Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Screeching Sound From Front Hub / Battery Died While Driving
Nov 9, 2011
Driving to work my trucks radio turned off.. My abs light came on.. A screeching sound from front hubs.. Then I stopped abs light went off hubs locked.. Air bag light came on.. I hit the power button on radio it displayed low battery.. All interior options were off. Outside lights dim .. When I got to work I shut it off and tried to restart... Acted like battery was dead.. It's a 3 week old battery. I also noticed , it seemed like I could not turn off my head lights.. Switch did not seem to make any difference with lights. After being off for a mon. The lights got a little brighter. Is it just the alternator? I got no low battery or dummy light. It did have a mildly sluggish start.
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I have an F-150 Heritage 4.2L V6 Manual 4X4 and over the last few weeks have notice a couple of odd things. First I noted an odd screeching sound, similar to a rock caught in the break drum, but it seemed to be coming from under the cab/bed, not a tire. It only seemed to show up under relatively heavy throttle, which I thought was odd. I went through a car wash with a good under carriage spray, and the sound went away.
A few days later it snowed and the sound returned. I don't know that it's actually related...but that's how the weather went... Now, when I let off the throttle and the engine holds the truck back there is a "thump", and when I reapply the throttle, it thumps again. If I press the clutch in first, then release the throttle there is no thump; so I assume this is something with the drive shaft.
I climbed underneath and found that I do have some play in the shaft, I can twist it a tiny bit so I know that I have play in the shaft which (and I am NO mechanic) I assume is not normal. I can see the shaft turning all the way to where it goes into the back of the transmission so I assume the play is coming from the rear yoke?
I thought I could replace the yoke relatively cheaply but I keep stumbling across posts indicating that with this particular set up, I actually have to replace the whole drive shaft. What I could be looking at, and what my options are?
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My 2008 F-150 recently started making a funny noise from what seems like the front right wheel.
The weird thing is that it will only make the noise while accelerating. The second i take my foot off the it stops. Also, the sound stops if i put it into 4WD and does not happen at all in 4WD.
It has nothing to do with turning or breaking. It only makes the sound in 2WD while my foot is on the gas.
The sound is kind of weird. It sounds like something is loose, and it sounds similar to tin vibrating on metal.
At first i thought it may have been heat shielding rubbing on something, I checked under the truck and found nothing loose.
It's weird that it only happen in 2wd yet in the front end.
Someone had mentioned that it may have something to do with the fact that there is no torque on the front wheels in 2wd and when i put it into 4wd it put torque on it, whatever might be loose then becomes tight.
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I was driving down the freeway, headed up a hill and my truck started slowing down, rapidly, it eventually died. I put it in neutral and started it up, went about 1' and it died again. It did this several times. I was almost to the top of a hill and was hoping I could coast down, but didn't make it. It ended up dying completely.
I would turn the key to start it, and it would keep trying to turn over (even when i let go of the key. it was weird). Then after a few times of that, the battery just died.
I also noticed a smell. Like something burning. I noticed it off and on for the last week and asked a friend to check it out but he was like "oh its nothing".
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I own a 2008 Prius with 87k on it. The factory hybrid warranty was good through 11/15 and on 1/22/16 the dash lit up along with the MFD screen. After research I thought it was an inverter pump. I got the call from Toyota that it was throwing a P80 code meaning it is the hybrid battery. The dealership told me that it would run 3200.00 for a new replacement. I called the service manager and had him send in a goodwill exception since we service our 7 other toyotas with them.
Toyota corporate responded they would cover the battery under goodwill but I would have to pay the labor cost of 450.00. I spoke to the service manger and the dealership is covering half of that which I'm only liable for 225.00. I'm not out 3200.00 but after doing more research the typical battery last 60-80k. Some are luckier to get over 150k. For those Prius owners approaching those miles beware that you might need a battery replacement. This will be the last hybrid I will ever own.
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I have had my '08 Prius for 3 years and have little to no problems with it. This morning I jumped in to go to work and the entire dash lit up and then faded out and died. The only lights still on is the check engine light, Airbag light and the little green light on the Park button. The worst part is now I can not completely shut it down. I am wondering if it is just a dead battery or if this is something bigger. If it is a dead battery I am baffled at how it could be. I have AAA coming to jump it and I hope that is all it is. Sound familiar?
