Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Squeal That Sounds Like A Bad Pulley?
Sep 19, 2012
Its actually on a 2008 E350 with a 5.4 but figured its all the same. There is a squeal that sounds like a bad pulley but its coming from the flexplate or torque converter. I have taken the belt off to verify. I dont see anything psychically wrong like cracks, bends or anything touching. The little I can find on this subject I would say flexplate has a crack somewhere. Transmission shop also can not figure it out. I just want assurance before pulling the transmission in this beast.
Here is a video : [URL]......
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2004 F-150 XLT.... What the thread size and pitch are on the alternator pulley nut? Cant find a replacement nut anywhere and lost the original!
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I have a 2008 F-150 with a 4.6. I have a sequel and I believe it is the belt tensioner pulley and / or the idler pulley above it. Looking for proper procedure to change one or both. It is pretty tight in there. How much stuff do I have to remove to get in there. Should I replace both pulleys at the same time.
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I noticed my engine whine more than it usual since the last few days. So, I took it to the dealership and have them check. They said that it is the idler pulley going bad. Just want to see some info on diagnosis.
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Doing some charity work on a '04 5.4. Noticed top right idler pulley was sitting on a 45* angle, figured it was shot and decided to replace it. The bolt broke. Borrowed an Easy Out. Short version, I have a very messed up bolt hole. Tried drilling and tapping but couldn't get it to bite and was scared to go bigger. I don't know if the threaded part pulley actually mounts can be replaced and if so how to go about it. Not sure how much deeper I can drill if it can't be replaced? At a standstill.
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I noticed my engine whine more than it usual since the last few days. So, I took it to the dealership and have them check. They said that it is the idler pulley going bad.
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I get a small "squeal" from the engine usually only when it's cold out, and have narrowed it down to the water pump pulley (2nd pulley down from the top). I put a drop or two of WD-40 on the "rod" that runs through the pulley and it stops. I know not to put anything on the belt to avoid contamination but it seems to me that it's the metal bolt that keeps the pulley in place. I stopped by an O'Reilly and had the tech have a look because I was going to try a more viscous grease. He thinks that it's either the pump is starting to fail or that the pulley could have moved out of place. He said I should remove the belt and tug on the pulley.
If it moves then it's loose and needs to be lubed and tightened. If it doesn't then it's a water pump replacement. What do you all think? I don't want to drop a ton of money as it truly only squeals when it's cold, and unfortunately I'm thinking Chicago's gonna have a cold one this year even though after the engine heats up it's goes away. If you have a guess to the problem, what do you think replacement will run me. I'm only at 30,000 miles, and has been garaged until recently so I don't think it's a belt change or pump failure yet.
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After about 1 minute after starting the truck it sounds like the fan belt is squealing..(below 30 deg outside) Only its not the fan belt as I replaced it. Does not do it when it is engine is operating temperature. Have checked all of the Pulleys which seem to be all right. The frequency of the squealing sound is about 1/3 the engine RPM and will go away above 2k when it does do it. Stopping at a stop light after about 45 seconds it really starts to get loud. Can a Fan Clutch do this.. I beleive that this engine has a timing chain right?
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My '04 driver window would squeal when going up or down....dealer replaced entire window track/molding around door window opening. Fixed the squeal, but the new rubber molding looked like crap from wrinkle, stretching, etc.
Now, to today. My '07 is now doing the same squeal on both sides! I do not want 'new' trim/tracks installed because I'm convinced they can't do it like 'factory'. It's worse when it hot and sunny out...vs...rainy or dew.
My next step is to remove my door panels and 'q-tip' some clear silicone into the tracks on the window edges...as I believe the problem is simply 'dry rubber' which is rubbing the window edges. Rain or high humidity offers just enough 'lube' to prevent all but the slightest squeaks.
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I just bought a 2006 F150 SuperCrew with a 5.4L engine and since the weather has turned cold, I've noticed an intermittent high pitched squeal coming from the engine compartment. I've replaced the serpentine belt and the idler pulley plus another belt pulley but none of the above worked.
