Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Tapping Noise Noticeable At Idle
Jun 19, 2015
I've got an 06 F150 5.4, and its making some noise. It has a constant tapping noise that can be more easily heard when I'm attempting to order my fries at the drive thru. The issue is, I'm having some difficulty identifying it. The tapping noise is very noticeable at idle, and becomes sickeningly loud at approximately 1000 rpm (in neutral) and almost disappears after 1200 rpm. i know for sure that it is not the normal noisy injectors, and it sounds too distinct to be a lash adjuster or lifter. I have not been around a truck with bad cam phasers to know what it sounds like. I don't want to start throwing parts at it until i know where to look.
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My 06 f150 5.4 3v has developed this miss in the last 1000 miles which is very annoying and fuel consuming. Its most noticeable at idle where the engine quivers and at highway rpms where it will start to vibrate when being slightly worked. I have already changed the cops and plugs, and there are no codes coming up.
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F150 2007 5.4 tapping from idle to infinity driver side wheel wellI have read thought a ton of these post and my head is spinning I have used 10w30 from 10,000 to 100,000 with lucas then 20w50 with lucas current 150,000 miles changed oil every 5000 +/- a few It taps when I first crank up cold or hot, it taps at 0 degrees or 200 degrees, it tapps at 800 rpms or when im really mad at 5800 rpms and never stops it is really loud at the driver side wheel well its not the injectors, coils, plugs, exhaust i have been all over, under, and around the truck hot, cold, day, night, and even threatened to empty my .45 clip on it and it refuses to tell me what is going on and cannot found a resolution I could deal with it but pulling up to the drive through window and it echoing back at me has me ready to order a create motor.
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My truck has 91,000 miles and started last week with a tapping noise one the right side. Mechanic said could be cam phaser, lifters or crank case problem....
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I just bought an '04 F150 from a friend. It has 250K miles on it. When I got the truck there were no tapping noises coming from the engine. Now that I changed the oil, at start up till about 5 miles down the road, I hear the tapping noise. I put Castrol high mileage 5W-20 in it. Could it just be the oil I'm using or something more expensive?
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I have a loud tapping noise in my 07 5.4 triton. when its really cold on the first start up I cant here the noise but when it gets warm its tap tap tap again.
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2005 F-150 4.6L 2WD, 268,000 miles....
Recently I got a flashing 'Check Engine' light and a rough running engine (along with a tapping noise) when I was passing someone (and pulling a trailer). I retrieved codes 300, 304, & 305. I can't swear to it, but I think the tapping noise started at the same time as the coil problem.
I replaced coils #4 & #5 (later that same day) and the engine smoothed back out but the tapping noise is still hanging around. The noise speeds up at higher RPM's and doesn't go away if I shift into neutral. Oil level and pressure are fine and I only use Motorcraft 5W-20 and Motorcraft filters (and change the oil every 5K miles).
Not sure if this is relevant: I think I have bad valve guide seals (blue smoke after long idles) but no other problems that I am aware of. It sort of sounds like a lifter, but is there a good way to pin it down? Is it possible that this tapping is related to the bad coils?
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In this video I go over in detail the procedure to swap out the Cam Phaser to get rid of that annoying knocking noise at idle! It is easier than you think. The procedure is the same for all 4.6l and 5.4l 3valve engines.
Ford 4.6l 3v & 5.4L 3v Camshaft Phaser Knocking Noise Fix - YouTube...
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I have a 2004 ford f150 5.4l v8 triton lariat and while at idle it has a ticking noise like this video
YouTube...
However I also have a rattling noise when decelerating at around 2000 rpms that sounds like a loose chain in a box. Not sure if its VCT sensor or cam phasers ...
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I just got done with 2007 5.4 Triton with cam phaser noise. I replaced phaser, timing chains ,tensioner, oil pump, and it still made noise at idle when it was hot so a change the oil to 0w40 and my noise went away. 5w20 starts to brake down at temp of 180 but 0w40 works up to 212 ford will tell you all you need is 25psi of oil pressure what I have seen is you need at least 40psi of oil pressure so if you have noise try 0w40 mobil1....
