Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Throttle Unresponsive And Felt Like Transmission Downshifting While Driving At 70 MPH
Mar 31, 2017
I have a 2004 F150 XLT SCAB 5.4L 3v Fuel that I drive Daily, it has 280,000 miles on it. While driving to work (70mph) my throttle became unresponsive and it felt like the transmission was downshifting. Made my way to the edge of the highway and placed truck into Neutral, then the engine quit. Tried restarting at which point would not fire. After letting the truck sit (while waiting for a tow) I decided to try to start it. The Truck did start and ran for only about 2 minutes and then quit. The Tow truck finally arrived and I tried to start again with the same problem occurring, stated and ran for about 2 minutes (no throttle response) and died.
Got the truck home and decided to remove the Fuel line from the filter to see if there was fuel flowing, which there was none and no pressure. Replaced the FPDM with a new one, old unit was corroded but not cracked (replaced it once before). Tried to start and would only crank with out any fuel flowing (still had it removed from the filter). Thinking it may be the Fuel Pump but have to drain the tank being that I just filled it this morning before it died. The problem is, how to drain the tank before lowering it if the Fuel Pump is not running??? What the Problem is or how to test Fuel Pump or drain the Tank?
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2009 Prius w/ 29,750 mi [Maint Req Light came on at ~28,000 mi]..
I am getting a Master Warning Light (triangle), a Hybrid System Warning icon, a VSC light, a (red) Brake Warning icon and a Check Engine icon. When the car starts, the A/C is fine but quickly loses cooling output especially with full throttle. regardless of manual or auto setting. Throttle feels a bit spongy and slightly unresponsive.
4 blue bars on charge and everything else appears OK.
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My S10 started downshifting at highway speeds when I slightly let up on the throttle. It only starts after driving 20 or 30 miles down the road. (gets hot?) It also hesitates slightly starting from a dead stop as well after that. I dropped the pan, cleaned it up and added new fluid. There was a fine powdery sludge on the magnet in the pan, but no metal shavings. It is still doing the same thing.
It has 95,500 miles on it. 2.2 motor. The fluid was low a couple weeks ago. I added a bottle of conditioner. Don't remember the brand name. 2 reservoirs in the bottle so it mixes as you pour it in. It started acting up 7 days ago.
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I am usually on 6.0 site and don't know much about a 5.4 gasser, hope to get some tech info. My buddy was driving to my house yesterday and his 06 F-150 with a 5.4 liter just shut off while driving. He got it restarted on first try, all engine vitals normal. I sent him to Advance Auto Parts and they pulled codes; P-2112 and P-2104 and throttle actuator stuck closed. Engine is running fine and he has driven it about 100 miles since yesterday with no problems. 06 F-150 5.4 liter 58,000 miles.
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Here are the basics:
1. Suppose I come to a dead stop or a rolling stop and I continue keeping a small or very small amount of pressure on the accelerator. When I try to start again gently, there are two outcomes: (a) the "hesitation" or "no or dead throttle response," when I had added only a small amount of pressure, or (b) a "lurch" when I add more pressure to counter act the hesitation!
2. On the other hand, if I come to a stop or a partial/rolling stop, and remove all pressure from the accelerator before I start again, it seems I can start from a stop normally, both gently and under control. I have been experimenting by being certain there is no accelerator pedal at all prior to any start from dead or nearly a dead stop. That isn't, however, a fail-safe approach because of various driving conditions.
But, even if that provides a partial remedy, there is still a problem because this isn't the way the accelerator should work. It should not take all that learning, adjustment, and counter-measures to drive safely.
I certainly agree with the another poster: either of the two results of this: the "hesitation," and/or the sudden "lurch," could put the truck in a dangerous situation. I already have experienced this near chaos a couple of times.
So, is this problem continuing to appear on 6.7 2011 Fords, and, if anyone has a 2012---has this problem appeared on the most recently built Fords?
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Ok so the other day the truck started smoking excessively (white smoke) mostly just when cold.. I didn't think a whole lot of it because I figured injector stiction. (The truck has 160,000 mi on it). There was not a noticeable miss while idling though. Last night I was driving and started to get an unresponsive throttle and it continues today after its warmed up. It does it when its cold also. Got a CEL today and went to Autozone for the code read...
U1900, P0528 & P0404
P0404 EGR valve
P0528 Fan speed sensor
U1900 ???
I am going to look at EGR valve here shortly and clean it try to get it functional again but I think it is coincidental and it doesn't have anything to do with the throttle issue...
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I got my 77 ford truck w/four wheel drive half ton with a np435, 351M and i was wondering if a bad or worn bearing can cause vibration. i can feel it by the pedal when i accelerate from 50 to 65. I don't know if that's my trans or maybe the pilot bearing?
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Ive got an 04 f150 with the 5.4 in it. It's got a problem that's got me scraching my head. When you drive the truck it will drive fine, but revs like there isn't anything there when it tries to go into overdrive. But if you turn off overdrive, it won't rev much more than 2500 rpm.. Obviously its a sensor issue, but which one?
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When my TREG is downshifting from 3rd to 2nd gear, it sometimes blips the throttle just a bit before settling into 2nd. Almost like one would do when down shifting a manual transmission.
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So have an '04 F150, 5.4l truck in the shop that has a nice clunk or bang when you tip into the throttle and the TC unlocks. Smooth as glass when you back out of it and the TCC locks back up, no shudder on lockup, nothing. No codes in the PCM, no nothing. Drives well, fuel trims are good. Truck has about 178k on it. Acts like it has an idle misfire, but you don't see it anywhere in the fuel trims or misfire data or anything else. Should I just put a converter in it? Or maybe reprogram the PCM first?
