05 F150 2WD 4.6 LWB, The rear end whines when letting off the gas and makes a clunk or 2 when taking off and a clunk when I stop. It has 277.000 Miles? Or is it just time for another rear end...
View 3 RepliesWhen going around 48mph clunking sound comes from rear end. seems like it does that when you are trying to maintain that speed. Also have had 7 window regulators to go bad on have 1 working window 4 bad now replaced the same one 3 times. Called Ford they said no complaints have come in about the window issue on 2004 trucks...
View 1 Replies2004 super crew. It is not the seat belt. Can I unsnap the seat to get back there?
View 4 RepliesI'm new here to the F-150's forum although I've owned a few since 2001. I bought this F-150 '05 5.4L Lariat. Really nice truck. But when I purchased it, it had this weird noise inside the cabin. I thought because it had a camper on it that some tranny noise was coming up thru the camper and the rear cab. After taking camper off, the noise was still there. From everything I've read online, it could be rear pinion seal, differential bearing, tranny, front hubs, etc. I have left a video. Pay close attention to the little whine. Kinda hard to hear if your not listening for it.
Note- when i drive it is most definitely coming from the middle to rear of the truck. But I'm not ruling out anything. I have looked underneath the truck and the differential is dry and the driveshaft area near diff is dry. No leaks. I have not checked fluid in diff. Is there an easy way for these trucks? I have read and heard about adding an additive? The noise starts at about 10-15 mph all the way up to 80. I've never taken it past 80 but I'm sure it's still there.
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My 05 f150 is lift with a 6" skyjacker lift I've only had it a week from the dealership when it stopped firing on cylinder 8 which is a lil problem easy to fix,but then it started clunking around turns in the front and rear end. So I took it the dealer and 3 days later they give it back. It's running good but its still clunking in the front they said they changed the cv joints and tie rod ends but after I got home. I inspected it they changed one damn tie rod and that was it. Is it the tie rod end that's still making the noise?
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 2005 fx4 and there is a whining or whirring sound coming from the rear of the truck when I hit around 70km/h. the second i let go of the accelerator it stops.
Today when I got home after a 15 minute highway drive, i got under the truck and felt the differential area. it was warm but not hot. and there was a wet spot on it. i wiped off a drop of oil. there was also a wet spot on the bottom, seemed to be just water? I'm not sure.
Some family members borrowed my truck, and when they returned I have a loud whining noise coming from the rear axle, which I have determined is a 9.75 rear. I checked oil level and it was high enough, but has a slight leak from the pinion seal. Everything feels solid but I have nothing to compare it to.
Its on a 2005 Super Cab with the 5.4L 183,000 miles. The front pinion seal was replaced in Feb 2 years ago, by the dealer's mechanic, who may have been a shade tree mechanic.
I am a Youtube Certified Mechanic, as in, I watched about 10 videos of people working on their 9.75 differentials, and realize I don't have all of the tools to do the job, such as a press, or race drivers, or the special gauge.
How many of you have tackled this issue? What did you find? What am I looking at for cost? I am on a very small budget.
My outback has 57k miles on it and already needs the front struts and rack replaced (diagnosed today at the Subaru dealership). The car has been making a whining noise in the engine and has been clunking when making turns for the past week. I have also noticed it hasn't been taking bumps as smoothly. They told me that both ends of the rack are leaking and both front struts are leaking. My husband did admit to hitting the curb on the driver side front tire pretty hard while making a u-turn about a month ago, but all other driving is pretty standard. Yes, we drive on dirt roads in the mountains a few times a year for hiking, but don't drive in a manner that I consider wrong. Did the u-turn incident cause this? (hard to believe that would affect both sides of the rack and struts).
View 2 RepliesIt has been a long time since I have owned a Ford truck and recently got a good deal on a 2004 Reg. Cab 4x4 (4.6L). It only has 58K miles and still looks, drives and smells like new. I have just noticed that the Rear end gears whine very loudly at 45 mph. It is quite everywhere else accept a little hum at 60mph. No other issues with the truck and perhaps, this is just normal on these newer fords.
