Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Stalling At Idle And When Trying To Park
Mar 17, 2017
My 2004 fx f150 with 177K miles is stalling (rpms bottom out) driving down the road and coming to a stop (coming to idle) and when trying to park. AND, its an intermittent problem.
Of course, not spitting any codes or CEL's. I've searched the site and there are multiple types of the same issues and solutions. Narrowed it down to either the dreaded vacuum line sandwiched against firewall and engine compartment, OR the cleaning of MAF, throttle body and IAC valve.
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I have a 2005 5.4l f150. 105,000 miles. Recently While on a trip I experienced rough idle and stalling at idle. I drove it home 2hrs. The ride home was challenging. Poor acceleration, rough idle. Took it to the dealer and was told I needed plugs and I was 5qts low on oil! Not sure where the oil went. It hasn't been leaking and never seemed to burn oil in the past. They did the tune up. Picked up the truck. It ran fine while cold. Upon warming up it ran rough at idle and stalled just like it did before. Took it back, they said "you need a new engine. Upon warming the oil pressure drops indicating internal engine damage". I took it to a local guy he says replacing the cam phasers might fix it. What's the consensus, should I try the cam phasers? Look for some other potential problem or trust the dealer? (They did refund me for the tune up)...
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I recently bought a 05 f150 with 5.4 3v and 195k miles needing some work. Ran great, just had a code for timing over retarded. Originally it had a cracked timing cover, so i took it off to replace and found broken guides and bad tensioners on timing. I installed new guides, chains, and tensioners, and cleaned phasers, and put back together only to find it ran terrible and had a phaser rattle. I then went in and installed phaser locks, which took care rattle but not the running issues. I can not figure it out.
ISSUES: My issues almost mirror what is said in this thread here, but this issue was never solved. [URL] ....
My issue is when started cold it starts right up, idles ok, runs ok, although a bit sluggish. Once its warm it stalls at idle, shudders when giving throttle in overdrive, and if you kick it down it will continually backfire, and slowly accelerate... it kicks down but acts like its only getting 1/8 throttle, just kind of hangs at the same rpm and slowly climbs in rpm. Sometimes it wont backfire as much, and sometimes the check engine light flashes. After it stalls at idle and you start it back up it sounds like it shudders/backfires for a split second then starts.
It is throwing many engine codes, but most are from the phaser locks. Throws code for timing over advanced on each bank (phaser locks lock them fully advanced), cam timing codes for each bank, and then a code that doesn't have to do with the timing, P2106. I am going to run some live diagnostics on it today and report back but I am fully at a loss.
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An injector stuck open on my 05 5.4 and bent a rod. I had a new rod put in and all new revised Motorccraft injectors. This was about a month ago. Truck has ran great for the past 3 weeks until today I put it in park and it idles real rough, put it in gear and it smooth as butter again? (Once in a rare while it will continue to idle rough in gear for a few seconds but then clears up.) New motorcraft plugs were put in right before it bent the rod. The truck runs real strong other wise. I am about done with ford this pickup has been the biggest pile I've ever owned one thing after another and just when I think its fixed its some other stupid problem. I'll start by cleaning the maf and throttle body. Could it be a bad coil?
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My 04 F150 has started having a rough idle. While in park the engine will stall out with the A/C off. Also when in drive the truck will idle close to 1000rpm's. I had to the fuel filter cleaned and also the MAF sensor cleaned. Also did a vacuum check on it. Pulled the code and it's throwing a Lean Code. What else should I be looking for?
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2004 Explorer 4WD XLT 4.0 6cyl - Mileage is 117,000 - Check Engine Light came on - Pulled the code of PO193. Had the Fuel Pressure Sensor changed, Plugs and wires and check engine light is still on after being re-set several times? Car is stalling at times when going from park to drive - It seems to idle ok in park but, when in drive at a red light, the tac will bounce a little and it seems like it's not getting enough fuel and will stall out at anytime. Is there a fuel filer that can be changed? Should I have the fuel injection checked and cleaned along with a fuel filter. Seems to be getting poor gas mileage.
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Here's the problem: just bought my o4 FX4 5.4 liter. When I test drove it, I heard the ticking noise but knew it was sometimes normal for these trucks so i paid it no attention. like others iv heard from, as soon as they changed oil the ticking noise got louder but in the last week it has randomly stalled twice at very low speeds trying to find a parking spot. the engine pretty much sounds like a deisel now and I am wondering if the ticking noise and the stalling is related.
