Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Taking Off Cats?
Mar 22, 2008
I went to a couple custom exhaust shops to see about duals for my 04 f150. they gave me a price all were different ranging from 250 to 480 for the same set up. Cat back flow master 44 series dual out the back. I asked them if they can take the cats off and they said no and it would lose performance. is this true? i saw a couple videos on youtube.com and there was some with no cats. I kinda want to get true duals. So is it possible or not for this truck.
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5.4L 3v engine: The PCV is located in the drivers side valve cover. Tried to pull it out with no success and came to the conclusion that maybe it's threaded and a nut locks it in from the underside of the valve cover. Can this thing be replaced without taking off the valve cover?
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Looking at a truck at a dealership. 04 F150 Lariat 5.4 3v? 2wd SuperCrew 148k miles. Bone stock besides the bedliner.
Truck is pretty nice besides these 4 things. Kind of a shudder when taking off from a stop or a very slow speed. Adjustable pedals don't work.
New brakes, but possibly the rears are dragging a bit. Was able to turn them in neutral and the rear on jacks. Extra, guessing because of the newer looking battery, some systems lack data from the OBD2
I'm mainly concerned about the shudder from a complete stop/1-2mph. At the dealer, to leave the lot, the driveway was elevated. I think it showed very well climbing that hill. As it was noticed and played with the gas a bit. Otherwise, you stomp the gas, it may shudder for a second or two, (3-5 times?) once it hits about 3000 rpm in 1st, its fine. Only ever seemed to do it in 1st and never any other gear, never on any gear changes.
We lifted the rear end up on a jack and fiddled around. Put it in neutral and spun the wheels, tried to mess with the drive shaft... According to dad, who was looking at it with me said it was fine and that it's normal to have a little bit of slop, but I didn't notice any real slop myself, tried to push on the driveshaft on the transmission side and I think it may have moved a bit but it didn't feel loose or clang or anything. Although I didn't get to push on it too hard because he was rotating the driveshaft at the time.
I assume new fluids in engine and trans. My dad said something about old oil marks on the transmission pan area or something. Both to the fill line.
One thing that I wonder about is how long this truck has been sitting. I wonder about the differential clutches. I'm not that sure what it really has for the rear end. But google had mention of clutch packs in the rear. I wonder if because it's been sitting that the oil has settled out of the clutches or something. There was a mess of silicon on the rear diff cap area. Couldn't tell if it was new or not. I think we put 10-20 miles on it at least and only looked under it for maybe a half hour... Still did the clunk/shudder at a start from a stop, when we returned it.
So, what could be causing this clunk/chatter when talking off from a stop/1-2mph roll?
Axle wrap?
Differential Clutches?
Differential?
Driveshaft?
Transmission?
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Deleting the cats from the stock headers ? would there be any power gain or loss ?
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how much HP is there expected to be with adding high flow cats?
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2005 5.4L She would have a hard time starting before but after I replaced and fixed everything below she was running really good. Now back to sputtering, taking a long time to start and now not starting at all.
I have replaced; Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, FPDM, Plugs and COP's, FRP Sensor, followed the power wire from the FDPM and found it corroded bad so I replaced it, also changed the ground location on the FDPM, I have checked all the wires from the FDPM to the drivers seat, checked all fuses.
I have power to FPDM and I have the diagram for the plug but how can I test (hotwire) the Fuel Pump without lowering the fuel tank? What should be the voltage coming from the FPDM plug? not sure about pin 1 & 6.
How can I test the FRP sensor? what are the specs for voltage?
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I have a 2008 4wd V8 Ford Explorer Limited. About 9 months ago I had both front wheel bearings replaced. Immediately after they were replaced, I noticed a strange, new symptom. When taking off from a stop (either headed straight or turning), about 10-20% of the time I will get some wheel slippage.
I can feel the gears slipping, I don't think the tires are actually spinning and I'm definitely not flooring it and losing traction due to engine torque. When this slippage occurs, the loss of traction light goes on, and it always goes away in a matter of seconds and then everything is fine.