View 7 RepliesI've been noticing more and more lately that while my trucks in 1st or maybe 2nd gear, say, slowly coasting around a parking lot for example, there's a whining noise coming from either the rearend or the tranny (cant tell which). It gets louder and more high pitched as I move faster then disappears as soon as the truck shifts gears..
Is this something serious like my transmission on its way out? From what I gather a lot of people seem to have a similar thing going on.. From what I can remember my truck has done this since I bought it, but lately (and maybe its just me) I seem to notice it more like maybe its getting louder..
When my truck sits all day and its cold out, my truck in 2WD will make a whining sound going down the road, sometimes its a grinding sound almost. Appears to be coming from the passenger side of the truck towards the front. Engaging 4x4 gets rid of the noise, and the noise will usually disappear after the truck has been running and warmed up. I've changed my ball joints recently and everything looked good and yes it had done it a time or two before hand. What causes this, and how do I fix it?
View 6 RepliesI noticed my engine whine more than it usual since the last few days. So, I took it to the dealership and have them check. They said that it is the idler pulley going bad. Just want to see some info on diagnosis.
View 6 RepliesIt happens when I accelerate from 10MPH up to about 70MPH and then is intermittent at higher speeds. The volume and pitch of the whine is constant the whole time I am accelerating. If I brake while accelerating the noise does not change. It is a very high pitched noise almost to the point of being out of range for the ear to hear. The noise is so high pitched that it is hard to determine exactly where it is coming from except I fell like it is behind me. Cornering doesn’t seem to make a difference. I hear it most when I start my commute getting onto the freeway, I have also heard it when I do stop and go while running errands.
View 11 RepliesI've got a clunk in the front end....replaced all the ball joints......checked the sway bar......checked the tie rods......can't find anything wrong...... Shocks go bad and clunk???
View 14 RepliesI've been living with a mild "clunk" or "bump" in the drive train when I would first begin to accelerate from a full complete stop. It would only happen after a complete stop. It almost felt like it could be normal, but it seemed to be getting worse over time.
At first I thought it was my transmission...but after some internet searching I found some threads talking about the slip yoke on the drive shaft being the cause. In that the slip yoke needs to be pulled apart and re-lubed.
Anyway, I thought I'd post and let eveyone know that after pulling the slip yoke and re-lubing with grease my issue is solved! The "clunk" is totally gone. 100% Smooth now. If has this issue I'd highly recommend re-lubing the slip yoke.
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On my 2004 F-150 SuperCrew, all I needed to do was remove the drive shaft at the rear differential (4 bolts, use 12mm 12 point socket or wrench). Then remove the FRONT clamp on the slip yoke boot. Then slide out the rear 1/2 of the drive shaft. Be sure to mark the drive shaft orientation with the rear differential flange and the slip yoke before you remove the drive shaft to ensure you put it back together correctly.
Re-lube the slip yoke, then slide it back together and reinstall the four bolts at the rear differential. Torque spec is 76 ft-lbs. I used Valvoline FORD-LINCOLN-MERCURY moly grease that I purchased at my local AutoZone. You'll also need to install a new band clamp around the rubber slip yoke boot. I got mine from AutoZone.
Here are some links I found with pictures showing how to do this. Both procedures below are on SuperDuties but its basically the same procedure. Just follow my specific details above for the 2004-2008 F-150
Slip joint regreasing
2004 F250 Slip Yoke Service
I got a horrible clunking/knocking in the front end of my pickup this morning, jerking the steering wheel like a flat tire, and after a couple miles it stopped..... bearing ???
View 7 RepliesI've read alot of info about the 4WD system on the F150's, and I'm having trouble diagnosing what might be going on with mine.
When I put my truck in 4HI (or 4LO), I get a popping sound that seems to come from the front middle/front drivers side when going at speeds around 20-25 and over. I don't experience any loss in traction (that I can tell) or power, but the popping is very loud and noticeable (passengers can hear it clearly).
