I've read a few posts of people trying and they say the cant be removed but I just don't believe it! I cut off some of the rubber on the with a knife and its all white plastic underneath.. I just don't believe that its actually impossible to remove this.
View 3 RepliesI found that my transmission was low on oil but couldn't find a leak. What I did find is that the seal in the transfer case was letting trans fluid transfer into it and then it would leak out the out put seal. I purchased the new seal and gasket and repaired it myself in about 3 hours. I removed the rear drive shaft and removed the front drive shaft from the transfer case alone or you can take it out completely if you want.
Drained transfer case unplugged wiring and one vacuum line. Unbloted from trans and removed using trans jack. The bolts are not the easiest to get to. i used a 3/8 ratchet to break them loose then used a stubby 3/8 to get them out because they are around 2 inches long. Once down I had to jack up the truck to get it out from under it. I removed the old seal and installed new one cleaned everything up and installed with a new gasket.
On my 2007 f150 5.4 last week i changed out the driveshaft and it smoothed things out. This past weekend I dropped the transfer case oil and refilled it with motorcraft transfer case oil as per ford but now the front end seems to shake more than before. It just seems to come through the steering wheel but the wheel seems tight almost like a death wobble with solid front axles except obviously this truck doesn't have that. There are no leaks and I filled it up to the top fill hole with between 1.5 to 2 liters of oil until it started running out. I should also mention that when i went to check the level it was overfull on the top plug but it was that way for the last 90,000 km or so.
View 3 RepliesI have a problem transfer case 2006 f-150 , it tries to engage once in a while as I am driving and makes a terrible noise . I pulled the vacuum lines off at the hubs on each front hub and it stopped trying to engage. What the problem could be ?
View 1 RepliesI'm in the process of changing my shift motor on my 04 f350. I can't get it off because of a broken bolt. The previous owner must have done this before, and snapped the head and some of the shaft off, so it's basically an alignment pin that's recessed into the hole on the motor. For some reason it's holding the motor on, even though I don't think the hole is threaded. Any way to get it off. I'm thinking that taking a MAP gas torch to the casting on the motor may be my best bet.
View 8 RepliesMy transfer case will only pull vacuum to the hubs when floor shifter is in between 4 low and 4 high. as soon as the dash light comes on for low or high it looses vacuum. Is there a switch that tells it to pull vacuum? Any good breakdown of the transfer case?
View 6 RepliesI had my truck at the shop today and it was determined that the transfer case front driveshaft seal is leaking and the gasket between the transmission and transfer case has also failed. The shop wants a reasonable amount to fix it but they need the truck for 2-3 days. It doesn't appear to be that difficult of a job to remove the transfer case. Am I missing something? Dropping off the truck and leaving it for a few days is the difficult portion......if they could do it in a day I'd just pay them and be done with it. So my thought was to pull it and just drop it off so they can replace the seals and fix any other issues.
View 1 RepliesI tried searching and googling but came to no results, unless its like similar trucks. How do the 4x4 shift remove? I have an 04 F250 and someone decided to put the shift on sideways so the 4HI and etc read upside down before I purchased the truck. Do I just rip the thing off?
View 1 Replies I have a BW 1345 transfer case. Does it have the shift in the fly capability? And, if so, what precautions should be taken if shifting on the fly?
Second, where can I get a "plate" or label that shows the shift pattern? I know the shift pattern, I just want to post it in my vehicle in case anyone else ever drives it and needs to use the 4 wheel drive.
My TC motor picked today of course with the snow to go bad. Luckily I hobbled to advance right as they were about to close and got one. I laid in the snow and changed it. Needless to say I got soaked beyond belief. Anyways now it changes in and out well but still seems way to loose in the rear. Not sure if something else is malfunctioning or if these things are like that. Right now I don't feel nearly as safe as I did in my expedition and that was without even using 4hi or low just the A4WD. The excursion is sliding everywhere. My tires have great tread but are highway tires so maybe that's the issue. They are Dura Grapplers. I'm going to try throwing some weight in the rear to maybe gain some traction.
View 2 RepliesWhere it is located in a 97 F150 XLT Automatic with the ESOF?
Transfer Case Shift Relay Module
If it goes bad, would it be possible to still select 4L just no 4H?
2014. Noticed the feel and sometimes clunk when shifting to 4 high? My house sits up a hill and this time of year, routinely have to use 4X4 to get up. There is a little more noise and vibration than im use to. Usually shift coming down a semi flat dirt/ice road at low speeds, typically about 10mph. Going in for first oil change soon and was gonna ask them to check it out for peace of mind.
