Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Slight Roughness Or Vibration When Driving Straight Or Turning Right
Jan 1, 2014
I have a 2004 F-150 Super Crew Lariat which I bought new and I just turned 300,000 miles. The truck has been very well maintained and is in great shape. It is hands-down the best vehicle I have ever owned and I have owned plenty. I drive mostly highway miles and lately I have notice a slight roughness or vibration when driving straight or turning right. If I turn left of center it drives as smooth as the day I bought it. The dealer can't figure it out, or they don't have the experienced personnel and/or they don't care to figure it out because of the high miles. They checked the power steering pump, which checked out fine and that was as far as it went.
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It feels like I am having a front bearing issue, when turning the steering wheel to the right I feel a slight vibration in the steering, need to know which one is going out,??? I have already replaced the passenger side twice It just seems to not tighten completely as I can still move the tire slightly while up on a jack...
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'05 F150 5.4 Sounds like a whining noise from the front end when turning to the right or going straight. Goes away on left turns. Thought it was tire whine but put originals back on and got same thing. 13.5x35 verses 275 Truck has a Fabtech 6" lift. Right CV axle seems tight, rotor assembly replace 2k miles ago. Any other option before going into front diff?
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i have a 04 f150 2WD I've been noticing a slight vibration on initial takeoff, it only lasts for a couple of seconds then it goes away. I have the "non serviceable drive shaft" the u joints are staked into the yoke. there is some up and down play where the drive shaft goes into the transmission extension housing. Does that play is normal or what may be causing the vibration?
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I posted a while back about my 04 5.4 having an issue at idle. I did all the normal things like replace coil, spark plug, etc etc. No change to the issue. It still acts as though it's misfiring on a cylinder and I get codes P0306 and P0316. Finally took it to ford and had a diagnostic check ran. Everything on the top end was in working order. The tech even put a known working coil on 6 and nothing changed. I was told that it's either an intake or valve issue on that cylinder. But no definite answer to problem.
Fast forward to yesterday. I got a wild hair at lunch and went out and started truck. Pulled injector plug off of 6. No change to the way it was running. I did the same for 5, 7, 8, 1, and 2. All of which made a big difference in the way it ran. It was obviously misfiring with no fuel to cylinder. This gave me the idea to swap 5 and 6 when I got home to see if the issue followed the injector from 6. I did NOT. I pulled the plug on 5 and got the obvious change in the way it ran. So there is definitely something going on at cylinder 6 that I cannot figure out.
PCM, bad intake, bad valve? I'm not rich so a trip to ford for repair is gonna have to wait. Truck seems to run fine when driving except for slight hesitation during acceleration.
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Got some road noise going on always noisy while driving straight or turning to the right. If I take a turn at speed on the highway to the left the noise stops. Sounds normal, once I straighten out the noise returns. So my thoughts are clearly drivers side, but not 100% sure where to start my search. Wheel hub is my first thought, is there anything i can do to check if the hub is good since they are sealed?
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My truck had a slight vibration at idle today and what i noticed the most was i was looking at the top of the motor and i noticed that the fluid in the power steering reservoir was shaking back and forth like i was shaking the container. Is this from the vibration or is the power steering system vibrating. I have had this truck for two weeks and it has 135k on it. It is the 5.4 motor...
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4 cylinder Japan built camry se manual trans ... 158k miles
Steering got stiff/lumpy driving to work today...trying to figure out if it's the rack or the pump.
Pump isn't squealing but makes a tiny bit more noise when turning left or right(when parked)...but I'm not sure its more then normal.
No leaking fluid. Fluid reservoir is filled to the correct level. No torn boots etx.
Steering feels fine driving straight down the road but when turning it's gets stiff and harder, esp going right.
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Had this truck a few years now, and it has always had a slight miss/hesitation and maybe a few codes. The timing chain skipped a tooth and the truck was down for about a year. I have 4 other trucks, so it wasn't a big deal. I finally had time to put a new oil pump, chains, guides, tensioners, phasers etc. The truck actually runs very well and quiet. But, now misses far more than I remember it doing.
When driving in town constant at 25-30 mph occasionally it will loose power for a brief moment(<1 second) and then be fine, the security light on the dash turns on for a few seconds. It drives at 55-65 just fine, unless I am going up a hill or something else increasing the load.
