Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Runs Rough And Idles Poorly Only When Cold
Jan 30, 2013
I recently replaced the plugs cuz I had a rough idle all the time. During plug change when I discovered they had already been changed I found one that had a burned off electrode. Does this mean a lean condition exists?
After plug change it runs smoothly but only after 10 min warmup in our canadian winters. I can drive it when its not warm but seems to have less than full power and idles very badly after driving w/o proper warmup.
Next I changed fuel filter and checked fpdm, it was a little rusty but not bad so i just mounted it 1/4 off steel to prevent further rusting.
Since then I have installed a programmer [diablosport] but found no codes since i had battery disconnected for filter change. no new codes in last few weeks since.
So do I have a lean running cylinder causing this poor cold idle or a rich cylinder? It must be a clogged or dripping fuel injector right?
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I have a huge problem. My 94 ranger 2.3L 5 speed manual transmission, has problems with idoling while it's cold, has no power going uphill and stalls when I slow down to stop. This is all after putting a new motor in. The old one was running ok with 310,000 but lagging bad. I figured with the driving I do, a new motor wouldn't be a bad thing. Boy, was I wrong. It has been a nightmare. But once the truck is up to operating temperature, it runs so smooth you wouldn't think there was a problem. But let it cool off, restart, and boom! There it is. We have changed so many parts and sensors with absolutely no change to the original problem. It's very frustrating. I just can't let this problem win. I will figure it out.
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The car idles rough on cold mornings but runs fine. It will stall while idling but starts back easily. I am getting a 1131 and a 1151 code with my scanner along with 0300 and lean bank 1 codes. I started having these problems after I had to remove the upper intake to replace coil packs. I was getting egr code and had an egr port completely block off but cleaned that out and no longer get the egr codes. Spraying carb cleaner around the engine I get a very slight bump in rpm around a couple of the intake ports could that be my problem or should I look deeper?
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2006 F450 6.0 that I've owned since new. It has had 2 injectors replaced previously, EGR cooler with BPD, and a few other problem parts. As it is getting older, I have recently noticed it runs like absolute dog crap when it is cold. It can't even reasonably accelerate onto the hwy when cold. Once it is up to operating temp, it runs better. It still does not pull like it did when it was new and under 50k miles...but it is at least driveable once warm. I need to do some heavy trailer towing soon and need to get this thing back to accelerating good. What should I be looking at first for the horrible running condition when cold?
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I have a 2004 F-150 crewcab, 4.6L with 118,000. I don't drive the truck often but for the past few months its stalls and cuts off, and idles poorly in reverse. Truck cutting off at low RPM's, low speeds, and after going over some bumps. At one point the engine light came on but now it is off and I am still having the issues. . . . not sure what code it would display. I have been reading articles and blogs and most say the TPS, MAF, or IAC is the problem.
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I am the original owner of a 2006 Prius with 98,000 miles on it. Three summers ago it developed a problem where on very hot days (well above 90 degrees) when first started it runs very poorly. It starts normally and has no trouble light come on. It does this even though the car may have sat in the sun for hours and the engine/cooling system is relatively cool. But for the first 5-10 minutes it hesitates and stumbles with acceleration (as if it had bad gas). In fact at first I thought it was a bad gas problem. It never actually stalls.
It does this with or without the air conditioning on. It runs fine the remainder of the year and runs OK when first started if parked in a garage or a shady area on a very hot day. I have replaced the spark plugs, air filter, oil & filter numerous times, & changed the transmission fluid-but still this problem persists summer after summer. The traction battery fan is always on from initially starting the car every time this problem occurs. Could this be a battery problem? And if not, what then?
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Before and after this speed it runs fine, so what could it be. The check engine light is now on all the time.
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So I have a 95 aerostar 3.0. I use it every day my a delivery vehicle. I keep it maintained. About a month that ago, it developed a skip or a hesitation, most!y at high speeds, usually under load. I thought it may be transmission but had it checked and was ok. I drove it like that for several weeks. Then got worse so I parked it for ten days until my mechanic was available. When I cranked it to drive it over, it spit and sputtered the whole way here and barely made it. It had never done that before. He changed plugs and wires and distributor cap, even though it had been less than a year since all that had been done. Still no change. Driving way worse after sitting for ten days.
