Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Running Rough Loud And Dies - P0022 Cam Sensor Code
Jun 6, 2017
My wife's 06 expedition 5.43v runs rough loud and dies. Not all the time just when it's to hot. I got a code it's p0022 cam sensor. I changed both started the rig up and heard loud rattling like metal maybe chain. It lasted for a the length of my video 1.4mins give or take then went fine, i turned the car off and back on everything seems fine. I know I got her oil done after driving. She had metal/plastic in her oil. I had all plugs done and actually i re did the 8th cylinder plug because it was miss firing and i pulled it by hand with only the socket no ratchet. I'm thinking the chain is going bad if not already bad. Only 113k miles my 04 f150 5.43v lasted 250k before motor swap...
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2005 f150 Lariat 4x4 5.4
Had phasers, tensioners, chains, guides, and sensors replaced. After driving the truck, it started to get a rough idle at low speeds, primarily in reverse. Changed both vct solenoids with no results. Started to get p0022 code. Changed the oil with motorcraft filter and 5w-20 twice after the work had been done, thinking it might need it. Vct's were a little varnished, but not too bad.
After a couple days of light driving, got a misfire on #3. Replaced the coil and it hasn't been back since. I am stumped at this point.
The computer show the timing to be at +13 when sitting stopped and in drive. It fluctuates a little, but not much. When the truck goes into a rough idle. The rpm's fluctuate wildly. It seems to be happening more frequently, the more I drive it.
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Getting code P0022, which is over retarded cam position, drivers side bank. My 2004 F150 has the 5.8 triton. I have replaced all cam phasers and tensioner a as well as the timing chains. I have also replaced both VCT solenoids. Before I was getting codes for both banks, now just the code mentioned above with a slight ticking as well. My question is this... What am I not seeing? What could be causing this?? Would it be beneficial t get the lockout kit for the phasers to always keep them open?? Seems to stall a little at very low RPM like when you are off-road.
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Driving around today my cel flashed on. Checked my programmer its saying P0022 intake camshaft position timing-over-retarded bank 2. What is the culprit?
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I just started to have this problem yesterday. Engine light comes on and stays on. Engine shakes and truck won't go over 50 MPH. Autozone code checker came up with P0171.
Truck has about 95K miles and I had the spark plugs replaced at 75K miles.
Transmission was rebuilt at around that time also.
I only drove it to Autozone and back today to post the code and see what everyone's opinion is as to what's wrong.
Here's what the printout says : P0171 "Fuel Trim Bank One Condition"
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I have replaced the camshaft pos sensor multiple times from Autozone (warranty ) and replaced with one from Advance Auto still get cam sensor code changed crankshaft sensor today still running like crap, stuttering. I have also done a complete tune up and the Distributor has not been pulled.
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So I have an 05 Expedition (I know this is the F-150 forum, but more visibility) that is throwing a P0022 and P0345. I get these point to the cam phasers, so before I throw $450 on a phaser kit and oil pump, I want to make sure its a good fix.
I have done a lot of research on this forum and other where people have replaced their phasers and it doesn't end up fixing the issue. So I just was looking to get some tips before I endup shot gunning parts.
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I have a 2007 F-150 5.4L and it started throwing codes p0012 p0022 p0345 and would knock and make popping sounds after it warmed up but I could rev it up and it would go away for the most part but would come right back when I started driving it. I have since pulled down the front cover and made sure it was in time, replaced both cam phasers, replaced both vct solenoids, and replaced both cam sensors. Same issue after doing all of that. I have searched the internet and have come up with nothing.
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My 2004 V8 touareg is throwing CEL code P0022. 'A' Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)
What would cause this? I found that these all could be related:
- Valve timing
- OCV
- Camshaft timing gear assy
- ECM
Would any of these cause it to burn oil more quickly? What steps are taken to diagnose the whole problem?
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I'm having the well known situation with P0345, P0022
Replaced both phasers, replaced cam sensor, checked timing (properly aligned), assembled back still running rough and rattling, used 10w40 oil,
Complete rebuilt engine, we did head work new seals and springs, valves are straight I had it checked out twice for assurance. New pistons, new rings, new bearings, new oil pump and seals of course. If I disconnect cam sensor Bank 2 it works fine but still runs a little rough.
- Replaced one tensioner due to gasket wear.
- I was told to check on alternator ground (it's missing I know cause it got broken and I haven't replaced that ground that goes into the engine.)
- I also was told change oil to 5w20 and filter (Not FRAM), add some lucas and it should be the fix.
- Also told to disconnect the oil pressure sensor and it would fix the problem but it will throw a code for that.
- I haven't replaced the timing chains I feel they're a little loose but they haven't jumped the teeth, so I guess they're good.
- I saw in one thread to move a teeth on phaser giving me code bank 2 (moved one teeth back and then one teeth forward but it didn't work)
When I first rebuilt the engine I was having the rough iddle then I scanned it and it gave me the cam positioning sensor code P0345, then after I replaced it problem got fixed and code was gone, I was using the truck for 2 days with no issues, then the problem cam back with the two codes P0345 and P0022!