My problem is a little different than most, as their issues with popping seem to happen when they are not in 4WD, where mine is only when in 4WD. I replaced the IWE solenoid today (wanted to anyway to get the updated casing/shroud) and the problem stayed. I also disconnected the vacuum lines at the solenoid and drove - no noise. I then kicked in 4WD on the switch, and the noise started, which leads me to think it is not vacuum related.
I am kind of lost as to what may be going on. I would think something where teeth broke, etc. would make noise all the time in 4WD, not intermittently or at certain speeds. The noise sounds almost like popcorn popping. I went up the same hill about a dozen times today, and it happened maybe 5-6 times. I don't hear it often (if at all) with speeds below 20 MPH. I can switch in and out of 2WD, 4HI, and 4LO all day with no issues, as well.
The only modifications to the front end have been a 2.5 inch leveling kit, and the only other issues I notice in the front end is a shaking when on the highway, that seems to go away after a while of driving at the same speed. I recently had a front end alignment, and the only thing the tech mentioned was that I will need ball joints in the next 6-8 months (but he said they weren't bad).
I have 2005 F150 XLT 5.4 litre engine and my battery light comes on after letting the truck run on idle or sometimes driving.
Last Saturday went out drove it heater on and radio on I smelled something coming from the heater kinda like burning wire smell didn't think anything of it no smoke from heater (indicating the core was bad) no lights on the cluster nothing; went into the bank let it run came back out my battery light on. Drove it home and while driving the light goes off.
Opened the hood and the smell was coming from the alternator. So I turned the truck off. Let it sit for an hour or so then I took my voltmeter to see if the battery was good. The battery was 12.4v with engine off. Checked my battery connection for corrosion or loose connections everything was tight there was some dust on the battery terminals so I brushed them off. I checked the battery cable that goes from positive to the alternator where it connects to the alternator with that nut it was good, clean and tight.
So I started the engine up and I can hear a whining noise from one of the pulleys. Let it idle for 2 minutes no battery light so I put my voltmeter on the battery it read 13.8v, so I turned on the A/C, head lights, radio and the heater tried again the voltage dropped down to 11.9v then the battery light came back on. Also through all this my battery gauge in the cluster always stays a half way mark doesn't drop or go high. Next with the engine turned off I took the belt off checked the pulleys the idler pulleys seem fine and the belt doesn't show any glazing but the alternator was hot almost like touching a hot exhaust manifold.
So for the last 3 days I have been trying to come up with how to resolve this issue obviously it could be the alternator going bad but the battery has never lost a charge yet I let the truck sit for these past 3 days and today I started the truck and it started right up I don't see any dimming lights except it has a whining noise and the battery light didn't come on immediately I let it run for 5-10 minutes before it came on; I even drove it around the block and the whining noise gets louder every time I step on the gas. To me it's either I need new alternator, tension pulley is bad or the idler pulleys are bad but they turn fine.
I noticed my engine whine more than it usual since the last few days. So, I took it to the dealership and have them check. They said that it is the idler pulley going bad.
View 4 Replies2008 F150 HD Payload package with 5.4L and 4spd auto, 61,000 miles.
Recently developed a whining sound coming from the transmission or somewhere else in the drivetrain. Does not sound like rear axle because it changes pitch with the change of gears. I proved this by disengaging OD while driving and the whine was higher pitched once the transmission down shifted. I did some other research and found a reference to the #9 bearing going bad in a 4R75 trasnmission in a Crown Victoria. I am going to fight for any repair to be covered by the powertrain warranty even though it just clicked 61,000. The dealer has done ALL maintenance on this truck since it was new (following severe duty recommendations).
My F150 has started whining while driving down the road or sitting still. It gets louder as the RPMs increase. I have also noticed that the transmission has started taking longer / slipping going into 2nd gear. I also smelled the transmission fluid and it has an "odd" odor to it. Could the transmission going out cause this noise?
Here is a vid of the noise : 05 f150 - YouTube....