I have a 04 FX4 scab with a 5.4L and am having issues with it idling rough, and low power and stumbling upon acceleration and cruising speed. I did a scan and the codes show lean run condition, misfire on cyl 4, etc. I changed injector and coil on #4 and it seems worse. Scared to change the plugs, until I can leave the truck down a day or two in the event that I break one or more.
View 10 RepliesMy 07 F150 has no power. I changed the timing chain, cam phasers, spark plugs and all 8 coils and still no power. Rough idle and bogs on acceleration.
View 3 Replies2005 Ford F150 lariat 5.4
I had a misfire under a bit of a load (acceleration) and up hills. I changed spark plus with OEM Motor craft ones, truck ran super nice for a couple week.
Had the engine light flash, slow down and the RPM go up a tiny bit then back down and the light goes off
Now I'm back to miss fire different location, and a rough idle. I've swapped coil packs around and the miss fire stayed on cylinder 4.
Spark plug screwed or injector or ?????
2001-F150 5.4 Eng. bucking/stumble. I think my problem is slightly different than what I am reading about. Here is what I get (125k miles):
* Engine only bucks/stumbles intermittently and not at idle or at harder acceleration (this bucking is really harsh and makes the truck feel like a learner trying to drive a manual transmission and it is jumping down the street). The engine stumble is not a regular timing such as a cylinder going out and staying out for a period of time. It is quite a random pattern to the jumping
* Originally thought it was humidity related, but now I realize it happens in any climate
* No stumble in neutral at any rpm... only at a stop if I put it in a power brake load.
* When the stumble shows up, it seems like the throttle is around 10-25% (my best guess)
* Sometimes goes days without issue, but sometimes every ride and virtually every acceleration.
* Normally no stumbling at highway speeds, unless going up a hill.
* Every time it stumbles, it can be eliminated by either backing off on the accelerator some, or hitting the accelerator harder.
* No engine codes or CEL has ever come on
* Fuel mileage appears to be the same before and after the trouble started
Here is what I have done to try to correct it:
-> Fuel related (bad gas)... tried to run the tank as close to empty and fill it with fuel from different stations... when this didn't work, I have added HEET to it to dry up any water in tank.
-> Fuel delivery... replaced the fuel filter... seemed to work for one day, but then the gremlins came back.
-> Fuel delivery... ran multiple injector cleaners through tanks of gas.
-> Intake... replaced the filter.
-> Electrical... I don't believe this is related, but my battery died... parts store tested the system and stated the alternator was bad... replaced it, and took the old one to the parts store for bench testing and it was 100% OK... even thought the old showed OK, I left in the new one as a precaution. Only other item was a set of plug changes around 30k miles ago... I think I put in the super duper Bosch plugs with a lifetime warranty.
Current thinking and items I don't understand:
A) The bucking is so severe, it appears to be a random harsh loss of either fuel or ignition. A component that has failed electrically should give me a fault code with this level of severity. No trouble codes or indicators to electrically sense this disturbance...
B) For the fuel path, the most likely item is bad gas and I emptied my tank by running it as close to empty as possible and then used different gas and HEET to eliminate water. THIS MIGHT STILL BE THE CAUSE???
C) Another one for the fuel path is an intermittent fuel pump electrical connection or a weak pump from a pressure point. But if this is the cause, then why does it dissappear upon harder acceleration?
D) One last fuel thought is injectors... perhaps one or more have a range of delivery that they don't work properly... but this doesn't make much sense as at idle and harder accels are fine
E) From an ignition standpoint, perhaps I have failing COP's. I have not just gone out an replaced them due to my limited budget and the difficulty I read about changing them. Again, if one of these is failing in an either open or short condition, the computer should set a code for a misfire for the related cylinders. I get nothing. Hence my hesitation in making this change so far.
One thing i don't understand from the various posts is that the cops can fail under loading. what makes this happen as electrically, i don't think they can detect a load or not? it is hard for me to also understand why my truck would allow me to back off on the throttle or hit it harder and the issue disappears.
After scouring through hundreds of threads on this forum (which is Awesome, BTW), it seems as if this misfire / rough idle thing is fairly common (which is scary!!). CEL is on steady. Had the codes pulled; P0301, P0302, P0303. At the recommendation of the mechanic, I had the plugs replaced...no improvement. He then replaced the ignition coils...no improvement. Just finished replacing the MAP sensor. This actually had a VERY temporary positive effect. However, after about 5 miles of driving, the misfiring returned. Took the car to the Hyundai dealership, and they acted as if they didn't want to fool with it. They referred me to a couple of local repair shops...????
View 8 RepliesI have a 2006 f150 I just bought after my F250 was stolen. It has about 70k miles. It has been running pretty rough ever since I got it. It finally threw codes so I tried to address all the issues. Changed out a couple coils and all the plugs (motorcraft platinum). The camshaft sensor was also bad. Truck runs much better but still has an idle issue I cant seem to nail down.
I assume its something to do with air intake. It doesnt happen all the time. It runs rough and knocks and sometimes dies. If I give it gas it stops. I read it could be the idle air intake valve, but then I read that this model doesnt have one. I also read that air intake issues dont normally throw codes. Are there any common problems I could look for? Would cleaning the throttle body do any good?