2004 5.4 3v 2wd
CEL-
P0453 (fuel tank pressure issue)
P0351 (ignition coil a primary/secondary circuit malfunction)
P0356 (ignition coil f primary/secondary circuit malfunction)
The coil packs are new, and I have injectors on order. Also found this thing on the back of the motor, it connects to the fuel rail on the drivers side. Where it should go. I looked on my other trucks. But my other 04-4wd has a box by the battery it connects to, but mine doesn't have any of that stuff. And my 08 doesn't have anything like this at all.
And a pix of the truck in question.
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I have a clicking sound coming from the front right wheel, happens while driving straight or turning. My guy checked the cv boots, axle bolt, various other connections that seem fine. Then he takes a phrase out of Satan's handbook and says "take it to the dealer". I saw the horns on his head and the red eyes while he was saying it. So I made apt for next week. I don't think it's anything serious , Orr maybe it's something to do with the rotor, caliper, break pads ? Everything else seems tight.
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2004 Escape 2wd 6 cylinder 170k miles. Intermittent clunk/rattle sound when hitting bumps while going straight and especially turning right. I felt a slight bumping in passenger side floor board. Inspected everything. All looks good and tight- no signs of loose hardware, worn ball joints or tie rods. Only thing I noticed was a slight rub mark (missing paint) on the lower control arm under the sway bar on drivers side. And noticed the rear bushings on the control arms are tearing.
Not collapsing but with the tire removed and suspension hanging at full droop you can see tears in that rear bushing on both sides. We painted the arm and sway bar in the rubbing location to see if it makes a mark there again after driving it a few days. Question is do you think that the rear control arm bushings could be allowing enough movement to contact the sway bar or make the noise? The bolts are tight. Has newer Moog struts and newer swaybar end bushings, possibly sway bar hold down bushings too- (they look pretty good).
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I just replaced the passenger wheel hub assembly (and axle due to complications) and the noise is still there. I have a loud hum that starts at about 30mph, is present when going straight, but gets much louder as the steering wheel is turned to the left. It is completely gone when turning to the right. It gets louder with speed and how much the wheel is turned left. At highway speeds, on a long sweeping left-hand curving connector, the noise is VERY LOUD. There is a slight vibration that occurs, but it's not bad at all. The noise continues when the trans is in neutral. I've even shut off the car while testing this in a parking lot, and the noise continues. The noise varies depending on the height or load of the suspension. It varies as the car rides over dips in the road.
I really though it would end up being the passenger wheel hub, even though there was no noticeable play in either hub. I've had noisy hubs before that had no noticeable play. But after a very obnoxious repair, it's not the hub. All tie rods have no play. All 4 heels were recently aligned. The alignment made no difference in the noise. I replaced a bad tranny mount about a year ago. Motor mounts look good. Ball joints are good. Replaced axles about 3 years ago. Replaced bad struts and strut mounts about a year ago. New control arms due to bad bushings. All these things I've replaced recently were making noises too, but the left-hand hum is always present. This is my last noise and it's driving me crazy. I've always felt it comes more from the driver's side, but my wife disagrees and my hearing isn't great due to too much range time.
Oh, I recently noticed that the steering wheel tends to want to return to center from the right more than it does from the left. Again, alignment was done by a reputable garage just a few months ago. They also found nothing during there safety inspection. I also noticed that the car is not sitting level as it seems that the rear driver-side spring is sagging about 1.5". The noise is not very obvious from outside the car. I know I'm forgetting some other things I've checked for this problem. I'll post more as I think of it.
My current theories are driver's-side hub, something with the steering rack, spring heights, something vibrating (body panel, loose part?), something with the auto-tranny.
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Got my 2007 XLT Screw here, love this truck, not one problem with it since i got it. but i have started to hear and feel a noise.
I have a click sound and slight click feel in my steering wheel. This happens when I am sitting still with the wheel straight, and i just slightly rock the steering wheel back and forth. If i turn the wheel a full turn left or right then rock the steering wheel back and forth I don't get the sound or feeling. Also if I am cruising down the road and rock the wheel back and forth slightly I don't get it.
This is something between the steering wheel and the firewall. I checked all steering shafts and all suspension from the firewall down to the wheels. So that at least make me feel better that I am not dealing with one of those steering shafts or a suspension repair.
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A little about my truck. E99 F-350 crew cab long bed dually 4x4 223K miles. 4.10 gears with LS in rear.
I bought the truck June 2016. I ended up wrecking the truck on the test drive. Thought it was a 4 way stop and pulled out in front of a lady and she ran into the passenger side tire. Only damage that was on the truck was a busted tire, and the fender smashed in. Some how missed the door and the bumper.
