Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Sluggish Throttle - 5 Seconds Delay After Hitting The Gas
Jan 27, 2005
I've got an 04' F150 and the ONLY problem I have with it is a ridiculously sluggish throttle. I bought the Superchips Tuner in hopes of eliminating this, but the delay in the throttle is still there (power is much better however). When I talk delay, I am talking hitting the gas and probably a realistic .5-1 sec delay. It is quite annoying to say the least.
My question...is there something that I can do myself to improve the throttle response? I drove an older 150..probably an 02 or 03 and it felt sooooo much more powerful just do to the throttle. I am even willing to ditch the Superchips if the Ford re-tune would do a better job.
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I have an automatic 2004 f150 fx4 with a 5.4 engine. I just bought the truck and noticed the other day that when I shift into reverse, there is a 1-2 second delay. Sometimes it will shift quicker than other times. Drive seems to be a little more swift I think. Everything seems to run smooth and the shifting is very smoot other than the delay. Is this normal or what could be some of the causes. The previous owner has the ATF changed this pst summer and it looks and smells fine other than maybe having to much fluid.
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Triton 4.6, new air filter, throttle body cleaned, new fuel filter. Seems sluggish off idle, and when I let off accelerator, rpm's take a few seconds to come down. If the truck is setting still, a quick hit on the throttle takes a second for the engine to build rpm's.
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I have a 08 6.4l F250SD. At 127k miles, it has been a great truck. All service has been performed by dealer. When I shift from Park into drive there is a 3-5 second delay, and when it drops into drive the truck rocks. Once driving there are no shift issues. Into reverse there are no issues.
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My 2006 V6 Camry XLE feels like there is a delay between hitting the pedal and the car accelerating. I also notice it bucks (changes gears at the wrong time) occasionally when pressing the pedal than backing off of it a little. The hesitation has always been there but lately its been really bothering me because I drove someone else car (Hyundai Sonata 4 cylinder )and felt how smooth it accelerated and how responsive it was at lower speeds. I know this car has drive by wire which probably has something to do with the problem. How to alleviate this issue? I don't think there's anything mechanically wrong.
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I've been noticing over the past couple years that sometimes when I accelerate, there's a slight delay between the time I press my foot down on the pedal and when acceleration actually happens. From reading other threads it would seem that the most common fix is to re-flash the ECU. I bought a DiabloSport Predator tuner along with a CAI a while back to improve performance/gas mileage and I was wondering if there's a way I can use the tuner to re-flash.
If not, do most ford repair shops already carry these? I don't want to buy a flash programmer. Also, if the shop does carry this type of an item, what is the average cost to get it re-flashed?
I own an '04 F150 XLT 5.4l.
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I bought my 2005 f150 three years ago and the auto headlights never worked. I have just turned them on manually. Couple weeks ago they started to delay coming on and now they do not work at all. All other lights work including fog lights.
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2007 F150 King Ranche 4wd 5.4 192000 miles.
I started noticing a little stutter when trying to hold 45 mph if I hit a mild incline, and also at 70 or so if i hit an incline.
Around the same time, I noticed that acceleration seemed sluggish when getting on the interstate. Gas mileage dropped from 16-17 mpg combined to 12-13 mpg combined.
Historically, since I bought the truck 3 years ago, if I go WOT to get up to highway speed (Not my normal mode of driving, more of a test) I would get a misfire on cylinder 8.
About 2 weeks ago, driving around town, I got a check engine light. The code said it was rich on bank 2. Cleared the code, it has not come back.
Here is what I have done:
Flushed the tranny (Vehicle history shows this has been done consistently since original purchase)
Changed all 8 plugs (none broke!) and all 8 COPs. - Fixed the misfire on cylinder 8.
Still sluggish and still have the stutter at 45 and 70 on an incline. I know it's not a racecar, but 0-60 in 19.6 seconds seems quite unreasonable.
New Fuel Filter
New Air filter
Cleaned MAF sensor
Had the back pressure on exhaust checked. No blockage there.
My torque app tells me the TPS is functioning normally.
No codes are being thrown, no CEL at this time.
What am I missing? I have a reader that will chart up to 8 sensors as I drive.
