Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Shaking Violently When Accelerate
Nov 24, 2015
Have a 2004 Fx4. Lately its been shaking violently when i accelerate. When I turn the overdrive off it stops.
View 9 RepliesHave a 2004 Fx4. Lately its been shaking violently when i accelerate. When I turn the overdrive off it stops.
View 9 RepliesI just bought a used '05 F-150 and recently I noticed more a shaking I guess you'd call it. When I start from 0 to 80 nothing seems wrong, but when I slow down to coasting like 40 - 45mph and accelerate to 50 - 55 mph it shakes or acts like its having a hard time shifting or its skipping. And it doesn't happen till after I go past 40-55mph range and I've tried it in overdrive and out of it.
View 3 Replies2008 f250 standard cab long bed 2wd base model 5.4. This thing has been great for the last few years i i owned it but it developed a shake since i got new tires. My mechanic mounted 4 new Hercules Terra trac at 2's on my 18 inch wheels (275 70 18) and when i got the truck back it was shaking violently at anything over 45. Mechanic says the new tires are heavy and its affecting other things...sounds plausible. So here i am a month later with a New steering stabilizer, all new ball joints, new shocks, new u joints, and 1 new tire (he said 1 of the brand new Hercules had a broken chord). The shake is 80% gone but this truck is still not the same. Anything after 65mph and it has a feint wobbly bouncy shake. I don't think its the dreaded hop that everyone gets on these. I have 2 theories:
1. These cheap tires just suck and will never be right
2. The cheap junk Monroe shocks he put on are way too soft to do anything
so what do i do? Should i get some crazy shocks or will that make this truck even bouncier? Im worried about making it even stiffer than it already is.
My 07 prius with 190k started shaking violently when going down hill if I press the gas or brake at all is goes a way suddenly, this happens only around the high 40's to low 50 mph range and once at 75, this happened just after my tires where balanced and rotated brought it back they re balanced them and said they balanced out perfectly and the problem still protested. I drive on dirt roads all the time and i hit a big pot hole earlier last spring but the issue just started after the balance a week ago.
View 13 RepliesMy 02 f250 started shaking violently until when I accelerated and the mechanic said it was the wiring harness in the computer. He said it was caused because of over revving I think it was just because the harness was old. Is it because of over revving? Will it happen again?
View 7 RepliesRecently I notice, when I'm going 60+ and then I need to slowdown, my steering wheel starts violently shacking. Plus I have watch with metal band and it it's making even more noise when it's starts to shake. Sometimes it's not that much to slowdown, but that shaking is too much. It's not ABS, because when ABS working you feel it in brake pedal, here is in steering wheel.
Also, I would like to mention the fact that I need to change my brakes! Now I don't know if its because of my brakes or some other problem.
Not that I need it, but this though keeps popping up every now and then. My speedometer shows 160, but I can go only 125! I was told that its some kind of chip that prevents to go higher. Is there a way to take that limit off? This question is purely for my curiosity.
I have a 1983 chevy k-10 with a 350 and a th-350 trans. Every now and then it will start violently shaking as I'm going down the road. Almost feels like it's trying to engage into 4WD. But if I pull over and stop it will quit and i can resume driving. It was like every couple of months and only when i hit a large bump but now it's becoming more and more frequent to where i can't drive it. I've replaced the u-joints on the drive shafts, the manual lockout hubs, wheel bearing etc. I had decided it had to be the transfer case but my gut keeps saying it's the ball joints even though they feel good when you check them. I want my truck back.
View 7 RepliesMy 2007 3.3 Sonata has begun acting up at a cold start up. The motor shakes violently and I have to cut it off and try again. It normally smooths out. This has happened intermittently two or three times in the past three years but happened twice today.
I am out of town at the moment and my wife has the car. She is worried about driving. I am thinking it is some type of sensor etc. If I knew what it was I could have her take it in and I could monitor the repair process.