Once I noticed this happening I took it to the Ford dealership but they couldn't diagnose it since I couldn't mimic the problem with them riding in the car. They said it shouldn't have anything to do with the wheel bearings they replaced, but I think there may be an electrical connection that wasn't re-attached properly??
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2002 explorer 4.0 Non supercharged. no power unless you disconnect the dpfe sensor. Suspect clogged cats. Am I barking up the wrong tree? How do I verify its the cats?
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I am getting my truck back today after all the work that has been done to it over the past 3 weeks, and well, I have always wanted to gut my cats, but have been worried to waste the cats buy gutting them and didnt want to cause a disturbence in the airflow by gutting them, so i figured atleast if i was aching to be illegal and gut them, the least i could do is just remove them, but my question is, will it mess the o2 sensors up? Currently the o2 sensors arnt connected to the cats at all, so my feelings is it wouldn't mess with the truck or would it? I was thinking of just removing the two cats in the true dual, and replacing the segments with pieces of pipe, would that be sufficient?
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Would a high flow cat on my 97 f250 7.5l make any more performance and would it make it any louder? My truck has the air tubes on it so its hard to find a cat for it.
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Grease the tailshaft unit, or replace the entire shaft. I'll grease it tonight, what type of grease to use?
Lexus techs charge too much for parts/labour here, so i would like to attempt to sort this out myself.
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I have an 2012 isf with sikky headers and borla exhaust, and my left header hits the frame of my car when I'm taking off.
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So I was getting p0420 and p0430. I installed new hi flow cats on and did coil pack 1 & 3 since I was getting misfires there. Erased the codes after all the installs and they stayed off. It's been a little over a month later since the installs and my CEL came back on, scanned it and I'm getting same 2 codes again
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I had my local race shop install my new PPE headers and how I have a rubbing and grinding sound while taking right turns. They have had the car for a few extra days and they say they cant seem to find the cause of the problem. It rattles on a pot hole, it grinds on right turns and sometimes vibrates on highway cruise control driving.
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So I just had both cats replaced and now the car is running very rough and trowing out mis-fire codes. What could cause this? Going to disconnect the battery to reset the computer to see if that might work.
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I own a Vw Phaeton 3.0 TDI 2004. A few days ago , everytime i take the ignition key of the car , the car 'dies' ( headlights , radio , doors , alarm... ) and it stops working for a couple of minutes. When i put the key again , the car starts working and everything works 100% but if i remove the key again , the car dies again. The car runs fine if i ride it a whole day , no problems at all. The following day , the car dies again. What's wrong with it?
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I have a gasoline V-6 2004 Touareg. It hesitates a little when taking off lightly or heavily from a start. I took it in and just told dealer to fix it. They replaced the (electronic accelerator connection)?? It made it maybe 25% better. What to do. Mileage is at 60K. MPG is about 13.5 in town. 18 on highway.
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I have a noise problem in the front area. It sounds like a airplane taking off and landing. The sounds happen when the SUV is moving, even at rolling speed. It started with a very low noise which at first I thought might be a tire issue but about a month later it was very obvious that it isn't. (This is my wife's SUV, she just drive).
The SUV idles and drives fine still with front oem shocks. I have not inspect the breaks or rotors yet but they are breaking just fine with no squeak. It did get a aftermarket axle shaft on the right side. The noise is about even on both side.
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Well I figured out a way to do fluid change without taking down the pan... just use a pump and suction out and then refill with pumper...
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I've been getting some "heat shield like" sounding rattle from the underside of the car when taking off. It seems to be coming from under the engine area, I don't think it's the heat shield over the cat since I've had that before and that was the first thing I checked, it's all tight. Is there another shield under the engine that can cause this?
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I have 2005 Prius, 53K miles on it. Bought it as used car few months ago. It has been running great since then.
Since last few weeks I have been hearing a soft beep every time I take foot off the brake. Today I had my windows down while driving and I realized that the soft beep is actually a loud noise like squeak or beep. I can hear a noise every time I take foot off the brake (NOT when putting foot on the brake).
Anyone can standing near the car or other car drivers at red-light can hear the sound too.. This happens when- the Car is in D, I take foot off the accelerator and press the brake (to slow down or complete stop) then take foot off the brake.
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