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I have a 2005 F150 with the 5.4 in it and its getting ready to hit 90k here soon. I just bought the truck less than a month ago and Ive developed a very loud knock at idle. It sounds like it's coming from down in the oil pan. That's where I can hear it the best. When I give it gas and it reaches about 1400rpm it goes away to where I can't hear it. What would this be? I checked the oil level and its fine. I thought at first maybe it was just a heat shield from the cats loose and rattling but its gotten worse and louder. I'm not driving it until Monday when I take it back to the dealer because I still have some warranty left but I would like to know what I'm looking at maybe. This isn't the cam phasers is it? I've read somewhere that these motors don't get good oil pressure in the heads some places?
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Anyway, I recently purchaced (as a 2nd car to the near indestructible 95 camry) a 2010 Altise, 4 cylinder 2.4L engine with multi-point fuel injectors. Runs like a dream, purrs like a kitten, can't fault it.
However, I have noticed that on idle, the top of the engine emits a very fine tapping noise, not majorly prominent, but enough to notice with the hood up and wonder if it's a potential problem.
Have been told that it could just be the multi point injectors, but I'm more concerned that it's a valve / oil pressure thing. No oil warning lights or anything like that appear and oil level is good. Service logs are up to date with last service under warranty being January this year.
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have been lurking the forum for the last several months ever since I bought my 2008 F150. I bought it used from a dealership and have had it at their shop no less than seven times since I bought it in March, all for the same things.
The first thing I noticed shortly after buying the truck was that after the truck warmed up it would idle rough. My chief complaint by far, I took the truck in to be looked at and this is when all the real fun began. Similarly I had intermittent power steering that I asked to have looked at.
I was told the fuel filter was completely clogged. They cleaned it and assured me all was well. They also bled the power steering system because apparently someone had changed the PS pump and not bled the system afterwards. I got into the truck to leave and it was idling no better than when I dropped it off. I complained again and was told that "this is just how this truck idles" and called BS. They offered to have the throttle body cleaned for me the next day to alleviate any remnants of rough idle.
Had the throttle body cleaned the next day and took the truck home. After about an hour or two I was still thoroughly dissatisfied with the idle and called back to complain. I forgot to mention that I bought my truck from a Chevrolet dealer who had just taken it in on trade about three days before I bought it. Because I complained they offered to send the truck to a Ford dealership for further diagnosis.
The Ford dealership found fouled plugs, a cracked intake manifold and the water pump and fan clutch both had excessive play. They said those would create a rocking sensation which could be misinterpreted as a rough idle. Over $2500 the Chevy dealership paid them and I was called to come pick up the truck.
I didn't even make it out of the parking lot because the truck was whining something fierce. I couldn't believe no one QC'd the vehicle and complained again. Next morning I am called and they said that the Ford dealership had put the intake manifold gasket in wrong and it had been corrected and I could come pick up the truck.
I go pick up the truck and note that not only is the idle still not right, but now the truck is making a hissing/squealing noise when the truck hits 1800/1900 RPM's. Its strange because its not really RPM specific as it is specific to the pedal position. Accelerating or decelerating causes it to go away but its there nonetheless. Whats worse is that in highway driving at 65 MPH, the pedal is in just the wrong position and it hisses constantly. This sound never goes away...and once its been heard its impossible to unhear.
I complain again and they send the truck back to the Ford dealership. At this point I'm dealing directly with the Director of Service because mine has become a high priority case. The Service Director drives with me, confirms my problem and takes the truck himself to Ford. He drives with their shop foreman and they too confirm the problem.
