My wife has a 08 F-150 LIMITED and at random times gets a raw fuel smell through the air conditioner ducts. It will happen after we fill it up and it will happen @ a 1/2 tank. No smell under the hood and no visible leaks from anywhere. Pretty important issue to me.
View 8 RepliesIn my 2010, when I use the A/C, the air comes out cool and dry. When I turn the A/C off, and just run the vent, I notice a few things.
1) The air warms up (duh!)
2) The air is more humid (duh!)
3) The air has a mustier, stale smell to it.
When I just run the vent (and don't run A/C prior) I don't notice the odor, but if I then run the A/C for a bit and then run the vent, the musty/stale smell returns.
I've noticed it and tend to ignore it. My wife noticed it and pointed it out to me, and it prevents me from cycling the A/C off as the odor fills the cabin.
I've noticed a strange problem that makes it next to impossible for me to use his truck unless the vents are off or I have both windows all the way down with it on. It smells like it has a fuel leak of some sort and in the cab of the truck it smells bad while driving and gets worse when sitting still, to me it smells like gas and when I open the hood on his truck after idling about 5 minutes or so I can smell it in there so i know its somewhere under the hood but for the life of me I can't see anywhere where its leaking or anything like that but I can smell it all darn day. His truck is an 05 F-150 with a 5.4 and I'd like to figure this out before it becomes a real big problem. I've worked with fuel injected cars and trucks before but I have little knowledge of the mod engines at all. And he is still driving it like that and I just wanna make sure it either is not gas or is just something simple I'm overlooking.
View 12 RepliesOk new issue that started yesterday only get it at idle. Runs great above idle no real power loss or change in fuel econ. Haven't really had a chance to test much. I was thinking maybe a injector issue but I don't know
View 14 RepliesAt random times already happened twice, when i try to close my sunroof it doesn't close all the way. Right when its about to close it just opens back up. Obviously when i try to take it to the dealer it works fine. I was able to capture a video on my phone explaining and showing whats happening...
View 14 RepliesI've been having trouble diagnosing a loss of throttle at seemingly random times. Sometimes while driving, especially after driving for more than 20 minutes or so, I will experience a hesitation while on the gas pedal as if I have taken my foot off the gas. It makes it impossible to drive until I pull over and unplug my TPS and then I can drive fine in manual mode. Then the next day I can plug my TPS back in, drive around fine for a bit before the hesitation happens again and then I have to unplug the TPS again and drive in manual mode. It doesn't make sense to me why it takes a bit for this hesitation to begin and why unplugging the TPS and driving in manual mode seems to fix the problem.
I've recently replaced my crankshaft position sensor, idle air control valve, purge control valve solenoid and TPS. When I recently placed the TPS, the hesitation problem and another problem I've been having recently, a high idle in park, seemed to be fixed, but then the hesitation problem popped up again. When I unplug the TPS, the hesitation disappears and I can drive fine but the high idle in park problem is back! I'm suspecting some sort of wiring problem to the TPS. I just went on a 100 mile camping trip in manual mode no problem, but I can't be driving around forever with no TPS.
2004 Explorer 4WD XLT 4.0 6cyl - Mileage is 117,000 - Check Engine Light came on - Pulled the code of PO193. Had the Fuel Pressure Sensor changed, Plugs and wires and check engine light is still on after being re-set several times? Car is stalling at times when going from park to drive - It seems to idle ok in park but, when in drive at a red light, the tac will bounce a little and it seems like it's not getting enough fuel and will stall out at anytime. Is there a fuel filer that can be changed? Should I have the fuel injection checked and cleaned along with a fuel filter. Seems to be getting poor gas mileage.
View 1 Replies07 Avolon Limited? My A/C goes off at times and it sometimes say Check Air Conditioner on the "Command Center." I took it to Toyota and they replaced the A/C relay for $80.00 and it still does the same thing. The Air is cold coming out of the vents until this happens. Toyota says the next thing is to replace the A/C surpintine belt and next the compressor. The replacement game gets very expensive when it doesn't fix maters!
