I'm having a hard time trying to remove one of my rear brake rotors.
I thought these simply pull straight out and off, but mine might be rusted in place. I soaked the front facing area around the axle with Kroil and then tried jolting it out by tapping it with a rubber mallet. No success
What's the trick?
How to remove the front brakes pads and rotors on my GMC Sierra 2008 - 1500 - crew cab - 4X4.
View 2 RepliesI have a 04 f150 and the rear rotors are seized on and how to get them off WITHOUT destroying the rotors. i need to work on the ebrakes.
View 3 RepliesI replaced my warped front brake rotors a couple thousand miles ago and all was fine but when I went to swap over to my snow tires, I can see that the outer part of the rotor has been rubbing on the caliper bracket. This is happening on both front rotors. Could my new rotors be too thick or something?
View 4 RepliesSo my car has 36 or so thousands miles and well the rear brake pads and rotors were SHOT! The rear rotor was falling apart and huge chunks were coming off. The issue stands now that I can't spread the rear caliper for anything, the ebrake is off too. I tried to use the C-Clamp trick but it honestly didn't even budge. I also opened up the bleeder and master cylinders cap just to cross that off the list when trying to compress. This is the hardest caliper I've ever had the misfortune of dealing with and I fear that the passenger side is not going to be any better. Aside from spending more money or renting the "tool" is there anything else to check because the C-Clamp trick has work on mine and my father trucks calipers.
View 3 Repliesi have the brake (!) the ABS and the VSC lit up after i got new bearings and new brake pads and rotors, the car was also stalling before the mechanic removed these bearing "dust cover" circles that must have been causing speed sensor interfernce bc the spedometer was stuck on 0....so the car seems to be done stalling after those were removed and all the big lights went off then i hit the brakes a few miles later and those three lights came on...
View 2 RepliesIt's happened the last two times I've washed the car. I thoroughly cleaned the wheels with Sonax followed by soapy water, then washed the rest of the car. After washing, my usual routine is an initial towel dry, then I take the car for a short drive to shake the excess water out of crevices & the wheels, followed by the final towel dry & detailing.
This is happening on all four wheels. I know my front rotors are nearing their end of life, but the rears should have plenty of life in them (45K miles).
2004 F150 XLT, 5.4, 69,000miles.
I took my truck into Brake Check because my brakes were squeaking and the rotor needed to be worked on, when I slowed down the truck would slow down smoothly....it felt like I was pressing hard then releasing etc. I knew it needed new pads etc.
Well, they replaced the Pads, and did Rotor Reface on all 4. They recommended getting the Calipers Maintenance (front 2 wheels). They wanted $800 for new rotors too (in addition). I told them no.
Fast forward around 6 months. Truck was braking great, no squeaks etc for about 4 months. Then I begin noticing huge amounts of brake dust on my wheels. Might be normal not sure.
2 months later, but truck now squeaks again while braking. And when I'm going slow, I like in a parking garage I can hear this clicking noise while I'm on the brake. CLICK.....CLICK.....CLICK....CLICK.
If you coudn't tell, I don't know much about my truck. I'm trying to learn.
Well, whenever I slow down from ~50mph, my truck vibrates like nothing I've ever seen before. My windshield wipers are bouncing around it's so bad.
I took it to a Ford Dealership to get the works done, where they rotate the tires and change the oil etc, and inspect the brakes. The guy said the rotors need to be machined.
That's not normal right? I don't drive a lot. I don't ride the brakes, I haven't had to brake hard. 6 months from the work I've had done from Brake Check, and the rotors are bad again?
I'm just going to pay Ford to fix this issue and not go back to brake check because that means I'd have to drive 3hrs. I'm curious though, shouldn't their work on the rotor still be good.....not causing them to be worked on again?! I like my truck a lot, the brakes are just pissing me off. My last truck, a 2002 ford...I had till last winter till someone rear ended my truck totaling it, I never had to do any brake work on that thing.
I got suckered into buying the extended warranty for my truck, and it says it covers the calipers.
I'm taking it into a different ford dealership that is in my town next week, and was curious if any of you had some insight on my brake situation.
My truck is a 2004 F150, low mileage. I dont know if the brakes are original but theyve never been done since Ive owned the truck-4 years.
