Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Sputters And Hesitates When Stomp The Truck To The Floor
Dec 1, 2010
I got my truck to throw some codes. As many of you know I have been having an issue where when I stomp my truck to the floor it sputters and hesitates. Some days its worse then others. It only happens under a load, and it generally doesn't last to long, however today it did it a whole bunch and lasted for a good bit any time I got on it hard. My engine light begin to flash, and there was a smell of exhaust. I went to Autozone quickly as possible. The guy read the code, and this time no lean codes, just a "P0430" which the code reader said was O2 Sensor Bank 2. It also had a pending code, which was "multiple cylinder misfire detected". So my question is can an O2 sensor cause this? Could my CAT on that side be bad?
If that is all it is, is a bad cat or O2 sensor then I will be very happy... Like I said I can sit in my driveway in park all day long, and rev outta my truck. It will never misfire or hesitate at all. Soon is I put it in gear and am going down the road and punch it sometimes it pop and sputter.
Another cool thing is some how their code reader was able to read my ABS light, and I found out that this whole time I have had a bad ABS Speed Sensor in the rear end. That is a plus as well.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
I was getting a misfire in #4 cyl. Couldn't afford to change all my plugs, so I replaced the one that was missing. Two weeks went by, truck ran fine, then it started missing really hard (same cyl #4). Thought my COP was bad, so replaced that and the boot.
Drove my truck to work last night, seemed to run fine, but this morning, it started to sputter again around 45-55. Plug in my OBD2 and it wasn't throwing any codes, seemed to idle just fine.
When I got home I put it park and revved the engine a little bit. Got it around 2500 rpm and it sounded like I have a air leak in a way. What do at this point. It is a 2007 F150 5.4 triton with 104xxx on it.
View 9 Replies
Intermittent starting issue in these things? Seems to be getting more common for me this winter. Turn the key, it turns over, and then I let go of the key and she doesn't light. Then when I try again, it's like the engine is flooded. I have to give it gas to start, which I know is a no-no in fuel injected vehicles. Other than that, it's fine. No sputters, no hiccups, runs strong, good mpg, etc. But I'm getting annoyed....
View 14 Replies
Strange condition? If I kick it down hard into passing gear (or downshift hard into any gear for that matter), it pukes and sputters for a few seconds before clearing up and coming to life. No issues with normal driving, or dead stop hard acceleration, just on the downshift.
I’ve got a Magnaflow cat back on there and am wondering if opening up the exhaust and reducing the back pressure is screwing with the ECU a little? Is this just the nature of the stock Ford tune and it wasn’t as pronounced with the stock exhaust as it is now? Trucks an '06 FX4 5.4L and only has 70,000km on it.
View 8 Replies
I've recently replaced the timing chains on my sons 04 F-150 5.4. Now I'm getting a code PO174. I've changed 2 coil packs, fuel filter, MAF sensor and cleaned all the connections. Fuel filter had what looked like brown fuel coming out of the in line of the filter. I'm stressed out now, the truck does not even have enough power to drive up the driveway. Backfires, spits and sputters, has rough idle.
View 4 Replies
I have had a 2005 f150 v6 5 speed for a little over two years. Got about 153k on it. Last night was sitting in a parking lot idling about 20-25 minutes, went to leave and she started sputtering hard, lost all power and died. Started back up, idled fine, as soon as i put it in gear same thing then the check engine light came on.
View 3 Replies
I recently bought a 2004 Hyundai Sonata 4cyl with about 65k miles. In the past few months I've noticed that it likes to sputter and hesitate at times, mostly in lower gears when I'm not accelerating hard. At highway speeds it's mostly fine. It's also fairly random - some days it's really bad and others it's fine. Also seems worse when in reverse. I don't think the plugs have been changed so that's one idea, but I'm wondering if it's a bad fuel filter, exhaust manifold leak or something else. It's not throwing any codes (and yes the light works) and it has never stalled completely out.