I replaced all the front end: u-joints, ball joints, steering linkage, brakes, rotors, calipers, and all the u-joints in both of the drive shafts, also changed the fluid in both axles.
I have started to notice a slight "vibration" "shimmy" while driving down the road. Mainly while in a curve or changing lanes; applying pressure to the steering wheel one or the other. Tires have been balanced, and rotated several different times now with no luck at all.
While backing up, I can feel something "popping" "clunking" especially while turning. Like backing out of a parking space.
Insert troubleshooting:
Jack truck up and put on jack stands.
- Pull and shake all tires. --No movement
- Put in drive and watch all the rear end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Put truck in 4wd, hard to engage, watch front end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Turn tires to full lock. --Drive line starts clanking and shaking and rear tires acting funny.
- Turn tires straight. --Problem goes away.
- Put truck back in 2wd. --No problems when turning wheel lock to lock.
- Drive to empty parking lot. --Mainly feel problem while backing up, really have to feel for it. Most people call me insane.
- Lock the front axle. --No difference.
- Put in 4wd. Drive straight --No difference.
- In 4wd while turning. --Truck wants to act like it is fully locked in the rear and will bind up and slip a tire. You really have to give it some fuel to make it even try to move, and its almost like the truck wants to fold in half on itself. Cant keep the steering wheel in one spot as it keeps "jumping" on me.
- Put in 2wd. --Acts the same way until the truck fully comes out of 4wd then smooths back out to where you have to really feel for it. 4wd light stays on forever, before going off later in life.
- Put in 4low. --Gears grind and will not engage.
Would this indicate that the transfer case is messing up on me? Why would the rear axle feel like it is locked when in 4wd?
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Runs into a problem with steering wheel not wanting to return back to straight after a turn...spray wd40 on u joints on steering shaft ( under hood)....
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My car has a distinct pull to the left when driving on a flat straight road. If I let go of the steering wheel the wheel actually turns about 5 degrees left of centre and the car goes in that direction.
Had an alignment from lexus edinburgh last year and again from another garage yesterday,
Still pulls and I have to physically hold the steering wheel centre when driving.
Car is 2011 IS F UK
Attached is my alignment spec from yesterday, Is it the caster issue as this can't be adjusted? If it is what's required?
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I've noticed that when I am driving my car in the morning there is a slight vibration in the car, it feels like the rear, but it could be the whole car. After I drive it for a while this vibration goes away. The vibration never comes back again until the next morning, even when the car sits at work for 8 hours the vibration doesn't appear.
It's not a violent vibration, it's very subtle but it is noticeable. I'm thinking that most likely it is my struts and shocks, I know that they probably need to be replaced soon (with our shocks being crap).
I don't think my wheels are out of alignment as the car doesn't pull to any side at all and my brakes are also good and not sticking. The car has 86K on it. What is going on and if I should be more concerned than I am or is it just worn shocks and or struts?
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I have a 2008 focus and at about 15000 miles started having a slight vibration at idle. Its idling at about 700rpm is that normal? It more annoying than anything. Took it to Ford and they just say its normal. What the problem could be? Should I replace the plugs?
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I just bought a 2008 Elantra SE with 26K miles. So far, I've really enjoyed it, except for, at times, it does vibrate somewhat during idle.
I took it to the nearest Hyundai dealer, and they clipped the throttle cables to the inside of the firewall. This did make some improvement, but I still feel vibration during idle when the engine is warm (doesn't seem to as long as RPMs are up). It's almost as if the idle is set a little too low.
Maybe this is just normal vibration? It's not too bad, just noticeable. Can idle in these cars be adjusted? It seems the car is too new to have clogged fuel injectors. Everything else about driving it feels great, acceleration, etc. Do you think using a higher octane gas would work?
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The front wheels on my 04 accent has a slight vibration ( it's so slight that you don't notice it ) when driving at any speed . if I let go of the steering wheel , it wobbles back and forth . I also sometimes get a vibration on the steering wheel at high speeds when braking which feels like a rumble on a game controller .
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So, fresh off the new brake actuator pump and new hybrid battery and a nice four hour drive yesterday and today i went over a small bump and started to get a loud clunk/rattle coming from the driver's side front wheel area.
It got worse as I drove home and even rattles going straight on a fairly flat road when i hit only minor imperfections. It sounds like something is loose. I cannot reproduce any noise bouncing the car or rocking it side to side.
Prior to this I would get a squeak/groan from the driver's side when I would go over speed bumps and similar large dips or rises, but that has been curiously quiet for awhile.
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