A week goes by and Ford tells him its wind noise. This is complete bullarky because it happens whether I'm going 20 or 65. He calls them on it and they keep the truck another couple days. They call back and say the truck has nothing mechanically wrong with it and that they are done. Service Director goes and picks up the truck and takes it to a second Ford dealership.
Three days go by and they call and claim Eureka! We've found the problem! Clogged catalytic converter causing air flow restrictions. They replace two converters and I go to pick up the truck. It runs like garbage. Further the sound is still there. Call Chevy, leave the truck and take their loaner back home. Next morning Ford's Foreman calls and basically tells me that there's nothing else wrong with my truck and that he even reprogrammed the PCM (which is why it runs to bad all the time now I guess) to get rid of the idle problems.
Long story short here's everything thats been done:
- Cleaned a clogged fuel filter
- Replaced fouled plugs
- Replaced the intake manifold and gaskets
- Replaced the fan belt
- Replaced the fan clutch
- Replaced the water pump
- Replaced two catalytic converters
- Cleaned the throttle body
- Bled the PS system
- Reprogrammed the PCM and transmission control module
After all of this I still have a hissing sound when I accelerate (video 1:
It seems the truck runs worse once its warmed up and even worse once the AC is turned on. I'm sure he programmed the PCM wrong and thats what is causing the truck to run rough.
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I recently got Gibson Performance Headers on my 2006 Ford F150. And when you cold start it or just start it period it has a odd ticking noise on the passenger side.
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My car ( 2.4L 2008 Camry ) is making a tapping noise while in gear and stopped. If I rev it slightly, start moving, or move it out of gear the noise will go away.
I was able to trace the noise to the hard pipes attached to the radiator for the transmission cooler. In particular the ~6in one that runs towards the center of the radiator.
A part of the body directly below the hard pipe was slightly bent up and hitting the hard pipe.
A quick way to verify this is the root cause of your noise is by getting a buddy (or chocking) the wheels with parking brake engaged then put the car in gear and manipulate the radiator. Be very careful when doing this I am not responsible for property damage or bodily harm due to this troubleshooting technique.
Pressing down on the top rubber isolators or putting some pressure on the fan shroud should stop the tapping noise.
On my car I persuaded the metal and added some foam strips to prevent to noise. If I press down on the radiator it sometimes will comes back. If this bothers me more I will need to pull the radiator and do a more thorough examination.
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Just purchased a 2008 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport with <60K miles for my son. The car is in great shape (body/interior) EXCEPT it probably needs a "new"/rebuilt engine. It started making a tap-tap-tap noise and the mechanic that looked at it said it was an internal engine noise; that they would not tear apart the engine to determine the cause, but install a rebuilt engine ...
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2000' GMC safari's electrical system. To begin, she has 95,000mi, an although that's about a year old, a duralast gold battery about the same age, and 13.8 volts at idle on the meter at the battery. The problem, over the past couple of weeks, I'll start it and drive off as normal, an the thing wants to stall for about two seconds. After that, no problem whatsoever. One time, it actually did stall on me, and everything went dead for a couple of minutes, no juice whatsoever; noticed that even the clock in the radio read 12:00. After a few minutes, I tried to turn the key again, and it started right up. This a.m., I went to start the van, and it initially would not turn over. The started motor turned but in a weak manor. At that point we went completely dead again, no electricity whatsoever.
The strangest thing is what happened next, I pulled the hood latch release as I was about to investigate and noticed the guages on the dash move when I did, power was back. The van then started but barely, and when it did it stumbled for a few seconds before driving off without so much as a hiccup the rest of the day. The only other possibly related symptom would be a slight rough idle combined with a just noticeable dimming of the dash lights in the dark at idle. Also, I should mention that I have checked the battery terminals and they are tight and clean, the van is in excellent shape mechanically, averaging 20mpg combined, smooth acceleration, no leaks, "using oil", white or black smoke, etc. Plugs, cap, rotor, and pcv are recent. Egr and maf are both clear.