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2004 Lariat. Ford F150, 5.4 Triton. Whenever I slow down, stop, or turn my truck will read low oil pressure, then all my gauges drops and it stalls out. I've taken it to my mechanic twice now. And twice he's replaced two sensors. Today I took it to Wal-Mart for an oil change and they said its probably why my check engine light is on code, T19. I've had that light on for 4 years now and this stalling out problem starts 3 months ago. So far its had regular oil changes, new air filter, two new sensors and im scraping money to throw at it. Hitting snow banks, other vehicles, and tree's... need to find the real problem before I go broke or worst kill someone in an accident.
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I've got a 4.6 in a 2005, 178000. I assume the 4.6 in an E150 would be the same as the F150.
So anyways, Started and an intermediate problem where sometimes it would stalling when making turns, such as entering a driveway, making turns or going from reverse to drive. Now its turned into more of a problem with stalling, even while in just idle and not just in gear.
At idle RPM is sporadic from 300-900. Here is where I'm at New Fuel Filter. ECM is reading 38 to 41 psi fuel pressure at idle and when the throttle is pushed.
Took a chance and changed the belt since the old was a bit lose. Even ran the engine without a belt and there was no change in my problem.
I've removed the throttle body, just learned these engines don't have an IAC, they use and IAC motor instead. I don't know how to test that but I'm googling it.
Back of throttle blade is all gunked up so I'm cleaning that now. It has no codes btw.
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2004 f150, Column shift Auto...
Today I stopped the truck put it into park and shut it off, everything worked fine, when I went to go start it back up it started but I cant put it out of park, I called FORD and they said put the key into the on position press the break as hard as you can and put it into neutral, we tried that and it didn't work, then they asked if we could move the truck because it could be struck or something still nothing... We tried the little cap and hold it to override the solenoid but it didn't work I dunno if I am doing it wrong so Is there any other things I can try or can you walk me through the override button here's what I did with that.
Opened the cap with a flat head
pushed it in
And started tried to shift
Is that what you do or what do you need to do??
Is there any way I could check the solenoid how do i take apart the column to do that?
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I have an 2006 f-150 King Ranch with 103k miles and it was misfiring and then stalling when stopping at lights. Both cam shaft sensors and all coil packs were relaced then it was still misfiring. The head was recently replaced and now they are waiting on a new computer. When it starts misfiring it vibrates the whole truck and the engine light flashes. If you turn the truck off then back on it will run fine for about 50 miles. Im worried that replacing the computer is not going to fix it, what else could it be?
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Just got an 04 f150 STX 4.6L Regular cab.
Drove fine for a few months (she's a little rough, but she does the trick).
The other day, I went out to go to work, truck would start and run, won't come out of park. Both turn signal indicators on the dash are illuminated, turn signals, flashers, radio and Climate controls do not work.
Currently driving with the emergency shifter release pulled out and zip tied open. First thought was interlock switch, but I'm not sure if that would affect everything else.
This happened once before, and I pulled all the taillights and checked all fuses, then it just seemed to work again after flipping the rheostat for the interior/dash lights. didn't work this time around.
Dash is all torn apart - where to start looking?
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So I went out to start my truck today after setting for 2 weeks and nothing. (2008 F150 XLT 4.6 31k miles) bought may 08. Anyway no lights or anything, battery was dead as a doorknob. I was just wondering if my battery was on its way out or if I have other problems. Oh and something else I couldn't get it out of park (column shift) until I hooked a battery charger to it. I was going to pull it out of the barn to jump it off but couldn't get out of park.
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For the last couple of months, I am not able to push the button on the gear selector to change out of park. Twice I have had to give up and drive the wife's car. When I come back it works once and then it starts again.
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2006 4.6l / Stalls at stop signs, red lights, and slow turns. My truck has been doing this for 3 years. Throws a code for crank position sensor, also will say unexpected low idle which would explain why so many of us have low oil pressure while this is happening. So after years of worrying and reading these forums and stalling at stop signs I take to the shop. And it was the throttle body needed cleaned. No more problems. Runs like a new one. I have used Lucas fuel treatment for years in this truck. Im a big fan of their products. When this problem began I was adding Lucas with every tank of fuel.
