Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Rear Differential Leak - Torque Rating On Bolt?
Feb 16, 2012
I am getting a little frustrated with a leak on my rear differential. The leak is on the front of differential rear-end just behind the four bolts you take off to remove the driveshaft. When you take the driveshaft out, there is a single bolt and the seal behind that is leaking. Here is my dilemma, I called my local ford dealership to find out what the torque rating on that bolt is so when I replace the seal I don't over-tighten. He told me there is no torque rating on it because I have to tighten, measure, tighten, measure the bolt. I was lost, I didn't have a clue what he was talking about.
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I got a new to me truck. It's a 2004 F150 Lariat 4x4 with the 5.4L. It's got a whine that I believe is coming from the rear differential. I'm going to change the fluid. My axle code is 26 which I believe is 3.73 non-limited slip. My owners manual says to use 75w-90 but I've seen a lot of posts on here that say to use 75w-140. Which is right or better? Also, is my rear differential the 9.75"?
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I have a 2007 ford f150 FX2 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip rear end. It has 68,000 miles and would like to change the rear differential oil. I have read and I know the oil it requires is 75w-140 plus the friction modifier. I would like to use mobile one. But was reading and the mobile one sites states that is already has friction modifiers. Is that ok to use on my truck? Using mobile one and not adding the extra modifiers?
Also some other brands say they have friction modifiers as well. Should I use mobile one and add extra friction modifier or just go with what it has already?
Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube 75W-140 LS contains special friction modifiers designed for limited slip-type differentials. In most applications, the addition of special LS (limited slip) additives is not required. For axles requiring the highest level of limited-slip performance, OEM specific LS additives can be added to this fluid.
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Alright so about a few weeks ago I started hearing what sounded like it was time for new brake pads. But the other day I turned the corner and my neighbor came up to me and said he heard my truck making a metal on metal type noise. So I said okay fml, took it to a local mechanic.
Called me today and said the brakes are fine but it's rear differential, he said they put the truck on the lift and used the stethoscope and heard a metal noise inside the rear differential and said that the fluid in there was very metallic.
I bought this truck about 7 months ago from the dealership. It has a total 90,000 miles on it. What does it look like this could cost me worst comes to worst?
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I have a 2006 fx4. And I am about it change the rear differential fluid. i want to know if i have a a limited slip differential.
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The rear differential center section on my wife's 02 Explorer has a slow drip that appears to be coming from the rear cover plate. I have worked on the solid 8.8 and 10.25 axles but never on a independent center section. Does the whole center section have to be lowered to change the seal on the cover? If so, do the axles have to be pulled to do so?
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New issue this week - truck developed a leak from the pinion seal. I'm not sure how much has leaked out, so I would like to top it off before limping to the dealership.
From the manual: "Motorcraft SAE 75W-140 Rear Synthetic Axle Lubricant" There is also a footnote for friction modifier required for a Trans-Loc rear diff. Assuming that footnote refers to an LSD and NOT the E-Locker, should be able to top off with just the fluid, correct?
I am a die hard for Truck fan but am really disappointed with the overall quality of the truck. I bought it new and now with 30k, I've had it in twice to have rotors turned, once for transmission getting stuck in 5th and needed a new molded leadframe assembly, and now the pinion leak. All fixed under warranty, however really unacceptable for a truck with this low of miles and an easy life.
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My 2007 3.6L 4Motion wagon was in for the 40k service. Everything was fine with the service, but they noticed that there was a small leak in the rear differential.
It's covered under warranty, but the troubling thing is that they can't figure out how to stop the leak. They are calling VW tech.
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Couldn't get the bolts out of the bushings so just bought new mounts. Was wondering to have the torque value for the u-bolts...
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I have a 96 outback which all of a sudden has no awd. The rear differential looks as though it has leaked some. I don't know if it has a bad axle, or if this loss of fluid is the culprit..... Where to start?
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What the torque spec is for the driveshaft to rear differential flange mounting bolts on the 99 F150 4x4 supercab?
