I have a 2004 ford f150 5.4l v8 triton lariat and while at idle it has a ticking noise like this video
YouTube...
However I also have a rattling noise when decelerating at around 2000 rpms that sounds like a loose chain in a box. Not sure if its VCT sensor or cam phasers ...
I recently got Gibson Performance Headers on my 2006 Ford F150. And when you cold start it or just start it period it has a odd ticking noise on the passenger side.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2008 Ford F150 that ticks loudly at hot idle. Took it to the dealer and hear is what the service manager has said so far:
"So far we checked codes, all was ok. tested oil pressure and found it met the spec of 15 PSI, removed valve covers. Found the CVT solonoids are the newer style. Inspected the camshafts, cam phasers, rocker arms, cam chains. All check ok at this time. Not finding any true "root of concern" I'm trying to get approval for engine replacement in hopes that replacement is quieter. Approval is difficult without any true failure...still working on it though."
If this is not the cam phasers, what else could it possibly be?
Here is my engine noise: [URL] .....
Getting these codes what they mean or need to do ..to get rid of them...p0022, p0171, p0174, p0183, p0340, p0300, p0316, p2006 did timing n plugs fuel filter n gas filter getting very bad gas mileage it runs good but here a ticking in motor at idle and more as u accelerate, running rough....
View 7 RepliesNoticed a ticking noise when at idle? I had another touareg owner ask me if I noticed it and I thought maybe it was just mine up until that point. 41k oil changed religiously with casterol synthetic...
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 F 150 5.4L and i just changed the front rotors, pads, and calipers. Because the passengers side caliper had locked and the rims was really hot and i knew it was the caliper so i changed both the driver and passenger side calipers and hoses. A month before this i had changed the pad and rotors but after the caliper locked it put grooves in the rotor and damaged the pad but the pads and rotors i bought have a lifetime warranty so i got a brand new set and changed them while replacing the calipers.
After installing everything i bleed the front brakes. But did not bleed the rear and i am wondering since i did not do the rear even though i did not touch them it is causing the front to make a ticking sound the whole time i am driving and it is starting to annoy me even though it has only been 4 days since i did the front brake job. I put Duralast rotors and Duralast Gold Cmax Premium Ceramics Pads. What is causing this ticking.
07 f150 screw 5.4 104+ miles, loss of power and ticking noise (sounds like no oil)on passengers side, no engine light, no codes, ford dealer changed coil packs and plugs, inspected valve gear on passengers side and nothing seemed out of spec, no broken springs, followers, lifters, manifolds on both sides have been replaced very recently.
The ticking noise began about a week after an oil change, truck runs fine but no power/sluggish. exhaust is magnaflow side exit and seems to be louder inside the cab than usual or could be just me.
Truck had a miss that i was trying to find prior to oil change and ticking noise. it ran well for a week with the tick before (and miss) the loss of power which started after a 30 min drive under load up hill. it almost felt and sounded as if the muffler was dragging on the road for about 100 feet, ran fine for two miles until it was shutdown. restarted fine but flat when you get into it.
Clogged cat/cats; internal damage to muffler, oil issue even tho the gauge reads fine.
I have a question about my 2007 F150 4x4 with the 5.4L. It has a ticking noise sound coming from somewhere around the motor, but it's not there till the motor has warmed up. It almost sounds like a exhaust leak, but I'm not sure. What it might be, or what to look for?
View 11 RepliesGetting code P0022, which is over retarded cam position, drivers side bank. My 2004 F150 has the 5.8 triton. I have replaced all cam phasers and tensioner a as well as the timing chains. I have also replaced both VCT solenoids. Before I was getting codes for both banks, now just the code mentioned above with a slight ticking as well. My question is this... What am I not seeing? What could be causing this?? Would it be beneficial t get the lockout kit for the phasers to always keep them open?? Seems to stall a little at very low RPM like when you are off-road.
