Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Transmission Line Removal From Radiator
Jan 29, 2010
How do you remove the transmission lines from the radiator. I have to replace the radiator and don't want to mess up the lines.
View 1 RepliesHow do you remove the transmission lines from the radiator. I have to replace the radiator and don't want to mess up the lines.
View 1 RepliesI've a 2000 Chevy Monte Carol, 110K miles, 3.4L. How to remove the transmission cooler line that connects to the radiator. Can't seem to break the bolt loose that screws into the radiator. Not sure whether this is a quick connect fitting or not! it definitely doesn't seems like it. Also having problems removing the fan shroud. It doesn't seem to want to come out. Should this be remove prior to removing the cooler line?
View 12 RepliesSo this is my major problem, leaving for a camping trip tomorrow afternoon. It's just 15 miles away, easy flat drive. What has happened is the trans line coming out of the bottom of radiator is leaking next to the fitting about an 1/8 ' out, So I can't cut off and splice in hose for the trip. I worked on it for about an hour, rusted on, tried some heat and now have some PB Blast on it and all I am doing is starting to round off the head of fitting. Is there any way to bypass this just to get the camper to campground and then get to a shop while we are gone Don't care if I have to splice and cut, will get new lines later.
2004 f250SD 5.4 83000miles
2004 4.6 V8 Trition ,two wheel drive, STX Pickup. By removing the bottom radiator hose, will that allow all engine coolant to be drained from engine? If not, about how much coolant will remain in the engine in terms of quarts or percentage of total vehicle coolant capacity?
View 1 RepliesOK, so I ordered in the new lines and have them. BUT my problem is snaking the factory transmission line out from under the truck. I have pictures to show my struggles.
How do I pull this:
Out of here???
Towards the front of the motor
Front passenger side cab corner
Replacing these lines? I don't care about breaking the old one, but I still need to find a way to install the new one.
I have replaced both the transmission lines except the one that connects the two. It is the one near the top of the transmission that is about a foot long and goes from the fitting of the one transmission line to the other fitting for the other line. My questions is how do I remove it? It seems to be permanently affixed to the fittings, so those it come attached to new fittings?
View 2 RepliesThe transmission line running under the radiator has started to leak. I took a piece of rubber trans. hose and buy passed the cooler. How much does the cooler support the trans. temperature. I don't tow with the truck. And for the most part drive it around 14 to 20 miles one way to work. Is this something I need to replace now or after the temperature hits the 80s.
View 5 RepliesMy transmission cooling line is leaking. It leaks where it connects to the radiator. Im not sure how I go about removing the connection from the radiator. It is tough to tell from the rust on the connection weather or not I can use a wrench on it. I have read here that there are cooling lines in this part of the radiator for the transmission. Is it serviceable or do I need a new radiator. I dont want to touch it until I know what I'm looking at.
05 F250 5.4L 4x4
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2008 6.4L F250 Crew. I just recently had a new radiator installed while the cab was off for an oil cooler change. I noticed that my lower front bushings are gone and need to be replaced.
I thought it would be an easy, pull the bolts drop the lower bushing and reinstall. Looks like they don't come out so easily. Is there a trick to getting the lower mounts/bushings separated from the uppers?
A friend just had a transmission line pull out of his radiator and blow fluid all over everything.
How do these lines work? Are the kind of like the fuel lines that just plug in and are held in my a retainer clip?
Does the whole radiator have to be changed to fix it or can the "fitting" be turned out of the radiator and replaced?
Looking at the line that is still in the radiator, the fitting looks like a large hex nut at the radiator with a thick rubber washer on the outside.
Had a small leak on show up in my transmission cooler line at the radiator connection. After replacing the o-ring, which was pinched, I had lost some fluid up to about 3-4 oz. I had stopped by the local VW dealer and picked up a liter of ATF fluid and noticed the colors of the fluid differed from what drained out from the cooler line. Fluid that drained out was a cloudy darker green/grey and the new ATF fluid had a clear yellowish tint. Is this vehicle equipped with a closed loop cooling system or does it use the actual ATF fluid as the cooling medium?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 Ford F250 V-10 Superduty and recently I had a transmission cooler line start to leak. I ordered replacement lines and the tool for the quick disconnect. The line that's leaking is from the radiator to the quick disconnect. I was able to replace the one line, however the second line (problem area) has been a nightmare. The line cracked right at the quick disconnect fitting.
