Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Small Vacuum Leak In 4WD System
May 20, 2013
Long story short, I have a small vacuum leak in the 4wd system. I disconnected the lines going to the hubs to prevent grinding them to pieces as they are brand new. This, of course lock the front hubs in and disengages the X-fer case in 2wd.
It is not engaging in 4wd unless I select it, so I don't imagine it hurting anything in the X-fer case or anything. Other than the extra rolling mass, is this okay to operate at until I resolve my vacuum issue, provided I close all openings and places for trash to get in?
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My 2010 LX with approx 140K miles has a very small leak in the washer fluid system somewhere. (We think). Every 1500 miles or so I get the "Low washer fluid level" warning sign. Never got it in 6 years, but now it's every 1500 miles. Dealer could not find leak. (Maybe it leaks to slowly?) I hardly use the washer fluid, but it's annoying to override this message every time I start the car.
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I'm having a little bit of trouble finding the cause of a minor problem on my 06 Explorer with the 4.0 V6 engine. When the engine is running cold at idle, it runs a bit rough and idle speed is high as well. When fully warm, the engine runs and idles fine. I hooked up a scan tool and there are no pending or stored codes. The live data looks ok except the long term fuel trim which is at about +10% on both banks during idle, indicating a lean condition. Short term fuel is right around zero. The MAF and TPS values seem to respond fine when applying steady throttle.
So I assume there must be a fairly small vacuum leak somewhere that the PCM is able to compensate for since the long term is only at 10. I didn't see anything obviously wrong, the vacuum lines look fine along the passenger side near the firewall. I sprayed a bit of throttle cleaner along the hoses, intake manifold and gasket area, but could not spot any vacuum leaks. Any other common areas to check for leaks on the 4.0 V6? Perhaps there is something I am missing?
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Searched several times over the winter. Finally tore each hose out one at a time and went carefully over it before returning or replacing.
Turned out to be the long formed semi flexible vac. hose that runs from the gas fumes purge tank control valve group to the throttle body across the top of the engine. Ripped it out, on one of the bends was a small crack all the way thru, apparently would open up wide when stressed and cause problems. Mainly on hill pulls or hard acceleration but not every time. NO hair left after this one.
Replaced, deleted the codes. Runs like a top.
Still amazed at how much power these 4.0L V6 OHV Fords have from low speed on an uphill on ramp drag race.
stirs the old hot rodder blood.
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I have a factory plastic bedliner in my 05 F150 with the 8ft bed. The tie downs in the front of the bed have a small gap that allows water to leak under the bedliner. I have tried using silicone caulk around the seam but the flexing of the liner makes it come unglued.
How to keep the water from getting under? The water that makes its way through the seam drains out of the factory holes in the front of the bed but I still worry about the moisture under there causing rust.
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I tugged on the little hose on the back pass. side of the engine,(5.4),...
and I could hear the vacuum leak that is apparently causing the erratic idle, and PO171 & PO174 to come up.
I know this hose is hooked to the Charge motion Control Valve on the back of the manifold,..I can't imagine what it does, as it terminates with some kind of plug or check valve??? Haynes say's to remove the entire manifold to get to the CMCV.
I can see it with a mirror,. I am thinking maybe long needle nose from Harbor freight,...bend the tip short,..maybe be able to change it out?????
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2004 VW touareg v6 - engine light on - autozone diagnosed as code P0456. Possibly gas cap, so I replaced with aftermarket gas cap from auto zone. Light still on. What can I do or replace to fix problem. I read something about a N60 or N80 valve. Is this something I can buy and replace myself. Most of my mechanical experience is related to working on a 85 CJ7 with an inline 6cyl or Chevy trucks. If the N valve is a easy fix, any instructions and pictures of how to do this.
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So I was was tired of trying to tune my Holley 650 and finally threw in the towel and got a 600 Edelbrock. When the holley was on there the engine had the slightest surge but I was never able to pin down a vacuum leak. The PCV valve made quite the racket while running.
Now the edelbrock is on there and no matter what I did I could not get the idle below 750 (4 speed truck). I checked the carb, manifold, hoses, and boosters and no vacuum leaks. I disconnected the PCV port at the carb and plugged it and it immediately stalled.
I went down to the local speed shop and got a new PCV grommet that has a small opening (restricting) and some foam filter material in it. Got home and popped it in and the idle dropped right down to a near stall. Adjusted the screw and she's running fine.
Now for the question. Did I fix the problem or just band aid it? Has anyone heard of having to restrict the PCV circuit?
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I have a 2002 F150 which has a small leak somewhere in the radiator system. I am looking to see if recommended using one of the Bar Leaks products for fixing cooling system leaks. I guess it is an aluminum based product the adheres to the inner services of the cooling system and can stop leaks.
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I was using the method of spraying starter fluid around the intake and found a pretty significant vacuum leak around the throttle shaft on the drivers side. The carb is a 2 barrel holley. What are some different ways to seal a throttle shaft vacuum leak? Could I take it apart and seal it with a plastic O-ring for now?