I know the basics, but this kind of thing is tough for me to troubleshoot. You may have already seen me post this problem, but I didnt get much response so I thought I'd try one last time.
Ok, so I just replaced the entire timing set (phasers, chains, sprocket, tensioners ect) on my 2004 f150 5.4l about a month ago. I also extracted ALL 8 spark plugs and replaced those with the Champion 1 piece plugs. In addition, I replaced the intake manifold because I did this job when it was 20 degrees outside and I found a crack. Soooo, all that being said I put the whole truck back together and it runs like New. Until about a month later. When the engine gets hot, maybe after about a 30 minute drive or so, it has a really really rough idle until I give it a little bit of gas. Then it clears up. It has only done it 3 times since I put the engine back together. It might go 2 weeks and not do it. No codes. What I could be? EGR? MAS air? Only other thing I can think to say is if you get on it out on the highway, after about 3k rpms it seems like the power drops off quite a bit. Like the engine isn't getting enough fuel. I guess it could be just me, but it just doesnt seem right.. I guess I could try to unplug the MAS air flow sensor...
View 14 RepliesI hopped in my truck this morning, fired it up, and it idled nicely. I drove around the corner, and noticed that the truck was barely responding to the throttle. Then things got shaky. It was a very rough idle, almost like a misfire. But I managed to get the gas to respond and got the revs up to about 3K and it seemed to run smooth.
No CEL either. Currently, I have no place to really look at my truck as I don't have a garage, or driveway for that matter. I don't have a scanner that can read live data either. I'm limited in my tools currently as well.
I have 2008 f150 with 5.4 and 54000 miles. It has a bad vibration or rough idle only when AC is on. When AC is off it runs very smooth. Runs great while driving with AC on. Tensioner pulley was moving a lot more than normal when engine started vibrating so i replaced it and the belt but it didn't work. I also checked the other pulleys and they are good.
View 1 RepliesIs it possible to have an intermittent injector problem I am having the same problem with my 2004. Its not all the time its rough only at idle constantly. If I keep the rpms up it doesn't do too bad...
View 1 RepliesAn injector stuck open on my 05 5.4 and bent a rod. I had a new rod put in and all new revised Motorccraft injectors. This was about a month ago. Truck has ran great for the past 3 weeks until today I put it in park and it idles real rough, put it in gear and it smooth as butter again? (Once in a rare while it will continue to idle rough in gear for a few seconds but then clears up.) New motorcraft plugs were put in right before it bent the rod. The truck runs real strong other wise. I am about done with ford this pickup has been the biggest pile I've ever owned one thing after another and just when I think its fixed its some other stupid problem. I'll start by cleaning the maf and throttle body. Could it be a bad coil?
View 3 RepliesIt's a 2004 V8 Touareg with 100k miles.
Getting horrible misfires and they're jumping around to different cylinders + other intermittent codes. The symptoms are ROUGH idle, and hesitating/shaking under acceleration.
The MIL has never come on in this car. But, it illuminates when you turn the key forward. (Almost like previous owner coded the light out?)
Replaced all 8 spark plugs, just ordered 8 new ignition coils. Hoping the misfires are the coil packs but obviously theres some other stuff going on here.
Pulled codes 2 weeks ago:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
3) misfire cylinder 8 (P0308 )
4) warm up catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 2 (P0431)
5) secondary air injection system insufficient flow bank 1 (P0491)
6) secondary air injection system insufficient flow bank 2 (P0492)
7) 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1 (P0153)
Pulled codes 1 week ago:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 2 (P0302)
3) misfire cylinder 3 (P0303)
4) 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1 (P0153)
Pulled codes tonight:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 2 (P0302)
3) misfire cylinder 3 (P0303)
4) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
Cleared codes. Swapped ignition coils from 2 & 3 with 7 & 8. Drove around the block, then re-ran them:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
3) misfire cylinder 5 (P0305)
4) misfire cylinder 6 (P0206)
5) misfire cylinder 7 (P0307)
6) misfire cylinder 8 (P0308 )
I purchased an '08 F150 about 6 months ago, and have a problem that two mechanics haven't been able to solve. The truck has a 5.4L engine. Unfortunately, I bought from an auction and the 30 day warranty expired before I realized the problem.
After a longer drive (30 minutes to work) the engine is warm, and I always back into my parking spot or driveway. In low gear, it begins to idle very rough and the engine shakes. If I leave it long enough, it will stall. Usually I pop it into neutral, give it some gas, and its fine. I just bought a camper trailer, so I'll need to use the lower gear when backing up.
So far, the engine has been flushed twice, the solenoid replaced and phaser replaced. The second mechanic has recommended I contact a dealer, but haven't had luck with them with my previous Explorer. What it could be? I will be getting the diagnostic paperwork this week.