I got in, stepped on the brake pedal and press the power button. Then the Prius ICE started, it started clanging and violently shaking the entire car. The clanging was sounded like metal on metal or something, it was loud and it was like the engine was seizing up. I stepped outside and the whole front end was buckling up and down. From my perspective, it seemed like the car wanted to lurch forward if I didn't have the parking brake engaged. I had Park engaged and also the parking brake on. I thought it would go away but it persisted. I turned off the car and immediately restarted. When the ICE started the 2nd time it felt a bit rough but finally the clanging noise went away. I didn't have time to look on my scanguage for any codes during the event. Did this cause any permanent damage?
View 18 RepliesYears and years ago, I had an issue with my trusty '02. The steering wheel would shake VIOLENTLY back and forth. I went round and round with Toyota, but at the end of all the angry phone calls and emails the issue never got fixed, but they paid for an after market steering rack. I wasn't about to pay the 4-5K to get the issue fixed, so I just pulled the PS relay, and have been driving merrily along with no power steering for about 90K miles. I'm now at about 195K.
About a month ago, I noticed some symptoms.
1) some play in the steering.
2) when I went over some bumps, I could really feel the bounce, and it felt like metal bumping into metal.
3) when I punched the accelerator, there was a delay and a "thunk" feeling.
I was coming up on a major servicing, so I took it in to the dealership. They sorted out a few things that I knew were overdue (wheel bearings, battery coolant, transaxle lube), and came to the decision that the steering problem was that I needed a new rack. I told the gobsmacked mechanic that I just happened to have one, and they put it in, and they recalibrated the steering sensor paddles so that I would again have power steering. When I started the car up in the dealership lot, VIOLENT SHAKING. They took it back in, and declared that was because my ignition battery was marginal (which it was), and that a new battery would sort this out. I thus spent far too much money on a new battery. Two days later, wheel starts shaking, and again I pull the relay. All is normal again.
The questions are these:
1) Can that kind of shaking be repaired?
2) Could it really have been a battery issue? (the battery reads a nice even 12.6 and has a wonderful warranty)
3) Was my issue just tie rods the whole time?
In the meantime, I'm going to get 238K (distance from earth to moon) if it kills us all.
We bought yesterday a 2004 Prius with 73K miles. This was (unfortunately) a private sale. When my husband drove back home with the car, the VCS, ABS and ((!)) yellow came on when he reached 60mph and above. He also noticed a lot of noise when accelerating and the car was shaking. The noise is also there at low speed and when accelerating it is so bad and feels like something is rubbing?
This morning, we decided to try the tire pressure to see if this could be the issue. After correcting tire pressure (it was actually very bad), the lights went off and we decided to try it on the motorway. The car was noisy to start off but as soon as we hit the motorway, the sound was getting worse and worse. I could feel my passenger seat shaking under me and the 3 lights (VCS, ABS and ((!))) came back on and stayed on until we got home.
What was the issue in the end? We have spent all our savings in this car and can't really afford expensive repairs few days after buying it. We are just gutted. Oh and we have a 2011 Auris Hybrid with 15K that runs superb. My dad owns a Prius too and so I can tell the noise is just not normal- at the same time, perhaps a 10 yo Prius is supposed to do this noise?
I have a 2010 Sonata V6 that I bought new. It has a little less than 50K on it. I tried to start it today and it made a terrible noise then died seconds later. I popped the hood and then started it again and the engine was shaking violently in the engine compartment and making a terrible knocking noise. I had driven it 12 hours earlier and it ran fine. I called a tow truck and had it taken to the dealer but if I know my dealer, since it is Sunday they probably wont get to it until Tuesday. Also, this car has had the signature V6 valve cover leak that has been fixed 3 times. I noticed it was leaking again about a month ago and I have just been checking the oil and adding it as it needs it. I dont think the engine ran out of oil because I checked it before the tow truck came and it was between low and full.
