Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Transmission Bang When It Shifts And RPMs Drop To Lock Up Range
Sep 12, 2011
Truck is 04 supercrew with 5.4 and 140,000 miles. I have the typical shutter when cruising 55 - 60 and just ease on the throttle to pass someone. I chalked that up to the torque converter unlocking, if I punch it instead of easing into it, it will not shutter. As of yesterday, it acts like the converter is going to full lock up almost immediately. It will bang when it shifts and rpm's drop to lock up range. A few times it has killed the engine when I shift into D. No codes at all, I removed the programmer and installed the stock tune, no change, unhooked battery, no change, fluid is good, and twice after leaving stop signs it worked perfect until the next stop. I believe that it is an electrical control problem.
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2008 Passat 2.0T auto, started occasionally shifting with a loud bang into and out of park, and from forward into reverse and reverse into forward. No MIL, pending transmission communications error code. Would accelerate very poorly up until about 30mph and then accelerate normally. Shutting the car off and then restarting would usually clear up the symptoms. Started happening about once a week over a 3 week period, and then started happening about about every other day. With it happening more often, had an opportunity to experiment a little, and by shifting into sport mode (which causes the MFD to display the gear that the transmission is in) noticed that the car was not shifting into 1st to 3rd gear, but starting off in 4th. With that and the rough shifts in and out of park, I thought that it was probably transmission related,
With a tranny being $$$$ and the battery being 4 years old, and relatively cheap to replace, I decided to play the long shot and see if a possibly weak battery was causing an electrical problem in the transmission. The battery checked out OK at a couple of places, but decided to give it a shot and replace it anyway.
Installed the new battery (Bosch from Pep Boys $109) and had every warning light on the dash go on with the first restart, along with a return of the harsh shift out of park problem. Shut the car off, turned it back on, drove five miles, all the warning lights went out, and no return of the transmission problem after 5+ months and 10K miles.
Just a heads up - if your battery is 4+ years old, and you are getting any odd problems that could in any way possibly be related to the electrical system - which includes just about every system on our cars - consider going for a new battery. Worked for me.
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What is the range is on these temps. Reason I ask is because long story short My truck did not come with a factory tow package and I have added the hitch and seven pin wiring, I am lacking the HD trans cooler. Recently purchased a travel trailer and am a little worried about getting the tranny too hot. I have an Edge tuner and set the gauge to read tranny fluid temp. Without the trailer I have been seeing temps that range in the 130's to 150's, with the trailer I have been seeing temps in the high 160's, with a spike to 176 when going up a hill. I plan to add the tranny cooler but cash is little tight at the moment. Just wondering how hot is too hot.
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I have a 2004 f150 non heritage with a 5.4 its an ext cab lariat auto. It has 350,000 but has been well maintained. The truck runs perfect except sometimes I will hop in and start it up and when i take off it shifts through all the gears before 25mph and when i come to a stop it feels like it downshifts all at once and when i stop it will die. Again it only does this occasionally and the rest of the time runs A-1. This leads me to believe its an electronic error but it is not throwing any codes and cannot get it to replicate the symptoms for my mechanic.
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I have a 2006 F150 4x4. When the engine an transmission is cold it jerks/ Bogs when it shifts. After it warms up it doesn't jerk to bad sometimes but you can still notice it. Also when it shifts the RPM's drop low causing it to bog and jerk. RPM's will go from 1600 to about 800 when it shifts. It is and auto transmission. Today I wanted to try something so I pressed the button to turn the over drive off. Well it shift real good with the OD Off. Seem like with the OD Off it keeps the RPM's up a little higher so it doesn't bog and jerk. I put an Edge Programmer on it, but that didn't work. Still does the same thing with or without the programmer. I changed all my spark plug and coil packs. Truck goes great until it shifts.
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I have a 77 F250 with a NP 205, when I lock it into 4H the 4wd works, when I lock it into 4L it goes into low range but the 4wd does not work. What the problem could be?