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I have an 07 f150 v8 5.4 and it idles very rough. When i start it it seems to start really rough and just about everytime im stopped its shaking just enough to annoy me. Do you think its the spark plugs? I took into the dealer about a month ago and they said everything was fine. But its still doing the same thing. Also the A/C tottaly sucks is that they way it is? When I accelerate the cold air gets kinda warm and it doesn't get cold until i get up to speed.
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I have a 2007 Ford F-150 5.4l v8...
Codes
P0012 int cam position timing over ret bank 1
P0022 int cam position timing over ret bank 2
P0300 random Missfire detected
P0316 engine misfire detected on start up
P0340 cam position sensor curcuit fault
P0345 cmp sensor a circuit problem bank 2
Starts rough, idles rough and stalls occur often when start, after it runs for 5 minutes and sometimes dint starts at all. I replaced spark plugs, coils, cam shaft sensors and had oil changes done and. No effect.
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I have a 1999 Ford Escort SE wagon with 112k miles on it. Last week when leaving work my car started very rough. This was unusual so I killed and restarted the car about three times before letting it run it's course (~30 seconds), after which the car ran fine. About a week later on my way to work the car seemed to 'sputter' (for lack of a better word) when I pushed down on the petal looking for some power on two separate occasions. On each side of the sputters the car seemed to respond fine, but when it did sputter there was a severe lack of power. I got to and from work just fine, but while letting the car idle in the parking spot of my apartment for a minute before shutting off the engine the check engine light finally came on. The following morning the car again started rough (as if it were misfiring/running on 3 of 4 cylinders) and this time it took a good minute before smoothing out. However, after the car smoothed out I experienced no issues on the way to work, no sputtering, no loss of power, nothing. Doing some initial online research I feel that the problem may be one (or more) of the following:
-Fuel pump
-Vacuum lines
-O2 Sensor
-Spark plugs (they are original)
-Fuel Filter (it is actually past due for replacement)
I plan on getting this checked out ASAP, but that still may be 2ish weeks away with my schedule. Some similar reports say that I may be having a 'lean mixture' issue (not getting enough fuel), but I haven't had the time to check the code. My question is, how "safe" is it to continue driving my car with the current situation? Is it at a super high risk of failure/random stalling during rush hour? Will it cause any damage to the engine if there is a cylinder misfire upon start up? I was also wondering if the car would be reasonably reliable to drive on a ~400 mile road trip on an upcoming weekend, but I am making plans as if it is not.
Additional Details:-Tried charging the fuel lines (car to 'ON' then 'OFF' position 3-4 times), had no effect on the morning start-up-Commute to/from work is about 20 miles
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2008 f150 5.4 30,000 miles the engine has top end noise on the right side and runs very rough no codes cam problem ?
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I am trying to solve a mystery on my mom's truck. It's an '06 4.2L F-150 STX with about 133k miles. It had a check engine light on until today- I cleaned the TB and changed air filter yesterday, and both were filthy. Code vanished later on while driving.
I want to check the PCV because the truck idles high and rough in any setting from park to OD, stopped or moving. Worse when stopped though. Entire coil pack has already been changed due to previous misfire problems. This feels similar to a misfire but without the acceleration hesitation. It has also had a recent oil change, and fuel/oil filter change as well.
There is only one hose connecting to the intake on this truck, and it appears to be a vapor line of some sort to the valve cover, but isn't a PCV cause it's just a hollow tube. There is nothing else coming out of the TB at all, except for the throttle control cable. I don't even seen any nipples or connections or holes where a PCV hose or valve should go. I thought it was on the passenger side, under the TB... but there is nothing here at all. I'm stumped.
I am beginning to think the truck just does not have one at all, which I know for a fact is impossible. I have traced every line on this motor from top to bottom, and I do not see it. Should have a heater on it I assume? What else can make the truck so rough? I don't buy it that "it's just that way". That is complete, lazy, BS. I have had/driven many trucks; 4x4s, supercrew, diesels, jeeps, dump trucks... I have NEVER had a truck run as badly and roughly as this one does. Heck, a twin-turbo 700HP diesel doesn't run this roughly.
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Have a 2001 Civic DX, Manual Transmission, 228K miles. 1.7L SOHC.
Recently changed front motor mount and timing belt on the same day.