View 6 RepliesOriginally it would light up on the dash, the hubs would lock, but the transfer case would not shift in to 4 wheel. Followed the troubleshooting I've found, was receiving power at the connection on the shift motor but it was not turning.
So I went and bought a new motor, installed it, still wouldn't turn. (with the motor off the transfer case but electrically connected). So I found a few more replies about the relays, swapped them, nothing.
Removed the covers and manually flipped the connection, nothing. Now my hubs are locked, transfer case is not, and I get nothing when I change the switch on the dash. (no lights, no hub click shift, no 4 low, nada). All the fuses are good, just doesn't work.
I purchased a 98 dodge ram 4x4 v8 with automatic transmission. When I purchased it the guy told me there was an issue with the transfer case. From what he told me he got stuck and the transfer case is the result. I was told there is a fork in the transfer case that is probably bent? Does this sound correct? It is currently in 2wd. Do I have to remove the transfer case to replace the fork? What is it like to remove the transfer case? Drop the tranny?
View 16 Repliesjust bought the truck first time out hit some snow and it was not engaging low or high range, but I noticed that when I was backing up it was engaged again works in high and low range, i had to reverse about a mile up the road but it worked ? 99 4.2 standard with manual shift transfer case....
View 1 RepliesI have a 03 Excursion 6.0 that just developed a transmission leak between the transmission and transfer case. It appears to be the transmission because the transfer case fluid is at the top. I started to notice transmission fluid leaking in my driveway. I have not had any driving issues with the transmission but I am not driving until I correct the problem. If this is the rear transmission seal, how had is it to change this seal? Must I remove the spacer between the transfer case and 5r110 tranny? Any special tools needed?
My temps have stayed at or below 150 if I recall. My fluid is slightly low in the transmission at about 134 operating temperature. The fluid is clean, red and has no burnt odor. My transfer case is topped off. Fluid ran out the fill plug when I removed it.
There is an aluminum square spacer than necks down. It is about 6" long between the transmission output on the excursion and the transfer case. The leak I see is where that spacer meets the transfer case. I see enough for the fluid to leak onto the cross member and to the driveway. I estimate that I have lost less than a 1/2 quart of fluid over a couple weeks.
I am curious if it is possible to make a stand alone controller for the electric shift transfer case in a 2000 F-350?
The reason I ask is, this is swapped into a 4x4 conversion in a van and I would like the transfer case to work like the factory, but I don't want to swap over the whole GEM module. I have the high to low and low to high shift relays and wiring, the selector switch from the dash.
I know that powering up the relays will shift the transfer case, but the GEM module tells when the relays need to shut off, and that is where I am not sure what to do. I am assuming that the other plug on the shift motor (6 pin plug) is the sensor that tells the GEM module where the shift is at.
What needs to be done (with a bank of relays).....
I am trying to remove the shift knob and the steps are entirely different than the DSG knobs from the GTI; You take just the boot off (not the assembly) then underneath is a hose clamp which needs to be removed. (this is not on the GTI version); I cannot figure out how to get this clamp off; I guess you need hose clamp pliers? And then do you need a new hose clamp? Won't it ruin the clamp?
View 24 RepliesI was looking through the DIY and I couldn't find one that just removes the knob it self. I know its all the same steps to remove everything but everyone just swapped the boot and everything. I want to keep my boot and just change the knob to a solid glass ball.
View 1 RepliesI recently purchased my R32 and the previous owner installed a short throw shifter. The knob and aluminum ring look like they are installed correctly but the boot won't stay up next to the aluminum ring. I originally thought that it would just either snap into place or it would need to twist to lock it into place. I've looked at and I can't figure it out. How it is supposed to attach to the aluminum ring?
View 4 RepliesI've tolerated having to release my key with the manual push button for years. Now the interior is disassembled (after replacing evap core) so I'm looking into fixing the BTSI.
I've never been clear on whether the problem is in the console by the gear shift or in the steering column. The thing is in the steering and has a solenoid that will mechanically allow the key to turn to the LOCK position when energized. The manual release is at the bottom.
I connected the leads of that white thing to battery voltage and sure enough, the post retracts. So that seems to work. However, when connected to the car wiring, there is not enough voltage to retract. It retract, it will hold. I concluded the problem is near the gear shift. Probing the lead (with the white thing disconnected) indicate battery voltage, but that's without any current.
Battery voltage is getting to the wiring harness in the console. Probing the leads to the Park switch indicates 90 ohms resistance. I suspect this is too high and causing a big voltage drop so there's not enough to energize the solenoid in the column.
What can be replaced in the console to remedy this? Is it only the park switch?
How is the gear shift knob removed? I see a slit in the back of the knob, but don't know how the mechanism works.