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Driving into work this morning I noticed that my car was a bit sluggish. So in the name of science (mainly curiousity) I decided, that I would try to punch it. Came to find out that my girl is runnin a little sluggish. Turbo was pulling as hard as it normally does, and my gauge was saying that im only hitting 9lbs when usually its around 11lbs. Could this be a sign of my turbo going out and now is time for a k04-22 or is it time to change the springs in my 007?
by the way I just rolled over 113k. had all the services done at 104k
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I got a 2007 f150 5.4 triton motor 94000 miles all stock just gots mod k&n filter top end rebuilt due to cam phasers and timing guides for the past year when i make a real sudden stop or sometimes quick turn the truck will bog a bit the i give it gas and will drop to 100 rpms and if i keep my foot on the gas the truck will die if i keep my foot off the gas it will keep rolling then die after attempting to accelerate fuel pump driver module is in good shape with spacers the old code i get when this happens is p0191 for fuel rail pressure sensor although i just replaced that what could it be?
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I have a 2008 F-150. When moving gear selector from park to either reverse or drive, trans has a delay engaging. After engagement, it runs fine, shifts ok, downshifts ok....
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When I have the A/C running in my truck it idles at like 900 RPM's if not 950 RPM's. It also doesn't appear to sweat like normal vehicles do. Most every other vehicle I've owned sweat when running the A/C it does but just not a lot. I hear it hiss like the drip is hitting something hot when I shut the door on the truck.
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Still having issues with the transmission on my 05 F350. I posted before that it would take a few seconds to go into drive or reverse. The fixes were to change filters and do hot flush. I had the dealer do a hot flush, and then I put about 1000 miles on it. That didn't seem to fix anything, so I went back in and asked for more info. They did not change the filters. I thought they did, but found out they did not after the fact, so I decided to change the filters myself.
The interior filter was easy to change. The fluid was clean, and the magnet had shavings on it but nothing that seemed extraordinary. The exterior filter is impossible to get off. I reviewed posts on here before trying, so first was the impact wrench, then the pipe wrench, then the pipe wrench with a block wedged in to keep the thing from bending, still no luck. The cast nut broke off well before the pipe wrench came out of the drawer. How to get that thing off. I read on here somewhere that no fluid goes through that until 180 degrees, is that correct?
Scanguage says it rarely goes over 160, except for last evening when I was stuck in traffic. It went to 187, with ECT at 208. During this period, traveling under 40 most of the time, the transmission was shifting erratically, to the point I wanted to pull over and allow it to cool down. But traffic broke free, speed went up, and temps went down. Shifting returned to normal, except when trying to engage drive or reverse. The 3-4 second delay persists at any temp, and there doesn't seem to be any slippage. Just delayed and sometimes hard engagements. I'm at a loss for whats wrong.
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Well it's been an ongoing problem with my 4r100, but last week it all come to a point. Reverse delay is getting to near 10seconds then abruptly engages. My 1-2 shift is so soft I have to look down and see my tach to make sure it shifted up. I now have trans squeal during ever shift including OD. Also have a loud screech that gets louder the faster you go, BUT the old girl is still moving the truck and oddly the fluid isn't burnt looking or smells burnt? That's one has me puzzled...
So Tuesday after work I'm pulling the transmission (in the driveway) and bringing it to the shop Thursday. Getting a billet steel converter, having all the planetary gears upgraded to six and four pinion, one way sprag will now be solid steel instead of the plastic one Ford put there, all the bearings will be upgraded to Torrington, I'll have the 45 roller sprag bearing upgrade as well as the 17 roller for reverse, I'm going with Borg Warner and Kolen steels, new solenoid pack.
I'm having the pump pump machined and sonnex upgrades done to it, spiral snap ring on OD piston, case will be machines not hand resurfaced, reverse gear plastic washers will be removed and the gear is getting machined for a Torrington bearing and steel spacer, clutch drum will be machined for a 360 spiral clip, locking snap ring on the OD piston, center support will have some machine work done to it, and I'm having the forward drum plug removed and the hole will be tapped for a steel plug.
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I have a 2006 F450 6.0 Super Heavy Duty. The Problem that I am having is when I turn the key it wont crank over. In order for it to start I have to hold the key in the crank position (like i am trying to start it) for about 20+ seconds, and then it will start cranking over. After it cranks over it starts just fine no problems. This only occurs when I start the truck up for the first time each day. After the initial start of the day its fine. (FYI I turn the ignition to the on position and just let it set it still takes me turning the key to the crank position and holding it 20+ seconds).
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My truck decided to have some issues last weekend coming home from a friends house. After being on the road for about an hour the truck shuddered, lost speed and was incredibly sluggish trying to get up the hill. It flashed the CEL and then went out. I was doing about 75 with the cruise on.
After slowing down to about 60 it stopped the shuddering and resumed operations as normal. Until about 20 minutes later when it repeated the above.
