I have an 07 with a 4r75e transmission that has developed a leak. The truck has 60,000 miles on it. I looked under the truck and it is not leaking from the pan. I plan to put on stands and get under it tomorrow to see if I can find the leak. Where I might check for the leak?
View 6 Replies2006 STX 4.6 .... I recently changed my oil a couple of weeks back. I've noticed spots of oil on the driveway. I thought it may be coming from the oil pan drain plug but i checked it and it seems to be coming from where the transmission connects to the engine. Lotta oil on the bell housing. That's where it looks like it's dripping off of. Could it be the rear main seal?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 Mazda CX-7, I take it in routinely for oil changes. somewhere between oil changes, there was an oil leak that had developed. no warning lights came on - no check engine light or oil light but the levels were low. I don't know how long it was leaking for, there was never any oil in the driveway or garage.
Any way, I took it to my dealer when diagnosed it with a dye test and told me that I needed to replace the oil filter, gasket and the entire oil cooler to properly fix the leak.
My question is for an opinion as to how urgent this repair is or if I should try and take it to a local mechanic, not my dealer. I have to say my dealer's service is less than desirable anyway. I have been checking the oil levels since I had it in on the 20th of January and it has not gone done. there are small spots on occasion on the driveway but nothing too major and I have not had to add oil to it since I had it looked at.
I have a 2009 RX350 with 51,000 miles (just 1000 over warranty). The left rear strut developed a bad leak and has begun making the noises associated with the failed strut. I will be changing out both rears and have two questions that I cannot find info for on the web.
1) I noticed the 2 latches on the side covers inside the back area to remove the panel and expose the rear strut tower, are these the only two latches I need to remove to access the upper bolts, or are there hidden screws or things I need to do to remove the panel?
2) What are the torque specs for the rear strut bolts?
Back story, I've been borrowing my father's 2008 Prius off of him since I took a new job and my Tacoma doesn't get the best mpg, and finally purchased it off of him. Its making a new sounds though and he wants to get it fixed if its something major.
Its a quiet peeping that can be heard inside the car when coming to a stop (just when its quiet.) I've tracked the sound down to the engine bay but cant pinpoint where it is exactly, somewhere on the drivers side and its more of a pulsating whining sounds. The water pump was replaced about 10k miles ago at 65k miles under warranty.
I did a coolant flush following the instructions posted on this site. In fact I did a little more than just a flush - replaced degas bottle cap, replaced thermostat and installed a coolant filtration system.
There were no leaks before I started and the only reason I did the flush was that there was green antifreeze in it.
I noticed that there was half a gallon of coolant under it in the parking lot this afternoon - the degas bottle still has coolant in it, so I drove it home and inspected the thermostat housing and top radiator hose, as well as all fittings and hoses installed as part of the coolant filter. Everything was dry.
I tracked the leak to the lower radiator hose - the one thing I did not touch as I drained from the petcock. Coolant is running down the lower radiator hose.
Could the new radiator cap have increased the pressure in the system to a point where it identified a weak point that was not leaking before?
My temps are great, ECT is stable about 188F - 190F and EOT is stable around 192F - 194F. I ran it hard and got temps up to around 200F and they both came back down to 192F range very quickly when I backed off. They were actually running about 5F higher before the flush.
I will try running the old cap to see if there is a difference, but if the lower hose is the weak point I'd prefer to replace that and run the new OEM cap.
After 150,000 miles, the radiator has developed a small leak. Question- do I have to remove the fan or can I just unbolt the shroud and push it back to slide the radiator out? I don't have that special wrench to spin off the clutch fan. 1997 Explorer 4.0 ....
View 1 RepliesI went on vacation, my 2.0T B6 developed a coolant leak at 35k miles. It's still in the shop but the problem has been identified as a leaky o-ring located toward the rear of the engine at the block. The SA told me that they've see quite a few of these in both Audi and VW products using the 2.0T.
I'm also getting a reflash for one of the recalls. I think it's the 03 recall but I'm not sure until I get the paperwork. So off I go in my loaner PT cruiser until I get the B6 back today....
I bought a 01.5 Passat a few months ago and it had developed an exhaust leak. So when I went to check under the car I found it was missing the catalytic converter.
View 4 Replies2008 Ford Explorer 4x4. 70,000 miles. Still under warranty. Took a lengthy trip and when we got home I notice a small transmission leak in the front around where the front seal is. No dipstick to check the fluid level so I dont know how much or how long of a leak. Called the Ford dealer and the mechanic told us that sometimes the transmission gets hot and leaks because of expansion! Is this for real?? I've never heard this before. I'm figuring bad seal.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2015 sonata SE with the stock 16 inch kumho summer tires. One of the tires just developed a leak, a slow one, after 5 days psi drops from 34 to 28. I am guessing I ran over a nail? or maybe valve leak? I don't recall driving over a pothole or anything that would otherwise damage the tire or rims.
