Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Resetting The PCM After Repairs?
Nov 17, 2013
Here is the definitive how to guide to clear all the old bad shifting and idle habits from the defective parts you have changed out. A simple battery disconnect will clear codes but not the adaptive shift and idle strategy. Many times the vehicle will exhibit the same concern even after replacing the part due to old "Learned Value". Take a moment to watch the video and you will then finish the repair job right!
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2008 RX350 with 52k mile .... It's getting cold even in Atlanta. So I thought the warning light was perfectly normal..
Checked the tire pressure and was around 31psi, so pumped to 35 ish after running 10 min or so thinking it should be good enough. After driving back home, the lights are still on.
I double checked tire pressures and they are between 35 and 35.5 psi still. So I reset the warning light, and it the light won't go away. I think the owner's manual said, if it blinks for one min and stays on, then there's a problem in the sensor.
When I start, it blinks once, then stays on.
If I reset it, it blinks three times and stays on.
What I should do next? I did replace tires about a year ago at the local tire shop, but I don't think it was their fault, as I think the warning light worked fine last winter.
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2008 T2. The dealer says it's because I have my Parrot grounded to the radio chasis. I say they are full of you know what as it's been doing it since day one long before I installed the Parrot. It's a PITA at least once or twice a week when it resets all my presets to channel 184.
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I just bought a 2008 Mercedes E350 with 92,000 miles. After 2 days of driving a message displays " Service c due in 14 days" .I called local Benz dealer and they said the oil will need changing. The place I bought the car from assured me they had changed the oil prior to putting it up for sale. How do you reset this message on the car. I have looked through the owner manual and not found anything about this.
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I love my new ride too (08 V6). I hvae a couple of questions: How can you disable your DRL? I went to the convenience page and there's no option to disable DRL (day time running lights). How can I reset the tire pressure monitor sensor. I upgraded to the 19" wheels and my TPMS settings is for 17" wheels.
I looked all over the MFD and I don't have the option to reset them. But according to the manual that came with the car I should have that option. One thing I noticed their manual is not the greatest. By the way this is my first VW.
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I'm not sure where this should be posted, but my MFD showed a mileage reset to 0 today. I only reset at fill-ups so that I can do long division.
Anyway, while trying to figure this out, I saw on the Consumption screen that the AMPG also started bouncing around. Before I shut off the engine, it bounced between 39 and 42.
Since the last fill up, the pips have been decreasing quickly...4 in 71 miles. I know the pips are not a linear measure, but 4 in 71 miles seems pretty quick.
Where I should start looking?
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I had the oil changed in my 2009 Prius but the "change oil" light stayed lit. Rather than taking it back in to the Jiffy Lube, I found instructions on this site for resetting the light (hold down odometer button while pressing on button twice, etc.) and the display did what it was supposed to--the numbers were replaced with dashes and it seemed like the system reset. But the oil light remained on. I tried it several times to no avail.
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I have a 2008 prius and the Trip A and B odometers keep resetting to zero as well as the clock to a different time. It has happened 3 times in the last month.
I stopped to ask a seasoned service if he knew what the problem might be and said that he had never heard
of it. I recently 3 mos ago replaced the 12v ignition battery.
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I need to do a brake job on the front of my 04 Elantra, how to reset the caliper piston. I've tried the traditional c-clamp method but can't get the clamp to grip well on the non-pad side because of the caliper shape.
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I just changed out the battery in a separate issue I'm having with the car being dead every time after being left overnight. After changing the battery I had a new problem. The power windows wont work from the drivers side master panel. They worked fine before I changed the battery. There are a million posts online about resetting each window and that's great except for one problem. It doesn't work.
After the battery is unhooked the window switches all blink twice with a long pause. So, I follow the procedure and put the key in the ON position and roll each window down half way (reset and tried it rolling down all the way too) and then roll it back up continuing to hold the window switch in the up position for 1 full second after the window goes all the way up(some methods online variously say to hold it up for 12 seconds or 20 seconds. I tried them all). The blinking light goes out and the auto up/down feature works as expected from that specific window but no dice from the drivers master control.