The next day I grabbed my reader and found the P0302 and P0306 codes. I cleared the codes and took it for a "test" drive up and down the mountain to see if it would trip the codes again. It didn't flip the codes. I thought I might have been dealing with a "one off" issue and left it alone for a few days.
Two days ago the CEL light came on and stayed on this time. Sure enough P0306. Cylinder 2 did not throw a code this time. After doing some research on here I ordered two new COPs and bought a mechanics stethoscope and some new spark plugs just in case.
The stethoscope confirms that cylinder 6 is having some issues. The COPs came in today so I'll take it apart tomorrow and see what I see. I'll be looking at both the COPs and the plugs to see what may be causing the problem. The "nice" thing about this is that at least it's one of the easier COPs to get to.
Should be a nice day for working on the truck.
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Feel that VW has tuned down the throttle response of 2.5 I5. Well after having the car 2 weeks now, I don't hate the engine as much, and I don't think the issue I am having is with the engine it-self. In sport mode and tip mode it is much better, Once the car decides to give me what I want, it has plenty power. But in auto mode, It has to do with starting off from first gear at a stop. I really believe it has to be a software problem the way the throttle is mapped in the DBW. The problem is there is little throttle response off the line. Like I push the accelerator down halfway quickly, and the engine throttle opens maybe 1/8 and slowly goes to 1/2 like 5 seconds later. It's more of a drive-ability problem. It's like no other car i have ever driven. If I give half throttle, I expect the car to open to half throttle immediately, and not delay it. I really hope VW comes up with a fix for this, I'm sure it is just a programing problem. So am I the only one?
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Experiencing sluggish throttle response on the EFI Ecoboost? I have had several incidents where I'm needing to change lanes fast and the response is a dead second or two before the motor catches up to the throttle position. Then, it rockets forward at full throttle to catch up. By that time it's too late to change lanes and I have to be on the brakes hard to keep from rear ending the guy in front of me. I'm coming from a carburetored Toyota Tacoma that was far more responsive (minus the power) then this truck. I never felt hesitant to jump on it and go. Now I feel like my life depends on waiting until I have all day to change lanes, make a left turn or pass a slow moving vehicle on a two lane road. Is this something the dealer can adjust?
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Ok I am getting a (6R140) transmission behaviour every morning drive or later in the day after the transmission cools down. I am experiencing a 2-3 second delay of engagement when putting truck in Reverse. This happens EVERY time whether transmission is cold or warmed up. I am also having very hard/harsh shift fares going into 3rd gear and 5th gear with the 3rd gear being the worse of the two. Also experiencing these hard/harsh shift when downshifting as well.
I took the truck to my local dealer and I let it sit over night in their lot so they could experience it at its worst after sitting all night. They definitely recognized the issue. But since it wasn't throwing and codes. I find this an unacceptable answer.
I brought to their attention that this issue is well documented online and a lot are having success with performing TSB 11-7-10 (replacing solenoids) They looked it up and said my truck doesn't apply to TSB because of the build date. My window sticker and VIN # implies the truck was built 10-11-2010. Which from my understanding, does fall under the required TSB. None the less, I insisted that I know I'm out of warranty and I will just pay to have this TSB performed. They refused.
What should I do? I know everyday I run my truck with this issue it is decreasing the reliability of this transmission and it will most likely end with a full transmission replacement.
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I've noticed that my throttle response is pretty weak. Doesn't seem to just go when ya put the pedal down. I mean it goes but not as fast as i think it should. is this how it is on all our cars? kinda seems like it has a hesitation or something. Anything I could do about this?
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I have a 2008 RX350 AWD with only 500 miles on it so far and I am starting to get concerned about what seems to be excessive slipping or a delay in response in the trans. Under normal forward driving the trans seems to shift very smooth. The problem occurs under situations where I am coming to a near stop, basically coasting, and then have to accelerate again to continue forward. This could be in a slow moving traffic type situation or when maneuvering through a parking lot. When I try to execute a small increase in speed the engine revs but the trans doesn't respond.
It's as though it's in neutral and unable to decide which gear it should be in. After a 2 to as long as a 5 second delay it finally engages and moves forward. The condition is even worse if I am heading into a slight incline. Once it is engaged everything is fine and the subsequent shifts are very smooth. When starting from a complete stop it works perfectly. I've never had a transmission slip this much in any vehicle. There was one situation where I was almost broadsided because the RX delayed in moving forward.
I realize this is a subjective call but I am trying to determine what level of slipping in the trans is considered normal under the conditions I've described. I have searched and read past threads about issues with the earlier model years but I thought they were resolved by now. I haven't taken the RX in for service yet but I fear I will get the standard - everything is working as designed - answer from my dealership.
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