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I recently bought a 1995 Bronco. The rear axle makes a pretty awful noise. I put it on jackstands and ran it while I laid under the truck and it's coming right from the differential. It makes a constant howling noise and it felt like there was something banging against the inside of the case.
I removed the inspection cover and drained all the fluid out. It looked like chocolate milk, but the gears themselves all look fine. I didn't find any broken teeth, metal shavings, pieces of bearings, etc. in the case. It looks like a perfectly normal differential.
The truck has 166,000 miles on it and doesn't appear to be abused at all.
Here's a video I shot of the noise. You can't really hear the howling noise but the knocking sound is pretty audible. The frequency changes with the wheel speed. The sound is definitely coming from the differential.
Bronco axle - YouTube ....
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I have a 2005 Jetta 2.0L (MKIV, of course) that has been giving me some trouble lately. Very seldom while driving in the city I'll notice that instead of shifting up, the car will lose power and the accelerator becomes unresponsive. Until lately this only happens for a second or two before things go back to normal, but I just got home from work and it seemed like the engine stalled.
I was going about 40 mph or so and suddenly the accelerator stopped responding, but I looked at my dash and the battery light was on. As I pulled over and attempted to slow down I found that the brakes were also very tight. Eventually I came to a stop and restarted the car, and the rest of the drive was uneventful, but it's got me worried.
I've had a couple of CELs pop up in the past so I invested in a VAG-COM reader. I just read the codes and here's what I got:
16804
18613
00529
Is this a transmission problem? Are these codes indicating separate issues or are they all connected?
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I have a 2004 Ford F150 4x4 with 170,000 miles. its running a little rough so I thought I would clean the throttle body. do you clean it on the truck or remove it?
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read a few posts over the years relating to dirty throttle body, but never understood them. At 60000 miles, should this be attempted by the average guy or just leave it alone if it aint broke?
Any pics addressing where is it, what makes it dirty, how to open it, what to clean it with and how often as preventive maintenance?
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So my daughter has a 2006 120,000 miles Gen II Prius, she called to tell me she started driving today and although it still shows 2 bars left worth of gas while driving she said it seemed to lack power which leads me to believe that it might be fuel related, she drove a few more blocks and as soon as the battery was all used up the check engine light, traction control light the large red triangle came on then soon after the car shut down and now is unresponsive.
What is possibly wrong with it, the car is about 2 hours away so I have no way of checking the codes or is there a way to check the CEL codes from inside the car.
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I took it to a mechanic, he just told me to sprayed some carb cleaner on the throttle body and butterfly valve, and to wipe it with a rag. He did not hook a computer to it, to diagnose. and he said if the light comes on again to buy a new throttle body... I am thinking of getting throttle body sprayer taking off the throttle body replace the gasket, and hope this fixes my problem. I forgot to change my air filter btw.
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While driving home my yellow wrench light came on and I had no power at the pedal, even though the engine was idling smoothly. This happened with no warning and went away when I turned the truck off and restarted it. About 4 miles later it did it again. I immediately went to a nearby dealership only to find out my electronic throttle body needs replaced. Needless to say at this time of year 500+ dollars is not readily available, although I need my vehicle for work.
I do not know a thing about ETB's but did a little research online and found many aftermarket ones at a much better price than Ford's(surprise). My question I guess is what are my alternatives to factory replacement? Can I remove and clean this component or replace it with something of better quality? I'm not into high performance with my truck but if I could get a little better throttle response or gas mileage I'm all ears. My truck is a 2004 Supercrew 4x4 XLT w/ 5.4 Triton. Around 74,000 miles and well taken care of. Miles are nearly all highway.
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I am a dedicated Ford truck owner. Both vehicles I have had are both F150's. My first one was a 5.4L v8 03 and my current is a 5.4L v8 06 4x4, seen below.
When I bought the truck it was straight piped. I went ahead and did a GOTTS mod on it. The truck also has the factory tow package. I replaced the spark plugs and engine oil (Amsoil High Mileage). I did a couple basic things like putting in the light bar and replacing the headlight housings. Other than that it it pretty much the same as when I bought it. I cleaned the throttle body and sensors, using the proper cleaners. I ran two cans of SeaFoam through as well.
With my last truck, I 'flushed' the transmission (not a actual flush, but I changed the tranny oil about 7 times in a short period of time). A buddy suggested I do it, as it was a DOT truck and maybe wasn't treated the best. It was a automatic, just like my 06. Would that do any actual good?
I have noticed that truck has a spongy/delayed throttle response. The engine idles normally and there are no codes being thrown. I had a similar issue with my 03 but it had a cable to the pedal and I just had to tighten that up and it was better. Perhaps because of the straight pipe and GOTTS and no tune?
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I have a 2007 f150 lariat with 88000 miles on it that I just bought and during slow throttle from 40-50. I am getting a sporadic shudder right when it goes into overdrive is worse when going up a light grade it goes away when i get to about 60 and whenever i give it full throttle it acts really sluggish like the tranny is slipping but it shifts very smooth.
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When I am going about 55 my transmission sometimes starts downshifting and then up shifting again for no reason.
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My freshly rebuilt C6 with Transgo shift kit and Hughes 2500 stall converter won't downshift until I'm nearly at a dead stop. My Cruisomatic did the same thing in stock form. I roll up to an intersection and the light is green. I slow way down to negotiate the turn. I then throttle when headed straight and the tranny is still in Drive. It does the same thing when slowing way down for speed bumps. Could the shift kit or stall converter affect downshifts?
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