One other oddity is that the window lock doesn't function anymore. On or off, each window will continue to operate from its own switch.
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From the day I got my '04 Treg, the tire inflation indicator on the dash has been a problem. For the first year or so, whenever it would indicate a tire inflation problem I would scroll the thumb wheel and get the MFI window with the diagram of the car and indicator as to which tire was low or the problem and would adjust till the indicator went off. Then I guess I got lazy and I noticed I could just go to "reset" in the same window and hold the thumb wheel down and the treg would then accept whatever the pressures happens to be as the new "standard". Not a good idea, I know.
Now here is my problem. Somehow, and much to my eternal consternation, I can no longer get the window in MFI that has tire inflation levels. That's right, it seems to be gone. I get "units" and "lights" and "comfort" and "speed warning" and "time" but no tire inflation category. What could have happened to it? I suppose that while get oil changes at the dealership they may, without my knowing, have reprogrammed my computer but I don't think the change coincided with any service. I've looked in the manual and it's useless on the subject. How I can re-attain the tire inflation window short of taking into the dealership for re-programming?
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I'm rebuilding the traction battery on my 2006 Gen II Prius. When completed, I'd like to erase any "error codes" that should be erased (I don't even know where these might be), and turn off the red triangle of death, the VSC light, the (!) idiot light, the engine check light and the maintenance required light.
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Missing the point about why to turn off the AC before engine....it is to evaporate the condensate in the interior air handling system so as to dry it out and prevent mold and mildew in the evaporator and duct work area!!!My wife does not like this either, but, it would be very difficult to clean out and kill a moldy mess in the evaporator and duct work. Part of this is also running the fan on a high setting for several minutes or more after killing the A/C compressor to blow things dry!
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Car is chugging when stopped. Changed the spark plugs and fuel filter. Still does it. Now checking the distributor. I've attached a couple pictures. You can see the brown marks. Is this a problem?
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I purchased a 2011 F350 with the 6.7 with 65000 miles on it about a couple of months ago. I have put about 3000 miles on it so far about 600 of those pulling a 30' 5th wheel. Today my 800 mile DEF warning came on so I picked up a 2.5 gallon jug and it took all of it. The last little bit went really slow so I figured it was full. I had some running around to do and the warning did not reset after about 15 miles and 3 start and stops on the engine. I read that they really need to be topped off completely do I grabbed another 2.5 gallon jug and was able to get about another gallon in. I then drove it for about 10 more miles stooping and starting 2 more times. The warning has still not gone away. Do I just need to wait a little longer or is this an indication of something I need to be worried about?
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My son's car wouldn't start after parking at burger king. In off, the car has clicks just behind the floor shifter in a black module and under and foward of engine compartment fuse block. Only way to stop clicking is to move ignition switch to another position or pull IB Battery MaxiFuse in engine compartment fuse block. No activity from car in any other ignition position. no instrument panel lights, radio.
Thought ignition switch changed it, same condition. Battery checks out good. jumpstarting even using a second ground on engine doesn't change symptom. I can't find the modules that are clicking in my Chilton manual. What are the clicking modules and how can I move forward to get the car out of the burger king parking lot?
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I accidentally left my car on overnight and my battery was dead in the morning, of course. I got it jumped and I drove all the way to work, but every time I slowed down at a light or for traffic the car started shaking. It has to be fairly slow before it starts happening, say 15-10 mph or lower. It never did this before the battery went dead, and it stops as soon as I gave the car any amount of gas at all. I'm hoping this is just a temporary side-effect of having to jump the battery. What the problem might be?
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oil level checked by dipstick, a little low
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I've got broken wires in the driver door. Do I have to solder them?
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I don't have my owners manual handy for my 2010 F-150 and was wondering how to reset the "change oil soon" message that appears everytime I start the truck.
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I have seen a bunch of the older posts. My V8 has been back to shop 4 times for the same problem. I keep getting "new battery cables" new command modules, power draw, etc. but no solutions. I am almost at the end of my warranty and am afraid i will go past without resolution.
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