Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Slow To Start / Crank Over For 10 - 15 Seconds
Apr 18, 2010
06 5.4 screw. This truck sits in the garage all week long as I drive a work van daily. When I take the truck out on the weekends it starts up normally at the house and when I stop someplace for a few minutes it starts right back up but if it sits for an hour or more it will crank over for 10-15 seconds, it does always start back up. It always runs and drives fine, it is all factory as far as the motor, intake, exhaust, tuner etc. What to do with it.
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I have an automatic 2004 f150 fx4 with a 5.4 engine. I just bought the truck and noticed the other day that when I shift into reverse, there is a 1-2 second delay. Sometimes it will shift quicker than other times. Drive seems to be a little more swift I think. Everything seems to run smooth and the shifting is very smoot other than the delay. Is this normal or what could be some of the causes. The previous owner has the ATF changed this pst summer and it looks and smells fine other than maybe having to much fluid.
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I know this is a ford truck site but today I was trying to clean some corrosion off my battery post on my ford fusion with water. Well when I went to crank it up it was slow to crank and it has absolutely no power, won't rev at all. From what I already knew, it seems like some moisture got in the distributor cap. Am I right and if I am were can I find the dang thing and how can I fix it?
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2008 F150 XLT 5.4L
1. Replaced fuse #9 for fuel pump.
2. Checked fuse #9 with check light, power to both sides is good
3. No check engine light
4. Battery is 1.5 years old. Just in case I charged for 1 hr.
5. Replaced fuel filter. Possible clog in fuel line.
6. Detached fuel line at fuel filter, turned key on and fuel came out of line. Seems like fuel pump is working.
7. Every time I can hear the fuel pump prim when I turn the key.
8. Relay#1 starter solenoid, I swapped with relay #2 and also replaced
9. FPDM replacement, I removed and it looked to be good.
10. Light checked all fuses, only fuse #5, fuse#35, and Fuse#36 did not have power. These fuses don't seem to have anything to do with starting or fuel to the engine.
11. Inertia switch check is good
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07 f150with 5.4. At start up in morning, sounds as if oil starved to top end for few seconds. Only does on initial start up in the mornings. Use the recommended oil and ford oil filter. Had truck for 1.5 years now. Never noticed this until lately. Oil level fine.????? What is going on??
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Went to leave this morning and my '05 with 135K would crank but not start. Pulled air cleaner and sprayed a little starting fluid and it fired some so I had a feeling it was fuel related. Reset the fuel cut-out with no luck. I then remember seeing the issues on the forum about the fuel pump driver module corrosion and failures. Bought a new one at the local dealer, installed it and it fired right up.
Pics below...from the side it didn't look to bad but was holed through on the bottom. I highly recommend replacing this if you live in the rust belt.
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I have a 05 f150, on initial startup ALL of my needles shake for about 5 seconds and then return to normal operation. What is wrong.
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So I used my 07 F150 4x4 Lariat (5.4 l) yesterday and it ran with no problems. Today, I went to start it to go to work and it would crank over strong and fast but not run. I filled up two days ago and it has been below freezing the last couple of days. What to check as I currently have my wifes explorer for work tonight.
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I was working on trailer lights and now no trailer lights and relays click but eng no crank. Batt has 12volts.
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2004 New Body F150 5.4L
Removed all cops, plugs, intake manifold and driver side head to repair bad valve. Removed Left side cat pipes as well. Had to disconnect most of upper engine harness and had to remove cpm and battery.
Repaired all mechanical issues and reconnected all electrical connectors and now when I turn the key to start the red security light on dash is still blinking steadily and I get no crank no start situation and it blows #34 PCM fuse which is injector/fuel fuse as soon as hit start.
Here are some things I have done trying to trouble shoot.
Battery shows 13.65 V
Unplugged FPDM back on rear frame rail and disconnected far left harness (looking from front) from PCM (should be engine harness), both the smaller plug that plugs into another harness and the main plug to the PCM.
Now when I turn on the key the security light goes out, the dash display says engine fail safe mode and the motor will turn over when I turn the key. This is still with the #34 fuse blown.
If I plug the engine harness back into the PCM, same no click no start.
If I leave engine harness unplugged from PCM and plug FPDM back in and turn key now it goes back to no crank no start and the security light blinks rapidly.
Only way I can get anything to turn over is far left harness disconnected, both plugs and the fdpm disconnected. Display says Engine Fail Safe Mode, and the security light goes out when I turn the key to start. I'm at a standstill as to what to do. The truck started fine prior to me taking it down for service.
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I have a 2006 Ford Expedition with 95,000 miles that has a crank but intermittent no start problem. When it does happen, it will eventually start after one to two tries. I don't have to wait to start it again and I don't have any problems while it is running. Two or three times in the past two months it will sputter out and die (even though I am pressing the gas pedal) right after starting. I'll crank it again and it starts just fine. I have no problems while driving at freeway speeds or around town.
I never had any check engine lights come on so I replaced the battery and the fuel filter. I finally got two codes and replaced the fuel pump driver module and the fuel rail pressure sensor. The codes went off after replacing these two parts. I can hear my fuel pump turn on every time I start the vehicle. I have even taken the entire fuse panel apart to check Relay 303 which is soldered into the circuit board. It is fine and so is every other fuse in the panel.
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I have a 2007 F-150 5.4l that does not crank when you turn the key to start. I have tried jumping the starter over and it does crank after that but it will not start. I am completely stumped by this and I'm not sure what the problem is?
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I have an 04 f150 and just changed the alternator yesterday, and 4 hours later it wouldn't start starter clicks but no crank.