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I have an 04 F150 5.4. Anyway drove truck about 200 miles this weekend. When I got back home, unloaded truck, noticed a fluid leak on the ground in the rear of truck. Upon further inspection, appears to be leaking from where the driveshaft meets the rear axle...looks like there's a gasket or yoke in the rear of the U joint? a little fluid dripped down and ran down to the lower portion of the "pumpkin" and made a quarter size oil patch in front of my house.
I would have definitely noticed such a stain before, since I park in the same spot at home and work every day. I drove to work today (14 miles) and looked under the truck for 15 minutes after I parked, don't see any drip, but do see remnants of a leak all over the front part of the rear axle. No way has any fluid leaked on the ground before, I 100% would have noticed a stain.
Thoughts on a fix for this? I had the clutch packs redone about 3 years ago under warranty, truck has 88k miles. No shudder when I drive from the rear axle, I'm assuming there is fluid in the rear gears, as a substantial leak I for sure would have seen on the ground. leak is 100% NOT coming from the seal on the rear axle, but in front of it where the shaft meets the axle. Possible that driving on the highway at 75MPH for 2 hours straight caused this leak, as my drive to work is mostly stop and go, both ways.
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Our 2010 AWD RX350 developed a rear differential oil leak (passenger side) at the drive shaft lip seal. Has 80,000.
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Searched with no results. What is the correct bolt torque for transmission pan bolts on a 2012 F350 6.7L?
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Torque on the differential cover bolts, 2016 F250?
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I have replaced my oil pan gasket with a felpro. I had oil leaking from the top of the oil filter. This oil pan has the filter going through it. I have replace the oil cooler cap and gasket and finally replaced the oil pan gasket. It worked. I do no have any leaks from above the filter. But I am leaking from inside the bell housing. It is still coming from the oil pan and nowhere else. (I have dye in the oils and can see it leaking)
SO I went back to the Haynes to recheck the torque settings. I originally torqued all of the bolts for 89 inch lbs Per the haynes manual)
here is what it says:
oil pan bolts:
step one (to engine and front cover)............89 in-lbs
step two (to rear cover).............................18 foot-lbs
this step two is not too clear.....
which bolts are the bolts to the rear cover??
what I think this means is the 2 long rear bolts that go to the rear cover should be 18 foot-lbs. in the haynes manual they are bolts 13 and 14.
Is this right.....I started to do this but then stopped becuase I felt I was going to strip the bolts.
This kind of makes sense due to there are no other bolts in the middle of the rear of the pan to the block.
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Looking for ccess to a '13 Toyota Factory Service Manual (FSM) that states the torque specification for the oil pan drain bolt on the 3.5L?
If the '13 FSM is similar to the '05 FSM, the torque value will appear on the diagram that shows the oil pan assembly. I believe the spec is 30 ft-lbs (with a new washer), but I want to confirm.
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I seem to have oil leaking from my front differential. The oil seem to be leaking from where the axle comes out of the differential.
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Just doing the bro in law's tie rod ends and we are wondering what torque we should be putting on the castle nuts? They are greasable Moogs...
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My 2004 Ford F150 only has 20,000 miles on it but makes a shudder from stop turning left or right. I asked the dealership about it and was told that it was likely the clutch pack in the rear differential sticking. I was told I could try changing out the fluid while also adding a few ounces of some special lubricant. But, they said it wasn't a guaranteed fix. Apparently, they have tried this fluid change and drive the vehicle in figure 8's trying to get the lubricant between the plates. They also said that this was a known problem to Ford. Lastly, I was told it wouldn't hurt anything to keep driving it. I checked some other online forums for Ford F150 owners and this does seem to be a recurring problem. I'm thinking about having the clutch pack replaced but obviously hate to spend the money if I don't have to.
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It may sound silly, but can I lift my 04 explorer by the rear differential to change brakes etc? I have NOT had a Independant suspension vehicle prior to this and dont want to mess up anything. If I cannot use that point to lift it, where is a point to lift it using a floor jack so I can service the rear of the vehicle after I place it on jack stands?
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