I've also had two separate mechanics look at the problem and both are at a loss as to what could be causing the noise. The guess is maybe its an air leak coming from either the intake or vacuum lines. But nobody is really sure.
The noise seems to really become noticeable when the temperature gets below 20 degrees and around 2000 rpms, but sometimes it happens at other times. Where this extremely annoying sound might be coming from?
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My truck started making this whistling sound a few thousand miles ago. Its a high pitched squeal coming from somewhere under the hood. There doesn't seem to be any pattern or certain time when it does it. Ive read on here about an alternator problem on these trucks. Or could it be my S&B intake?
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I have a high pitched squeal coming from the back windows during operation. I am pretty confident it's not the window assembly itself (linkage, track, etc in the door), but rather the weatherstripping type material that physically lays against the glass at the bottom of the window opening on the door. This happens in both up and down directions of the window.
It DOES NOT squeal when the material is wet, and thus is the reason that I've been able to pinpoint the cause. It's likely that the window channels could be contributing to this as well. The problem is...I don't know how to solve this without applying a lubricant that will smear/streak my windows.
I've already taken clean rags and wiped both the inner and outer portions of this material to remove dirt and dust that they gather...no change in the noise. Is there a way to "condition" the material so they will soften up, without leaving a residue that will streak the window?
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so im a fairly new owner of a 2008 f150 lariat 4x4 5.4l3v bought in September of 2013 with 32358 miles. this engine was built in 10/9/2007 and was just before the spark plug update so I have the black cop on this engine. and on cold day start ups it sounds like a diesel till warm and then it still has a slight knock to it vary slight is this normal or is this a tall tail sight of the phaser issue or spark plug issue coming to light love this truck and will fully rebuild it if I know what to do, ford dealer says that its normal and that if I lose power at some point I will need a new engine with this low mileage.
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As the title says I have noticed a strange sound on start up in the last couple weeks that sounds like rocks in a can. Noticed only at start up and then stops but I have noticed it slightly infrequently when driving. Truck runs great, no noticeable problems. I have looked under the hood and suspension to see if something maybe hung up and didn't see anything. Thought this might be the problem since I was following a plumbing truck that had plastic buckets flying out the back and I hit one!
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My friend just bought a 2008 F150 5.4 110k, it ran great all day during all of the test drives, after he gets it home it has started acting up. Most of the time it runs great, but sometimes when you stop the truck the idle will drop down and the truck sounds like it is going to die but so far it hasn't actually died, it starts knocking really badly and runs very rough. If you let it keep running like that it sets P0340. If you rev the truck up it cleans up and sounds fine again and it will even drop back down to a clean idle most of the time. I swapped the cam sensors because it was easy and just to see and it didn't make a difference, I was hoping after switching the sensors the code would switch to the other head but it didn't.
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I am currently stage 2, drive my car kind of aggressive on a regular basis, and now I hear a squeal under high boost, sounds like air escaping. Boost is not acting any different, I've come to the conclusion that the problem is most likely my revision D DV.
-What does failing REV D sound like???
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2005 f150 super cab, 5.4 liter, 4x4 107k miles. I have a 12 bolt rear differential and the tag on the door has an axle code of "B6". No noise under power or braking but if your driving along flat road and not much power is needed to keep the truck moving then there is a hum almost sounds like faint grinding but not quite. The differential housing gets hot to touch after a 30 mile drive down the interstate.
My brother was the previous owner and this has made the noise for years so it's not critical but annoying. I removed the dif. cover to change the oil. All the teeth are smooth, no rough or grinding surfaces. No play at the wheel end so I don't believe its a bad bearing. Oil was used but not burnt up or sludgy and very few metal flakes at bottom of housing. Thought it looked good for the age. Also, both wheels off ground and truck in neutral. There seems to be a lot of resistance while turning the wheel. I don't think the brakes are dragging but will eliminate that possibility this weekend.
What rear axle I have. Why its making the noise? How to repair it? Is this a posi diff?
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My daughters 2004 f150 5.4 3v. 130k miles. Had a broken timing chain guide on passenger side. Changed phasers, solenoids, timing chains, crank gear, tensioners, and oil pump. Pulled pan and cleaned it and the pickup tube of pieces of the old guide. Engine had zero sludge. Very clean inside.