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Wifes F150 was turned off while she went shopping when she came out it would not start would crank but would not run. Got it home hooked up my scanner, had no codes, but the Service Engine Soon was illuminated on dash. Just wondering if this has anything to do with the PCM. Has a 4.6L engine, 2X4.
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I own a 2005 f-250 superduty with the 6L diesel. Just recently when I leave to work in the morning I notice the trans shifts slow through the gears and when it does start to shift it will start slipping then kinda vibrate for a few seconds then finally shifts into the next gear. It will do this through all the gears until I get up to speed on the highway. After it warms up it shifts and drives great until I let it sit for around 8hrs or more. I really hope I don't need a new Transmission considering I bought this truck as is from the dealership just a little over a month ago. I have checked the trans fluid it is full, I even drained all the fluid and replace with new and it still does the same thing.
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2004 LTD 220K miles.
Starting to rust and trying to decide if its time to part with it. Runs perfect. But started having the slow crank when sits for a while. Yesterday would not start at work. Battery new. Volts test good when running. Alternator replaced before but could not tell you if it was 100K miles ago or 50K miles ago.
Anyway, started the look for drain process by putting multimeter in series in neg post. Drain is .135 A. Started the fuse pulling but every time I open door I have to wait a while for lights to go off and acc to turn off before it settles to .135A. Is there a way to trick the car into thinking doors are closed?
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I have a 2001 Ford F150 Lariat. It has the 5.4L Triton motor. I was having starting problems as such the truck would crank and not start or crank, start and barely idle and stall within 5 seconds. It was NOT tripping any lights. I was told it was a possible fuel issue. I have since changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, as well as the hoses in the rear connected to the tank. Truck started, ran great, even seemed to have more power. Ran great for about a week. I was on my way out yesterday about 2 miles from home when the truck just stalled out on me. It is now having the same issues it was having before I changed the pump, filter, etc. What the issue may be? Clogged line? Fuel injector? If it is an injector how can I tell which one?
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Alright, my 1999 7.3 keeps dying on me in the morning. About two weeks ago I noticed it started to have a weaker start up, even though it has two brand new batteries. Once it starts up, I get around the block and it dies there every time. Then I have to crank it for about 15 seconds for it to start again.
The crank gets faster and faster until it finally start, and the engine is very choppy, like its starving for fuel. After about ten seconds of that it return back to a smooth idle. I then take off, and about 50 yards later it does the same thing. After it does it the second time, the truck runs just fine for the rest of the day with no problems.
I have noticed that when if I turn the truck on and let it idle for 10 minutes first in the morning, it won't die on me. I replaced the camshaft position sensor thinking it was that, but it wasn't.
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I have 2001 F250 7.3L 261k miles.
Over the last few months, I have noticed that my truck is taking longer & longer to start after sitting for a long time (i.e. every morning, after work, etc.) When the problem first started (3-4 months ago) it would crank for 2 seconds & nothing so I would turn it off, let the "wait to start" light go off again (depending on outside temp 10-20 seconds) & then it would crank & usually fire right over like it was new. That seemed to happen only in the morning when it was 70 degrees or colder outside but no problem after work when it was 80+ degrees.
As the weather has gotten colder, it has gotten progressively worse. A couple of weeks ago, it was in the 40s in the morning & it took a solid 8 or 9 minutes of cranking for a few seconds, then trying again before it started. Once it started it did "chuga chug" a couple of times before it smoothed out. Last week when it was 16 degrees in the morning, it wouldn't start at all. I tried for a solid 15 minutes before I gave up.
I will say that as it has gotten worse over the last couple of months, I have noticed that it's cranking w/o firing but I will hear it fire once or twice per crank before it will fire up & run. Once it starts, it runs like a champ. No studders, stalls, slow acceleration, etc. Pulls like it always has. The weirdest part about it is that once it starts & runs for 30-60 seconds, I can shut it off & it'll fire right up every time. If I get it up to full operating temperature, I can go back & start it right up 2 or 3 hours later w/o a problem.
I did notice my oil cooler is leaking pretty badly (that will be fixed this weekend) & my valley has fluid in it but it's hard to tell if it's diesel, oil or a combination of the two because my truck is setup to run on WMO (waste motor oil). I have dual tanks so the OEM tank is diesel & the auxillary tank is WMO. I have 2 mechanical fuel pressure gauges on my fuel bowl, 1 pre & 1 post fuel filter as well as an aftermarket Walbro fuel pump. The fuel pressure when running on WMO has always bounced a little bit between (65-75 psi) but the fuel pressure on diesel has always held solid at 75 psi until recently when I have noticed that it flutters a very small amount between 73-75 psi.
I have verified that the GP Relay works & was leaning towards a glow plug problem but considering it was having troubles at 70 degrees ambient temperature, I'm hesitant to think that's the true problem. I think that might just be adding to the problem. I live in the south so my truck doesn't have a block heater but I'm going to add one this weekend when I replace the oil cooler gaskets & o-rings.
I'm also going to pick up a new Android tablet today (replace my broken one) so I can use the Torque Pro app to monitor ICP, HPOP & InjPW. Finally, I had a DP Tuner chip on it & to remove that as the possible cause, I removed it & the same symptoms continued.
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I've developed a problem, usually when starting, that the truck will crank over, start and idle for a few seconds and then shut off. The few seconds it idles it doesn't get any throttle input. I'll crank it back over taking a little more than usual to get it started. When it does start it seems slightly sluggish but that quickly, like almost immediately goes away and the throttle is working again.
Oh, 2001, 7.3 stock w/200k
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It has only happened 2 times so far. I understand it's normal when it's really cold outside. But it's still warm here. I booked an appointment with dealer next week but I want to knowledge myself before going. Can this be battery? Or starter? I remember there's a common problem on my model that a oil leak will damage the starter. Will that cause this symptom?
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