Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Rear Wheel Wells Rusty - Permanent Repair?
Mar 21, 2012
have an 04 f150 that is starting to show some rust in the rear wheel wells. Right now there is just a bit of rust where the painted panel is seamed to the inner panel around the arch, but I can see small spots where the paint is starting to bubble about an inch out on the outside of the panel. I want to keep this thing looking nice for a few more years; what should I do?
I'm a very good welder, can hold my own when turning wrenches, have done lots of metal fabrication as well as painting with a cup gun, but I have very little autobody experience.
I am thinking there is rust between the inner and outer panels and that removing the surface rust and repainting would be a very temporary repair, correct? Could I cover it up with some sort of wheel well liner? If so, how to I slow the existing rust? Is there any sort of partial preformed steel panel/well that allow you to cut off the rusty stuff and weld new stuff on? I'm a little leary of the last thought- I could do the fabbing, but not sure how I'd do getting it back to 'smooth'
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My rear fenders are pitting and bubbling with rust on both sides. I had my local body shop have at it and it looked good for about 6 months. Now bubbling up again. I see in older trucks like mine that this is a common problem. I'll probably have to replace rhr box if I really want to fix it? Or just learn to live with it.
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Having issues with rear wheel wells rusting, mine is a 2004 f-250. I wax at least 10 times a yr. Can't believe I have rust there...
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I am sick that my 2008 F250 with 107K miles is exhibiting signs of rust this spring.. While filling up the tank saw a bit of a bubble on the left side top of the wheel well. Another one on the passenger side. I've had the truck since new and have tried to keep it as clean as I can being that it is a daily driver in the rust belt. Certainly thought that I'd get more than 6 years before the rot showed up. Don't remember my 1999 F350 exhibiting that, but it was a dually and had the fiberglass fenders that might have hidden it.
Took it to the local body shop and he told me to get used to it, just a matter of time around here. He said he could work on it, but it would never be fixed, rust would eventually return. He suggested sand blasting myself, repairing as I could, oiling the inside behind the tail lights and bolting on some Bushwacker flares. Having driven Ford trucks all my 40 years of driving I'm going to be looking at Dodges next time I buy.
Drivers side ...
Passenger side ...
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I have a 2011 Sonata Limited, I'm noticing some heavy rusting in the wheel wells especially in the rear (not sure if wells are the right term), what can I do?
It's very ugly, It has very heavy surface rust, the car is 2011, I don't remember seeing this much damaged when I purchased the car last winter. I took it to the dealership, they said they cant change it because it is purely aesthetic and the components still work.
I'm researching rust proofing, but that seems more like a preventative action than a remedy, what can I do, it really annoys me every time I look at it. I don't know why Hyundai chose such poor material inside the wheels that rusts so easily. I have compared it to other Sonatas I see on the street, mine is a lot worse.
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A Water gets into wheel hubs much easier with aftermarket wheels than OEM wheels. I have a set of BBS RS-GT wheels and this is what the rear hub looks like after about a year. Previously I noticed with OEM wheels there is just a little surface rust. Hopefully I won't need to remove in the future as it looks welded.
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My 2004-V8 has developed some creaking sound that seems to come from both front wheel wells when going at low speeds. Going over bumps does not produce them but hard braking and corners tend to produce them. My suspicions are either brakes or steering. Had all the suspension bushings done about a year ago and the dealer did not tell me about worn steering parts. Steering tracks well and suspension is taught. Vagcom shows nothing as this most likely is completely mechanical or even structural.
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Is there some common issue with this? Purchased the vehicle new in 2008, and in 2011 we have had to have the car in for this issue at least once a year. They replace one, then the other, then back to the first one, and now it appears the second is not working again. Each winter we run into this. The dealer will only warranty for a year, so I am paying each time.
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My 2000 V10 Ex 4x4 (has 146,000 miles) with some rust on rockers and wheel wells runs pretty good. The exhaust needs some work. The transmission shifts pretty well I think, except sometimes from 1st to 2nd its a little jerky (like in a parking lot). I've put powerstop brakes on all four wheels, and have been maintaining it pretty well since I bought it almost two years ago.
Here's my issue. My 3rd son (out of 4) was diagnosed 2 years ago with ALL (Acute Lymphoblastic Leukemia). His End Of Treatment (EOT) date is July 8th 2018. This is relevant because to celebrate his EOT, we are planning on taking a 2 week road trip out west in our new to us hybrid travel trailer we just purchased this past February. We are taking the camper on a few weekend trips this summer and one week long trip to Michigan in July (we're from Ohio).
