Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Speedometer Error / Reading 2 - 3 Mph Faster Than GPS
Feb 23, 2004
On the way home from my first weekend trip in my '04Screw, I noticed the speedometer did not agree with my GPS, which was sitting ontop of the dash. The speedometer was reading 2-3 mph faster than the GPS.
The truck was taching about 2,000 rpm .. speedometer read 72-73 .. and the Garmin III+ GPS read 2-3 mph less than the truck, tracking 8 out of 12 satellites, and varied between 68 and 69 mph.
My Lariat does have 18 inch tires. I don't have a clue if that caused the difference.
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What would make the OBD II not read the code that is set on my truck. It says "Communication Error..." Fuse 41 grants power to the Diagnostics port and the cigarette lighter. The cigarette lighter is working. Any other reasons I can look at?
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Does the Touareg have the 10% error in speedometer reading like my GTI does?
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Just purchased a 2008 2.0T Passat wagon, lux version. I believe my speedometer may be reading high by about 4 mph. I seem not to be keeping up with most of the traffic (assuming they are driving close to the posted speed limit). Not sure how to really check this out, but assuming the mile markers on the interstate are accurately spaced one mile apart, at 60 mph it should take me 60 seconds to cover the distance and at 70 mph it should take me 50 seconds to cover the distance. If my thinking is correct and upon doing that I find that it takes me about 66 seconds to cover the one mile at an indicated 70 mph on my speedometer
.
Is my thinking correct and/or is there another way to check? Have never been able to find a shop that has calibration equipment so I just resort to this method.
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Got a 2004 Chevy Impala with 99K miles. Speedometer seems to be acting sporadically often. Sometimes, it will shift 10 or 20 mph "faster" than actual speed then, sometimes, it goes to the "maximum" speed on the dial and just stays there with the car on or off. Then a few days later, starts working normal again.
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I have that wonderful ticking noise... Here is some info on my truck: Its 133k, 5.3L 3V. I put new plugs in it and changed the oil (YES the right filter and oil).
Okay, so I'm trying to make sure my diagnosis is what I think it is before I start digging into the motor and get angry because I ordered the wrong parts.
Preface: I got the truck from a deal auction. I was told it ran great, well when I got it, it had this tick. It comes and goes as it pleases (not dependent on the weather or RPMS. The noise is consistent, it gets faster as RPMs rise, it doesn't go away after 1,200 rpms. This lead me to eliminate cam phasers as the issue.
Now here is something odd: After starting up the truck, initially it will be pretty quick and have great throttle response, but after that it will start act like someone put on the parking brake. It can barely accelerate and when you put it to the floor it gets worse. It seems to accelerate best at half throttle. The second part is the truck will shift, dropping the rpms incredibly low and the tick gets louder and more spaced out (leading me to think it's rpm dependent).
All of the noise seems to be localized around the passenger size head area. If I unplug the VCT solenoid the ticking doesn't seem to be as loud if I drive it the next day, and it doesn't do the shift into lower rpms and accelerates wonderfully. Leading me to think it's either the timing is off and when the phasers kick on it goes way out of time and causes it to go into limp mode...or the VCT solenoid is bad?
The ticking never fully goes away, but it has it's quiet days and LOUD days...
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I have a 2003 Ford Focus ZX5 automatic with 143k miles on it. Recently I've run into a problem with the speedometer and RPM gauges dropping down to 0, no reading. It is an intermittent problem and has no logical connection to any of the other functions of the vehicle (it can happen while the car is idling, in motion, upon startup, etc etc.) Everything else on the instrument cluster works perfectly fine, (odometer still reads correctly and works, gas gauge is fine, etc). I'm thinking maybe it is an electrical issue since the car seems to be in fine working condition other than that, even when it drops out. The gauges won't start reading again until I start the car up...and sometimes that is not a guarantee. I use this vehicle to commute locally 4 days a week and I've already put a lot of money into new components for the vehicle.
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Our city has installed a number of auto-radar "you are traveling ___ mph" stations in the last couple years. While not the most accurate of devices, so far they seem to be reading me slower than my C speedometer says. Any other C drivers noticed this? I have the standard 15" steel wheels on my Two.
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Got a weird one today. Everything was fine all day. Got the old girl smogged this afternoon and made one more quick stop. Got back on the freeway and up to speed and looked down. Speedo said I was 90? Yeah right. I was going with the flow.
So I plugged in my bluetooth ALDL dongle and fired up OBD Link. Well, OBD Link showed normal and accurate speeds. As did a second app on my phone for giving speed. So my VSS must be working correctly.
So my speedo is showing about 25 over actual. When the ignition if off the needle sits between 20 and 25. so did my speedo take a dump? Is there anything else I might try to see if it auto-calibrates?
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The 19.5" wheels are not an option on the 2013 F-450, unless you order a Chassis Cab. I'm certain many have made this change. My question is can the dealership make the necessary changes so the speedometer correctly measures the vehicle speed?
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Several years ago, a tree limb fell on out Dodge Neon, breaking the windshield. At that time, the dash gauges worked fine, and continued to for at least a year. Then, every once in a while, the speedometer would just go dead. no mph reading, and the odometer would not register either. over the last several years, it has become more prevalent, and is not not working more than it is. the other gauges are also intermittently failing to read as well. the scariest thing, is when it does come back, the air bag light comes on for about 5 seconds! which to me means there is a possibility that if we were in an accident, they might not work at all.
