Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Rattling Noise When Trailer Hooked Up
Aug 29, 2012
I have a 2007 f-150 fx4 supercab with the 5.4, it has about 37,500 miles on it. Yesterday I hooked up my trailer with no more than 800lbs of lawn mowers and as soon as I was on my way I heard a terrible rattling noise coming from the truck or the trailer. I unhooked the trailer and drove up and down the driveway and heard no noise, hooked the trailer back up and right away the rattle came back. At this point I hooked up the trailer to my dad's truck hoping it was the trailer and I drove it around the neighborhood hoping to hear the noise. No noise. So I hooked back up to my truck to drive home and the noise came right back and was even worse.
The noise was a rattling noise which I would say sounded like bb's rattling around in something, which had/has my thinking catalytic converter but no check engine light or anything has popped up. Also the noise doesn't happen unless the truck is hooked up to my little trailer with weight that I consider insignificant. So my question is could it be the catalytic converter and the the light load causes it and it will eventually occur all the time, or could it be something else that I'm not considering. I'm going to try to get it into a local mechanic but with it being the end of the month he's probably swamped with inspections. I don't want to drive it until I know what it is because I don't want to do damage to the truck.
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Have a 2001 f350 that runs great until you hook a trailer to it. Once a trailer is hooked to it and you are on a slight incline (and I mean slight) it will not go into D.. It's like it gets stuck in N.. Have to jam it into 1 to get it to go.. Once level again it will go back to D... Truck has 177k miles on it.
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I have a 2004 ford f150 5.4l v8 triton lariat and while at idle it has a ticking noise like this video
YouTube...
However I also have a rattling noise when decelerating at around 2000 rpms that sounds like a loose chain in a box. Not sure if its VCT sensor or cam phasers ...
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Are there any common trim peices etc that are known to come loose and cause a rattle in our trucks? My truck has always rode fairly quiet/tight, recently with the rough roads & stiffer tires plus cold weather I have noticed alot of little rattles which are hard to narrow down sometimes. They drive me insane. So far I have noticed the rear RH suicide door was one culprit which I quietened by a couple wraps of tape around the striker, but I can hear more from possibly under the dash & rear of cab.
Also I swore that my box was coming lose, if I went over railroad tracks I could hear a hollow rattling noise that seemed to be coming from back there, I looked and all the mounts are fine & seem quite solid, but when an 05 similar to mine passed me on the street one day and I noticed his box shaking alot more than the average truck, then looked at my own in the sideview mirror and it appeared to be bouncing around more than I think it should. I am kind of OCD about rattles & squeaks and cant sleep until I shut them up
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My 2004 F-150 5.4 has a rattling noise coming from the passenger side of the engine when at operating temperature. The cam phasers and all related parts have been replaced. The reason I was prompted to change the phasers, chains, guides and tensioners was due to the engine stopping on me as I returned home from an errand. The engine had already shown signs of needing the phasers replaced.
The engine runs very smooth while warming up. Vehicle lacks power and has a rough idle after warm. Took the truck to a local mechanic, in the process of making a diagnosis, he performed a compression test. Cylinder 3 psi was much lower than the other 7 cylinders, the mechanic recommended replacing the engine (possible bent valve).
I have a Haynes manual, have searched youtube and checked this and similar forums, I have yet to find instructions on the removal of the head from the block.
(2004 Ford F-150 5.4 3v)....
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2005 F150 Lariat package with 63,000 miles. Ok... thought I had a cat crawl up in thew engine to stay warm...but alas no cat found. Got off of work and headed home, clicking/rattling noise from the front passenger side dash, then a whirring noise followed shortly there after by a dull thud (hence the cat scenario). Happened twice on the way home (~15miles) ...
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I have a 2004 f150 fx4. My running lights on my trailer will not come on. Brake lights work, turn signals work, back up lights work. Had my boat mechanic check the trailer and that showed that the lights work fine. So I started checking fuses on the truck. Fuses all looked good. Then I went into the Auxiliary Relay Box in the engine compartment on the left fender. In the spot marked Trailer Tow Park Lamps (R201), theres no relay. R202 is for the Fog lamps, same relay. I pulled the Fog Lamp relay out and went to put in R201 for Trailer lamps, but there's no contacts in the R201 slots. The relay goes in with ease and just falls out. No contacts. Whats going on?
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I recently purchased a 2006, 4x4, low mileage and when towing a trailer the truck develops vibration right at 52 mph. Dealer has not found the problem.
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Over the past year, I have had an issue with the front end shaking on my F150.
I have a 5 x 10 trailer. Weight capacity is roughly 2200 pounds. I hook up my trailer empty and head down the road. When I hit about 55 mph and above, the front end starts bouncing/shaking/vibrating.
Now I put a load on the trailer. Get going down the road. Hit those same speeds - no shaking/bouncing/vibrating. I have had a mechanic ride with me to check it out. First place to start, he told me, jack it up and see if anything is loose. I have not done that yet.
He has the same opinion as I do. This makes no sense. No load, shakes. Load, no shakes. You would think it would be opposite.
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2007 F-150 4x4 reg cab
Trying to get my trailer plug to work. Don't have a owners manual. Looked in fuse box, fuses 104 , 114 , 107 and 118 are missing?
Need to know what they are? Also look for fuse numbers that have anything to do with trailer plug.
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First issue started a few weeks ago. When turning left at a speed > 20mph or when turning wheel quickly I get a rattling noise, which is more prominent with the driver window down, so it sounds like it comes from the driver side front wheel, but not quite sure. It is fairly loud as I have had pedestrians look at my car when turning because they can hear the rattle.