My concern is this: am I risking a ruined trip out west with such an old vehicle? I don't really trust it for such a long trip, I worry something would fail me and ruin a trip that's supposed to be celebrating my son conquering cancer. Am I being overly paranoid? I see V10 trucks and Excursions all the time with more miles than my own. I just worry that the rust will just be too much and the driveshaft will fall off, or the transmission will fail while we're towing up the Bighorns, or in Yellowstone. You get the picture.
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I just went to Steamboat this weekend which requires driving over two mountain passes in a snow storm...I only go if it is snowing. This was the first trip with my new 2013 FX4 and the front wheel wells filled up with so much ice that the wheels would rub after a bump in the road. The mountain roads do have lots of frost heaves so this would happen fairly often. The ice was all around the wheel well with a huge build up behind the wheel. It also covered the step rails. Would mud flaps do anything to preovent this build up? Or any other tricks?. Otherwise the truck did fine...
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I have a tan 4-door 2006 Jeep Commander with a little over 100,000 miles. I recently had some work done to the rear end transmission. When I had hit the gas when going at high speeds, there was a loud vibrating noise coming from the bottom and rear of the vehicle, and when going downhill there was a loud whistling type of sound. Initially, my mechanic, who I've been going to for the last 8 years, looked at the vehicle and gave me a worst case scenario that the whole rear end might have to be replaced. He said it could cost a grand or more. The whole rear end did not have to be replaced. My mechanic did work on the car and fixed I don't know what on the rear end.
Before my mechanic gave me the car back he said there would be a slight whistling type sound when driving. And there is a whistling type sound, every time I hit the gas going about 20mph or more. Although my vehicle does drive and sound substantially better, this sound is driving me crazy when I'm driving. My mechanic said that there is nothing that can be done without replacing the whole rear end. Is this true? Can anything else be done to minimize or eliminate this whistling type sound?
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I have a 2006 F-15 XLT with a bed cover, tailgate cover and separate tailgate cap. The cap has cheap plastic clips that went into the tailgate but have broken off...this is a problem as I have a tonneau cover that is a tight fit. Every time I close the tailgate with the cover on, I have to jam the cap down and hope it is far enough by the time the tailgate closes.
2 Questions:
1) Where can I buy a reasonable replacement?
2) Is there a good solution to just repair? I tried JB Weld, but that did not seem to hold (surprisingly)
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I just completed a detailed cleaning of my SF last weekend and I noticed that every plastic screw and plastic nut inside the wheel wells were all loose. (Not the screws on the outside but inside above the tires.) I tightened them only finger tight.
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My rear wells don't engage...long story short, we hooked it up to a vag-com, it couldn't even communicate with the controller and the car wasn't throwing any other codes. I put it in the air and spinning the left turn clockwise makes the right tire turn counterclockwise, so that's normal... I took the connector off the Haldex controller and it had fluid in the connector... so I'm a victim of the Haldex fluid migration, now I'm lost on how to fix it? is it the pre-charge pump leaking? Do I replace the controller and pump? I need my R to feel like an R again, and not an fwd GTi ...
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I can't believe how rusty my rear end is with 17000 miles? It's not flaking off rusty but it's not black anymore, is this bad ? I was thinking of painting it , but not sure if it's worth it????
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my rear bumper is pretty much eaten up, too.
How difficult is this to replace?
Good source for rear bumpers? Just something stock; don't need anything wild, crazy, lighted, etc.
It's a work/hunting/fishing/hauling truck. That's all.
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My c is about 5 12 months old now, and the rear brake drums are already covered in rust.
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So I noticed the other day whenever I go over bumps there is a rusty noise from the driver side rear spring/shocks. I don't hear this noise during normal driving just when going over bumps. What it is? I drive it everyday and the car has 53k miles.
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It's happened the last two times I've washed the car. I thoroughly cleaned the wheels with Sonax followed by soapy water, then washed the rest of the car. After washing, my usual routine is an initial towel dry, then I take the car for a short drive to shake the excess water out of crevices & the wheels, followed by the final towel dry & detailing.
This is happening on all four wheels. I know my front rotors are nearing their end of life, but the rears should have plenty of life in them (45K miles).
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I recently had my rear axle seals replaced due to leaking. Does the rear diff fluid get replaced on that repair since the rear diff cover comes off? Trying to figure out when my next interval for changing rear diff fluid should be.
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When I park, the climate system adjusts to send air down to the foot wells. The climate system keeps the air running long enough to drain the left side battery. I replaced both batteries two days ago. This morning my, brand new, left battery was dead again. The first two weeks I owned the car I never noticed the climate staying on, only the last 6 days.
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