Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Slow To Crank / No Power And Won't Rev At All - Distributor Cap Location
Feb 1, 2012
I know this is a ford truck site but today I was trying to clean some corrosion off my battery post on my ford fusion with water. Well when I went to crank it up it was slow to crank and it has absolutely no power, won't rev at all. From what I already knew, it seems like some moisture got in the distributor cap. Am I right and if I am were can I find the dang thing and how can I fix it?
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06 5.4 screw. This truck sits in the garage all week long as I drive a work van daily. When I take the truck out on the weekends it starts up normally at the house and when I stop someplace for a few minutes it starts right back up but if it sits for an hour or more it will crank over for 10-15 seconds, it does always start back up. It always runs and drives fine, it is all factory as far as the motor, intake, exhaust, tuner etc. What to do with it.
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2004 LTD 220K miles.
Starting to rust and trying to decide if its time to part with it. Runs perfect. But started having the slow crank when sits for a while. Yesterday would not start at work. Battery new. Volts test good when running. Alternator replaced before but could not tell you if it was 100K miles ago or 50K miles ago.
Anyway, started the look for drain process by putting multimeter in series in neg post. Drain is .135 A. Started the fuse pulling but every time I open door I have to wait a while for lights to go off and acc to turn off before it settles to .135A. Is there a way to trick the car into thinking doors are closed?
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I have 2001 F250 7.3L 261k miles.
Over the last few months, I have noticed that my truck is taking longer & longer to start after sitting for a long time (i.e. every morning, after work, etc.) When the problem first started (3-4 months ago) it would crank for 2 seconds & nothing so I would turn it off, let the "wait to start" light go off again (depending on outside temp 10-20 seconds) & then it would crank & usually fire right over like it was new. That seemed to happen only in the morning when it was 70 degrees or colder outside but no problem after work when it was 80+ degrees.
As the weather has gotten colder, it has gotten progressively worse. A couple of weeks ago, it was in the 40s in the morning & it took a solid 8 or 9 minutes of cranking for a few seconds, then trying again before it started. Once it started it did "chuga chug" a couple of times before it smoothed out. Last week when it was 16 degrees in the morning, it wouldn't start at all. I tried for a solid 15 minutes before I gave up.
I will say that as it has gotten worse over the last couple of months, I have noticed that it's cranking w/o firing but I will hear it fire once or twice per crank before it will fire up & run. Once it starts, it runs like a champ. No studders, stalls, slow acceleration, etc. Pulls like it always has. The weirdest part about it is that once it starts & runs for 30-60 seconds, I can shut it off & it'll fire right up every time. If I get it up to full operating temperature, I can go back & start it right up 2 or 3 hours later w/o a problem.
I did notice my oil cooler is leaking pretty badly (that will be fixed this weekend) & my valley has fluid in it but it's hard to tell if it's diesel, oil or a combination of the two because my truck is setup to run on WMO (waste motor oil). I have dual tanks so the OEM tank is diesel & the auxillary tank is WMO. I have 2 mechanical fuel pressure gauges on my fuel bowl, 1 pre & 1 post fuel filter as well as an aftermarket Walbro fuel pump. The fuel pressure when running on WMO has always bounced a little bit between (65-75 psi) but the fuel pressure on diesel has always held solid at 75 psi until recently when I have noticed that it flutters a very small amount between 73-75 psi.
I have verified that the GP Relay works & was leaning towards a glow plug problem but considering it was having troubles at 70 degrees ambient temperature, I'm hesitant to think that's the true problem. I think that might just be adding to the problem. I live in the south so my truck doesn't have a block heater but I'm going to add one this weekend when I replace the oil cooler gaskets & o-rings.
I'm also going to pick up a new Android tablet today (replace my broken one) so I can use the Torque Pro app to monitor ICP, HPOP & InjPW. Finally, I had a DP Tuner chip on it & to remove that as the possible cause, I removed it & the same symptoms continued.
