Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Strange Noise Occurs Intermittently And Blown Fuse
Apr 18, 2014
This is very weird. A strange noise occurs intermittently. It sort of sounds like a pulley slipping on a steel shaft briefly followed by a brief rattling noise and may or may not blow out fuse number 14 (A/C Pressure switch, backup lamp and daytime running lights, redundant speed control heated pcv, ABS, Reverse park aid, EC Mirror), then the brake light and the ABS light is displayed and the cruise control quits working. It does not ALWAYS blow out the fuse as I discovered yesterday.
The first time it happened (about three months ago) I was doing 75 when it happened and was unable to figure out what it was. Yesterday it happened and I new it was fuse number 14. I replaced the fuse and it happened again within 3 minutes. It may be when I turn the wheel to the left. The first time it happened I was changing lanes, yesterday when it happened I was on a ramp turning to the left. In the driveway it happened as a backed up and turned the wheel to the left. I cannot identify where the noise comes from. After the noise and the blown fuse the truck runs just fine and I can continue to drive.
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I have a 2004 Lariat 4x4 with a no start condition. I had lights, but it wouldn't crank. I then discovered that it would not shift out of park. Turns out that it had a blown fuse. I did not have any of that type (the funky square 20a fuses) so I pulled the heated seats fuse (30a) and threw it in there, tried to start it and blew it right away. Is there a common short to look for on these? I believe that the guy that owned it before me had a satellite radio in it, and could it be a bare wire from that setup possibly blowing the fuse?Just trying to get a head start on tracking down the short.
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My 2007 F150's turn signals and hazard lights quit working. I checked the fuse and it was blown. Once I pulled the old fuse out the truck wouldn't start at all. What happened?
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A very odd hum from the rear (2005 f150 4.2) that occurs at all speeds. Low speed it occurs regardless of load on the drive line. At higher speeds it only happens when i have considerable load on the drive line. All bearings in the diff were replaced less than a year ago when the main pinion bearing went and the diff gears were in pretty dam good condition. Wheel bearings are not getting warm to indicate a wheel bearing. And when i let off the throttle it hums for a few seconds and dissipates as the tension on the drive line goes away. I even looked at the carrier bearing assy and it seems to be in good working order. I live pretty dam far from any type of service so i was just curious before i start trying to trouble shoot this any further.
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I have a strange noise that occurs at both highway and surface street speeds. On surface streets at low speeds 45 mph and under, if I let off accelerator to coast and lightly step on accelerator I get this quick sharp noise.
Everything I have read regarding a similar noise is under load and being described as a turbo fart. Clearly I am not under any load. I'm lost.
Definitely not a low woooo noise. Also not a hard accel and release and definitely no chuckle and or popping. The sound is high pitched and quick, roughly .5 to 1 second at most. The sound is more like a "zzzrrp" or "zzzoop". I can replicate the sound 50% of the time easily at speeds under 45 mph by briefly coasting (no accelerator) and lightly tapping the accelerator and releasing or holding. Occasionally this sound will occur at full stop when I step off of the brake pedal and before I step on the accelerator. This sound can also occasionally be heard at highway speeds under similar accelerator conditions though it may be more frequent and I just don't notice it.
Would this condition throw a code? Just received "Total Ford Scan Tool Package Enhanced Bundle SP03" scanner from autoengenuity. Hoping to put it through its paces tomorrow.
Additional info: 145k miles. Injectors serviced by a reputable diesel shop here in Vegas approximately 1.5 years ago. Unknown oil leak where oil is collecting in the valley on top of the engine beneath the turbo. HPOP seals were replaced roughly 1 year ago at another reputable diesel shop here in Vegas. Still have an oil leak (turbo related?) Oil is under 500 miles old and acceptable level. Fuel filter is due for a change but that does not seem to affect condition. Air filter 1000 miles. Thinking about upgrading to AIS severe duty kit soon.
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I bought 2008 Corolla S 5 speed with 62K miles. Now have 135K miles. When shifting up into 3rd gear, a grinding occurs intermittently, more often as miles accumulate. I try to make sure clutch pedal is fully depressed. No problems occur with other forward gears, up or down. What the problem might be and/or what can be done to fix? This is the sixth car I have owned with manual transmission. Never a problem like this!
