How to test reverse warning system sensors? My truck about 75% of the time, once i put it in reverse the system goes to off. I assumed a sensor, but can't find any major resistance differences in them.
View 9 RepliesIf I take out the stock non audiophile head unit will I lose the reverse sensor functions?
View 1 RepliesSo for 90,000 miles my reverse sensing system worked like a dream, now suddenly it shuts itself off intermittently. No codes stored in the system.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1998 Passat 1.8 T with 137k miles on it that has been throwing the P0422 code. I've reset it at Schuck's and it has come back. Car is running fine and no rattle in the catalytic converter. Although it could still be the cat, it could just as well be something with the O2 sensors. Don't have a VAG-COM tool to check them directly. Is there some way other way to determine which O2 sensor it might be and/or if it is really the cat?
View 8 RepliesI tried to get emission test on a 2006 f150 5.4 and they cant do the test as " OBD monitor not ready, how to do a force test or what to do.
View 2 Replies2008 Prius touring model, owned since Dec 212. Brake system warning light went on when our rainy season started and went off briefly, but is now on all the time.
View 2 RepliesI haven’t been on these boards very often since getting my used 2008 Prius because until now it has been very kind to me in terms of not needing mechanical repairs. Unfortunately that good streak seems to have come to an end. Driving home Monday evening (after ~30min freeway driving), my master system warning light came on, accompanied by the hybrid system warning light. I didn’t know what the latter was – had to look it up – but I immediately pulled to the shoulder. The car was driving normally, however. Since shops and dealers were closed for the evening, after much debate I ended up having the car towed to a family friend’s body shop; they were still there and had a scanner to check the error codes for me. My car was on the side of the freeway for well over an hour with hazard lights on and the dome light on and off occasionally as we got in and out of the car. By the time the tow truck arrived, I discovered that the 12V battery seemed dead; car wouldn’t boot up all the way, wouldn’t shift to neutral and didn’t want to power down – I had to try turning it off upwards of 10 times. I was surprised, given just the hazard light and limited dome light usage. We jumped it, got it in neutral and on the truck.
At the body shop, they said there were no error codes related to the hybrid battery; something about transmission that wasn’t clarified, and errors for low voltage on the 12V battery. With everything off, it measured 10-something V; something higher when turned on, but they believed the problem was a dead 12V battery. I was surprised that it would suddenly give out in the middle of driving, but we went ahead and replaced it the next day. I picked up the car Tues evening, and had no problems driving it home, to work the next morning. Unfortunately, during my drive home – strangely at almost exactly the same location as the first time – the same hybrid system warning light came back on. I’d driving about 70 miles with it off at this point before the reappearance. This time I didn’t pull over to the side (had enough of that before) but rather drove a few more miles to a parking lot where the car has now stayed overnight. I note that the car seemed to drive perfectly normally during that time; no loss of power.
I replaced my knock sensors on 2004 5.4L and now it will not idle without me keeping foot on gas. Idles down to +- 450-500 rpms. If I hold down gas pedla seems to run smooth. What to check to fix this problem?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2004 F150 5.4L 2WD auto. I had the cam phasers and timing cover done at the end of 2014 and the truck was great. Back in december, I parked the truck and when I started it the next morning, there was a horrible miss. I left it parked a month or two, then tried starting it up last week. Nothing.
So I had it towed to the shop. They found the starter was bad, and the only code it was throwing was P0341... Cam sensor bank 2. I had it towed back to my house, replaced the starter and the grounds and fired it up. It had the worst miss on the planet and died shortly after being started. I replaced both cam sensors, and now it starts right up and runs... but still has a bad miss.
I used my scanner and its still throwing A P0341 code almost instantly. It sounds like a bad miss that slightly gets better when you give it gas... but its not throwing any misfire codes or anything.
About four days ago my TPMS warning light started blinking. Same tires and sensors have been on there for quite some time. The service book says to take it to the dealer, but I instead stopped by Discount Tire (where I purchased the tires) to see if they could look and figure out which sensor was acting up.
When he ran his sensor, none of my four sensors showed up as broadcasting at all! Now I know that all four of my sensors did not just randomly go out at the same time.
I just tried doing the self test for reading the codes via the check engine light with the OBD1 system on my '93 4.0 Ranger. Problem is: When trying to mark down the flashes of the check engine light, they flash so erratically and rapidly that there is no way to accurately count. At times the light flickers so fast it never even gets to get fully bright enough to tell if it is actually a "flash" or not. I'm (again) trying to diagnose an issue with the truck starting and running fine for about 3-4 minutes and then like flipping a switch begins blubbering and belching out black smoke, check engine light flashes on/off randomly, then the engine will eventually die. It will restart provided the ignition switch is turned all the way off and attempted again, generating same results only within 30 seconds or so. If you try restarting w/o turning the ignition all the way off, it'll spin over but won't start. ECM?