Put it all back together. Left crank sensor unplugged to rotate engine until it had good oil pressure which only took a few seconds. Plugged sensor back in. Truck started right up. Runs perfect. Drove perfect. Idles with no noise. But as soon as I rev it up a little, there is a HORRENDOUS squealing from the lower left of the engine. Pulled serpentine belt and squealing is still there. Used a stethoscope to determine its in the lower left behind the timing cover.
I haven't pulled the cover back off yet but what this could be? Everything went back together fine so I can't imagine what it is.
HOWEVER, I did notice that my new tensioners only had an oil hole in one of them. The two I removed both had an oil hole. So one of the new tensioners does not have an oil hole in the center of the plunger. I see online, that many did not come with an oil hole. But I'm wondering if this could be the source of the squealing? Maybe not oiling the chain enough and the squeal that I hear is the chain on the plastic guide?
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I have an '08 Ranger, automatic. For the last several months, the truck has been making an intermittent high-pitched squeal/whine, but only after it has been warmed up (10--15 minutes driving) and only while it is idling. As soon as I'm driving, the whine stops; whine will occur both in drive (but stopped) and in park. The whine will not happen every day I drove, nor will it happen at every stop. When it does squeal, the squeal will fade in and out in volume.
An interesting kicker I've found recently: it seems to be dependent on electrical draw. For example, if I'm sitting idle with the lights on, and the truck is squealing, and then I turn the lights off, it suddenly squeals less. Still squeals, but less than with the lights on.
I have had mechanics check all the usual suspects, belts, etc, but have not found anything amiss. Nor can I actually get the squeal to occur when I visit the mechanics.
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I have a 2008 Toyota Camry, 4-Cylinder w/ 55,000 miles on it.
Yesterday, when I started the engine I heard a rattling noise. Opening it up and looking inside, it seemed to be coming from the area of the serpentine belt. Looking closer, I saw that the pulley appeared to be wobbling slightly, although it didn't feel loose to the touch.
As I'm out of town on a roadtrip and needed to try to get home, I decided to try to drive it anyway. Aside from the noise itself, the car ran fine - the engine temperature stayed normal, which I kept an eye on closely.
After a bit over 50 miles of this, however, the serpentine belt got thrown off. With my engine temperature rising, alternator not functioning and power steering cut out, I pulled over immediately and shut off the car.
Looking more closely at the water pump pulley, I could see that it was clearly tilted in its alignment in comparison to the other pulleys along the belt's route. This explains the wobbling I saw. Clearly that needs to be repaired, lest it throw off the serpentine belt again.
So, this brings me to my questions here.
Given that the water pump itself seemed to be functioning fine during the drive until the belt got thrown, is it possible that just the pulley itself is broken? Or that it's misaligned?
If so, is it possible to replace / realign the pulley without having a mechanic tear the car apart to get the water pump out?
If these aren't the issue, is it possible that the water pump itself is just misaligned as opposed to broken? If so, can it be realigned without buying a new one?
I'm basically trying to assess
* what exactly is the problem
* whether it is something I can fix myself without a mechanit
* whether I'll need parts and what those parts would be
* how many hours of service I should expect to have to fund if I can't do it myself
Here's a picture of how it looks right now .....
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I've got an issue with my 2008 (gen1) Mazda 6 (6 cylinder). The car makes a high pitched (as opposed to a low pitched rumble) "airy/raspy" squeaking noise while moving. It doesn't make any odd noises in park. It sounds like it's coming from the front of the vehicle and maybe louder from the front passenger side.
When I start the car up in the morning it doesn't make noise. After about a mile or so it starts. It seems to get more pronounced the more it's warmed up. The noise doesn't change pitch although it seems to oscillate a little bit.I've had the brakes checked at the shop and they say it's not them. I had 'em change out the front pads ( and resurface the rotors ) just in case. I took it back to the shop and they couldn't locate it.Do you think it could be belt / pulley related?
It doesn't increase/decrease when the A/C is turned on and off so I don't think it's the A/C compressor.
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