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TBC fault has been showing on my 2006 Ford F-250 for a couple of years dealer said it wasn't an issue--- check engine light has been on for months, then lost speedometer back in November. Intermittently radio and fuel gauge shut off while driving--- stared needing a boost in really cold weather for the last month.
Driving today my battery just died while driving and I had the truck towed to mechanic--- they put new battery in and ran electrical diagnostics. Saying that it might be timing chain/cam shaft OR electrical components for computer system... I'm lost and so are they and don't want to spend thousands while they diagnose the source.....
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I have recently done some work on my car. I had a clunking noise and needed new rotors, warped. I found out I had a broken coil spring, left front, which I have discovered is fairly common for this car, this was the clunking noise.. About 100k on it. I put on new brake pads, ceramic, and rotors and when I drove the car there was a horrible screeching sound from the left front wheel. Not a sound from the right front. I drove it the first day thinking they would quiet down. They did not.
I took pads off and placed lubricant on the back sides of them, reassembled and drove, no change, still as loud as before. I took all of the brake stuff off and turned the axle and the noise was still there. I changed the wheel bearing thinking that this could be the only thing that would make such a noise. No change with the new wheel bearing! Same noise just as before! I didn't think that this noise could be a half shaft as I thought they mostly made a grinding noise. This is definitely a scraping metal sound, pulses with wheel revolution. I am at a loss as what could be causing this noise.
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I am 98% sure my 17" chrome clad wheels are making a clicking or ticking sound as I drive. I took off the plastic center cap and the noise changed.. it's less than constant now.
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I have a 2005 F150, 5.4L. What I have is a "muffled" sound (for the lack of better terms) from the engine when driving. Also it seems to be "starved" or lacking some power.
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Everything might be a slight exaggeration. But fuse 14 covers Backup lamp and day time running lights relay coil, A/C Pressure Switch, Redundant Speed Control, Heated PCV (5.4L), Trailer Tow back-up lamps, ABS, Reverse park aid, EC Mirror.
This is a 2006. 4.6L V8, SCREW. I don't have reverse park aid. When the fuse blows there is a loud screeching noise from under the hood. Can't identify it because the fuse wont go while I am sitting idling in the driveway. The parking break i9ndicator comes on, the ABS indicator comes on, Cruise control goes away and the A/C quits cooling but still blows. I assume EC Mirror means Electronic Compass Mirror. So I need to figure out where the short is.
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I have a 2005 F 150 5.4L and i just changed the front rotors, pads, and calipers. Because the passengers side caliper had locked and the rims was really hot and i knew it was the caliper so i changed both the driver and passenger side calipers and hoses. A month before this i had changed the pad and rotors but after the caliper locked it put grooves in the rotor and damaged the pad but the pads and rotors i bought have a lifetime warranty so i got a brand new set and changed them while replacing the calipers.
After installing everything i bleed the front brakes. But did not bleed the rear and i am wondering since i did not do the rear even though i did not touch them it is causing the front to make a ticking sound the whole time i am driving and it is starting to annoy me even though it has only been 4 days since i did the front brake job. I put Duralast rotors and Duralast Gold Cmax Premium Ceramics Pads. What is causing this ticking.
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I recently installed a 2" aluminum HBS leveling kit on my F150. ('04 FX4 SCrew, 5.4, 61K miles). I was excited to finally improve the truck rather than fix something. The install was straightforward and I didnt have any issues (other than Cleveland, OH rust).
After installing the kit I noticed a whirring noise coming from the front end while driving, but I didnt think much of it and I got an alignment a couple of days later. Immediately after the alignment, the problem is still there. It sounds just like aggressive mud tires driving down the road, so I think it is coming from the tires.
The noise follows the speed of the truck (the pitch gets lower as you slow down) but you cant really start to hear it until you slow down below 45 mph. It is much more noticeable at lower speeds (probably because of the lower wind noise in the cab). I dont think it would be a CV joint/axle issue, but who knows. I am considering taking it back to have the alignment checked, but I figured I would check on here before I do.
I just bought this truck last fall, and it is one step away from being traded in because of the countless nuances this thing has (wet floors and consequently rust everywhere on the inside of the cab, rattling window trim, shaking bed, squeaky rear window, noisy phasors).
