Well I am not sure if i have trans problem or not. If I put the trans in drive and go through the gears when the RPM's get to about 2000 the truck almost stops accelerating, until you give it much more gas, this happens in every gear. but If you push the button to take it out of overdrive and drive like that it doesn't do it.
View 1 RepliesJust finished putting a fresh 460 backed by a (1977) c6 in my '68 ranger and now I'm having (what I believe is) transmission problems. The truck will idle and rev properly in gear but as soon as I put it in drive or reverse the RPM's drop and it dies. I jacked the back end up and put it in both drive and reverse and the tire's spin, but if I try and apply the brake to stop them the truck will die. My suspicion is that the torque converter is locked up all the time. I have managed to get it in gear and give it gas and it'll drive and shift fine, until I come to a stop. My question, what would cause the converter to do this? It's the same transmission and converter that I pulled out a month ago and I never had any issues before...
View 4 RepliesSo I bought this 2007 used with 86K on the engine. After 2 days cats code went off and i had both replaced with brand new ones. Now my truck is making a rattling as i step on the gas at about 2500 rpms. Its sounds like metal in a can swirling around amd as i let off gas the sound stops. It happens often, also the other day in was pulling off and heard a grind for about 2 seconds then stopped never beard it again, it sounds like its coming from the rear passenger side. It sounds like a bearing. This is the noise.
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I have a 2004 f150 fx4. My truck starts to jerk around 50-55 mph at 1100 rpms and again at 80 mph.
View 3 RepliesOn my way into work this morning, my 06 with the 5.4 started running very rough/shaking at low rpms. I could kick it out of overdrive and it would smooth out and seemingly be fine at higher rpms.
This worked out for a couple of miles until the truck just died on me completely. The Edge is showing po351, 352, 353......358 codes. Ignition coil Primary/Secondary circuit fault on every cylinder.
I'm thinking its unlikely that every coil failed simultaneously....computer? When I try to start the truck, it will try to hit on a cylinder or two, but will not run.
Have a trusty 05 stx 4.6 4x4 automatic 44,000 orig. miles/owner ext cab pick up. Just lately I thought I picked up at tree branch or something make a noise very similar to pulling a hung up branch or something.. Stopped, looked under truck (everywhere) no dice! Then did some research.. Noise went away when not giving it gas or gliding in nuetral just when light or heavy accelerating! Where do I begin??
View 7 RepliesLong delay bringing new travel trailer home last week. Shift cable not placed properly in retainer during assembly (there is NO way it popped out) and it was resting on exhaust manifold. Evidently towing camper made enough heat to burn through the shielding and truck trans would not move out of drive.
The good news is that I could climb under (getting too old for that stuff!) and put it into gear/park by hand. But of course I didn't know that for the first 4 hours.
I'm the original owner of a 2008 Honda Fit Sport, Manual Transmission it has 134k miles original clutch. It feels like the transmission is slipping between 2,000 and 2,5000 RPM in 3rd,4th, and 5th gear. If I set it on cruise control with the RPM's between 2k~2.5k the car runs smooth and normal, but if I disengage the cruise control and accelerate, the transmission feels like it's slipping between 2k~2.5k RPM. Once it goes above 2,500 RPM the car accelerates normally.
So is this the transmission, the clutch or the engine? The car has been running fine and it suddenly started doing on Friday, my initial thought was that it needed a new clutch, however, the clutch is engaging fine and the feel that the transmission is slipping only occurs in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear between 2k ~ 2.5k RPM
If the transmission is bad, how much does it cost to repair?
Transmission won't go into drive until I give it gas and then hard shift between 1&2 then a little slipping when I get on it in higher speeds , fluid and filter brand new, threw a speed sensor so code I replaced with new but no change, don't know what to do and can't find out why speed sensor code went off changed but didn't fix? Can't drive truck!!!
View 3 RepliesTruck is 04 supercrew with 5.4 and 140,000 miles. I have the typical shutter when cruising 55 - 60 and just ease on the throttle to pass someone. I chalked that up to the torque converter unlocking, if I punch it instead of easing into it, it will not shutter. As of yesterday, it acts like the converter is going to full lock up almost immediately. It will bang when it shifts and rpm's drop to lock up range. A few times it has killed the engine when I shift into D. No codes at all, I removed the programmer and installed the stock tune, no change, unhooked battery, no change, fluid is good, and twice after leaving stop signs it worked perfect until the next stop. I believe that it is an electrical control problem.
View 9 RepliesI got a 2000 f250, 5.4l, I got a check engine light bout 2 weeks ago and didn't experience any driving issues. The code was p0171, just recently I've been experience troubles idling, if I let my truck idle for about 3 minutes it will want to shut off, also on acceleration the hole truck bumps, feels like I'm in an earthquake. Where I should start with this problem?