I believe the dash circuit board is cracked, and this is why this is happening. If the actual dash has to come out of the car, which is what i have feared all this time, it will have to stay that way until we get rid of the car. i can not lay on my head (upside down with my head under the dash) for hours on end trying to find and remove all 40 bolts or plastic clips or darts, or what ever they use these days to hold a dash assembly in. How to replace that board (gauges)? Can it be done without removing the dash? i have a Haynes service manual for it, but we all know how bad those are. I would like to repair this, but i can not afford dealers labor rates, and my luck with home grown shops has been poor at best.
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Is there a way with VCDS to adjust the speedometer reading to match my GPS? The reason I am asking is that I have the wrong winter tire size on my car (205-55-R16) and the difference is 15km/hr more the I really drive.
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My New (weeks old) 2011 SF GL V6 speedometer reading is way to high. I've confirmed this with my GPS. My last 2 cars were Honda`s - one with a digital speedo (Civic) amd they were both bang on with the GPS.
So, my issue is why is the speedo so far out - 10%. I have to drive 110 km/h for a 100km/h on the GPS. On the positive side - I'll never get a speeding ticket.
But to all of you that claim to drive at 75mph and get 25mpg - I'm guessing your really traveling way slower. What can be done. In this day and age a calibrated speedometer isn't asking for much.
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My speedometer reads accurate only till around 45 mph. The needle begins to float around gently, and the faster I go, the more discrepancy it reads. It may hang a while, floating around 60 and the speedometer app on my phone says I'm going 74.
The speed sensors were replaced for another issue a year and a half ago. The dealership initially wanted me to put a new transmission in it for $3800 after they said the trans was slipping past 45. Then they said something instead about a valve plate (could be wrong vernacular) for $1000 instead of an entire transmission.
When I finally told them that my cruise control is completely erratic, trying to track the needle movements with upshifts and downshifts, they said it's $200 in parts for the drive gears and that they were made with plastic that can wear out.
So I said I would sit on it, since the ideas about the issue seem to vary greatly, and my father set me up to go to a transmission shop to have the car checked out. They had it for two days and changed the fluid out but we can't fix your speedometer issue... take it to the speedometer shop, but btw we think your transmission is fine.
Now, do I take it back to the dealer for the drive gears, or do I take it to another specialist? I have seen people say all it needed were the drive gears replaced and a new sensor. My odometer seems to still be working. There is no issue with my gas gauge.
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How to fix a speedometer reading fluctuation? When I am driving about 45 mph the speedometer will drop to zero (RPM does not change) and then will bounce. Some times the speedometer will remain at zero other times it will bounce back to indicating speed.
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I have an 04 5.4L SCREW Erratic Speedometer.
Most of the time it works, some of the time it bounces or doesn't read at all.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry LE V6, It has 15 inch stock wheels on it
If I go to a larger wheel, is it possible to change the wheel speed so that the speedometer reads correct? If I have read correct, the stock offset is +45 and the lug pattern is 5x114.3 and a 6.5inch wheel?
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I can't get an accurate reading on my dipstick of my '08 RX 350. I just tried after it sat all night and the oil is over the full marks. I just had the oil changed at Lexus and they used my 6 quarts of Mobil 1 and I told them not top it off to 6.5 quarts because I wanted to.
The tech said he did not add more than what I gave him. I just called Lexus and they said, yes it is difficult to get an accurate reading for some reason. He said check when the oil is warm and has sat for 5 minutes. Any others have trouble reading the oil dipstick accurately?
'08 RX 350 Flint mica/ blk 84,000 miles
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Ever since I've been using my SD card to play music, I have been getting an intermittent error that reads something like "Error reading SD Card" (I can't recall the exact wording). It seems to happen randomly, and sometimes I have to take out / reinsert the SD card a bunch of times before it reads it again...starts playing music for awhile...then gives me the error again.
It was mildly irritating at first, but now it seems to be happening more frequently and is downright maddening. Here are the details:
I have a 2011 GTI with the Premium stereo HU (what is that...the RDS-510?)
I am using a 16gb SDHC class 2 card
The error happens mid-song...not at the beginning or end of a song (so I don't think it's a particular file/s that is screwing things up)
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I just bought a F150 with 103,000 on it. The engine is a 4.6. I get a P0605 code every now and then which doesnt effect performance. I erase the code and it doesnt appear again for maybe another 100 miles.
I suspect a loose connector but not sure. Looked up the code and it reads PCM READ ONLY MEMORY (ROM) ERROR. My question is what does the PCM operate? And wheres a good place to start troubleshooting?
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I have a Lariat 4x4 supercrew cab with a CD 6 disc changer head unit. Error message. No Disc, and Load Error. Will not eject any of the 6 loaded CDs. Pulled/reset fuse. No luck. Banged on dash while trying to eject any of the loaded CDs.. no luck. Unit cycles when first starting the engine. Radio works fine. Unit locked up....Ford Mx tech says the solenoid that holds the CD is frozen in position and will not release.
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