View 1 Repliesthe F150 of my brother has the follow diseases:rough running ticking noises, low mileage per gallone, blue smoke out of exhaust after start, i have ordered the cam phaser, hope, that will be the reason. But today, my brother means, i have to do a test drive, because the truck has no power. and really, feels like missing of one or two cylinders. Very bad performance. Is it possible, that the reason are the phasers?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 f-150 fx4 supercab with the 5.4, it has about 37,500 miles on it. Yesterday I hooked up my trailer with no more than 800lbs of lawn mowers and as soon as I was on my way I heard a terrible rattling noise coming from the truck or the trailer. I unhooked the trailer and drove up and down the driveway and heard no noise, hooked the trailer back up and right away the rattle came back. At this point I hooked up the trailer to my dad's truck hoping it was the trailer and I drove it around the neighborhood hoping to hear the noise. No noise. So I hooked back up to my truck to drive home and the noise came right back and was even worse.
The noise was a rattling noise which I would say sounded like bb's rattling around in something, which had/has my thinking catalytic converter but no check engine light or anything has popped up. Also the noise doesn't happen unless the truck is hooked up to my little trailer with weight that I consider insignificant. So my question is could it be the catalytic converter and the the light load causes it and it will eventually occur all the time, or could it be something else that I'm not considering. I'm going to try to get it into a local mechanic but with it being the end of the month he's probably swamped with inspections. I don't want to drive it until I know what it is because I don't want to do damage to the truck.
Are there any common trim peices etc that are known to come loose and cause a rattle in our trucks? My truck has always rode fairly quiet/tight, recently with the rough roads & stiffer tires plus cold weather I have noticed alot of little rattles which are hard to narrow down sometimes. They drive me insane. So far I have noticed the rear RH suicide door was one culprit which I quietened by a couple wraps of tape around the striker, but I can hear more from possibly under the dash & rear of cab.
Also I swore that my box was coming lose, if I went over railroad tracks I could hear a hollow rattling noise that seemed to be coming from back there, I looked and all the mounts are fine & seem quite solid, but when an 05 similar to mine passed me on the street one day and I noticed his box shaking alot more than the average truck, then looked at my own in the sideview mirror and it appeared to be bouncing around more than I think it should. I am kind of OCD about rattles & squeaks and cant sleep until I shut them up
Once winter arrived I started having problems with my truck running like crap after warm up. However, I noted that during initial start up and lasting till the engine got to its Normal Operating Temp, it would run like a BAOH! Once the engine reached Normal Temp, it would fall flat on its face if I got into it down the road. I wasn't getting any codes, so knowing about the EPU and timing; I opted to change out the O2 sensors. Bought all 4 sensors, Bosh, installed them and within a day got a P0420, P0303; known as Cat system efficiency below threshold and a #3 misfire. (side not all plugs, timing chains, COP's, Phasers, cam positioning sensors have been replaced within the past 18 months) So I decided to take the COP off of the #3 cyl and swapped it with the #5 cylinder; still getting a misfire on #3.
Didn't pull the plugs, knowing they have less than 50,000 miles on them. The problem lasted about a week, off and on with heavy acceleration. Then last Saturday I was driving around town, came to a stop light and the engine shook hard while stopped, missing for a few seconds but not sending a code. Upon acceleration I noticed a loud ticking coming from the right (passenger) bank. The truck practically fell on its face through 3,000 rpm's. No power, and still no codes. I got home, pulled out my steth and listened. I got a loud ticking on the cover at the #3 and #4 Cyl. I know ya'll acclaim ticking to the phasers but it's a totally different sound. Its not coming from the front of the cover as it did when my phasers went out. This is strictly confined to #3 and #4. Took it to FMC., for diagnostic fee and a day later they said, symptoms of lash adjusters. I told them I'd pick up my truck.
Got in it, and drove it home and that noise is loud, echoing through the right exhaust. Seems to be running very rich, still no power what so ever and now I pull up in my driveway and instantly get these codes. P0316 (misfire on startup), P0420 Cat efficiency below threshold, and p1000 (due to resetting my computer back to stock before taking it to FMC) I thought about doing the job myself, but working 120 hours a week I don't see how, and I'll need to buy the valve spring compressor and timing chain wedge (260.00 set) So I started calling around to mechanics, 10 to be exact, none of which, will even look at the truck.