Now suppose it is a nail, is it dangerous to keep it in there? will it deteriorate the rubber even more? Or is it one of those things i can leave in there, and just keep pumping air every few days?
Just wondering is it worth it to bring it to the tire shop and have the check for where the leak is and have them patch it.
I have 3750 miles on my tires, when should i get it rotated and/or replaced? How does one replace tire since there is a TPMS system? is it easy to do without dealership?
I have a 2005 Saab 97x. It has auto-leveling air suspension. Recently, it seems to have developed a slow leak. When I drive all day, it is fine, but each morning when I go outside, the rear end is eight inches lower than it was when I parked it the night before. If I start up the car, the pump kicks in, and the rear end lifts to its proper level.
View 1 RepliesMy 2009 Vue developed a coolant leak into the oil at 130k km. I had to have replaced. GM has a technical note about this exact problem with the recommended fix: Engine Replacement. The coolant was leaking into the oil at the water pump.
The Statement from the dealership states that there was a crack in the block near the water pump. The dealership was good but a block should not break like this. Is this a design defect with the block, and if so is their a class action already started?
A Power Steering leak has developed on my 2002 Alero's driver side near the front wheel. I've been aware from other posts that it may be the Rack and Pinion, a power steering pump or a seal. There has been no noises in my steering when I drive and its steering well as it ever was. I am wondering is there a way to detect what of the three things it may be?, without taking it into a dealership or shop?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 Ford F250 V-10 Superduty and recently I had a transmission cooler line start to leak. I ordered replacement lines and the tool for the quick disconnect. The line that's leaking is from the radiator to the quick disconnect. I was able to replace the one line, however the second line (problem area) has been a nightmare. The line cracked right at the quick disconnect fitting.
The hard line is tight in the fitting and corroded. broke the tool trying to remove from disconnect. The line is flush with the quick disconnect. How to get that out of the fitting? or another method of fix? Its a hard 1/2 line going into connect crimped to rubber line going to transmission.
Have a friend and looking at his truck for him. He was towing a boat and climbing a steep grade hill. As he described it, it felt like he lost all power. Did manage to get it to the top of the hill and stopped to check it out.
Noticed the under of the truck dripping oil. Checked the motor oil and none on the stick. Put 4 quarts in the motor, started it back up and oil pressure is good and motor sounds fine.
The strange thing is the motor is dry. Can not find where the oil leaked out. All the oil is located on the transmission and transfer case. I'm not too familiar with these Triton 5.4's but where could that oil possibly have come from? I'll re-look this morning.
Also, with oil in motor, and it is idling, there is no oil leak or drip anywhere. Is there a pressure regulator in this oil system and the load he was exerting cause it to release?
Transmission Oil leak ... I have a 2008 Sonata 2.4 Auto 60,000 miles just noticed a small transmission leak it isn't leaking much but is definitely there its around mainly the passenger side of transmission area close to drive shaft but is hard to pin point.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2006 F-150 XL with the 4.2 V6, auto that has a slow coolant leak that I cannot find.
I bought the truck this spring, 190K, drives good, but it leaks coolant. I have added probably 3 gallons of water this summer, this does not bode well for winter.
I can't see any wet spots or steam, but do smell anti-freeze occasionally from outside the cab.
I don't really want to try easter-egging the repair (replacing things that might fix it).
How to find the leak? Or should I just use some form of stop leak.
I have a factory plastic bedliner in my 05 F150 with the 8ft bed. The tie downs in the front of the bed have a small gap that allows water to leak under the bedliner. I have tried using silicone caulk around the seam but the flexing of the liner makes it come unglued.
How to keep the water from getting under? The water that makes its way through the seam drains out of the factory holes in the front of the bed but I still worry about the moisture under there causing rust.
Long story short, I have a small vacuum leak in the 4wd system. I disconnected the lines going to the hubs to prevent grinding them to pieces as they are brand new. This, of course lock the front hubs in and disengages the X-fer case in 2wd.
It is not engaging in 4wd unless I select it, so I don't imagine it hurting anything in the X-fer case or anything. Other than the extra rolling mass, is this okay to operate at until I resolve my vacuum issue, provided I close all openings and places for trash to get in?
2008 5.4 ... Well got a new issue now. Noticed last night that I have a leak of some sort from the front of the engine. I have the 08 5.4 4x4 with 70k miles for the background info. The leak is coming from the front of the oil pan area unless it's running down the engine from somewhere I can't see yet. The fluid appears to be more like power steering. My oil is at the end of it's cycle so it is a little dark but the fluid leak is clear to a slight yellow and pretty thin in consistency. I've rubbed it between my fingers and the texture does not feel like oil. First I wanted to see if you guys have had a similar leak before I really start tearing into things and do you think it's possible to have power steering fluid leak that far forward on the engine? I've checked the fluid levels and they appear fine but this leak did just start and came on pretty quickly. I plan to take a photo tonight and re-post that. Have oil pan seal to start leaking because I know that's pretty rare on most vehicles but nothing seems rare on this vehicle.
View 6 Replies