Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Removal Of Wiper Cowl?
Mar 19, 2011
I want to remove my wiper cowl and paint it satin black to get rid of the ugly fade. Just want to know, is the cowl just held on by clips all the way around that you just pull up on and pop out?
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2707 150 4x4 supercrew. the damn wiper cowl keeps popping up in the center, then it seems I get ice under the edge and against the window, and she sits and growls at me at hwy speeds. like someone is rolling a golfball around and around and around...etc.
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I have no wipers or windshield washer. when I turn on the wipers I can hear a click in the cowl at the wiper motor. fuses are good #106 30amp fuse and #33 15 amp fuse. I have 12volts at the wiring on the motor left side with key on and 4.5 volts on the green wire with key off. I replaced the wiper motor and same thing, just clicks when I try wipers. I connected a jumper wire to the ground and no luck.
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Ive got a 99 F250 (5.4 if that matters), after a good long rain like the one we had this weekend, when I drive the truck I get water splashed on the passenger floorboard. It hold enough water that if I rock the truck side to side I can hear it sloshing. I am wondering if there is a common drain for these things that gets clogged. When my a/c runs I get a nice puddle under the truck so it looks like that is not clogged up, and I didn't know if they were the same drain or not.
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How do you remove this clip holding the wiper linkage to the back of the motor? I can't see what kind of clip it is to know how to remove it. Ford says to remove the wiper pivot and let it drop. Is that necessary? I can't barely get to the back of the motor so I'm having to feel the clip and remove it but since I don't even know what kind of clip it is it makes it so much harder. Does the cowl cover not come off or is it just this access panel?
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My 05 F150 wiper fluid nozzle is in drip mode on the drivers side, pass side works fine. Is there an easy way to unclog, without having to remove that plastic shroud that surrounds it?
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2005 f150 4.6l up on jack stands right now with the oil drained and a few bolts out of the oil pan. It looks like I have to take the cross section out to get this to even move but I don't know if that's going to be enough. I'm sort of running trial by error here but hoping I don't do something I cant put back together. I'm assuming ill be okay to take the cross section out but I don't know if I need to move the differential to get it out. My oil pan gasket is leaking and I'm trying to replace it.
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Is it hard to remove the headlamp assembly. I am only asking because i am considering purchasing smoked/blackened headlamps and tailights on ebay.
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Whats the process on removing the projector hid lightbulb that has burned out its a 6000K?
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I plan to attempt my first ever brake job on a 2008 Ford F-150 XL 4.2L V6 RWD with 50K miles on it.
I've done a lot of reading in order to prepare and from what I can gather it seems best to take off the brake rotor altogether in order to clean off the rust build-up and apply some nickel anti-seize compound in between the hub and rotor. I live in a cold climate and we use quite a bit of salt on the roads here so I thought while I'm changing the pads I might as well clean the rotors of all rust build up while I got the calipers off.
My only problem is that I only have a 265 foot pound torque wrench and the spindle nut that holds my rotors on calls for 295 ft. pounds torque. Also the Haynes manual says that you should buy a new spindle nut ($20 part) and cotter pin. I have neither.
So...I am wondering whether I should forestall taking off the rotor and just do some surface clean-up of the rotor with some Evapo-Rust Rust Remover then blast it with some Brakleen and call it good. I plan to use some caliper grease of course and a dab of nickel anti-seize compound on the backsides of the new brake pads. Is this bad practice, will I regret this in 50K more miles when the wheel hub is completely married to a rotor? How likely is that do you think?
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I'm trying to remove the upper control arm on a 2004 F-150 2WD. I took the wheel off, and it looks like I can't get the bolts off that attach to the frame off without taking out the shock and "coil over"? Is this the case, or is there another way to do this?
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Sstripped threads using an impact to remove the plugs?
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I have a 2006 f 150 5.4 ... Changed out all spark plugs, Never had a CEL since new. I disconnected the Battery, Removed the PCM (clearance problem)replaced the plugs, (of course broke 1) replaced PCM, hooked up battery. Truck runs smooth as can be. CEL is now on steady. Could this have happened because of PCM removal? Heard about flashing PCM? Or should i bring it to Auto zone for code reading?
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I just picked up a 05 F150 lariat 5.4 2wd with a 177k on it. What the chances of these plugs coming out with out breaking? Any tips tricks to getting them out? Should I put motorcraft plugs back in it ?
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I've got my dash pulled apart but am unclear as to what I need to do with my steering wheel. I've got a 2007 F150 manual that says "remove steering column pinch bolt" along with a warning about not allowing the steering column shaft to rotate once the bolt is out. I believe I have identified the bolt (sits a few inches away from the steering shaft's u-joint on the side facing the driver -?).
How do I ensure the shaft doesn't rotate? Do I need to make the wheel lock before removing the bolt? Will the steering column drop down thereby allowing the dash to be pulled away from the firewall or do I need to remove additional bolts?
I saw this video : F150 Heater Core part 1 - YouTube
For 98 F150, but the differences in design are throwing me off a bit.
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I am in the process of installing a 6" pro comp lift on my 04 supercrew 4x4. Things were going good until I got to the upper strut bolts. Trying to remove the 3 nuts, one came off on the passenger side. The other 2 just spin, the bolt and nut. Haven't tried the drivers side yet. The only idea I had was making a notch in the top with a dremel tool and small cutting wheel for a screwdriver but my dremel tool smoked..
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How do you remove the transmission lines from the radiator. I have to replace the radiator and don't want to mess up the lines.
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My uncle has an 05 F150 extended cab. When he bought it he put his license plate in the rear window until he could get some bolts for it. When it was there it fell between the back of the rear seat and the back of the cab. Currently he has one plate on the rear, but is worried he will get stopped for not having a front plate installed. So he knew I am an FTE member and I could find out how to remove the seat back. I have not tried to remove it nor seen if I could reach it.
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I've read a few posts of people trying and they say the cant be removed but I just don't believe it! I cut off some of the rubber on the with a knife and its all white plastic underneath.. I just don't believe that its actually impossible to remove this.
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I figured out how to remove the front wiper blades you lift the clip then slide them off but the rear wiper blade I cannot figure out how to remove from the arm.
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2004 4.6 V8 Trition ,two wheel drive, STX Pickup. By removing the bottom radiator hose, will that allow all engine coolant to be drained from engine? If not, about how much coolant will remain in the engine in terms of quarts or percentage of total vehicle coolant capacity?
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