Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Stumble While Going Down The Road Between 40 - 60 MPH
May 29, 2012
My boss' truck has a bit of a stumble. While going down the road between 40-60 MPH it will kind of stumble. While it's an intermittent problem, it seems to happen when climbing a slight grade. I plugged a diagnostic tool into it and got no codes of any kind. He had it at a trans shop, thinking there might be some trans slippage, but the shop said the trans was fine. The vehicle in question is a 2006 F-150 Lariot 2WD with a 5.4, auto trans...
View 9 Replies
Advertisement
First, a little background on my truck. 2007 with 5.4, 122000 miles, oil changes with 5-20 Motorcraft and Motorcraft filters, plugs done by dealer 40000 miles ago. The truck has developed a ticking noise, kind of like a lifter (I know these engines don't have lifters) that is most noticeable from the side of the truck near wheel. ticking speeds up with the rpm. Also around same time, between 40-55 under load there is a bit of a stumble, but I can gas thru it. I'm guessing these are related. I'm thinking spark plugs again, but shouldn't I get more than 40000 out of them? I might just take it in, since I've got oil leak somewhere around back of the oil pan, but figured maybe might get some clues first. Also, no CEL.
View 4 Replies
I have an '03 Aviator that has this really odd stumble / shutter while driving down the road. It loses power and feels like it is going to stall. This is very intermittent and not obvious at idle. Sometimes on hills, sometimes just cruising along. I did some reading and thought maybe I had an ignition coil(s) going bad.
I took the covers off the coils and pulled them out. Six of them looked perfect with one being newly replaced by Ford. Two of them had a thin film of oil mist on them both outside on the rubber boot and inside the rubber boot. I wiped them off and put them back in. There was no oil down in the plug bores and the valve cover gasket looked good. The plugs looked good too.
Is there any way to actually test these? If the problem is intermittent I am not sure if they would fail a test until they got hot from use. I do not have any lights or codes.
View 14 Replies
i just picked up an 06 f150 with 5.4l 4x4 xlt package. Love the truck as it is my 1st Ford HOWEVER..... the truck is running super rough at idle and keep getting code for cylinder 5 misfire and bank 2 lean (which i am assuming is from cyl 5). here is what i have done so far...
New Coil packs
New spark plugs
New fuel module
New fuel injector on cyl 5
Still has a "stumble" when accelerating around 45 mph and shows code for cyl 5 misfire then will then throw code for bank 2 lean.
View 10 Replies
I have an 04 f150 fx4 with a 5.4 v8 and it has 125k miles on it. This morning I was driving to work and when I was going down the express way it cut out for about 2 seconds then power slowly came back after about 5 seconds, when it happens I'm either cruising or accelerating lightly. Also when it first cuts out, my headlights flicker, and when I got off the expressway and was almost to work the truck stalled completely after I stopped it started up and I was able to get to work.
View 7 Replies
The noise is related to vehicle speed, not engine speed. Easiest to hear when all is quite coasting at 30mph. Sounds like the front. It just started the other day.
The noise sounds like moan from airplanes high ahead (think WW2 movies). I replaced the front springs and shocks a few thousand miles ago and did not get it realigned. No noise until now. The tires are good and feel smooth (no sign of cupping, feathering,..). It is 4wd. How best to tell if it is wheel bearing? Rear end? Get it aligned?
View 14 Replies
My Dad has a 2004 F150 with the 5.4L. Going down the road it just up and quit, when would not even turn over (no starter click or anything), all lights seem to be working and nothing out of the ordinary on the gauges. Mechanic found fuel pump fuse blown then fuel pressure still low, so changed fuel pump. Still not running....
View 2 Replies
When driving my 2006 F150 it drives real smooth until I hit 50, then it feels like I'm driving on a slightly bumpy road, once I hit 55, smooths out again. Only drives strange at 50 mph. Other speeds smooth as glass.