I have that wonderful ticking noise... Here is some info on my truck: Its 133k, 5.3L 3V. I put new plugs in it and changed the oil (YES the right filter and oil).
Okay, so I'm trying to make sure my diagnosis is what I think it is before I start digging into the motor and get angry because I ordered the wrong parts.
Preface: I got the truck from a deal auction. I was told it ran great, well when I got it, it had this tick. It comes and goes as it pleases (not dependent on the weather or RPMS. The noise is consistent, it gets faster as RPMs rise, it doesn't go away after 1,200 rpms. This lead me to eliminate cam phasers as the issue.
Now here is something odd: After starting up the truck, initially it will be pretty quick and have great throttle response, but after that it will start act like someone put on the parking brake. It can barely accelerate and when you put it to the floor it gets worse. It seems to accelerate best at half throttle. The second part is the truck will shift, dropping the rpms incredibly low and the tick gets louder and more spaced out (leading me to think it's rpm dependent).
All of the noise seems to be localized around the passenger size head area. If I unplug the VCT solenoid the ticking doesn't seem to be as loud if I drive it the next day, and it doesn't do the shift into lower rpms and accelerates wonderfully. Leading me to think it's either the timing is off and when the phasers kick on it goes way out of time and causes it to go into limp mode...or the VCT solenoid is bad?
The ticking never fully goes away, but it has it's quiet days and LOUD days...
My alarm started going off by itself and my truck would not start so we unhooked the horn but the alarm was still trying to go off making a ticking noise when the horn should have been honking. so we also unhooked the alarm. And it started right up. I've been driving it with those things off with no problem. But today it wouldn't start again and its making a ticking noise like the horn is trying to honk.
View 6 RepliesI've been trying to find the source of this ticking/rattling noise could it be my cat converters or maybe torque converter.
YouTube...
My 2004 F-150 5.4 has a rattling noise coming from the passenger side of the engine when at operating temperature. The cam phasers and all related parts have been replaced. The reason I was prompted to change the phasers, chains, guides and tensioners was due to the engine stopping on me as I returned home from an errand. The engine had already shown signs of needing the phasers replaced.
The engine runs very smooth while warming up. Vehicle lacks power and has a rough idle after warm. Took the truck to a local mechanic, in the process of making a diagnosis, he performed a compression test. Cylinder 3 psi was much lower than the other 7 cylinders, the mechanic recommended replacing the engine (possible bent valve).
I have a Haynes manual, have searched youtube and checked this and similar forums, I have yet to find instructions on the removal of the head from the block.
(2004 Ford F-150 5.4 3v)....
2005 F150 Lariat package with 63,000 miles. Ok... thought I had a cat crawl up in thew engine to stay warm...but alas no cat found. Got off of work and headed home, clicking/rattling noise from the front passenger side dash, then a whirring noise followed shortly there after by a dull thud (hence the cat scenario). Happened twice on the way home (~15miles) ...
View 1 Replies2008 - <40k miles. Drove the car a good 50 miles yesterday with no problems. today as i was leaving the house, i kept hearing a ticking noise that was progressive in frequency the faster i drove it. i only made it to the end of my street, went back home to drive off in my gas guzzler for my 50mile round trip today.
View 2 RepliesI drive a 2000 Celica GT 5 speed. I am having an issue with my 1ZZ-FE.
I am hearing a ticking/rattling noise from my engine around 2k-3k RPMS. Anything before or after that, the noise dies down. I could hear it from the interior of the car as well. I at first thought it was valve chatter. Someone said It could be a piston or rod. What parts will be needed? Worst case, ill just swap in a 03+ 1ZZ or go with a 2ZZ.
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Experienced a noise that is evident when the side window is down which seems to coming from underneath the car. It is difficult to describe but it is a ticking / light metallic sound. Possibly coming from the exhaust system area. It is particularly annoying at a drive through window where the sound reflects off the building.
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