I buy it by the gallon jug. I used some Lucas from this same jug on the wifeys Denali and her truck stalled out once or twice. She wouldn't ever let me add any to her gas again lol, I argued with her that it wasn't because of the Lucas additive. Never the less it never stalled again. Maybe I got a bad batch, maybe I used too much, or maybe it had nothing to do with the additive. But I thought it needed to be mentioned since it is supposed to be a cleaner, and since I carried it in my tool box and added it to almost every tank of fuel. I was adding about 7 ounces per tank. Who knows? But the problem with this truck is that the throttle body did need cleaned.
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2008 F150 5.4L. So today I was sitting at a stop light and Idk why but I just sawed the wheel a little left and a little right and my RPMs fell off. My idle is set around 600rpm and when I turned the wheel it started shuddering really hard and RPMS fell down to about 300RPM. Once I give it the gas it goes away completely....I got it back to my house and it has continued to do the same thing. The engine shudders really bad and the only thing that will sraighten it up is the throttle. Power steering fluid is full.
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I am perfectly capable of doing the repairs just short on time. the only shop in town is booked out 2 weeks, i need my truck sooner. 2006 f150 5.4v 3v 168k. I bought it with 150k and it was clean and ford maintained from the original owner. for a while it has been fluttering from time to time during acceleration. last week it started shuttering and missing around 45 trying to accel. no cel. I've read and actually fixed my freinds 08 but replacing cop and plugs. I bought motorcraft plugs and granatelli coils. friday morning it didn't want to start, cranked for a bit then locked up, as if hydrolocked.
I let it sit 5 minutes then cranked again and it fired but hesitating and missing like never before. anything passed 3k rpm it ran good no load. i had to drive it and it doesnt want to shift properly, revving way past normal shift points. smoking alot more than normal. hard to tell being 5 degrees out. finally got some codes. bank 2 sensor 1 stuck rich 4 times lean twice. Saturday i changed the oil plugs. and coils plugs were not original but were worn enough to visually see. all of the passenger plugs were a nice brown color. all of the driver side were jet black of carbon which follows the o2 cel. i reset it with my glorifed code buddy and it took a while if at all to come back. so im thinking not an o2 sensor????
It runs rough and will stall from time to time, I am to the point where i wont drive it. i will be replacing the camshaft sensors and vct solenoids tonight, and that one 2 if i have time. from what I've read phazers will cause a rough idle but once under load at least have some performance. when i accel it the rpms stall out before a shift i cant get anymore power, say wont got over 3200rpm. when chains and guides need to be replaced whats the symptoms??
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I haven an 08 F150 Lariat 5.4 with 148xxx km. I had the ticking in my 5.4 got a rebuild engine 9xxx km ago
A while back it started to vibrate when i stop at a red light or stop sign or in park. The rpms are at 620-660(wich is normal?) sometimes the vibration is there, sometimes not. I can feel it in the seat.
When you pop the hood, you can see the engine shutter just a bit every 4 seconds or so. Early in the morning before i go to work i start the truck to warm it up and its not there.
What i changed so far:
Air filter, fuel filter, sparkplugs, cops, battery(getting ready for winter)
Maf is nice and clean. Where else to look? Engine mounts?
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I have a 2006 f150 it was making a knocking noise after the engine oil temp reached 160* and made the noise to 1700rpms. I thought it was the cam phasers so I replaced them. The truck is still making the noise and running rough and stalling but not as bad and not as often. Before it did it all of the time. The truck is timed properly. I had a new cam sensor and tried it but that did not work. I watched vct on the scan tool and both cams are in sycn.
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Last week I was changing the oil on my wife's 2004 Camry (130 000 kms). I noticed quite a LOT of corrosion around the positive and negative battery terminals.. so I decided to clean them.
I removed the negative without any problems but I could not get the positive off. I decided to use a hammer to move the connector back and forth. I was surprised with how much force I had to use to break the connector free.
Once I replaced the oil I tried to start the car but it would not start. I check the voltage and I was down to 10 volts. Obviously I had damaged the battery in getting the positive terminal off. A quick ride to the auto parts store and I had a new battery.
I installed the battery and took the car out for a spin. The car drives normally but it will NOT idle after it has been warmed up. If I come to a stop sign, the car will idle low and stall.
I have already verified that the battery is at full charge and the battery is being charged when the engine is running. No 'Check Engine' light has come on.
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My 2008 FX4 won't disengage from park without depressing the manual release (white button). Center console shifter interlock. All I need to know is the part number for that solenoid. None of my local parts stores have a clue and I don't trust my local stealerships.
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