View 11 RepliesCar just stopped accelerating on highway. It starts again after about 10 minutes. Also the wheel gets stiff when it stops accelerating. What could be wrong?
View 3 RepliesI need diagnosing a problem on my 2002 Hyundai Accent LC. When I accelerate with the aircon on the engine stops accelerating at high RPM and when I accelerate from a stand still the engine hesitates and jerks! I don't understand what the problem may be coz it works perfectly after a cold start but after it warms it starts doing that.
View 3 RepliesMy truck does not go into reverse but thinks all positions of shifter are drive. I had some slippage and changed the filter and oil great for awhile then blame no reverse just forward I was told my torque converter was out I just don't know....
View 1 Replies2003 F250. 6 speed. 5.4 2v. 4x4. 165,000 miles
When purchased, there was a vacuum leak and truck ran like crap and PO drove it that way for a while. I fixed the vacuum leak, discovered a miss between 1,500 and 2,000 rpms in every gear while accelerating. No miss at idle.
The truck has:
- no CEL
- new Motorcraft spark plugs that were not dropped, bumped, or over torqued.
- new fuel filter
- new air filter
- new alternator
*The miss usually does NOT happen in the morning on the way to work after sitting 14 hours.
*The miss almost always goes away after the truck gets up to operating temp.
*The miss ALWAYS is present after work on the way home after sitting 9 hours.
Fuel pressure?
Bad COP?
Fuel Injector?
Something totally different?
Last night I backed up out of a parking space and when I put it in drive it wouldn't move. It seemed like the transmission was locked up. What happened? The truck was running fine. It's a 2002 Ford Ranger 3.0 with auto transmission. Getting it serviced? I'm tempted to go to a dealer. What the problem is? Repair costs? The fluid looks good - no burning smell.
View 5 RepliesI have a 95 Olds Ciera 3.1L Auto Transmission 150,000 Miles. While going down the highway as I was accelerating the transmission went out of gear while still in Drive (felt like I was in neutral and coasting). I found that the only gears that work are 1st & 2nd No Drive or Reverse. This happened suddenly without any hint of a problem prior to this. when I got home I checked the fluid (which I changed last summer) It was still clean and did not have any unusual odor, also the fluid level was fine.
View 4 RepliesI just got this 2007 Mazda6 S Sport Value Edition for free from a family member. It has an automatic transmission.
While driving it in a parking lot I noticed that the car was make some kind of a rattling noise whenever I start accelerating slowly from around 1000ish rpms. After that the noise disappears. The first time hearing something like this was in a Prius I rented, though I don't think this affects performance at all. I am wondering if this is normal?
Also the car has being sitting unused for about a couple of months before I picked it up. I noticed immediately a burning smell after driving it, somewhere under the driver side, which makes me suspect if it has something to do with the transmission. I know very little about fixing cars of course but I also own a manual transmission car, and this smell kinda reminds me of a burning clutch.
The car drives great. The transmission seems to work fine. No slipping. Driving around those hills in San Francisco just fine.
One day I was driving my truck 96 f150 4x4 Eddie Bauer edition and the over drive light started flashing and the truck got jerky going up hills. I got home and hooked my code reader up and (p0708) it said transmission range sensor. I replaced that the next day and drove it around town for about 30 minutes and parked it all seemed to good. But the very next day I started down the road and the transmission was slipping very bad after I turned around after a few hundred feet I barley made it back to my house. I checked my transmission fluid it's full and doesn't smell burnt or anything, I double checked the alignment on the neutral safety switch I just installed and it still in line. So I'm thinking my transmission is going out...
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Excursion diesel 7.3. I drove it for an hour yesterday and it drove great. When I arrived home I left the truck running and put it in park. Checked the mailbox and jumped back in the truck and put it in drive and it would not move. Tried FWD and reverse. Moved a little in reverse.
I turned the truck off then cranked it back up put it in drive and it drove fine..... Took it for a test drive and seems fine.
Did the same thing today. Went to drop my kids off and I put it in park and left the engine running. Put it back into drive and it would not move.
Turned the vehicle off and back on. Put it in drive and it drove off fine.
Fluid is full, red and no burnt smell. Wondering if this is converter or electrical and how long I can drive it like this.
I bought a 08 isf a week ago and its not in a really good condition it has done 177k miles and its moded with a k &N air intake and nameless exhaust.. According to its performance it still feels like 5.0 v8 and it gets to 60 less than five.. However the engine automatically cut-offs during a full throttle on 2nd and 3rd gear (during drive) so i was wondering if this thing is normal or the previous owners have done some tuning to its ECU.
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