View 3 Replies
We have an 07 F150 XL reg cab. Having problem with the doors rattling going down a dirt or bumpy road. They sound almost as if door weren't shut rite even though they are slammed shut. We took it in to the dealer and they said they adjusted and replaced door stops but we still have the same problem. plus they said they could not duplicate.
View 14 Replies
My F150 has started whining while driving down the road or sitting still. It gets louder as the RPMs increase. I have also noticed that the transmission has started taking longer / slipping going into 2nd gear. I also smelled the transmission fluid and it has an "odd" odor to it. Could the transmission going out cause this noise?
Here is a vid of the noise : 05 f150 - YouTube....
View 6 Replies
Transmission trouble on an 2006 F150 5.4 triton ... The problem I am having is when you are driving down the road once you hit 30 mph and it goes to shift into the its like it goes into neutral. It does that rill you slow back down to a lower speed then it shifts back down the transmission picks right back up till you get up to speed again, then it like it goes into neutral again. When I turn overdrive off it won't shift out of second gear. I have changed the valve body to the transmission to no success.
View 3 Replies
2005 f150 super cab, 5.4 liter, 4x4 107k miles. I have a 12 bolt rear differential and the tag on the door has an axle code of "B6". No noise under power or braking but if your driving along flat road and not much power is needed to keep the truck moving then there is a hum almost sounds like faint grinding but not quite. The differential housing gets hot to touch after a 30 mile drive down the interstate.
My brother was the previous owner and this has made the noise for years so it's not critical but annoying. I removed the dif. cover to change the oil. All the teeth are smooth, no rough or grinding surfaces. No play at the wheel end so I don't believe its a bad bearing. Oil was used but not burnt up or sludgy and very few metal flakes at bottom of housing. Thought it looked good for the age. Also, both wheels off ground and truck in neutral. There seems to be a lot of resistance while turning the wheel. I don't think the brakes are dragging but will eliminate that possibility this weekend.
What rear axle I have. Why its making the noise? How to repair it? Is this a posi diff?
View 5 Replies
I have a 2007 F150 XLT, Supercab 6.5' bed, 4x4 5.4 Automatic with 67000 miles on it. Its not a Flex Fuel
Over the past couple of weeks it would get go through random rough idling spell or stall going down the road. If it was sitting it would idle clear down to 200 RPM's and just sound like an old 'chitty-chitty-bang-bang' car, not a modern marvel of Ford engineering!
I noticed it particularly does it this on an incline. Initially I fixed it by just coasting to where it was flat. I normally keep it above half a tank so i dont think its a fuel pump not getting fed. So I replaced the fuel filter yesterday hoping it was full or clogged, no changed.
This morning it would start at all, I removed the negative terminal on the battery, rolled to the level, tried it 30 times. Nothing. I checked all of my connectors under the hood and the 2 below the cab under the plastic cover. Everything was connected. I disconnected the fuel pressure sensor and it fired right up and runs smoother than since I've owned it.
It hasn't had any CEL lights, until I disconnected that sensor. Should I drop the tank and clean it? Is there any special gasket kits or connectors I should be aware of? Should I just replace that sensor? Is it connected with a chain of sensors I should check first?
View 2 Replies
New to my 2008 GX470. 100k miles. Love it so far. However I think I am hearing a intermittent rumbling as I drive down the road. It is like the rumble from a radio base sound. It could be normal road noise but I bet it is not.
I have replaced the left front axle (grease boot broken), replaced the rotors and pads, replaced all differential and transfer case fluids (not transmission yet) and inspected all the suspension parts.
View 8 Replies
I have a 2004 f350 6.0 it has 73000 miles on it. I've had the truck for about a month and its developed a slight stumble, hesitation. It does it during idle and acceleration, if I give it more throttle it smooths out. The cel is not on and there are no stored codes.It did this a few days after i bought it,i noticed the map sensor was broke in half so i replaced that and it smoothed out.But it came back. Exhaust is clean no white or black smoke at all.