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4601 DBP, just under 35k on it. At idle, i hear a slight whistling almost like squeaking. I took it to my independent tech and he showed me that if he removed the dipstick for a second while idling, the noise stopped, due to lack of vaccuum, so he believes its in the pcv system. I am still under powertrain and obviously federal emissions 8yr 80,000. Go start your R and listen at idle inside the car for a whistle or squeaking noise that seems like its inside the passenger dash.
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I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer and CEL is on, I got the code checked and its showing P0456 ("Evaporative emission system very small leak"). They recommended that I replace the gas cap, but I already tried that without luck. I have heard that the tubes in the system go bad and need replacing. I know some are located behind the back wheel but I wanted to give the ones under the hood a visual inspection so I have some clue when I take it for a repair.
My trouble is that I don't know what tubes I'm looking at! But I have some pictures, so at least we have that!
So the first one is zoomed out of the engine (obvious right?), just so you can see where everything is going. The hose I'm suspect of is the one that's to the left of the motor oil cap, the one I'm holding in the second picture. If you can see it, there's a split running down for about 6" -10"
What I'd like to know is did I assume right that this is (at least one) of the hoses causing my trouble with the evap system? And if it's not, which ones should I be checking out?
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I've got a coolant leak on the drivers side of the radiator. I don't drive the vehicle that much because I use it primarily for towing in the good weather seasons. I drive it once a week unless we have snow than I drive it more.
I have seen small amounts of coolant (yellow/gold) in the snow when parked. It does not appear to be very much, but it does concern me.
Anyway, here is a link to some pictures : [URL]....
Where to look for this leak. I looked from the bottom and the top (without access to a lift) and I couldn't see anything revealing.
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It all started with a fuel cap loose light (it wasn't) after a day or two the MIL came on and got this code I reset it but I'm sure it'll come back since there's probably a real leak. What can I check myself to find this leak?
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This is the code i pulled from Vag. Its not the gas cap...
VCDS Release 805.0: Generic OBD2
Mode 03: Emission related fault codes
Address 10 (Engine): 1 Fault Found:
P0456 - EVAP System: Very Small Leak Detected
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Got an engine light on today and had it checked at Advance Auto. It is P0442, "small leak in Evaporative emission control system". One article I read said to remove and retighten the gas cap, clear the code then see if it occurs again. If it does then replace the gas cap with a new OEM cap, and try clearing the code again to see what happens, as a first step in the troubleshooting process. I retightened the gas cap, but don't know how to clear the code and turn off the engine light.
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When the brake pedal is first depressed, it sounds like air is being pushed out of it, sort of like flatulence, and are less responsive. When i pump the brake, it fills with air and tightens. The brakes work when I depress the pedal all the way down. Also, I have to pull my driver-side door shut a few times before it will close and lock with the vacuum system. Otherwise it won't close. Eventually the door closes and I can lock it when I shut the door just right. (My mechanic and I are working together to find replacement locks from junk yards) Is this the master cylinder? Or could this be due to a leak in the vacuum system since my door does not readily close? Or is it something else entirely? 1978 Mercedes 240D...
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I have a 2004 F250 CCSB 6.0 diesel. The problem I'm having is that vacuum is bleeding off when the control is set to OFF or MAX A/C. I also have no vacuum at the MAX A/C level to close the heater valve. Looking for a vacuum schematic for an 03 or 04 truck with manual controls or how to know what the malfunction is?
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I have a 2004 Ford Escape 3.0 V6 FWD, and the air conditioning has been blowing only to defrost for a few weeks now. After many searches online, most sources seem to agree it is a vacuum leak, as the selector switch is vacuum driven if you want anything except defrost. I popped the hood and within one minute I found one open vacuum line that looks like it has been worn in two.
The line in question goes from the vacuum canister towards the passenger side of the firewall, then goes to a T connector, then a line (the one that is broken) continues towards the heater core lines to where the break in the line is. I found a picture online of what it should look like, but I am having trouble accessing the line that goes through the firewall and behind the glove compartment. I am pretty sure this vacuum line continues through the firewall between the two heater lines, but after that I am stumped.
I popped the glove box down out of the way and I see two thin vacuum lines and a small metal "can" nearby. The black line goes from a fitting and into the A/C bundle, and the white line goes from the top of the metal canister and down into the same bundle. My main question is which line controls the AC selector, and how do I pass a replacement line through that part of the firewall to make a good connection, as it seems the break is at the firewall itself with no extra sticking out for me to connect to.
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CEL came on after a couple of driving cycles showing code P0456 (evap emission control system very small leak detected)............. car drives fine has good gas mileage.....
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I recently purchased a used 1999 F250 Super Duty with about 150k miles on it. The truck runs great and I have no complaints but there are a few things that need to be taken care of. It looks like there is a very small fuel leak where the filler neck ties into the rubber hose that runs into the fuel tank. There is a thin film of diesel along the side of the tank, on the leaf spring, the air bag and various other places. Nothing is dripping. I want to drop the tank and replace the hose. The Haynes manual says to depressurize the whole fuel system--is this really necessary if I don't plan on doing anything to the system aside from dropping the tank?
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