View 4 Replies
My girlfriend drives an 09 corolla (1.8L I believe). I have an OBDII bluetooth reader w/ Torque App so to identify the issue I can get some data:
Last week I was driving the corolla and I got P0031: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1). Car seemed to run fine without any issues. My girlfriend brought her car in to her "mechanic". "mechanic" who will replace have of your engine only to realize that your gas cap was cracked. He apparently replaced 02 Bank 1 Sensor 2 (I'm still trying to confirm this and to get the part # to make sure). He reset the ECU and she drove for about 30 miles after which these codes popped up:
P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0101: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
The car was idling rough. I reset the codes and the car was running fine until all monitor systems were ready. When Catalyst, 02 Heater & 02 Sensor are not ready everything is running fine and I don't see any error codes. I cleared ECU a few times. The last time I was able to drive for over 20 miles without any issues. Currently the only sensor not ready is 02 and car is running fine but I have a feeling once its ready the car will start having issues again:
Summary (if you don't want to read everything)
*P0031: H02S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1) - Car runs fine
*Mechanic replaces 02 Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Trying to find part # and double check sensor name)
*ECU reset and car runs fine for 30 miles
*P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1) and P0101: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
*ECU reset - car sputters and hesitates
*When all monitors are ready same codes (P0172 & P0101)
View 2 Replies
My son in law's 2004 F150 had been having a random hesitation and dieing on light acceleration. Now it is every time he drives it.Here is the scenario. After taking off from a stop, with light acceleration, when speed reaches 22 mph in drive, it is like you turn the key off,,,except all the gauges still work,radio air all electrical seems to stay on,BUT the indication lights on the dash and the small red anti theft dash light for the security function comes on. If you try to continue accelerating, the truck will die, but if you let off on the gas and then continue to accelerate all is well.
I tried starting off in 2nd thinking it is a transmission problem same scenario except truck did get up to 29mph before experiencing the dieing issue. Tried starting off with Overdrive disengaged, same problem. The truck is throwing no DTC codes and Ford says unless it throws a code, they can't work on it. Truck runs great at highway speeds . My son in law says that if the truck does die,(by trying to force acceleration) he has to stop, and put the truck in neutral or park, and then it will restart. I have checked all connections at the transmission, rear end and all sensors/controls, but no solution. We are getting desperate and don' t know what else to check. It has the 5.4 engine.
View 6 Replies
My truck's been having an occasional hard start, meaning the engine cranks strong but it fails to catch and then sputters. The 2nd start attempt usually fires up with no issues and then runs perfectly otherwise.
MPG's haven't changed, fuel filter was changed 15K ago. Air filter is clean. Plugs were changed about 10K ago. I always use Shell/Chevron gas. MAF sensor looked clean when I took it out so I didn't do anything to it.
This is starting to happen more frequently, maybe once every few weeks and I get a feeling it's the start of something. I've found myself waiting a few seconds for the fuel pressure gauge to come up before turning the key to start reliably. In the past, I could simply flick the key and it fires up the first time.
I see posts talking about the fuel pump module above the spare tire. What are symptoms of that going bad? Any pending codes that might be stored?
I'm about to get myself a scanner since I need one sooner or later. Which specific PID's to check while debugging this?
View 6 Replies
I've had this 2001 toyota corolla for about 2 years now and its been sputtering ever since i got it. it usually happen when i start the car first thing in the morning, idle is usually fine but as soon as i put it in drive and give it a little gas it sputters, sometimes almost shuts downs. it has given my beautiful wife quite a few scares when pulling out on a busy street, by pretty much stopping in mid pull-out! so later on in the day it isnt as bad, usually just when we gas it to take off or pass someone.
But it ALWAYS does it when we go up the mountains here in PA, sometimes i cant go more than 35mph. Its been 2 years, im tired of this, i just had the second mechanic look at it without success. both times they said i had bad plugs. so i changed em. ive looked in forums and through that i learned that i can clean the MAF, i did, and i think its a little better, but not enough to see too much difference.
For What Its Worth: it consumes oil, almost a quart a week, and that is with an approx 500 mi per week. But no symptoms,(no blue smoke out the tail pipe and no spots on the garage floor)
View 4 Replies
I have a 2005 F150 5.4 and I recently got a p0175 code. I've replaced the M.A.F. sensor, fuel injectors, fuel filter, new plugs, coils and checked the vac lines but I'm still getting a p0175 code. Ive reset my P.C.M. and the code stopped for 2 weeks but returned later. The truck runs fine when I erase the code but when it returns it hesitates on take off and has a slight shake like a misfire and it makes a bubbly popping sound from the exhaust. Im at a loss of what to do next! Could this be a code stuck in the P.C.M.? My mechanic thinks it may be the cam phasers!
View 5 Replies
I can't get my shifter to move out of park. I took it in and they replaced the brake switch and although that seemed to fix it it started up again after a week of use. Now I'm stuck in my driveway. What's causing this?
View 13 Replies
I recently got myself a 2007 F150 XLT Supercab, love the truck, but I find myself needing to make a few mods. First up is the floor console. This is the small console sits atop the hump between the jump seat and the dash. It contains two cup holders and the 4x4 floor shifter.
First how does one remove the 4x4 shift, you need to in order to get the floor console off, the console itself lifts straight up, but the boot for the shifter is attached to it, so the only way I can see to remove it. However I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove it.
