Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Ticking Noise On Passenger Side During Idle
Jul 18, 2016
I recently got Gibson Performance Headers on my 2006 Ford F150. And when you cold start it or just start it period it has a odd ticking noise on the passenger side.
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I have a 2004 ford f150 5.4l v8 triton lariat and while at idle it has a ticking noise like this video
YouTube...
However I also have a rattling noise when decelerating at around 2000 rpms that sounds like a loose chain in a box. Not sure if its VCT sensor or cam phasers ...
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2008 - <40k miles. Drove the car a good 50 miles yesterday with no problems. today as i was leaving the house, i kept hearing a ticking noise that was progressive in frequency the faster i drove it. i only made it to the end of my street, went back home to drive off in my gas guzzler for my 50mile round trip today.
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I have a 2004 Chevy cavalier with 133,000 miles. For the last week I have been hearing a ticking noise - seems to be coming from inside the dash board on the passengers side (glove compartment). The ticking noise begins when the engine starts up and stops when the engine stops, so the noise is continuous while the engine is running. The car runs well, no loss in power, nothing out of the ordinary, with the exception of the noise. I opened the hood and listen - the sound seems to come from inside the firewall.
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2005 ford f150 Fx4 So last Friday I started hearing a grinding noise from the passenger side front of my truck. sounded like metal on metal. So I started rooting around and noticed that bottom ball joints were shot. so replaced bottom ball joints on both side. I aslo replaced wheel bearing hub assembly on both sides, still heard the grinding. So I noticed that both axles were slinging grease, so I replaced them on both sides.
Still heard the grinding noise. So then I removed everything from the passenger side and noticed that the locking hub actuator was grinding both axle and the wheel bearing hub. So I just got done replacing that on the passenger side, put it all back together, and still grinding noise ringtones free. Also replaced the 4wd solenoid that they said gets water in it, and I replaced the check valve. And I put new Rotors and breaks. What it could be?
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I recently bought a 2005 f150 fx4. With about 125000 on it. It started this noise coming from the passenger side. Does it while driving only. It sounds just like the casting noise on a fishing rod. What this could be. Not sure which tire its coming from. Maybe breaks? Doesn't change when breaks are applied though.
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My 2004 F-150 5.4 has a rattling noise coming from the passenger side of the engine when at operating temperature. The cam phasers and all related parts have been replaced. The reason I was prompted to change the phasers, chains, guides and tensioners was due to the engine stopping on me as I returned home from an errand. The engine had already shown signs of needing the phasers replaced.
The engine runs very smooth while warming up. Vehicle lacks power and has a rough idle after warm. Took the truck to a local mechanic, in the process of making a diagnosis, he performed a compression test. Cylinder 3 psi was much lower than the other 7 cylinders, the mechanic recommended replacing the engine (possible bent valve).
I have a Haynes manual, have searched youtube and checked this and similar forums, I have yet to find instructions on the removal of the head from the block.
(2004 Ford F-150 5.4 3v)....
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I have a 2008 Ford F150 that ticks loudly at hot idle. Took it to the dealer and hear is what the service manager has said so far:
"So far we checked codes, all was ok. tested oil pressure and found it met the spec of 15 PSI, removed valve covers. Found the CVT solonoids are the newer style. Inspected the camshafts, cam phasers, rocker arms, cam chains. All check ok at this time. Not finding any true "root of concern" I'm trying to get approval for engine replacement in hopes that replacement is quieter. Approval is difficult without any true failure...still working on it though."
If this is not the cam phasers, what else could it possibly be?
Here is my engine noise: [URL] .....
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I have an 02 Eddie Bauer V8 AWD that is making a ticking noise at low speeds ( under 10mph ) on the pass. side. It sounds like a rock in a hubcap noise. I have pulled the wheels and checked the CV boots and they are fine.
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Having issue with his truck. He bought it 3 months ago and has no history. 166k. You now know as much as I do about the truck! He knows little about automobiles so fact finding has been difficult. I have done all my own work on countless US and foreign automobiles over the last 30 years and never take my vehicles anywhere. I will try to post as much detailed info as I can. I have read tons of posts now on various forums so I am up to speed on VCT and phasers.
This one seems similar, but not exactly the same symptoms which is why I am here. I have already pulled the VCTs and found the passenger side missing the top screen. I swapped them from side to side which made no difference. I checked ohms and they were at 15 which is normal from what I read. They were very clean and moved easily when I took them out so they were not gunked up so I don't think that's the problem. It idles very smoothly and isn't rough at all.