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Ok, just asking a question for a buddy. He has 78k on the truck and the shocks make a strange noise. When one of us bounces the truck up and down on the bumper (simulating a load) the shocks "click". Now I looked and it looks like the bushing may be wore out, and the actual bolt that goes through the upper shock mount is touching the top and then the bottom, emitting the "clicking" noise. Is this just a normal wore out shock, or perhaps a defect? Just asking because I am not as familiar with suspension systems.
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2008 Prius. I am just starting to have power door lock system problem. The power locks would not work either with the fob button, the keyless entry, or the door buttons. I have replaced the battery in both key fobs. I have also found the 25 Amp fuse in position 11 of the fuse block located driver's side instrument panel (Power door lock system) was blown and have replaced the fuse. The fuse has blown again after 3 days. I can still start the car with without inserting the key. Why is my fuse blowing?
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I get this weird rattle noise comes and goes once in a while notice it on highway mostly? I don't think it's a loose heat shield?
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I experienced some weirdness trying to jump start a friends 2001 Prius and the 100 amp fuse got blown. I read the user manual and am pretty positive that I did not reverse polarity on the auxiliary battery, with the jumper cables. But as soon as I hooked up the cables the headlights and taillights came on, as well as both turn signal lights steady on, and I couldn't turn them off. I checked and checked. The key wasn't in. All the headlight switches were off. I just couldn't figure it out. After trying to let the auxiliary battery charge for a while this way, the car was still totally dead and it was weird and I gave up.
The next day my friend called AAA and they couldn't start it either. But she said they were pretty clueless, refusing to believe at first that the battery was in the trunk, and suspects maybe they reversed the polarity on the cables when they tried to jump it. She didn't see the headlights come on this time (although it was now during the day).
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I own a 2005 GX 470 recently I got in to drive the car and the navigation screen would work for climate control and audio functions but the map would not display. A bunch of warning lights were also on ABS, VSC etc. Upon investigation I found the ECU-B fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and everything appeared to be fine. About 3 days later and the same thing happened again. I again replaced the fuse and it lasted a couple of days and blew again. I have not been able to isolate it to any one thing that seems to trip it. How to best determine the cause of the issue?
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My father in law has an 04 EX with the 5.4. It has a weird sound coming from the front passenger side. He listened to the jiffy lube kid who told him it was the brakes. I pulled one side completely apart tonight and the brakes are fine. We took it for a drive so I could hear the noise. It is coming from the passenger side up front. It is intermittent.
Doesn't matter if we hit a bump or pot hole. It sounds like a cat being run over. It will either last for a few seconds or just really quick. I crawled underneath and could not find anything loose. The first time I heard it I thought it was a shock. But the second time it was way too long to be a shock. And they are only a year old.
Secondly, it has a cat, and two mufflers..... Is this normal?
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I have a 2004 F150 with 195,000mi. For the last several moths the truck has had a rattle on startup, some days it is barely noticable and only on cold starts, other days it is loud and occurs on every startup. The truck was most recently serviced at the Ford dealer and is filled with Motorcraft 5w-20 syn blend and Motorcraft filter Every change before was either Motorcraft syn blend or Penzoil Platinum (I have always used Motorcraft filters on it) and the noise continued after oil changes so I don't think the drain back valve is the issue. I replaced the cam phasers, timing chains, chain tensioners, and guides about 15,000 miles (2 years) ago and the vct solenoids shortly after that. Here is an audio clip of the noise (I know the truck also has an exhaust manifold leak, I plan on replacing the manifold while im working on it
Is this noise the lash adjusters or have the cam phasers failed again (they were dorman parts)? If it is the lash adjusters, can they be replaced without removing the cams? will failed adjusters be obviously damaged? Should I also replace the cam followers? do i need to replace all 24 at once or can i safely replace only damaged ones or maybe just 1 bank (noise seems to only be coming from the pass side)?
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So my truck is making a kind of a clunk noise in the trans area does it between 30-50mph does it more often when cruise control is on but still does it from time to time when it's off. What it could be?