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Just finished putting a fresh 460 backed by a (1977) c6 in my '68 ranger and now I'm having (what I believe is) transmission problems. The truck will idle and rev properly in gear but as soon as I put it in drive or reverse the RPM's drop and it dies. I jacked the back end up and put it in both drive and reverse and the tire's spin, but if I try and apply the brake to stop them the truck will die. My suspicion is that the torque converter is locked up all the time. I have managed to get it in gear and give it gas and it'll drive and shift fine, until I come to a stop. My question, what would cause the converter to do this? It's the same transmission and converter that I pulled out a month ago and I never had any issues before...
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Well I am not sure if i have trans problem or not. If I put the trans in drive and go through the gears when the RPM's get to about 2000 the truck almost stops accelerating, until you give it much more gas, this happens in every gear. but If you push the button to take it out of overdrive and drive like that it doesn't do it.
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So have an '04 F150, 5.4l truck in the shop that has a nice clunk or bang when you tip into the throttle and the TC unlocks. Smooth as glass when you back out of it and the TCC locks back up, no shudder on lockup, nothing. No codes in the PCM, no nothing. Drives well, fuel trims are good. Truck has about 178k on it. Acts like it has an idle misfire, but you don't see it anywhere in the fuel trims or misfire data or anything else. Should I just put a converter in it? Or maybe reprogram the PCM first?
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I have 99 f350 v10 4x4 and trans shifts great under light rpms but 2-3 shifts very hard. At wide open from about 35 mph it will shift down and take off like a bullet but wont shift until I lift my foot and then it bangs hard from 2-3. All other gears are smooth. I did some searching and have found some threads saying it could be an accumulator spring that is broken? Truck has 115,000 miles on it. love the truck but want to fix this before it does some damage.
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I installed the TurboKits CAI kit a few weeks ago. Installation went smoothly, and the latest kit has a modification to the box that fits our Accent's air snorkel. On cars with automatic transmissions, I had to cut out a notch from the bottom of the box to clear the transmission, but I doubt that this affects the air flow to the filter.
However, I have a big problem with the sound. The transmission often shifts at very low RPMs, and the CAI makes a very loud burble when this occurs. If I shift into a lower gear using the semi-manual mode, then the sound goes away. I realize that CAIs make a louder sound when you put your foot into it, but I find the sound a little over-the-top (especially considering that when the sound comes on, the engine is producing very little power at this part of the power band).
So, it's not really a problem with the CAI itself, more with the car's TCU. Unfortunately, it's too annoying for me, so I'll be reverting back to the original air intake system, and selling the TurboKits CAI.
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Just a hour ago, driving along about 45, then I hear a loud bang and my truck quits. I get off the road and it won't even turn over. I had a friend tow it back to the barracks and put a socket and breaker bar on the crank and can't move it. All the fluids are fine. Possible seized up? The thing was running great as always then boom. Nothing! It's a 06' F150, 5.4, 97K on it.
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i was driving home and i heard a loud bang, next thing i noticed was the window fell all the way down and wont come back up. I hear a slight clicking sound when i press the window button, but nothing happens...maybe a broken regulater???? how much do these cost? can i fix it on my own?
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I have a very specific problem with my 2008 Chrysler Town and Country. It has happened 4 times in the past few months and the dealership is unable to replicate the problem, so they tell me there is no problem. When I am decelerating/coasting the traction control light on the dash will come on, the power steering will go out, the RPMs will drop to zero and the gas pedal is loose and has no effect, and then the power brakes will go out. All the electrical still works, I muscle over to the side of the road, turn it off, wait a few seconds, turn it back on, it starts up just fine and I drive off with no problem.
The first three times it happened I was on the same stretch of road (which I dubbed the Bermuda Triangle Road), I was going 25 mph, the road is fairly level, the pavement was dry and it was above freezing. The fourth time was on a different road, but still level, there was snow and it was below freezing but the road was clear, and I was going about 33 mph. Each time the car had been sitting in my garage for at least a couple of hours, and it happened only a few minutes after leaving the house.
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2004 BMW 325i automatic - 127,000 well maintained miles - never abused - at 35-40 mph in high gear the rpms will periodically drop 200 and there is a noise like driving over small rumble strips after which the rpms instantly return - the speed does not vary. the dealer installed a warn drive shaft bearing but the problem continues - it is a bit less noticeable in sport mode - what can it be? computer - transmission - ????