The hard line is tight in the fitting and corroded. broke the tool trying to remove from disconnect. The line is flush with the quick disconnect. How to get that out of the fitting? or another method of fix? Its a hard 1/2 line going into connect crimped to rubber line going to transmission.
2005 f150 4.6l up on jack stands right now with the oil drained and a few bolts out of the oil pan. It looks like I have to take the cross section out to get this to even move but I don't know if that's going to be enough. I'm sort of running trial by error here but hoping I don't do something I cant put back together. I'm assuming ill be okay to take the cross section out but I don't know if I need to move the differential to get it out. My oil pan gasket is leaking and I'm trying to replace it.
View 4 RepliesIs it hard to remove the headlamp assembly. I am only asking because i am considering purchasing smoked/blackened headlamps and tailights on ebay.
View 14 RepliesWhats the process on removing the projector hid lightbulb that has burned out its a 6000K?
View 6 Replies I plan to attempt my first ever brake job on a 2008 Ford F-150 XL 4.2L V6 RWD with 50K miles on it.
I've done a lot of reading in order to prepare and from what I can gather it seems best to take off the brake rotor altogether in order to clean off the rust build-up and apply some nickel anti-seize compound in between the hub and rotor. I live in a cold climate and we use quite a bit of salt on the roads here so I thought while I'm changing the pads I might as well clean the rotors of all rust build up while I got the calipers off.
My only problem is that I only have a 265 foot pound torque wrench and the spindle nut that holds my rotors on calls for 295 ft. pounds torque. Also the Haynes manual says that you should buy a new spindle nut ($20 part) and cotter pin. I have neither.
So...I am wondering whether I should forestall taking off the rotor and just do some surface clean-up of the rotor with some Evapo-Rust Rust Remover then blast it with some Brakleen and call it good. I plan to use some caliper grease of course and a dab of nickel anti-seize compound on the backsides of the new brake pads. Is this bad practice, will I regret this in 50K more miles when the wheel hub is completely married to a rotor? How likely is that do you think?
I'm trying to remove the upper control arm on a 2004 F-150 2WD. I took the wheel off, and it looks like I can't get the bolts off that attach to the frame off without taking out the shock and "coil over"? Is this the case, or is there another way to do this?
View 9 RepliesI want to remove my wiper cowl and paint it satin black to get rid of the ugly fade. Just want to know, is the cowl just held on by clips all the way around that you just pull up on and pop out?
View 14 RepliesSstripped threads using an impact to remove the plugs?
View 4 Replies156,000 miles, I've been pulling a 21ft bass boat in the summer for years with no issues. Now on hot days (over 78 degrees) it is over heating. Can't use AC and need to slow down to 60 mph in-order to cool her down. Never have flushed the radiator but I'm wondering if getting it flushed is a waste of time and if I should just proceed to replacing the radiator? For a couple of years now I can hear a roaring sound (like a jet engine) on really hot days, when I start out driving. Could this be a cooling fan? Seems like the power is restricted during these times. Really need to increase throttle to get going?
View 6 RepliesIm working on my buddies 2005 F150 FX4. In the midst of buttoning everything up and calling it a day I happen to see fluid dripping. The OEM steel brake line had been rubbing on the steering shaft and while doing the brakes, must of busted through all of the way.
I have been to Advance and Napa at least 4 times trying to match stuff up. Nothing works from either of them.
Called Ford and talked to a parts guy who lacked general automotive knowledge and finally had to pull up there diagram to show him the correct part. He told me that part is discontinued and cannot be ordered.
It is #2264 in this diagram.
2005 Ford F-150 Front Brake Hydraulic Hose | FordParts.com
I have the factory fittings and everything to make a new line. I cannot find tube that is 5.20mm or .20". Everything I find in a roll is either 3/16 or 6mm.
The fitting is a 12mmx1.00 on the ABS brain. The caliper hose appears to be a 3/8x24. A 10mmx1.00 which is standard metric 3/16 tube nut is to big for the OEM caliper hose. A standard 3/16 flare wont seat on the caliper hose.
So it seems like what Ford did here was.... a 12mmx1.00 on a 5.20mm tube to a 3/8x24 to a caliper hose that wont seat with out 5.20mm tube.