under acceleration when cold, wasn't as bad when warmed up but still noticeable. I thought if I got a spark with the tester that means the coil is ok? or is that not the last word in coil health. Or should I look somewhere else like injectors ? Haven't got any codes since plug change.
View 1 RepliesHave a trusty 05 stx 4.6 4x4 automatic 44,000 orig. miles/owner ext cab pick up. Just lately I thought I picked up at tree branch or something make a noise very similar to pulling a hung up branch or something.. Stopped, looked under truck (everywhere) no dice! Then did some research.. Noise went away when not giving it gas or gliding in nuetral just when light or heavy accelerating! Where do I begin??
View 7 RepliesMy sons 98 F150 4x4. First off he had a head light go out and replaced the bulb. Then a day or so later his tail lights would not go out after he turned the truck off. I had him to replace the pressure switch(I think that's what it is called ) anyways, that didn't work. So now he takes out the fuse every time he turns off the truck, just so the lights will go out. But, when he puts the brake fuse back in, the brakes work fine, but his windows will not roll down. I am totally confused with what is going on.
View 1 RepliesThis is concerning my little brothers truck. It is a 2008 4.2 liter with around 55,000 miles on it.
He drove it to work today, and called me this afternoon saying that the truck starts then dies a few seconds later, and the battery light illuminates. He and a coworker checked the battery and connections....cleaned off corrosion on terminals, battery reads 12.xx volts without a load on it, it is the original though.
As of right now he is changing the fuel filter which hasn't been done yet. I also know of issues with the fuel pump driver module. I remember checking the one on my 2005 back when I owned it. As I recall it causes a no start condition, but would it cause a start then stop condition like this? He will check this when he is done with the filter.
Anything else that we can check in a parking lot to try and at least get it home?
I recently had my alternator and battery replaced due to my truck dying out randomly on me, tested the alternator and failed, replaced battery, and still got the same results, battery gauge seems to drop quickly, what could be going on, I have been told to replace the fusible link that goes from the battery to the alternator....
View 1 RepliesI have a new to me 2005 F150 SuperCab Lariat 4x4 with 155,000 miles on it. About a week ago I replaced the from passenger hub assembly and half shaft (torn boot). When doing that, I noticed that the IWE actuator was not working right (would not compress evenly). When taking that off, there was a bunch of rust that came out of the vacuum line ports. It started moving freely after cleaning all of that out that I could (I will be replacing it soon). I assembled everything back together and all seemed OK mechanically.
I also scanned the truck and saw the code for a bad IWE solenoid so that is being replaced tonight. I also have not checked the drivers side yet.
So...now that I have done all of that, the truck started occasionally bucking/shuddering when I slow down from highway speed to about 30mph and lightly accelerate again. It does not do it every time though. There is no grinding/whining noises either. Could this be caused by the IWE system somehow? Maybe slowing losing vacuum and having one engage and the other disengaged?
I have a 2000 Ranger 2.5l, 4 cyl. Not long after the truck was purchased, there was a recall for the EGR valve, we took it in had that replaced, no issues. Well 2 years ago we had the P0401 code pop up, we replaced the DPFE and it seemed to fix things. Well a couple of weeks ago the code popped up again, we erased it and it came back a week or 2 later, along with the truck shuddering when the engine is cold. My husband said once the engine warms up the shuddering goes away. To make it more complicated it doesn't always shudder like that, seems to be intermittent. What could cause this problem? Does it sound like the DPFE again? Or something else we are missing?
View 5 RepliesI’m facing what might be a major issue with my 2007 Prius, 80k miles, very well cared for with no major issues or accidents. The problem started a few days ago, when I drove my car for the first time in a week, so it had been sitting for awhile. This was after a month-long cold spell in which temps were often close to 0, with lots of snow, and I keep my car outside, which means many days of scraping ice and snow off the car with it running (along with the defroster and heat). I only work part-time, and the car often sits for a few days or longer at a time without being driven.
The problem is this: I was on my way to work a few miles away and was stopped at a red light, and the car all of a sudden “shuddered” rather violently, with what sounded like the engine revving up, then switching back to silent mode, then revving up again, and so on. It freaked me out, but the light turned green and the car drove normally to my destination. Then, on my way home an hour later, a bunch of warning lights showed up: master warning, VSC, check engine, brake system, as well as hybrid system light on the center screen (car with ! through it). I pulled over, turned off the car, waited a bit, turned it back on, all the same lights were on. Drove it home with no problems. Turned it on the next day, same lights.
I decided to drive the car around for a bit to try and charge up the battery, in case that was the issue after all the cold weather and sitting around not being driven regularly. After driving it around, turning it off, then turning it back on, the brake system and VSC lights disappeared, but the rest remained. I continued driving the car for another day, and it did that same strong shuddering thing with weird engine noises while at one red light, but drove normally otherwise.
I then researched a bit more and found out how to check the health of the battery myself by holding down the display button, turning lights on and off three times, etc. The three voltage readings were all within the proper range. When I turned the car back on after completing the battery check, all of the warning lights were gone. I figured the issue had been the battery after all and that driving the car around had brought it back up to normal voltage, with the battery check resetting the system. BUT today the car did the same strong shuddering with weird engine noises while stopped at a red light. I continued driving and made it home just fine, without the issue occurring again, but this is the third time it’s done this in a week, and I’m a little freaked out by it.
Two notes:
*A little over a year ago I replaced the original battery (which died) with an Optima yellow top battery made for the Prius.
*Several weeks ago, after a major snow/ice storm, I was driving home from work when I went over either a deep pothole or hard ice formation, and the impact was really loud and scary—I actually screamed. But the car continued driving normally all the way home, and I examined the wheel area and surrounding parts with a flashlight and nothing seemed out of place. I drove the car a bunch of times in the following weeks with no issues, so this incident is probably unrelated to the problem I’m experiencing now, but I though it worthwhile to mention.
I am having a problem with my MK4 Jetta. The problem is that the light that says "Brake" on the dash is on and it is very dimly lit when the ebrake is down/ disengaged. But when I pull it up, it is lit up as much as it should. Also most of the time it will get even more dim if you tap the brake pedal or the clutch. My Jetta is scheduled to go get inspected in a few days and I need to fix this or it wont pass. I included a video of what it's doing so click on it and maybe y'all will be able to tell me what's wrong with it. [URL] ....
View 6 RepliesSo I've been finding myself lately having to press the ebrake pedal pretty deep when parking on a non leveled surface. Went to the dealer and they said this car has self adjusting parking brake........ Is this true? Do I have to suck it up? If no, how do I adjust either the pedal or the parking brake bands?
View 2 RepliesMy teenage son bought a 2004 Solara. While cleaning it out, he pulled the ebake handle, which was badly rusted and got stuck in the locked position. He took apart the wheel, stripped some bolts, and had to take the calipers to a local shop to have the bolts removed. While there, he asked the shop if he could just cut the ebrake cables and remove the inner shoe assemblies. They said yes since it is a separate system from the disc brakes. So he removed the shoes and cut the cables to both rear wheels. But after replacing the calipers, and bleeding them, the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor. I came over and bled them myself, but the pedal still goes to the floor. I don't see how, but is it possible the ebrake system is interconnected to the regular brakes and causing this problem? What could be causing this? He said it was working perfectly fine before he had the ebrake issue.
View 5 RepliesI just want to ask and let ppl know if they have had this problem on there camry. This is the 4 time its had come on like this the ABS e brake and Skid light all three came on while i was parked and driving, everything I had to pull over to the side and turn off my car and restart it and the lights are gone.
View 14 Replies