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I've got a 2007 Touring with 40k miles on it. Never had any issues until about 2k miles ago, when we started noticing noise while driving on the freeway. The higher the speed, the louder the noise. It starts to be noticeable at about 40mph and gets really annoying at 65 - 75mph. It seemed to come from the RH-side, and the dealer was quick to blame it on out-of-alignment tires. Dealer 'investigation' was about 2k miles ago.
We've changed and aligned the tires this week; alignment on all four corners was almost within tolerances (off by a small amount). I've also changed the oil, since it was due.
Nevertheless, the noise is still there; now it seems to have 'moved' directly in front of the driver. What could it be?
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Just like the tittle says. My 2011 ISF with 56k miles on it is making a Clunking noise when pulling out of a parking spot or just anytime I fully steer to the left side and begin to move. If I try it in reverse it doesn't matter if I turn the steering wheel fully to left or right it makes the same noise as I begin to move at slow speed. It almost feels like something is pushing the front wheels out. During normal driving I don't feel anything at all, just as steady as solid the car can be.
Is there any common issues with ISF with premature wear of ball joints, cv joint, sway bar bushings or hub bearing?
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this has been an outstanding van, quite reliable. it has about 115,000 miles on it. Recently, I've noticed that the transmission makes a 'tapping' noise when it shifts or downshifts. every gear has that same slight 'tap'. the tranny shifts fine, smooth, but this sound worries me a bit. any chance this could be a u-joint issue?
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I've got a 2004 Jeep Wrangler SE 5-speed with 83,000 miles on the 2.4l PowerTech engine in it, and it's making a very strange noise that I can't pinpoint.
So first, the noise itself. It sounds like a metallic tapping or ratcheting, like the sound of raising of a large chain hoist. Fairly high-pitched, audible inside and out. Not incredibly loud (I have to point it out to passengers) but loud enough to bother the hell out of me. The closest I can come with location is "somewhere under the hood."
However, the noise is only present under certain conditions:1. The transmission must be in gear. Forward or reverse doesn't matter. Revving engine at idle does not produce the noise.2. The transmission must be under load, i.e. when accelerating or releasing the clutch in 1st to begin driving. Letting off the gas stops the noise.3. The noise only exists somewhere between 1k and 2.5k rpms. Application of throttle at any road speed in any gear with the engine in that RPM range produces the noise. 4. The frequency of the tapping increases with engine speed. 5. Ambient temperature appears to have no effect, but as engine temperature increases the noise tends to disappear. Not always, though, as it shows up sometimes when the engine is completely up to operating temperature. 6. I don't notice any kind of performance issues related to the noise. Power's normal (for a 2.4l Chrysler 4-banger, that is) and gas mileage is within the EPA estimates.
Things I've investigated:1. I'm pretty sure it's not lifter noise. A bottle of Seafoam made it run better, but the noise persists. 2. I've checked the catalytic converter heat shield. It's on tight. I found the flange where the exhaust manifold meets the downpipe was a bit loose, but tightening it down didn't eliminate the noise. Getting underneath and shaking the hell out of every component of the exhaust system I can reach produces no results.3. Engine mounts show normal wear. Transmission mount appears fine. 4. No check engine light, and all gauges read normal. Hooked up a code reader for fun and it came back with nothing.
As the noise only shows up while driving, I can't just crawl under there and poke around. The best I can do while driving is feel for related vibration, which gives me nothing. Whatever causing it, it's not transferring up through the stick.
In the may-or-may-not-be-related category, I've got a bit of oil consumption and a clunky transmission, but according to the various Jeep forums I've found, those seem to be fairly normal.
We got some snow the other day, and as I cleared it off I allowed the car to warm up for about 20 minutes. When I got in and drove it, the noise was greatly reduced. Not gone, but barely perceptible.
I spent a couple hours on YouTube the other day, trying to compare my noise to videos of other Jeeps with drivetrain issues, and found nothing even close to similar. Whatever's making this noise, it's not common.
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