I have a 2005 5.4l f150. 105,000 miles. Recently While on a trip I experienced rough idle and stalling at idle. I drove it home 2hrs. The ride home was challenging. Poor acceleration, rough idle. Took it to the dealer and was told I needed plugs and I was 5qts low on oil! Not sure where the oil went. It hasn't been leaking and never seemed to burn oil in the past. They did the tune up. Picked up the truck. It ran fine while cold. Upon warming up it ran rough at idle and stalled just like it did before. Took it back, they said "you need a new engine. Upon warming the oil pressure drops indicating internal engine damage". I took it to a local guy he says replacing the cam phasers might fix it. What's the consensus, should I try the cam phasers? Look for some other potential problem or trust the dealer? (They did refund me for the tune up)...
View 14 Replies2005 f-150 4.6l v8 rough idle only when truck is to normal operating temp. I have run several gas system cleaners through the truck. I replaced the air filter, the fuel filter and the spark plugs. I am only getting 14to 15 mpg mostly highway. No DTC's are showing up. The truck only has 50,000 miles.
View 6 RepliesOkay I have a 2006 F-150 5.4 60,000 miles , Never once had any problems. I have always done the oil changes myself using 5w-20 mobile super and an S2 STP oil filter. Today, I did a normal oil change and once i filled it up I checked the oil it one last time and I topped it off just right according to the dipstick. And I also checked it after letting engine idle for 5 minutes. I changed the fuel filter also ( first time doing) but no leaks. I drove about two miles down the road, turned around and when I put it into reverse it idled really rough. It almost sounded like a thrown rod.
The rpm's dropped to about 500. I put it into drive and gave it a little gas and then all was fine. Engine ran perfect. I reversed it at least 5 more times and it did it every time but always recovering when given a little gas. I also noticed that there is some oil splashed on the undercarriage like it was leaking going down the road. I checked the filter gasket and it was fine and intact. It idles great in park, drives great. Just reverse it dives down and vibrates like crazy.? After getting home I noticed that the oil level on the dipstick is a little less than a 1/4 inch over the correct level.
Let me describe this perplexing issue. I have a speratic rough idle problem. When it happens it's almost like the truck wants to stall. Once going the truck is fine. There has never been any acceleration issues, but for a short time the truck would kind of lunge off idle. It hasn't done that for quite some time. I've replaced the fuel filter. There are no vacuum leaks that I know of. I've tried higher octane fuel. I've tried injector cleaner for a month. What should the fuel pressure be and what is the test port located? Is the fuel pump in the tank? If so, whats that big log looking thing behind the gas tank that the fuel lines run to? Also, there are no MIL codes...
View 14 RepliesI just received a 06 F150xl with a 5.4 triton and idles rough with the following codes! p0357 p0012 p0340 p0344 p0351 p0352 p0356 p0358 p0357 p0102 p0113 p0353 p0354 p0355 It's amazing the truck even runs and with no light on but it will accelerate. someone mentioned to clear the codes and drive it 50miles or so and read them again.
View 9 RepliesI recently bought a 05 f150 with 5.4 3v and 195k miles needing some work. Ran great, just had a code for timing over retarded. Originally it had a cracked timing cover, so i took it off to replace and found broken guides and bad tensioners on timing. I installed new guides, chains, and tensioners, and cleaned phasers, and put back together only to find it ran terrible and had a phaser rattle. I then went in and installed phaser locks, which took care rattle but not the running issues. I can not figure it out.
ISSUES: My issues almost mirror what is said in this thread here, but this issue was never solved. [URL] ....
My issue is when started cold it starts right up, idles ok, runs ok, although a bit sluggish. Once its warm it stalls at idle, shudders when giving throttle in overdrive, and if you kick it down it will continually backfire, and slowly accelerate... it kicks down but acts like its only getting 1/8 throttle, just kind of hangs at the same rpm and slowly climbs in rpm. Sometimes it wont backfire as much, and sometimes the check engine light flashes. After it stalls at idle and you start it back up it sounds like it shudders/backfires for a split second then starts.
It is throwing many engine codes, but most are from the phaser locks. Throws code for timing over advanced on each bank (phaser locks lock them fully advanced), cam timing codes for each bank, and then a code that doesn't have to do with the timing, P2106. I am going to run some live diagnostics on it today and report back but I am fully at a loss.
I have a 2004 FX4 5.4 with about 113,000 miles on it. Lately, when towing the camper (around 7000 lbs), truck runs great. However, when I come to a stop, it idles horribly and even stalls sometimes. When I rev it up, runs fine again. It only does this after towing when engine is under load for extended periods of time.
The only code it has ever thrown was for bank 2 camshaft over retarded. My thought was that it could be VCT solenoid for bank 2...
I have a 2008 Ford F150 4.6L and its been broken down in our shop for quite some time now. It started acting funny when I could not get the truck to do over 80kmh. Slow acceleration, and a horrible shaking when it idled. Eventually it was undriveable since I could go above 50kmh anymore. From looking online we replaced the plugs and coils. We removed the intake to find the gaskets were shot so coolant was leaking into the spark plug tubes which could've been the cause of a misfire. Fixed that. Still the same. We replaced the egr valve and dpfe sensor because we keep getting the P0402 excessive egr flow code. Still no luck. My dad is a journeyman hes just not too familiar with newer trucks.
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