I noticed the car running rough and is only rough at certain RPM. Here are the rpm ranges it runs rough, 700rpm which is idle, 2200-2400rpm and 3400rpm approximately. It idles at 700rpm which I believe is the idle rpm on my car, so thinking my timing is not off. One more thing I noticed is if I have AC on and reving down in rpm it sounds like it is about to shutoff (never shuts off) and get a stronger vibration and same thing when I turn the AC on at idle. With ac on my rpm are 720rpm give and take a few. I been driving with above symptom for 300mi+ so far, even got it upto 95mph, don't know if it is an indication of anything. Got new spark plugs installed at 220K miles.
Could it be the motor mount or my harmonic balancer is out of balance. I did have to use 3/4" impact wrench to knock the harmonic balancer bolt loose. It is a little rusty given I got 228K miles on it.
I am just dreading the thought of my timing being off by a tooth, me and my friend checked the timing marks per oem manual, he checked the cam shaft pulley marks and I did the crankshaft. When we installed the timing belt I only turned the engine counter clockwise so I would not cause a problem with timing belt slack. My AC belt may be a little too tight as well.
The motor mount I put in was an aftermarket one that I bought from amazon. But I have put in aftermarket mount before on the same car and never had anything like this. I am planning to loosen the motor mount, shake the engine, tighten them back up and see if it makes a difference. May be the engine is not seated properly.
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My 2001 V70 24T runs smooth when cold as it warms up it runs rough with delayed acceleration reaction ....
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2000 F350. Starts great. Idles fine. After it warms up a little, it will run rough and lose power like it is only hitting on a few cylinders. It will eventually stall unless I push the clutch in and bring it back to idle and then it smooths back out. I figured it was starving for fuel but I can rev it with the clutch in with no issue. I ran it up to 2500 rpm and held it there with the clutch in and ran perfect.
I let the clutch out and start rolling....missing again. The check engine light does come on but my scanner says that there are no codes stored. If I idle it, it will smooth out, and the light goes off. All I have done so far was change the fuel filter which was almost plugged shut and the housing was full of rust looking debris which I cleaned out. BINGO! Nope. Same issue.
I am really at a loss as to where to start. I bought this with 120k on it and it now has 170k and I have not had to do anything other than routine maintenance.
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2001 VR6 GTI....
Already done:
Replaced the coil pack and plugs
Measured resistance of plug wires (all at about 6K Ohm)
Replaced front O2 sensor
Replaced purge solenoid valve
Replaced coolant temp sensor
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pressure regulator
Replaced MAF sensor
Cleaned the throttle body
Cleaned the throttle position sensor
Ran a tank of seafoam treatment (injectors were new 6 mos ago.)
Checked running voltage of battery
It was smoking and stinking bad with a rich mixture. It improved with the MAF change but still runs like a farm tractor. Now it idles on 3 or 4 cylinders, runs rough through 3000 RPM then runs cleaner at above 3000 RPM, but only at light throttle. CEL is either on or flashing when driving.
Don't know what to do next - nice car not fun to drive like this. What this could be and how to test it?
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Need this software that would be willing to run a diagnostic on my truck? I replaced all the glow plugs a year ago and the relay a month ago. It idles really rough when it's cold (first start of the day with outside temps even at 90 degrees). It has no power for about 10 minutes. Sounds like an old John Deere 2 cylinder tractor for a few minutes. I have 370K miles on it. After it warms up it runs good. Plugging it in doesn't make a difference. There is no smoke while it is warming up. I have noticed when I accelerate quickly, it blows black smoke (not heavy but when following it you see and smell it).
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My 07 F-150 5.4 has a rough idle during a cold start for about 1 minute. It happens mostly when the weather is chilly or cold. Also after the first start it doesn't do it the rest of the day. Of coarse they can't find anything wrong and tell me there are no updates for anything like that.
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This has been an ongoing issue for about a month. When I start the engine after it has been sitting and is cold it runs ruff for about a minute then smooths out and runs fine. I pulled a P0304 code (cyl.4 missfire) but I do not get a CEL.
I checked the plugs and they were ok but I changed them and the wires anyway as it just turned 50k and the plugs were original. I could live with a little cold ruff idle but the code throwing bothers me. The truck is a 2000 xlt 4x with auto trans. and 4.0 engine. This is my second 4.0 ranger but I have only had it for about 6 months.
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The problem I have is when it is cold out under 40 degrees, my car starts rough and idles rough until it gets to temperature. My research has concluded it may be cold start. Does this sound right?
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