I have posted a video of the knocking/dieseling noise (link below) coming from the passenger side. The knocking starts as soon as the truck is started hot or cold (outside temps right now 70F-90F Houston). I can make the knock disappear by gently depressing the gas pedal going from idle of about 650/700 to maybe 750/800 and it will go away completely as long as I keep it gently depressed. As soon as I lift up it returns.
If I rev it up to 2000-3000 rpm it does not knock, however, as soon as I lift off quickly, it seems to knock at a high speed, hangs for a second and then knocks all the way back to idle. However, if I rev up and then lift off very slowly, it will not knock. I have tried to locate the exact location of the knock, but doesn't exactly seem right at the phaser, but actually back around the 2nd and 3rd spark plug area, but I can't tell exactly. I've had a couple people tell me the same when I asked them to tell me where its coming from. The noise is bouncing around in there so difficult to pinpoint exact area.
[URL] .....
I wanted to get some second opinions on what this could be so I know where to go next.
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I have a tick in my 2001 V10, 190,000 (mostly easy) miles. I've changed oil/filter regularly at 3,000 mile intervals using Valvoline 5W20.
The tick seems to be on the passenger side of the engine, and is loudest when the engine is cold. It follows engine speed. The tick seems to be loudest as the engine transitions from acceleration to deceleration when I lift the throttle--I've NOT seen that posted before.
So, an exhaust manifold leak seems to be the most obvious? I installed a Banks Power Pack with Torque Tube headers in 2009 (about 90,000 miles ago) using thread lock compound on the supplied bolts and torqued to the instructions--I don't' remember the torque setting, but will look it up. I've listened to each exhaust port with a mechanic's stethoscope, all I hear is a smoothly running rotating assembly! Same result with the stethoscope on either side of the front cover (for timing chain slap.) NO tick through the stethoscope! I plan to check all the header bolts' torque this weekend, but don't really expect to find a problem. I will also scoot under the truck and recheck all the exhaust pipe clamps.
I've also listened to all the injectors--two of them (#3 and #4) were noticeably quieter than the other eight. But, none of them stood out as being particularly noisy. I've seen a couple of threads here that asked what a normal injector should sound like, but never an answer. How they should sound?
I've listened to each coil. I can hear a slight arc on #3. I believe the spring in the boot is not seated on the coil tab correctly (happened before.) I will correct that this weekend also. Nothing sounded like a loose plug, though I don't really know what that would sound like with the stethoscope.
What else could/should I check to avoid removing the valve/cam covers? (For cam follower or rocker trouble). I don't mind doing that, but don't want to go to the trouble and then find it wasn't necessary. I may spin on a Motorcraft filter (I'm just 800 miles into the last oil change now, I usually use Fram) but the tick stays with me until the engine is normal operating temperature, so I don't think it is from bleed back.
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I owned a 99 f250 a little while ago. Just bought a 2006 crewcab F150 xlt about 2 months ago, and for the past month there has been this unusual grinding or whirring like noise coming from the front passenger side wheel.
I took it to the mechanic and he found a bad wheel bearing on drivers side and replaced it but that wasn't the issue. He could hear the noise but wasn't able to figure out what the actual issue was.
The noise only happens when my foot is on the throttle. (not when coasting) and i also just discovered that it doesn't make any noise at all when put in 4x4.
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Getting these codes what they mean or need to do ..to get rid of them...p0022, p0171, p0174, p0183, p0340, p0300, p0316, p2006 did timing n plugs fuel filter n gas filter getting very bad gas mileage it runs good but here a ticking in motor at idle and more as u accelerate, running rough....
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Sound coming from the engine and it is coming from the passengers side of the engine. The year is 2003, LS model, and four wheel drive. Well, I took it in yesterday and the mechanic said it was the "Camshaft" and this was a normal sound. Not to mention I have had this vehicle in for 6 other problems: 3 times for the four wheel drive light malfunctioning, 2 times for the service engine light coming on and then they had to replace a seal on the left front deferential because it was leaking oil.
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My Accent is making a ticking sound in the rear passenger side. When I slow down it becomes a grinding sound. The car only has 19k. I have scheduled a appointment to get it looked at....
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Noticed a ticking noise when at idle? I had another touareg owner ask me if I noticed it and I thought maybe it was just mine up until that point. 41k oil changed religiously with casterol synthetic...