View 2 Replies2007 Ford F150
XLT 5.4L Supercab
55,500 miles
Only Owner
I have owned my truck since mile 1 and have not had any issues up to this point. That being said in 2011 there have been 5 occassions where I have been on interstate driving between 55-70 and had to pull over due to my truck shaking. This shaking is very extreme and truly scares me, thus the reason I pull over. I replaced my tires with Michelin 70,000 mile tires and also replace my front brakes just over a year ago.
After not being able to reproduce the shake for my mechanic, they said my upper front ball joint needed replaced and my rear shocks. They hooked the truck up to the computer and did not receive any codes and my check engine light has not come on to this point.
The research I have conducted to this point has pointed to a number of issues and I had my mechanic check all of them and they said nothing was out of the ordinary, these were: e-brake issues, front brakes, calipers, plugs/coils.
I was driving my f150 going down the highway. Cruise set at 110kmh. All of a sudden truck started shaking And sounded horrible. Shut off the cruise. Floored it.it misses fired like no tomorrow and no power, looked down check engine light was flashing. Then all of a sudden everything normal. Now its intermediate and light solid on. So I thought I will just I will hook up the code reader. And NOTHING it didn't turn On. No beep nothing. Tried 2 readers no connection. Trucks a 2005 ford f150 fx4 5.4 217600km on the clock
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 an at about 52mph the truck has a slight but irritating bounce (up an down) an after a while sickening. It maybe felt it was coming from the rear. So I had the rear tires balanced an the guy said my right rear tire had a bend to it. Well assuming that the balancing fixed the problem it did not. So I'm going to put on the spare to see if it still bounces what else should I do?
View 14 RepliesI've done some research on the shaking that is occurring on my truck an it's a possibility that it's the e brake seizing up. I've read where everyone has taken it to the dealer to get it fixed ....
View 7 RepliesIt seems like I am going thru brakes I just replaced my brakes in May and my Rotors in July and when I brake my truck shakes like crazy. Is it the brakes again or am I missing something.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2006 F-150, V6, automatic transmission, a little over 214,000 miles. When I started it up this morning, no issues, but when I dropped it into reverse, it started shaking pretty bad. Got on the road and put it in drive, and the shaking continued, then the check engine light started flashing. Haven't had any problems up to this point. Checked all the fluids including the transmission fluid a few weeks ago and all was well.
View 4 RepliesI have an '05 5.4L 3V and I was way to trusting in how it was running. BTW, I change the oil every 3 to 5 and have only driven highway miles, albeit a lot of them...155k! I bought it with 40k on it but was not aware of the plug change issue until I heard about it off-hand. I let the plug change go cuz it was running so well. Bad move.
Anyways, a few weeks ago it began to lose power and I suspected that the PCM was retarding the timing for some reason. Before I could get to the shop, the thing went nuts on me at 75mph. Started shaking and sputtering and throwing cel codes. I shut it down and after 5 minutes re-started. It seemed fine and actually was running a bit better. Took it in and the code was the 0302. #2 cyl misfire.
They also said the compression was very low on that cylinder and slightly low on 1,3 and 7 as well. I had them change the plugs and the #2 COP even though they said I needed a new engine and then I picked it up. Now the engine barely runs at all. It shakes violently, where to go from here. What should I do now? New engine?
I have a 2004 F-150 5.4L V8 3v vin code 5. I'm a heavy equipment mechanic and know my way around engines. The longer I own this truck the worse the problem gets. I believe I've narrowed it down to the oil actuated timing chain tensioners. I get a really bad rattle with a shaking condition only after changing my oil. Other then that it runs perfectly. I'm guessing it's losing its prime and trying to build up oil pressure. Is there any way to hand prime those tensioners? Or should I just go ahead and replace the whole assembly?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 F150 5.4 3v rattling and shaking excessively. I have installed two new cam phasers, two vct solinoids, two vct housings, flushed oil and installed motor craft oil and filter. This never happens if bank two vct is unplugged or in open loop. Monitioring vct's on ids only bank two is erratic. Also when I had vct housing off I blew regulated air through oil passage seems free.
View 7 Replies