View 4 RepliesI am new to a 2005 camry SE V6 3.3 lt, Today tested the security system by; locking the doors using the keyfob and waiting for 30 seconds for the system to arm itself then opening the door from inside the car. No alarm went off !!
The security Red LED on the dash works properly and shows no sign of malfunction. I am not sure how to start troubleshooting.
My 2008 2wd 4.0l XLT is having a strange power steering issue. When I start the truck and back out of my driveway it feels like I have no power steering. Within about ten seconds of putting the truck in reverse the "check charging system" warning comes on the dash. As long as it is on I have no power steering. That warning stays on for about 15-20 seconds and then goes away. As soon as it goes away power steering is restored.
I have checked my battery and it is good, it is also pretty new. The power steering fluid level is good. Based on another thread that seemed to have a similar issue I replaced the serpentine belt, the idler pulley and the belt tensioner. No changes at all to the issue. My next step is to replace the power steering pump....
On my new/used 2008 Escape XLT 2.3L 2WD. It flashes every two seconds, like the manual says. Lower left corner of instrument cluster.
But I don't recall the warning light flashing when I test drove it. But I did push the buttons on the keyfob and various places on the dash/instrument cluster to see what they did...
Is the anti-theft system an on/off affair? If so, how do I turn it off?
Just started doing this. Sometimes I can get them to turn on in I hit the button enough. Switch going bad?
View 12 RepliesIt's abnormally cold here in the Northern Va area single digits with windchills in the negatives. I ran through the car wash, one of those that hand dries it afterwards to get the salt off my truck. After running the roads I went to back in to a spot and the sensors are going off. Nothing is blocking them so I'm thinking water got inside and froze?
View 4 RepliesMy 2004 Honda Accord wouldn't start this morning. Immobilization indicator was blinking. After a bit, it started just fine, as the indicator stopped blinking. My thinking at this time was that it had rained torrentially the previous night, maybe some moisture had got into the circuitry and caused a little 'hiccup.' Then, as I drove, about 5 minutes later, the car started trying to stall. The check engine light came on, then the battery light came on and flashed. The engine ran erratically. Both check engine and battery lights started blinking erratically. At one point the dash beeped at me, like the warning sound it makes when the emergency brake is on while the car is moving. This got worse as I drove. I pulled over to the nearest shop. 2 hours of looking at the car, they said the camshaft sensor and the alternator needed to be replaced. .
View 9 RepliesI recently bought a 2008 F250 with the 6.4 diesel indirectly from a dealership. The truck itself has 220,000ish kilometers, but the engine (as well as the turbos) are Ford reman that had about 12,000km when I bought it and I have only put about 6500km on it. It is already leaking oil but that is for another thread.
The reverse sensors, steering wheel controls and part of the stock 6cd radio have never worked. The towing system has errors as well. The fuel level sensor often has problems reading the new level after I put in fuel, but that is always fixed by disconnecting the batteries and forcing a hard reset.
I figured the steering wheel/cruise control problem was due to either a broken clock spring and/or the brake pressure switch. I replaced both those as well as the airbag because the horn relay failed closed when I put it back in the wheel. It did not fix the problem. The steering wheel buttons still intermittently illuminate, but the radio controls and cruise control buttons do not function regardless. The truck isn't giving any codes either.
The towing system will activate lights and brakes on a trailer as well as set the gain, but it will not detect that it is actually hooked to a trailer. I cleaned the pins, but I haven't looked any further into it. No codes for this as well.
The reverse sensors/system does not work. It will lock itself in "off". I am guessing this is because one or more of the sensors have failed, but I am skeptical that it would be just that given the trucks other problems.
The radio does work, but the auxiliary input/mode will not work. I ran the diagnostics on the radio and on 'Test 1' I got "SELF FAIL B1342 ECU" and "B2477 CONFIG". I tried to clear the codes, but I can't. I think this means the radio is kill.
When I put the truck into reverse, sometimes the rear park assist sensors go off for no reason, sometimes they work correctly. Is there a way to narrow down which sensor it might be, or just replace the lot?
View 5 RepliesDoes the Ford emblem/camera just pop off the tailgate with a screw driver? Pry from top or bottom? I'm trying not to break anything here. I removed the tailgate panel inside and can't get any access there.
Both the camera and reverse sensors have quit working. I'm troubleshooting both but I'm not sure they are related. The camera died first but worked sometimes after slamming the tailgate. Sensors quit sometime after. Don't really care about the sensors but the camera is essential for hooking up the trailers.
I was hoping the wiring from the tailgate to the plug would be cut but that doesn't appear to be the case. I'd like to check the camera itself next. Ohm it out or something, I don't know.
My reverse sensors have stopped working. As soon as you put in reverse, the on off button will light up and be telling you that it is off. What is going on and how do I correct this?
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