View 1 Replies
Truck spits and sputters when it starts up..and now it does it more often New spark plugs, new fuel pump and filter New mass air flow. I changed fuel octain and that work for a few weeks and back it spits...... It seems that when I put something new in the truck it runs great for a few weeks and then it starts up again...... I can not find a fuel regulator that fits the one that is on the truck now......so I have not replaced it........
View 4 Replies
Having condensation under carpet between floor metal and carpet pad. I've been looking for leaks. No luck. Why is this happening! It looks more like condensation than a leak. . well, I guess I'll go look again. ..
View 3 Replies
OK for the past few weeks I have been notice water on my floor boards on the DRIVER's SIDE. Now I just did some cab lights and thought ok maybe that's it. About a week ago while it was raining out I dropped the headliner and it was dry as a bone. So I eliminated that as a possibility.
Then I thought well maybe its my 3rd light and the water wasn't showing up until there. So that's been replaced and sealed tight. Now it has been cool here and has not rained in about a week now so everything should of dried out by now.
I left the floor mat out all of yesterday and last night and came out this morning to a dry floor area. I put the mat back in and drove the 15 minutes to my office and pulled the mat back out and the floor was wet again. I have not run my heat or A/C in 4-5 days and have not had any weather other then sun since last Saturday. The water shows up on the back of the floor mat more as like a heavy condensation then anything else. So my question is where is this water coming from?
View 14 Replies
The truck will not get up and go. When you step on the gas it cuts out and acts like it is going to die. When you give it a lot of gas in idle it also makes a popping sound. When I first tried to figure out what was wrong the catalytic converter got red hot, so I took it to a muffler shop. They said it was not the cc. They then put a new distributer cap on it and an EGR sensor. Still does not run right. The following is what I have put new on it since:
Spark plugs and wires
EGR Valve Throttle position sensor
Fuel filter Fuel Pressure Regulator
Took it to another muffler shop again they said it was not the cc and did a throttle body clean out. I have put fuel injecter cleaner in the gas. When there was a gauge on the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel pressure did not go above 30 PSI and when you stepped on the gas, the gauge read between 10 and 5. Also it does this more so when driving rather than idle and especially when you have to give it gas (like going up a hill) and it seems to hesitate more so after being warmed up. The fuel pump is working according the the ASE master mechanic that tested it with his gauges.
View 4 Replies
Just sopped up about a quart of water on the pass side floor. the wiring harness channel (along the door on the floor) was full as was the corner where the fuse box is along with the whole jutting up to the seat!
Was thinking I has a windshield leak, tested out fine. I have alot of AC water draining under the truck, thought that ws O.K. too. Then did an experiment after dryin the floor and juting.
peeled it all back and ran the AC for 20 minutes till I had a good puddle on the ground, and sure enough the "joint" lowest and closest to the tranny tunnel was dripping. Thinking the box is full of water now. Where is the actual drain hole for the AC? can't find it under the "heat shield" crap under the truck.
View 10 Replies
I have a 99 ford ranger xlt 4.0 ohv basically it sputters so bad while driving it sounds like a dump truck but it all started when I changed my o2 sensors but in doing so I broke my heater control valve and when I was going down the road it started sputtering well it started sputtering so I checked the o2 sensors there good and I changed the heater control valve. But nothing so I changed my coil pack spark plugs and wires but still nothing. But on my reader it says cylinders 2,3, and 4 are misfiring and bank 1 and 2 are running lean plus it has a bad aroma of gas in the engine compartment but when it idles its somewhat smooth but when I'm driving it its horrible the sputtering is so bad it takes awhile to get up to speed plus I'm only getting 100 miles to a whole tank that's like 8 or 9 mpg I need to fix this soon. This is my only transportation...
View 11 Replies
Bought my 2011 F250 6.2L brand new and have had issues with it accelerating since new. I had it in once and they replaced the mass air I believe.
When I merge onto the highway for example and give it some good gas (not really stomping on it) it down shifts and pauses like it trying to figure out what gear it wants to be in, then it picks a gear and the RPM's rev high, but then sometimes it will do the same thing again and then finally take off. If I completely lay into the throttle, it revs high and drops into a gear, then comes back out and drops into another gear, then does it yet again.
Not a fun situation to be in when big rigs are barreling down on you in the right lane! I work 6 days a week and a lot of doubles, so my one day off is usually spent running errands and dropping my truck off all day with the possibility of leaving it for two days just isn't viable, so I hate to bring it in for them to tell me it's fine.
View 14 Replies