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If I leave my truck sit for a couple of days, the batteries are noticeably weaker. It's fine overnight, but two nights and it's slow to crank. Three and it won't start without charging the batteries. I checked for a drain last night and found that it was drawing 1.2 amps.
That seems like a lot, no?
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2004 F150 FX4. Installing a sub on my truck - amp location. I am thinking of putting it under the dash on the drivers side. It will be behind the brake pedal, but way out of the way - like towards the corner.
Since I cannot add pics, attached is a link
[URL].....
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Where do I plug in a brake controller on a 2008 Ford F-150. I know that it's somewhere behind the dash, but I don't know where?
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My horn suddenly stays on when I hit the horn and it doesn't beep when I lock the door with the key fob. Only way to turn it off is to shut off the truck. I thought it may be a faulty horn relay. I've asked many mechanics where the horn relay is located and every one gives a different answer. Under the hood, in the driver side kick panel, under the dash, near the horn itself. Where the horn relay is located on a 2004 F-150....
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Would like to change the fuel filter on my 04 F150. I have about 86K miles on it and not sure how long it has been since changed because I bought the truck with 75K on it. Is this easy job? Also where is the filter located.
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If I start it on a cold morning and leave it idling for 20 minutes it will finish warming up within a mile or two. But if I just take off driving right after I start the engine, it takes close to 10 minutes to finally start warming the cab up. Is this normal for these trucks or is it possible the thermostat needs to be changed?
I found this service bulletin, which matches a symptom my truck has. Is it possible the rolling fan at cold idle could be keeping the engine from warming up as quickly?
05-4-3 COOLING FAN CLUTCH NOISE - VEHICLES BUILT PRIOR TO 10/1/2004 - 5.4L AND 4.6L ENGINES
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What is the location of the idle air control valve by telling me where its at or a picture location?
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I have a 2006 F-150 XL with the 4.2 V6, auto that has a slow coolant leak that I cannot find.
I bought the truck this spring, 190K, drives good, but it leaks coolant. I have added probably 3 gallons of water this summer, this does not bode well for winter.
I can't see any wet spots or steam, but do smell anti-freeze occasionally from outside the cab.
I don't really want to try easter-egging the repair (replacing things that might fix it).
How to find the leak? Or should I just use some form of stop leak.
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Looking to change out my front differential cover tomorrow, cover is pitted, rusted, corroded, and leaking at the seals. While under there I want to inspect the vent for the axle and differential (and replace if it's clogged - which I believe is leading to the seal leaking). Looking for info about the vent tube location on the front axle? Thought I read somewhere it was on the cover itself, turns out that's a negative.
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where is the oil sending unit on a 1996 ford, E150, 5.0 motor.
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my 05 is giving me these mini shakes when I accelerate and slow down. I also get a little bit at highway speeds. I was walking around the truck today and I noticed that the back right tire doesn't have a weight on it. I thought this was wierd. Could a weight have fallen off thus causing the vibrations, or is this normal for one wheel to not have a weight?
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I am a dedicated Ford truck owner. Both vehicles I have had are both F150's. My first one was a 5.4L v8 03 and my current is a 5.4L v8 06 4x4, seen below.
When I bought the truck it was straight piped. I went ahead and did a GOTTS mod on it. The truck also has the factory tow package. I replaced the spark plugs and engine oil (Amsoil High Mileage). I did a couple basic things like putting in the light bar and replacing the headlight housings. Other than that it it pretty much the same as when I bought it. I cleaned the throttle body and sensors, using the proper cleaners. I ran two cans of SeaFoam through as well.
With my last truck, I 'flushed' the transmission (not a actual flush, but I changed the tranny oil about 7 times in a short period of time). A buddy suggested I do it, as it was a DOT truck and maybe wasn't treated the best. It was a automatic, just like my 06. Would that do any actual good?