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Just bought a '15 Golf TSI S/sunroof with the 5MT (night blue, for the curious). Anyway, I've been getting a strange noise that was not present on the test drives, but that I first heard driving home from the dealer about a week ago. Since then it has happened intermittently, and not reliably enough that I've brought it back to inquire about. It is hard to describe, but sounds something like a whir and whine together. Typically it starts when I am in gear -- 4th, usually, though I can't figure why that would matter -- and then take my foot off the gas. If, however, I put the clutch in or put my foot back on the gas, it won't stop right away. It does stop when the car comes to a full stop. I'm beginning to suspect that it happens more when the car and/or the day is very hot. The times I've heard it most often, it has been over 90* outside, and the car has been driven for at least about 10 minutes.
I drove around for 25 minutes this morning and it finally did it, so I hit the sound recorder on my iPad. For reference, this morning it was about 81* out.
Here's a video link to it. It occurs at the 1:13 mark, if you want to skip ahead, but it's pretty faint over the background hum. The sound is clearer on the actual recording when I play it back on my iPad. [URL]........................................
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Recently while I was stupidly upgrading one of my dome lights while it was on (door open and yes stupid) I shorted it and blew the fuse. Of course jump in the drivers seat and go buy another fuse. To my amazement the car was dead. No power up starting, no door locks no fob operation or anything. The flashers and brake lights and horn worked fine and that was it.
What a great single point immobilizer!
Problem is you will lose clock, settings like reverse beep off, mpg, etc. I was dead in the water until I remembered in the engine fuse box there is a spare 15a fuse (and the fuse puller). The dome light fuse is there as well. Replaced the dome light fuse and all is well. Drove off like I had saved the world. Very strange. Looking at the wiring the junction block that the dome light fuse feeds also feeds LOTS of other areas of the car including the ECU.
Want to keep your kids from driving the car. Forget taking the keys. Pull the dome light fuse.
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(CORRECTION: AM1 fuse blew, not ECU-IG)
(Correction 2: Update 6/3/2014 AM-2 fuse blew, not ECU-IG)
What caused my shutdown and the ECU-IG fuse to blow while driving normally? I want to get educated prior to the dealer's response.
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I replaced the hybrid battery in my 2005 Prius today & when I disconnected the 12v battery the wrench arced & I assume that I blew a fuse. I have looked, but have not found anything. I hope I am missing something obvious.
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I've had it happen a few times over the past few years (07 Pri) that when I have to brake really hard, the front lower dash 12V lighter outlet fuse blows. Seemed odd at the time but when I replaced the fuse and everything came back to life I kind of forgot about it.
Today we had a crazy idiot try the mad dash across 4 lanes of traffic and that of course made all cars slam on their brakes. Wouldn't say it was a ABS type slam but certainly hard braking.
Anyway, I heard the chime of a 12V device powering off and a bit later we noticed the MFD, radio, and clock were all off. Probably everything cut out at the same time but obviously attention was on the traffic not the electronics.
I saw some people mention that is the ACC fuse which I'm about to go and check on, but what is causing this. Just seems odd that hard braking causes such electrical issues. Wouldn't think there would be an overlap in systems but maybe?
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I've began noticing about 2 - 3 months ago that while coasting up to 50-55 mph my truck begins to hesitate with a slight banging when it occurs. At first I was worried it may have been transmission, but once I talked to ford mechanics, they reassured me it was not, especially at 85,000 miles. I then noticed that taking it out of overdrive prevents the problem. It doesn't act up unless I am on the highway between 50 and 60 mph. It seems to progressively get a little worse and occasionally I can feel a jolt, as if it's struggling to shift into OD. What the problem could be? 2006 F-150 FX4 ...
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I am having the headlight problem on my 2006 prius (and have seen thousands of posts about it). The drivers side goes in and out and has done so for 6 months. But now the passenger side is doing the same and the 12 volt outlet fuse has blown. There are 133000 miles on it (nothing done to the vehicle except oil changes and new tires) Replacement bulbs from eBay are on the way. I have replaced the fuse and its ok now. I don't know if they are unrelated or if this a battery issue.
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