View 5 RepliesI have an 05 Lariat with 145k miles on it. About a month ago I had a misfire code on one cylinder. Since then it's gone from once every couple of days, various cylinders. To now every day. I've had to continue driving it but the last few days it's gotten bad and I hope I didn't do any more damage(cats) but I didn't have a whole lot of choice. I've read every thread I can find and haven't found an exact match. It seems to be worse first thing in the morning, it will be down on power for a few seconds then clear up. It may not return for another 10 or 15 minutes and then cough a little and clear up.
Sometimes it will start at the beginning of a hill and not clear up until I'm back on flat, sometimes it will lose power at the top. There is zero predictability to it. I have had codes on almost every cylinder, but no single one has dominated the problem. Twice when it has been real bad I have also gotten a lean code 0174. It had new Motorcraft plugs 25000 miles ago and has run fine until recently. The ticking isn't too bad but I think I'm going to try thicker oil for the summer. It's been a while since I did the fuel filter and since it probably isn't a bad idea I'm going to do that today.
I have a 2008 Ford Lariat F150 with 53k miles. The transmission seems like it slips at times. Here's the scenario. When I take off from a standstill and going through the gears at a normal acceleration pace, say I momentarily lighten the acceleration pace then try to resume. At that point, the transmission seems to slip momentarily, then bumps back into the pull mode. It feels like there is slack in the drivetrain until it re-engages, or like the lockup torque converter momentarily releases until the computer has time to react to the accelerator positioner calling for more. One guy said the transmission is, at that point, between two gears... either trying to decide to downshift or to upshift, but you can feel the surge in rpm momentarily until it decides ... then bump and your off and running again. If I push the O/D button, it stops doing it. What I can do? Because the dealer can't seem to get it to act up when they test drive it. It does it fairly regularly on me though.
View 4 RepliesMy son drives a 2003 Ford Focus with 183,000 miles on it. At random times when he starts the car, the engine runs very rough at idle speed but when he drives away, it runs fine until he slows for a stop sign/turn, etc. and the engine is at idle speed again. When this happens, the engine runs so roughly, that he loses vacuum to the brakes and his brakes stiffen dangerously. The car may not do this at all for a couple of weeks of driving, and when it doesn't do it, it runs beautifully.
Also, it only runs like this if it does it from start-up; it never idles roughly in the middle of a drive in which the car started normally. I have changed the spark plugs and wires, PCV valve, fuel filter, and air filter, but it still goes through this about once a week. I bought the car used just a few months ago and it had just had the valve cover gasket changed because the valve cover was leaking.
Recently, my Explorer will sound like a cessna first thing in the morning, and then at random times through out the day. Then, the other day, the temp spiked on my wife. She pulled over, and let it sit for a bit, started it back up, and haven't had a problem since with temp. We only hear the sound on acceleration, and I have noticed that my F250 does it sometimes also, but not to the same extent. Is this normal, or a sign that the fan clutch is bad?
View 8 RepliesIt started sputtering at random times a few days ago and the check engine light came on. The two codes are p0401 (blocked egr system) and p0402 (egr valve stuck open). It seems to do it most when it's cold but some days it'll do it non stop.
View 1 RepliesMy air conditioner gives off a bad smell; my son, who lives distant and is a mechanic, told me that if the drain gets plugged that will cause a moldy (or other) buildup. When he visited, he said he could not locate the drain hose. Where can I find out where the drain hose is? Then I could probably unplug it myself. It is a 2007 HHR SW.
View 3 RepliesFor the last little while I have been having an issue with the 4wd in my 2006 F-150 with about 93k on the clock. Sometimes it would engage when I switched to 4H/4L and other times it wouldn't. A friend of mine works at a Ford dealership and said it could be the vacuum solenoid on the firewall going bad. So I bought a new one and as I removed the old one, noticed debris in one of the inlets. So I cleaned that out and neither old or new solved the problem. Then I went through ALL of the vacuum lines and found some debris in parts of them....