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I just bought a 2004 4.2 V8 Touareg with issues. Engine has oil. Tried to start it but no start. I could hear a loud ticking from passenger (right) side cam upon cranking. I removed all plug wires from right side cam and now it starts and runs on drivers side (left) only. Getting spark from all disconnected wires. Car will drive forward and back and check engine light flashes. Reconnected right side plug wires and no start.
I notice one of the plastic intake manifold arms connected to a rubber bellow was broken. I assume that's for O2 sensor/warm up so probably wouldn't prevent the engine from cranking.
What do I do next? Remove valve cover and look for camshaft damage? Bad cam sensor cause this? I'd rather not drop a rebuilt motor in it but I also don't want to throw $5k of parts at it. Car is for my soon to be 16 year old son (maybe it's safer as a four banger!).
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2004 Jetta GLI 2.8 ... Tonight I started getting a coolant leak somewhere on passenger side. There is also a loud noticeable ticking coming from that area but it is NOT the engine. Slow steady tick, just to the left of engine (when looking head on). Car also began to overheat. Coolant reservoir is full, too flow to be honest, but I don't see any leaks from there. No check engine light is on. Car does NOT leak coolant when off. Only when running and putting load on engine. At idle I cannot see any leakage. Thoughts? I'm thinking perhaps water pump? 87k on the car. Original pump from what I can tell. Bought the car a week ago.
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I have a 2005 F 150 5.4L and i just changed the front rotors, pads, and calipers. Because the passengers side caliper had locked and the rims was really hot and i knew it was the caliper so i changed both the driver and passenger side calipers and hoses. A month before this i had changed the pad and rotors but after the caliper locked it put grooves in the rotor and damaged the pad but the pads and rotors i bought have a lifetime warranty so i got a brand new set and changed them while replacing the calipers.
After installing everything i bleed the front brakes. But did not bleed the rear and i am wondering since i did not do the rear even though i did not touch them it is causing the front to make a ticking sound the whole time i am driving and it is starting to annoy me even though it has only been 4 days since i did the front brake job. I put Duralast rotors and Duralast Gold Cmax Premium Ceramics Pads. What is causing this ticking.
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Having problems with a squeaking or ticking noise coming from the front windshield area on the passenger side? I took off the A-pillar and tweeter speaker cover, and the noise was still there. Pressing on the A-pillar did not work and it's not any of the cords or plastics in there rubbing. It almost sounds like it's behind the A-pillar. Pressing on the dash, windshield, headliner, etc. all have no effect on the noise.
I'm trying really hard to fix this myself because I'm worried about a tech tearing apart the dash trying to fix it. It might end up worse than it is now. I'm thinking this TSB will need to be done (which seems to apply to all Toyotas): [URL] ....
Next on my list to check is the passenger side mirror (make sure it's fastened securely) and also the black liner under the windshield wipers. I also have foam (like the kind you use when installing a window AC) which I may also try stuffing into the bottom of the front windshield (and maybe the top) to see if that works.
If all else fails, the car is going to the dealer I guess. The Camry is such a quiet car that the noise is really irritating in an otherwise quiet interior. Other than this noise, the car is great! Just a little bummed because my 2005 has zero rattles or noises and my gf's old 2009 also had no rattles or noises. The 2015 refresh is nice, though we're still on the fence about the front grille. My relative is waiting for the 2016's to be released later this year and then he will be buying one for his patrol car. The 2015 isn't a full redesign but it looks different enough that he wants to wait for the next MY to come out. He's dreading leaving behind his 5MT Civic but it needs to be replaced. He hasn't had an auto, ever, come to think of it..
It sounds exactly like this, and is at its worse when accelerating: [URL] ....
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07 f150 screw 5.4 104+ miles, loss of power and ticking noise (sounds like no oil)on passengers side, no engine light, no codes, ford dealer changed coil packs and plugs, inspected valve gear on passengers side and nothing seemed out of spec, no broken springs, followers, lifters, manifolds on both sides have been replaced very recently.
The ticking noise began about a week after an oil change, truck runs fine but no power/sluggish. exhaust is magnaflow side exit and seems to be louder inside the cab than usual or could be just me.
Truck had a miss that i was trying to find prior to oil change and ticking noise. it ran well for a week with the tick before (and miss) the loss of power which started after a 30 min drive under load up hill. it almost felt and sounded as if the muffler was dragging on the road for about 100 feet, ran fine for two miles until it was shutdown. restarted fine but flat when you get into it.
Clogged cat/cats; internal damage to muffler, oil issue even tho the gauge reads fine.
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