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My 2004/ 4.6L F-150 had misfire issues and rough idle. Since changing the plugs and a COP the idle is better. It seems to stutter a bit at low RPMs around town, but it fine at higher RPMs. What to check next. Also since fixing the misfire and clearing the codes from the computer it won't enable all the emissions monitors. I've drive over 100 miles and the EVAP monitor still isn't on. The truck has about 213K miles on it.
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History: Truck was running okay but acted like a coil was bad when under load. I changed out all the plugs with Motorcraft and put on Summit racing COPs.
After the plug and cop change the truck will run rough after it is warmed up. I changed back to the old COPs and it runs the same.
First I replaced the MAF sensor after finding many posts on here about it. No change.
I read a bunch of posts on oil causing the problem so I used 10-30w and nothing changed.
I searched for a vacuum leak with carb cleaner and couldn't find one. I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the throttle body.
When I did the plug change I disconnected the PCM without disconnecting the battery. Would this cause this type of problem?
I think this is about all the stuff I found to try in the threads that came up through searching.
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My f-150 has an intermittent rough idle and consistently runs rough when you accelerate quickly. Vehicle is not throwing any codes?
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Problem: Initially thought replacing the rear wheel speed sensor on top of the differential would make the light go away on a 2007 F-150 XLT. What I've done already.
-Replaced the sensor
-Used the IDS ford computer to clear the code
-Test drove it for 30 minutes and the light is still on
-Reset any codes by disconnecting the battery
-I have gone as far as swapping a different ABS module thinking it was the problem, after it was re-programmed the module checked out and it wasn't at fault.
It must be a wire, all the fuses for the ABS system are fine.
Issue or traced all the wires and found a common problem such as a pinched wire or melted wire between the module and the sensor? From what I have been researching this code B1230 .
-bad sensor
-sensor grounding out somewhere
Attempted a multi-meter test today and didn't get very far.
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Our 2.0T (2008 Passat Komfort Wagon) with 70K miles is sitting in a mall parking lot and won't turn over. The lights and accessories all function just fine, and don't change/benefit from a battery jump. DRLs and all dash indicators light up like normal.
We push in the key fob and absolutely nothing happens. No error messages or anything. I tried a half dozen times; no change. Two things to know:
1) The car is under a recall for defective Electronic Steering Column Lock. I understand this can invoke the immobilizer? Car does seem immobilized. (I hadn't gotten the car in for the recall.)
2) The car recently ran rough and threw an Emissions system code. I hadn't gotten that code read, yet, but the roughness sorted itself out. I think this is unrelated and may be a case of "car wash syndrome" as my wife and son occasionally run the car for a minute or less to move it from the driveway to the street.
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I have a Ford F150 XLT. I have 67000 miles on it and the other night it just started running rough out of no where near idle. Once you got over 20mph the rough running would go away. I took it to get an engine change and engine flushed but it came back. It doesnt always run rough near idle or below 20mph. The Ford dealer says my engine has only 22 psi oil pressure near hot idle and cant engage the VCT phazers and they want to replace the whole engine.
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My 05 was running rough and misfiring quite frequently. After much deliberation, I took it in for a diagnostic hookup. The dealer said my driver side cat was clogged. Lucky for me, I was just under the warranty period(79673 miles). I have had it replaced and I can feel a noticeable difference in the way it runs. Could a clogged cat have made it run that poorly or am is it just in my head that it is running alot better?
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I just completed a successful second spark plug change, using Motorcraft SP515 plugs just like last time. After reconnecting battery and starting engine, it ran poorly throughout a short road test. Felt like it was skipping. Checked under the hood and found that the #2 fuel injector was disconnected, so I reconnected the injector.
I took another short road trip and it still ran poorly as if skipping. So, this time I disconnected the battery for several minutes while removing the #2 plug thinking I may possibly have fouled the plug by the injector not being connected. I also checked all of the other injector and coil connections. Reconnected battery and took another short trip. It still runs poorly. No codes yet.
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I have 07 sscrew with 5.4. 93,000 miles. At start up truck runs perfect. After 20-30 minutes of running motor will start to start running rough at low rpm. Diesel sound. I can rev up and motor clears up and idles fine. Should I replace VCT solenoids? Or phasers? Or both at one time??
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I just bought a 2007 F150 XLT with a Triton 5.4 with 80,000 miles on it. My problem is this, the engine seems to run ok ( a bit rough) until it gets up to running temp and I have driven about 10- 20 miles then most of the time, it starts to act up.
When I am driving it is fine, but when I slow down and come to an idle about 500rpms, it sometimes runs very rough, sounds like a diesel and shakes violently. It feels like it is doing damage. Sometimes it stalls. If I rev it back up immediately it will smooth out.
In speaking to some friends they've suggested things from plugged oil channels, (affecting the cam phasers? All the way to it needing new chains, phasers and guides. I don't want to spend a ton of money doing an improper service repair only to have the issue show up later . But there seems to be a lot of different answers to the same problem. Is the dealer going to be able to diagnose something like this fairly well? Or should I try to narrow it down a bit first?
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I changed the timing chain, phasers, tensioners, guides, and cam sensors and solenoids about 30k miles ago. Truck now has 170k miles. This past weekend engine started running so rough, it had the whole front end shaking. Threw 8 codes..1 bank..lean, bank 2 rich, timing retarded, cylinder G and F misfire, and more codes. It seems to have jumped timing pretty bad.
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