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I have a clicking sound on the driver side front tire. It only makes the noise when I am in motion and have the wheel turned. It does it reverse and forward. The CV axle is not turning, and it does it with 4x4 engaged and the cv axle turning. I had the front end apart not to long ago replacing the IWE Integrated wheel hub, and the bearing isn't to terrible old, and its a timken.
It didn't wobble when the wheel was up in the air, and seemed solid. All the other front end pieces have also been replaced. I also hear a rubbing noise when I am driving on that side. For awhile before I replaced my IWE Hub I thought it was the cv axle just turning ( I had the lined unplugged so it was engaged to prevent damage), well after fixing the IWE Hub it still makes the sound and the cv axle is not turning as it was before.
Wondering if the bearing is maybe on its way out? One thing I did notice is tie rod end I just replaced along with all my new front end parts (upper control arms, and lower ball joints) the boot is severed completely all the way around. However the tie rod appeared to be in good shape, just the boot has been cut or split some how. Which I plan to fix, but I don't see how that would cause a clicking sound. I have inspected to make sure no lines or vac hoses are rubbing, and they are not.
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About 3 months ago I started having a grinding sound from the front driver side hub area. I replaced it and it fixed the problem. I read where you should do both because he other one is soon behind it but I waited. Now I started hearing it from the passenger side too. So I replaced it today and all was good until I tested it from 4 wheel back to 2 wheel. Once I went back to 2 wheel the clicking that sounds like bearings going out to me, was back. What is it?
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2006 GS300 ... Car died while driving at about 25 mph - Car was in Drive (D) when died and wife put into park (P) after she coasted into parking lot. To load onto flatbed had to use manual shift lock release to get to neutral. Battery was completely dead--Optima Red Top.
Changed battery and dash lights came on a system Navigation unit showed system loading and not to turn off power - it loaded and when I tried to start the car it would not start. Put car into neutral to eliminate the Park sensor issue and still would not start. ALL lights and systems are very bright as they should be and I hear a faint hum which almost sounds like a fuel pump staying on but in the engine compartment/dash area---very faint hum.
Tried disconnecting battery a few times and to allow ECU to reset and still would not reset. Prior to this the car was having the VSC issue with the transmission not shifting past 3rd - I know the solenoid packs are probably bad but not sure this would affect the engine start up.
Tried both remotes to make sure it saw key. It acts almost like it is not seeing a safe to start (not in Park) or neutral....
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I have a 2004 F150, 5.4L V8. A few years back I was in an accident when someone slammed into the front of my truck. The right front wheel & tire took the brunt of the accident. I thought the repair shop had everything back to normal until recently I occasionally have a grinding sound coming from the right front side, seems to be related to the axle. It doesn't do it all the time just at random while I'm driving. The only solution I can find is to pull over or slow my speed to a crawl. Once I slow down enough or turn my wheel one way or the other its like something SLAMS back into place. I had it looked at by a local mechanic and they couldn't find anything wrong. Could it be something in my right front axle?
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My radiator fan didn't turn off tonight. Used to Audi's I didn't think much of it as they often run after car is off. Battery died later tonight. The fan will not turn off.
I tried pulling the fuses listed for the fan and it didn't turn off after I got home and would not drive the car anymore. Car sat for 3 hours when the battery died, so it was not a heat issue.I had to disconnect the battery to stop the fan and enable me to start the car again. How do I stop the fan with a fuse/relay so I can use the car until I get to the dealer? 2008 6MT
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My 05 Supercrew 4X4 with 172k miles started making a horrible noise these last couple days. It sounds like its coming from the front passenger side area. The best I can describe is that it sounds like an electric tool motor with bad bearings. I'll be driving along at 45mph or above and every now and then I'll hear a really bad bearing squeal. It's bad enough that I can feel the extra friction caused by the squeal start to slow my truck down. It's vehicle speed related. I know what a bad wheel bearing sounds like and this is nothing like that. It's gotten bad enough I'm nervous to drive anywhere.
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MY '07 SuperCab just started making a strange rhythmic sound as I drive. It is coming from the drivers side front wheel area. It is like a short creaking sound. It stays the same if I am turning the tires. Seems to go away if I put the brakes on hard, but I slow down so much I am not sure. Front CV Joint?
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Last night my battery died. We tried charging the battery today and it was didn't work, so I grabbed the battery out of my IS300 and put it in the F. The car still won't start, I don't even hear the starter cranking. Not sure what's going on.
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