View 11 Replies
I have the 5.3L FLEX Fuel with 98K miles. I have purchased this 2nd hand and having a slight idle stumble when in park as well as in drive @ a stop light...etc. If i am under way, the vehicle runs flawlessly. When i am idling with the brake on or in park, there is a slight stumble that is driving me crazy. I have replaced the high dollar IRIDIUM plugs but did not replace the wires...they looked fine. I did clean the throttle body. I get fuel from different places and it does not make a difference. I have not cleaned the fuel system professionally but I have used OTC additives such as SeaFoam. No codes are exhibited on a diagnostic computer or any updates available for that matter.
View 11 Replies
2004 accent, manual, 114k miles. for the last 2-3 years it had a slight stumble at idle, and it was getting 36-38 mpg mostly highway. As part of a check on the starter function, I carefully cleaned the corrosion off of both thick wires going to the starter solenoid. When I started it again, the stumble was gone. Then, after almost 400 miles of mostly hy driving, my mileage was 42+. It has never been that high. Is it possible that the corroded wires caused both a stumble and increased fuel consumption? I did nothing else to the car, and most of the hy driving was freeway at very high speed.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2004 Pontiac Montana with 90K. If the overnight temperature has been below 40ish, there is a noticeable hesitation or stumble (almost as if the engine cuts out for a second-but never actually stalls out) on the 2 to 1 downshift when braking to a stop while the vehicle is in open loop. As the engine warms up the stumble becomes less noticeable until the temp gauge reaches the 1/4 mark at which point the stumble is gone. It won't return until the following morning - the next cold start. Our mechanic has cleaned the Throttle Body and the MAF- no change. Their transmission guy said he did not think it was a tranny issue. It has no other symptoms and seems to shift normally at all other times. What to do next??
View 11 Replies
I have a 100% stock 2004 Celica GT ~125,000 miles. Over the last few months I have been getting a rough idle and stumble at low rpms. The other day the car would not restart after sitting for about 20 minutes. Only recently has it actually thrown a DTC. The error codes were for misfires (P0300, P0301,P0302,P0303, P0304). I don’t get a code every time but the problem seems to be more noticeable if the car has been ran for a while, sits for 20-30 minutes while in a store and then when I try to start it when I come out of the store is when the problem most often occurs. When it restarts it will stumble at low RPM and if I hit the gas it has little response and misses badly. I have never used a scanner until now. I am using a Autel MS509 scanner and I am not sure it is giving me the correct diagnostic numbers for the live data. I think the DTC are correct but the live data is questionable.
Here is what I have done so far.
- Cleaned IAC valve (completely removed and cleaned)
- Searched for vacuum leaks using carb cleaner
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Replaced all 4 injectors
- Replaced upstream and downstream O2 sensors
- Replaced Coolant Temp Sensor
- Ensured cam tensioner is providing adequate pressure to the cam chain
- Tried 2 sets of new Iridium NGK plugs and a new set of Bosch Copper plugs
- Moved coil packs around
- New air filter
- New fuel filter
- SeaFoam through intake and gas tank. I have not mixed in the oil.
- Compression Test (1=190,2=190,3=160,4=178)
Things I have not done.
- Taken it to the stealership
- Fuel pressure test
- Valve Clearance
I am concerned about the compression test because according to the service manual it should be around 218. I was using a Harbor Freight compression tester and I am not 100% sure I had a good seal with the tester.
View 14 Replies
What could cause this? I have 100k and I only notice this if in park or neutral at 1500rpms. It goes away before and after and it seems to drive very smoothly. I had a bad alternator and I just replaced it but the "new" one is making a high pitching ringing so I'm having the shop change that out for a new oem. Any chance it's the alternator or could this be something else. I have sea foamed the throttle body recently and cleaned the maf recently and changed the air filter. I didn't do plugs but they are do at 120k
View 7 Replies
I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
View 2 Replies