Cleaned them all out and still nothing. Then I got to thinking it may be the ESOF motor on the transfer case. Checked to make sure there was power to the plug, which there was. Removed the motor and turned switch, and the motor seemed to be working. Reattached the motor and the 4wd would engage/disengage without problem. Pretty much everywhere I went I would check it and it worked fine . Then all of a sudden it didn't . So I took the motor off, turned selector and it worked fine. No issues yesterday at all.
So, I am not sure if it is the motor going bad or not. Could there be a contact problem? I talked to a mechanic this morning and he told me to drive around with it in 4H for a while because more times than not it doesn't get used enough. I'm just not sure what could be going on...am I missing something?
I have 2006 single cab stx and the little orange airbag guy below the speedometer has been on over a year and a half and he always flashes a code 51, but I've never worried about it.
About a month ago I started occasionally getting the 5 beeps 5 times, and now it does it more frequently but not every time. The Passenger Airbag Light above the radio works properly. It comes on when I start the truck and then goes off. When I put weight on the seat (usually my Jack Russell who only weighs 14lbs) it turns on and stays, and if the seat belt is buckled with no weight it also stays on. This is proper function correct ?
I've tried things I've read from replacing or cleaning up the crash sensor in front of the radiator, even cleaned the connections under the seats with contact cleaner, pulled fuses and none of them are blown. Are the code 51 and the beeping alarm somehow connected ?
So our 2006 f150 fx4 has been having an issue with stiff steering... at times like it doesn't have power steering at all.
We recently had the lower ball joints on both sides replaced. Before that the upper control arm on the drivers side was also replaced.
There are days that it is better... other times not so much.
3 months ago.. I had my fan clutch replaced, along with alternator.. a few coils.. a belt and an oil change. While installing fan clutch the shop accidentally poked a hole in radiator so they got a new one ( After Market) and replaced it. After leaving the shop, I noticed the fan clutch was not rotating smoothly, it had a considerable wobble to it, so took it back and it was replaced..new one did same things.. so it was replaced again. Truck seemed fine after the 3rd one was installed, and then after a a 3 hour drive.. i pulled over to gas station, and while truck was at idle in park.. it started to run hot. Raised hood, there was no visible coolant in holding tank on side, so after a while.. i took cap off and as I released it... coolant started to bubble back into holding tank. I then started truck up.. it was fine rest of way home.
Over next few weeks, this happened 4 times.. ac will be on, truck sitting still at red light etc.. and truck will start to run hot. So i had a new thermostat installed, and also a new water pump. Took it to a guy who runs a shop i know and also had system vacuumed. ( it was burped prior). Thought we had it fixed.. NOPE.. did it again yesterday. So truck has had new fan clutch, new thermostat, new water pump, new coolant, new radiator.. and it still only runs hot if at idle.. and it wont do it all the time.. but about once a week.. it will... and it will go over to red.. and ill shut it off and after about 10 min.. turn back on and continue on my way.. What I noticed..and this may be a key piece of info to someone who may know what is going on... it seems that the times it has ran hot.. while at idle the fan clutch was off.. and once i reved engine up to 2500-3000 rpms.. I got clutch to engage and bam !!.. truck comes back down to normal temp.. midway on gauge .. AS long as I am driving down road.. no problems.
** Also as a sidenote.. my engine does have a engine coolant temp sensor on it. Part # DY 1025 motorcraft. On some vehicles.. this part tells the fan when to turn on.. not sure if it does on mine. Originally , I took truck in bc fan clutch was staying engaged to much..meaning fan was on all the time. So.. maybe it could be the sensor ?... now all the new fan clutchs that have been put on do not come on like they are suppose to.. work right sometimes.. other times.. truck has to be at high rpms to get it to engage.. not working right all the time at low rpms.
Are their fan clutch relays ?.. I have an electric fan clutch.. This seems to me that this is a fan clutch issue.. and this is the 3rd one on the truck.. came from autozone.. it is the correct one for truck and has a warranty. Mechanic now wants to try going with a ford fan clutch by motorcraft.. 2007 F150 5.4 V8 ...