The intention is to keep it for many years so if it is a transmission problem would rebuilding the current one or putting in a new one be the more advisable solution?
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I recently purchased a 2005 f-150 4x4 with 115,000 miles. The truck is in overall great shape but does have a mysterious transmission issue i have been chasing for over a month. The truck runs and drives great aside from a occasional rough shift. The overdrive light flashes and the monitor displays "trans fault". I have had the truck to a few different mechanics including the local Ford dealership. It pulls p0702. The truck will manually shift into 4x4 but it will not engage by using the switch. I have replaced: Trans wiring harness, checked all fuses, dropped pan and replaced all wires, nuetral safety switch and a few other misc. parts.
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Drive a 2004 Ford F150 4.6L V8 EXT CAB. It has 71,000 miles on it. Truck runs great, doesn't stall or miss and idles good but my gas mileage lately has been very bad. Oil, air filter and fuel filter have been changed. What could cause this?
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I bought an 07 F150 5.4 4x4 with 135k on it about 6 months ago. Shortly after buying the truck I began experiencing a shudder when lightly accelerating up a hill. Also when accelerating hard it would misfire. Thinking that it was plugs or COPs I changed the plugs and coils. That fixed the missfire issue but it still shuddered when accelerating up a hill.
I decided to take it back to the used car dealer where I bought it so they could fix it. On the way there the fly wheel broke. The dealer replaced it and thought that it was the cause of the problem but on the way home I still experienced the shudder. I took it back and they "scoped" it and found that the torque converter was bad. They replaced the TC and now there is no more shudder BUT now I have a new problem.
Now if I am driving at highway speed and let off the gas it feels like it immediately down shifts for a few seconds then shifts back up and coasts along until I give it gas again. There is enough resistance that it feels like a jake brake or that the breaks are being applied. Also if driving along at 30 - 40 mph and just holding the gas in the same spot maintaining 30-40 it feels like it down shifts and up shifts over and over until I either give it more gas or let off all together. Also a few times pulling away from a stop I will get a thump.
I have an appointment with a transmission shop in a few days but today on the way home I put it in second gear while going up a hill so it would not shift and it seemed like it was coughing and sputtering. So now I am wondering if that is what is happening and either feeling like or causing the down shift up shift issue.
If it is a missfire issue why would the new torque converter cause this? It has all new motor craft plugs and all new after market coils.
There are no check engine or other warning lights lit on the dash. I have a cheap ODB scanner and it shows two codes. B1676 which apparently is a Battery Pack Voltage Out Of Range or ABS voltage issue. The voltage is showing at 14.2 volts and there is no noticeable battery issues. The second code is a P1000 Drive cycle test not complete. (this code has been showing for some time the 1676 code is new since the torque converter swap)
One side note: after the TC change every time I start the truck the radio/cd changer cycles though all the CDs. like it it is checking for a disk so it clicks and pops around from a moment. The only time I heard this happen before was after having the battery disconnected. The clock is not reset though like I would expect if it was losing all power.
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Lost overdrive. Shifts when o/d disengaged. Dropped pan, valve body and found that the servo retaining ring is still intact but the small clip for the center shafts of the servo was broken. Found it loose on the valve body along with a flat piece of metal shaped like half of a hexagon. 3 sided shape, approximately 1 inch each side. Like one 6 inch piece that's folded together. Don't know where that came from. Afraid to put back together without knowing where that came from. Was founded right next to the broken clip. 2007 f150 4.6 4x2 ....
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I have a 2008 GC 6 speed transmission that has 55000 miles on it. When the engine and tranny is cold the transmission shifts very hard until it warms up. There are times when shifting from reverse to drive it shifts very hard. Also, the siding doors creak when driving over rough roads. Can they be adjusted?
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this has been an outstanding van, quite reliable. it has about 115,000 miles on it. Recently, I've noticed that the transmission makes a 'tapping' noise when it shifts or downshifts. every gear has that same slight 'tap'. the tranny shifts fine, smooth, but this sound worries me a bit. any chance this could be a u-joint issue?
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