Second issue started this morning but has persisted every time since. When the car is cooling down, we get that whirring noise, which I presume is thr coolant pump. That noise also happens now when I enter the car, and it is accompanied by a knocking noise as if somebody is hitting the outside of the car repeatedly. This is quite unnerving as it sounds like something is hitting the bodywork of the car. It stops immediately when the normal whirring stops.
I had the steering and water pump recall done in november last year, could this be related to that? Forgot ti add the car has done 49000miles....
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I took it to the dealer and they blamed the trailer. I told them that I have pulled two different trailers and it did it with both. Then he said that the trailer was not heavy enough to weigh down the springs. So now I not suppose to tow an empty trailer? Also my father in law has pulled the trailer with his Z71 with no shake and the other belongs to a neighbor with a 98 F150 with no shake. The vibration only starts above 45mph. Any clue as to what could be causing this?
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After returning from about a 5 hr roadtrip, I backed my snowmobile trailer up my steep driveway in 4wd and the truck did not want to move after that. The truck is an '05 SCREW 4X4 5.4L with about 110,000 miles on it. Trailer is probably around 1,000 lbs with the snowmobile on it.
The driveway is steep and short. That combined with the 90 degree turn to get in and some uneven terrain and part the path onto slippery frozen grass makes for a bit of a rodeo trip backwards up the driveway with a trailer.
Anyway, after getting the trailer up into it's place, I unhooked it, switched back to 2wd, disengaged the parking brake, and put it into drive. The truck didn't roll which was weird as it's now in drive pointed down hill. With about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle, it crept forward. Again, this is down hill. I got out walked around the truck (make sure I didn't forget to unhook anything etc) and tried again. Same thing.
Once I made it to the fairly level street, the truck would still only move, barely, with about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle. Now it was like some of the wheels were free but at least one had to break traction with the pavement to allow the truck to move forward. So with constant pressure on the accelerator it would chirp one or more of the wheels a bit at a time as it crept forward. Acted like it was in some sort of imaginary tug of war. After about 40' of driving it worked itself out. I've driven about 10 miles since and seems just fine.
I'm concerned because I plan to do this frequently with this trailer and in the summer frequently with a boat weighing about 3,500 lbs although shouldn't need 4wd in the summer.
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I have a 07 with the 5.4 engine and it has started to jerk or miss sometimes when I'm pulling my trailer. I'm thinking about changing the plugs, but the dealership is telling me they will break off in the head.
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My truck trailer connection has no power to the + pin, called the Trailer Tow Battery Charge. I traced back to the fuses and relays and discovered the relay missing. Unbelievably Ford is having a hard time with this relay. They don't seem to be sure which one it is. My owner's manual says it is a Full ISO relay. But Ford doesn't like that description.
What can I use there? Is there any after market relay available that would fit. Napa said they don't have anything listed, and O'Reilly and Autozone look at me with a stupid expression. I also need one for the starter relay. Mine was replaced with a anti theft device that has a remote control. I want that removed so I need the realy.
All the relays appear to be the same. I plugged in the blower motor relay in the trailer tow charge position and got power to the + pin. But I need the blower motor. The Ford guy said that it might be the right one, but he couldn't be certain and if I plug it in and it doesn't work it's my loss.
This is for the 2006 F-150, 4.6l truck.
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My trailers lights aren't working at all- so frustrated right now!! I've checked all the fuses and those are good, I've got no power back to the 7 pin connector...
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I'm the proud owner of a 2008 RX350 with low mileage (40,000 miles - US model). I purchased it a year ago and I haven't had any mechanical problems. However it's been 3 months that I have this rattle from the rear, especially when driving over uneven pavement.
I had the vehicle checked by a local mechanic but he couldn't find any loose part at the exception of the spare tire plastic cover underneath that looked a bit flimsy but he couldn't tell for sure... I even did an oil change at a Lexus dealership and they didn't find anything when they hoisted the car but they didn't look hard either....
I've disconnected the tonneau cover and put the release latches, for the tonneau, in the lock position (towards the front of the vehicle). That didn't solve the problem. Lastly I removed my plate cover and still didn't resolve it.
Anyway, the rattle seems to come from somewhere underneath, around the trunk area and is loud when you hit bump or drive on uneven road and it's driving me crazy!
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Having issue with moon roof ratling? Mine does when I have the moon roof open all the way. It is kind of irritating.
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Hard to describe sound, but it only happens under load. It happens at any speed, but more predominently at higher speeds. When I lift off the gas it stops. I can keep it going up hill since I'm maintaining speed rather than accelerating over the limit. The other day I heard another F150 beside me making the same noise going up a hill.
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I have a 2006 F150 5.4 3v rattling and shaking excessively. I have installed two new cam phasers, two vct solinoids, two vct housings, flushed oil and installed motor craft oil and filter. This never happens if bank two vct is unplugged or in open loop. Monitioring vct's on ids only bank two is erratic. Also when I had vct housing off I blew regulated air through oil passage seems free.
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As the title says I have noticed a strange sound on start up in the last couple weeks that sounds like rocks in a can. Noticed only at start up and then stops but I have noticed it slightly infrequently when driving. Truck runs great, no noticeable problems. I have looked under the hood and suspension to see if something maybe hung up and didn't see anything. Thought this might be the problem since I was following a plumbing truck that had plastic buckets flying out the back and I hit one!
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