Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Tie Rod End Torque Specs?
Jun 25, 2011
Just doing the bro in law's tie rod ends and we are wondering what torque we should be putting on the castle nuts? They are greasable Moogs...
View 2 RepliesJust doing the bro in law's tie rod ends and we are wondering what torque we should be putting on the castle nuts? They are greasable Moogs...
View 2 RepliesWhat the torque spec is for the driveshaft to rear differential flange mounting bolts on the 99 F150 4x4 supercab?
View 1 RepliesWhat are the torque specs for tie rods for a 4x4.
View 4 RepliesTell me the torque specs for the various attaching nuts of the front hub assembly for the 99 F150 4x4 5.4L (large nut on the spindle, mounting bolts to back of spindle, etc if any) ? I will need them to put everything back together after checking the tone ring for my ABS problem.
View 1 RepliesReplacing EGR cooler/ EGR valve. Are there torque specs going back together with the EGR system? or is there a forum that has all the torque specs id need to complete the job.
View 4 RepliesWhat are the torque specs for front and back rancho 9000xl? Really want to know the front top spec with the rubber bushings that squish flat the most.The rest ill make tight.
View 14 RepliesI had found the torque specs for the oil plug, oil filter housing the oil filter housing drain plug but I am unable to locate now.
30 ft lb drain plug
25 ft lb filter housing
10 ft lb filter housing drain plug
Mounting the shock with the boot up or down? I know it doesn't matter according to Bilstein but one way has to be better than the other.
Second. What are the torque specs for the upper and lower bolts? I know the lower front is around 350lbs but haven't found anything for the rest. found out the rear bolts are torqued to 66lb.
Third. The front shocks didn't come with a boot to protect the shaft. Is one needed when the shock is installed?
Truck is a 2012 F150 FX4.
I need the torque specs for the bearing caps and the order to torque them. Can't find the pdf file for the bentley. Looking for a link to the bentley..
View 24 RepliesI read 18lbs for the water pump but it took a cheater bar (perhaps due to corrosion) to get the water pump lower elbow bolts off.
On reinstallation, what should the lower elbow bolts be torqued to? Checked the sticky (Ziggy's Torque Specs) but didn't see the specs for this item.
What are the torque specs for the crankshaft,cylinder heads and camshafts for a 2005 f550 v10 6.8?
View 2 Replies2011 Lexus RX350 ... What are the Torque specs for the caliper bracket bolts (front and rear caliper brackets) a pdf will be great
View 1 RepliesI have to replace the valve cover gasket this weekend.
View 5 RepliesJust put on a 4" MBRP turbo back system. What torgue should I tighten the clamp bolts?
View 2 RepliesI am finally getting around to changing the trans fluid on my 05 f150 5.4 4wd xlt auto, what is the torque value for the trans pan bolts.
View 1 RepliesI highjacked another thread yesterday but didn't get many responses so I thought I would start a new one... I've done some searching here but no one had any real answers or had a different reason for the vibration...
We have a stock '05 F150 with 24k mi that is having Vibrations not related to bad tires or a bad trailer. It rattles any cups or change that is in the center console area and the dashboard. It seems to come up through the floor.
Symptoms timeline:
The rear pops when you turn tight in a parking lot. I've been told this is normal because of the ratcheting LSD? Is this true?
The tranny fluid was low and we could not find where it was going. Put several qts in it and finally took it to the dealer where they replaced the bad seal between the transmission and transfer case. So we know they took the driveshaft out and the transfer case. Not sure if they dropped the transmission out.
We have a vibration from about 40mph-55mph under medium-full throttle. A lot worse when towing. Put it in neutral and it goes away. Rev the motor and you don't feel it. Only happens under load. Happens in 3 and 4th gear. Goes away once the torque converter locks up.
Am I going down the right path in saying it's a bad torque converter?
2008 F-150 2WD
How tight should the wheel bearing retaining nut (sealed bearing hubs) be torqued when replacing the front rotors?
Is there a spec, or just real good and tight since the bearings are sealed units.....
My 2006 F150 King Ranch 90K 5.4 lags both torque and power in addition to only 11-12 MPG
In the city it does not bother me to much but when on the highway trying its very annoying. I used to have 2005 F-150 before so I know the difference. When I accelerate its ok but lags some serious power especially at high RPM. but without any hesitation. When I try to tow my trailer or go uphill it has no torque. I still haven't tried a dyno reading
Note: The engine runs smooth, no misfires or shows no codes. The only codes I got before was for the evaporation system but disappeared after I replaced the Fuel Pump Driver Module
Now I already replaced the: Spark plugs, mass airflow sensor, cats, air filter, fuel filter + fuel pump driver module, bought another tuner. I even took it to the dealership without any findings
Now I am beginning to think if the engine timing could be slightly wrong. I just can't figure out what it is if it throws no codes and runs perfectly smooth. It's just like it's not getting enough air or fuel but without any hesitation or misfire.
I bought an 07 F150 5.4 4x4 with 135k on it about 6 months ago. Shortly after buying the truck I began experiencing a shudder when lightly accelerating up a hill. Also when accelerating hard it would misfire. Thinking that it was plugs or COPs I changed the plugs and coils. That fixed the missfire issue but it still shuddered when accelerating up a hill.
I decided to take it back to the used car dealer where I bought it so they could fix it. On the way there the fly wheel broke. The dealer replaced it and thought that it was the cause of the problem but on the way home I still experienced the shudder. I took it back and they "scoped" it and found that the torque converter was bad. They replaced the TC and now there is no more shudder BUT now I have a new problem.
Now if I am driving at highway speed and let off the gas it feels like it immediately down shifts for a few seconds then shifts back up and coasts along until I give it gas again. There is enough resistance that it feels like a jake brake or that the breaks are being applied. Also if driving along at 30 - 40 mph and just holding the gas in the same spot maintaining 30-40 it feels like it down shifts and up shifts over and over until I either give it more gas or let off all together. Also a few times pulling away from a stop I will get a thump.
I have an appointment with a transmission shop in a few days but today on the way home I put it in second gear while going up a hill so it would not shift and it seemed like it was coughing and sputtering. So now I am wondering if that is what is happening and either feeling like or causing the down shift up shift issue.
If it is a missfire issue why would the new torque converter cause this? It has all new motor craft plugs and all new after market coils.
There are no check engine or other warning lights lit on the dash. I have a cheap ODB scanner and it shows two codes. B1676 which apparently is a Battery Pack Voltage Out Of Range or ABS voltage issue. The voltage is showing at 14.2 volts and there is no noticeable battery issues. The second code is a P1000 Drive cycle test not complete. (this code has been showing for some time the 1676 code is new since the torque converter swap)
One side note: after the TC change every time I start the truck the radio/cd changer cycles though all the CDs. like it it is checking for a disk so it clicks and pops around from a moment. The only time I heard this happen before was after having the battery disconnected. The clock is not reset though like I would expect if it was losing all power.
Gonna change my oil in a hour or so and I was wondering what the torque spec is for the oil drain plug.
View 3 RepliesI am getting a little frustrated with a leak on my rear differential. The leak is on the front of differential rear-end just behind the four bolts you take off to remove the driveshaft. When you take the driveshaft out, there is a single bolt and the seal behind that is leaking. Here is my dilemma, I called my local ford dealership to find out what the torque rating on that bolt is so when I replace the seal I don't over-tighten. He told me there is no torque rating on it because I have to tighten, measure, tighten, measure the bolt. I was lost, I didn't have a clue what he was talking about.
View 6 Replies