Last night I loaned my stock trailer 2200lb and truck to a friend (the trailer had been sitting 7 months) and first off the pin hole plug in box on back of truck had gotten bent somehow...so he hammered it back enough to get the 7 pin thing in and trailer lites working. WHen he unhitched he left the 7 pin plug in the hole so it would be easier for me to plug in next time.
He went about 20 miles rt with a horse in the trailer both ways. When he got back to my yard the rear passenger side tire was HOT (to hot to touch without getting burned) and there was a plastic/rubber type burning smell. Other 3 tires ok-mildly warm to the touch but most def. not HOT. When we looked at it with a flashlite there was a lot of rust type color on the rotor? (hope Im naming the parts right)-the other rear was just silver and dark.
He said I needed to replace the pads. Couple questions as Im too poor to go to a dealer or fix a lot of thing needlessly....so I just have friends do the work.
(I dont have a trailer brake box in this truck like I have in my other truck so I ASSUME that my horse trailer doesnt have brakes-how can I tell??)
What causes this?? I mean it was so hot I think if it would have gone another mile it would have caught on fire.
Do I replace just the pads, the pads and rotors and capilars??? I will be buying the parts at the store. Should I opt for a heavy duty or ceramic pad?
I need to go tot he store but am now scared to drive the truck even not towing. Should I be worried?? The brakes are gonna catch fire.
Brakes shimmy on my 05 f150. Been doing this since new new pads and rotors and alignment. what now?
View 5 RepliesEvery time I brake, there is an awful grinding sound in the rear of my truck. It doesn't seem to be affecting the brake strength, however something is obviously wrong. I have looked at the brake pads and they seem to be in good shape. I am a mechanical misfit, but I hate getting ripped off by other people at the brake shops.
2005 F150 Crew Cab, 5.4 V8....
So my 07 with 125k miles has had new rotors for about 50k miles or so, but for a while now when the brakes get hot it gets a violent shudder on braking at highway speeds....the odd part to me is nothing at lower speeds, and not always at higher speeds....do I just have warped rotors again? The rest of the front end I good and tight....
View 9 RepliesI have a 2006 F150 xlt 5.4 3v. I've owned it since Oct. 15'. In approximately Nov. I lost the rear right brake and blinker light, and then around Christmas I lost the rear left brake and blinker. I also have no rear hazards, but the inst cluster flashes at a normal rate when the flashers are engaged. All running lights work, and 3rd brake light works. Front blinkers work and all other electrical works. Have checked all fuses and bulbs with no solution.
View 6 RepliesHow does it come off. I wasn't able to turn the axle vent without turning the block on axle for the brake lines.
I would like to remove the brake system from my current axle without breaking any lines open, then putting a new axle in and put the brake system on the truck to the new rear axle.
I have a 2006 F150 and the left rear turn signal and brake light has quit working. Also the license plate lights do not work. The cruise will disconnect when signalling a left turn. I have checked fuses and bulbs and the wiring/connector at the multifunction switch with no luck.
View 2 RepliesI need to replace the rotors and calipers on my 04 accent gl. I noticed there are 5 bolts on the back of the caliper. I know one is for the flex hose connection. Then there are 2 big hex bolts closest to the dust plate. Are those for the caliper mounting bracket? and if so will they need to be removed? Then the final two are on the outer edge, however the top one is rounded and rusted, is this normal? The one on the bottom is a hex. So what needs to be removed to change the rotors and pads? I also notice that there are two screw holes in the rotor, that I guess snug it in place against the hub, however the screws are missing. Is this bad? are they needed? and if so can I get new ones?
View 10 RepliesWhat tool I need to replace the rear disc/pads in my 1998 VW Passat 1.8T. I believe is called a wind back tool and I have seen it in the web.
View 1 RepliesGetting ready to perform the clean and adjust rear brakes maintenance. I took a digital caliper and measured my rear drum brake thickness. The thinnest measurement I got was 3.19 mm.
I looked up the specifications and rear shoes brand-new are 4 mm. Minimum thickness allowed is 1mm.
I have 95K on my 2008. Since my brake shoes are showing close to brand-new measurements does this mean my rear drums are out of adjustment or is this normal?
XT1080 ?
2008 hyundai elantra. I'm trying to replace the rear brake pads and rotors. I was able to do the front ones easily. Any good tips to remove this rotor. I have tired tapping on a rotor and it wont budge.
View 2 Replies99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
How do I remove ignition lock cylinder to take and get new set up?
View 4 Replies