I have noticed that truck has a spongy/delayed throttle response. The engine idles normally and there are no codes being thrown. I had a similar issue with my 03 but it had a cable to the pedal and I just had to tighten that up and it was better. Perhaps because of the straight pipe and GOTTS and no tune?
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I have a 2007 f150 lariat with 88000 miles on it that I just bought and during slow throttle from 40-50. I am getting a sporadic shudder right when it goes into overdrive is worse when going up a light grade it goes away when i get to about 60 and whenever i give it full throttle it acts really sluggish like the tranny is slipping but it shifts very smooth.
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I just bought a used '05 F-150 and recently I noticed more a shaking I guess you'd call it. When I start from 0 to 80 nothing seems wrong, but when I slow down to coasting like 40 - 45mph and accelerate to 50 - 55 mph it shakes or acts like its having a hard time shifting or its skipping. And it doesn't happen till after I go past 40-55mph range and I've tried it in overdrive and out of it.
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Where is the plug on the transmission to disconnect the TCC solenoid? I am trying to diagnose a lockup issue and need to disable the clutch from engaging for a test run.
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2008 F150 XLT 5.4L
1. Replaced fuse #9 for fuel pump.
2. Checked fuse #9 with check light, power to both sides is good
3. No check engine light
4. Battery is 1.5 years old. Just in case I charged for 1 hr.
5. Replaced fuel filter. Possible clog in fuel line.
6. Detached fuel line at fuel filter, turned key on and fuel came out of line. Seems like fuel pump is working.
7. Every time I can hear the fuel pump prim when I turn the key.
8. Relay#1 starter solenoid, I swapped with relay #2 and also replaced
9. FPDM replacement, I removed and it looked to be good.
10. Light checked all fuses, only fuse #5, fuse#35, and Fuse#36 did not have power. These fuses don't seem to have anything to do with starting or fuel to the engine.
11. Inertia switch check is good
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Looking at a truck at a dealership. 04 F150 Lariat 5.4 3v? 2wd SuperCrew 148k miles. Bone stock besides the bedliner.
Truck is pretty nice besides these 4 things. Kind of a shudder when taking off from a stop or a very slow speed. Adjustable pedals don't work.
New brakes, but possibly the rears are dragging a bit. Was able to turn them in neutral and the rear on jacks. Extra, guessing because of the newer looking battery, some systems lack data from the OBD2
I'm mainly concerned about the shudder from a complete stop/1-2mph. At the dealer, to leave the lot, the driveway was elevated. I think it showed very well climbing that hill. As it was noticed and played with the gas a bit. Otherwise, you stomp the gas, it may shudder for a second or two, (3-5 times?) once it hits about 3000 rpm in 1st, its fine. Only ever seemed to do it in 1st and never any other gear, never on any gear changes.
We lifted the rear end up on a jack and fiddled around. Put it in neutral and spun the wheels, tried to mess with the drive shaft... According to dad, who was looking at it with me said it was fine and that it's normal to have a little bit of slop, but I didn't notice any real slop myself, tried to push on the driveshaft on the transmission side and I think it may have moved a bit but it didn't feel loose or clang or anything. Although I didn't get to push on it too hard because he was rotating the driveshaft at the time.
I assume new fluids in engine and trans. My dad said something about old oil marks on the transmission pan area or something. Both to the fill line.
One thing that I wonder about is how long this truck has been sitting. I wonder about the differential clutches. I'm not that sure what it really has for the rear end. But google had mention of clutch packs in the rear. I wonder if because it's been sitting that the oil has settled out of the clutches or something. There was a mess of silicon on the rear diff cap area. Couldn't tell if it was new or not. I think we put 10-20 miles on it at least and only looked under it for maybe a half hour... Still did the clunk/shudder at a start from a stop, when we returned it.
So, what could be causing this clunk/chatter when talking off from a stop/1-2mph roll?
Axle wrap?
Differential Clutches?
Differential?
Driveshaft?
Transmission?
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