I have a 2005 F-150 W/ 5.4 triton, and am having multiple codes. They are:
P0172- System to rich(Bank 1),
P0174- System to lean(Bank 2),
P0300- Random misfire,
P0303- Cylinder # 3 misfire detected,
P0304- Cylinder #4 msfire detected.
Friend has a 2006 with the 4.6 motor. From time to time he gets a random misfire code ( I think its 0316).. He claims it will only do it when the gas tank is less that half full. I don't see any correlation between fuel level and the code. I am going to check fuel trim values, etc, when the code is set, this weekend.... all I can assume is low fuel pressure which sets the code... Any problem with the pressure module or fuel pump / discharge hose that is related to low level in the tank ?
View 3 Replies2006 f-150 with a 4.6L. Its got 175k on the clock and ran like a sewing machine despite little maintenance other than oil changes. Recently it started running like crap; no power and missing so he borrowed a scanner and it was giving multiple codes. Here's what we have done so far, not necessarily in this order :
1.Checked for vac leaks with carb cleaner (this can be tough as engine runs crappy and hard to detect minor changes in rpms while your under the hood) no leaks detected yet
2. Changed the plugs, all looked good except for one which was heavily fouled and the electrode ate away mostly, I wasnt there and he doesnt remember which one but have a suspicion, more on that in a min
3. Changed most of the COPs and checked them all with a spark tester, all are firing.
4.Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner
5. Checked back pressure on the exhaust by removing an upstream o2 sensor and holding a plastic fitting hooked to a pressure gage long enough to get a reading, about 1 lb idling to maybe 2 max when engine is reved, gage is not the best and fluctuates a 1/2 lb or so. Exhaust does not smell of rotten eggs.
6. Changed the fuel filter, it was terrible
7. Ran a bottle of Seafoam in the tank
8. Took the throttle body and egr valve off and checked for carbon stoppage, the holes in the egr were not blocked
9. checked the PVC valve and line and both elbows
7. checked the injector connectors with a noid light for signal, they all flash, checked the injectors them selves with a multimeter set for ohms, all about from 13.5-14.5. This should mean they arent fried but could they still be stopped up? They all sound like they are pumping when you listen with a mechanics stethoscope
9. Changed all 4 o2 sensors as this had never been done anyway
10. Compression check on cylinders, all within 10% of each other at about 180 lbs. When we pulled the plugs they all looked good except for # 7 which was heavily fouled ( I suspect the same on the original plugs) and again with a bad electrode, the part coming out of the porcelin. Intrestingly, this was an autolite plug, the rest were motorcraft, I hoped this was somehow just a bad plug but no change with a new MC plug
11. Changed the injector on #7
The scanner reads lean condition on banks 1 and 2 and random misfires on #4 and # 7 still. Per a troubleshooting tip online, we sprayed some carb cleaner in a small vac line coming off the manifold to induce a rich condition and the scanner showed the o2 sensors go to .900 which is what they are supposed to do per the guide. This means they are functioning correctly and a bonafide lean condition exists. I am leaning towards a vacuum leak around the plastic manifold under the aluminum one, maybe the gaskets but would like to rule out the egr valve, could it be the culprit?
I have even considered the possibility that the PCM is bad, though not likely. I have read to detect a vac leak you can hook the scanner up and spray the carb cleaner around on the manifold and lines with the scanner hooked up watching the scanner PID for the o2 sensors and when they detect the cleaner, they will hit that .800-1.0 meaning the engine sucked the cleaner in and you have found your leak. The exhaust smells rich. If it is a vac leak, you would think it should be a massive leak and not hard to detect, as crappy as the truck runs. I have searched the forums for days and exhausted about all I know to do.
Most important note: early on I suspected low fuel pressure as a possibility; with no schrader valve on the fuel rail and no easy spot to T into the system, we were scratching our heads how were gonna measure psi but the scanner reads absolute fuel rail pressure, gives about 40-43 psi. I hope the scanner is telling us what we need to know there, would prefer a mechanical gauge on the rail!